Cannot start computer WINXP

While trying to get Malware off my computer I now cannot boot up.

I was told to come here for help. See current thread in malware
http://forums.majorgeeks.com/showthread.php?p=1599805#post1599805

My computer is a HP Pavilion Slimline s7600n running WIN XP sp3

While finishing up Malware removal my computer started having problems starting and it would take a few tries before it would boot up and this was after pulling power cord and then plugging back in. The last couple of times I booted to Safe Mode and it was fine but the last time I booted to Normal mode computer operated OK but when I came back to it several hours later the screen was black as if the monitor powered down or was asleep but it would not come back up, even though power was on, fans on and HD on etc.

The last time I had it up in Safe Mode I changed the boot order to boot from CD first in case I needed to boot from the Operating System CD.

I have tried several times to boot with and without the CD in while pressing F8 and F1 and F12

Any suggestions???

 

Can you tell us exactly what happens when you try to boot?

I read your last thread and it sounds like you are getting nothing on the screen at all. Do the fans come on? Does the monitor show anything such as the HP screen?

If you have been moving your computer around make sure the monitor keyboard and mouse are all firmly connected. You might also want to make sure the video card is firmly in its slot if you have one (that computer came with onboard graphics so tell us if you have added a video card).

 

sach2

The fans come on and the CD light blinks several times (whether the CD is in or not) while the hard drive lights blink only a few times.
The monitor is blank.

I have not moved the unit and have checked cables and they seem to be fine. I tried another keyboard with same results. I have disconnected everything but the keyboard, mouse and monitor. Nothing else is connected to the computer.

This problem of not always starting started to happen when computer was infected with the Malware (see thread posted below)

I almost got it started 3-4 tries ago and the blue hp screen showed with the f1 option etc but the screen just stayed in place (froze) and didn't progress to the next screen, this while the HD lights didn't flicker and only the fans were working. So I unplugged it and tried again but each time after this nothing happens (see above)

 

I don't think this startup problem is related to malware.

Since it works sometimes my first guess would be that the motherboard battery may be going bad. That PC is about 4-5 years old so that is when these batteries tend to go.

You could try starting without the battery to see if there is a difference or replace the battery (which you should do anyway). Most supermarkets or large drugstores carry them now. Unplug the computer. If you look at the diagram your battery is rather hard to see because it is in a sideways slot but it is a flat coin-shaped watch-type battery that should pull straight up out of the slot. Some motherboards will start without the battery so you could try that to see if there is a change in symptoms. Then put it back in [pay attention to which way it goes when pulling it out] and put back in and try again (sometimes a few seconds removed gives enough to get a bit more life out of a battery).

Other things you could try is to make sure your RAM modules are firmly seated. You could also try unplugging the HD and the CDROM and see if you get further than the HP screen and an error about no boot devices or no Operating System.

 

Can you get into the BIOS? I'm trying to decide what hardware problem you have. (hard drive, power supply, cable to hd from motherboard)

Are you able to boot from a CD?

 

I replaced the battery and tried to boot but no success.

All I get on the monitor is "No Signal"

I disconnected the HD and CD and tried to boot - no success, just "No Signal" on the monitor.

I've tried to boot from CD but no success.

I cannot boot at all, can't boot to Safe Mode etc

My wife's computer is same exact model and is working fine, should I try swapping hard drives to see if the the HD?

 

One note I forgot to add to my previous post...

During start-up the Caps Lock and Number Lock lights do NOT light on the keyboard, which I would guess means that any F1 etc keys I press during start-up are not getting to the computer.

I tested the keyboard on another computer and it is working fine.

Please include above with previous post

 

plodr
how can I determine if it is the power supply?

It seems nothing plugged into the back panel is getting any power (or connection) as the keyboard lights do not light up on start-up

I plugged in a couple USB devices in the back panel near the Video plug and keyboard etc that usually have LED's light up on start-up and they do not light up. So would this mean it's the power supply OR the motherboard???

sach2
What are your thought on this?

I need this computer for work and it's really killing me having it down :-(

 

Sorry, I have been quite busy the last few days.

First, removing your wife's HD and putting your HD in her identical machine should run XP just as if it were in your machine if you need to access something on your HD. (This startup problem is happening before the HD is accessed so the HD is not the problem)

****
It is sounding like a PSU problem but I can't think of anyway of testing the PSU other than swapping a working one for yours. (Your wife's should work but before considering a replacement be aware that some HP computers use a smaller dimensioned PSU so that has to be taken into account)

A couple of things to try would be to rule out bad memory. I'm not sure HP boards have beep codes but try starting your machine with no HD and no CDROM connected with all the RAM modules removed. There should be a long beep. (This would tell us if the motherboard is working)
Even if no long beep try starting with one just one RAM module installed in the innermost slot. If no go, then try again with a different RAM module in that slot.

Is still no go, then try unplugging the computer and clearing CMOS according to the motherboard instructions (scroll down). Plug back in and see if you get the HP screen.

 

sach2

1) OK I disconnected the CD, HD and removed memory.
When I started it up I got two beeps that would repeat several times then start to fade.

With the CD & HD still disconnected I installed one memory module on innermost slot and when started up I got the same two beeps.
I turn computer off and removed the first memory module and replaced it with the 2nd one and start-up computer.
But this time I didn't get any beeps with this memory module.

So does this mean the mother board is OK and one of the memory modules is bad?

2) I cleared the CMOS as per instructed with power off. And started up again but still no HP screen.

 

Hmm, if the one memory module was the whole problem then you should have gotten an HP screen. I'm not certain what is going on here.

Verify (test again just to make sure it was firmly seated) that with no RAM and then with the one module you get the same two beeps. I think this would indicate that that module is bad since the board is acting the same as if there was no memory installed.

Now try again with the other module installed you get no beeps but still nothing on the screen? Try this non-beeping module in the second slot and see if you get any response.

While you are in the case just give every connection you see a firm push to rule out a loose connection.

 

I am on my way out the door. Also verify that there is no difference in keyboard lights when using the non-beeping module of RAM.

It is looking like a PSU problem to me. I can't think of anything else to try unless you can rule out a bad PSU.

 

sach2

You were right. I tried both memory modules again and NO BEEPS. So it must not have been sitting correctly.

Still no keyboard lights.

I am going to bite-the-bullet today and buy a new Power Supply. About $92.00

Anything special I need to know before installing being I cleared the CMOS???

Just curious...when you had me clear the CMOS with the power unplugged *how does that work? Does it get current from the mother board battery?

 

Greetings, Electro-User.

Just a quick explanation: all 'clearing the CMOS' does is revert the EEPROM (the actual integrated circuit that contains the base BIOS instructions) to factory defaults. After such reversion and after a boot, the software reacquires any hardware info and manual changes.

That EEPROM must have constant power to save and maintain any changes from default - the power source is the battery, which supplies a small 'trickle' charge even when main power is off.

Sorry for the interruption - carry on. :major

 

I'll be honest I have never figured out exactly how clearing CMOS works. It seems that some instructions say to cut all power, both AC and removing battery, and some say just remove AC. I can't see how moving a jumper with absolutely no current (AC and battery removed) could make any difference? How would the board know that a circuit was interrupted if there was no current? So I use the instructions where you disconnect AC and leave the battery installed.

Clearing CMOS just forces the machine to load the original BIOS instructions off the READ_ONLY_MEMORY chip thus setting things back to defaults. Under normal circumstances the battery allows the machine to keep track of changes like date/time, boot order, and connected devices such as hard drive and CDROMs. Going back to defaults makes it look again for devices and make a new list to save. Not a big deal. Sometimes the version kept in memory by the battery can get corrupted so it doesn't hurt to force the machine to start over and look again to make a fresh list. EDIT: Caliban just explained this part.

$92.00 seems a bit high, which power supply are you getting? I just want to make sure that it fits the case. (there is always the possibility that the onboard video has gone bad but PSU seems more likely) Caliban, if you have any opinion, please weigh in.

 

Replacing the power supply is a good next step, and I agree: that's too much $ for this machine. Open the panel and get a good look at the size and footprint of the current PSU, and get a replacement in the $40-50 range.

The only thing different that jumps at me is the USB anomaly - make sure no unnecessary USB devices are connected, and while in BIOS you might toggle any 'Legacy USB' settings. (Probably nothing to do with it - just grasping).

One more crazy question, then I've got to take an IRL break: have you made sure your keyboard and mouse jacks are plugged into the correct locations?

 

The lowest price I found online was $61.00 plus $29.95 for 2 day ship.
https://www.sparepartswarehouse.com...essid=2tbtds45u5ub5p55qzpjkr55&cname=51882755

HP - 5188-2755 - Factory Direct
Power Supply : Power supply (Bryce) - 108-watt, 100-127V, 3A (50-60Hz), 200-240V, 2A (50-60Hz
( this part will be invoiced as "SHP51882755@" – guaranteed 100% compatible with 51882755 )

The one I can pick up locally was $78.00 plus CA 9.95 tax and $5 handling

If you have a better source, please advise as money is tight but I need it right away to go back to work.

What do you means by "The only thing different that jumps at me is the USB anomaly - make sure no unnecessary USB devices are connected, and while in BIOS you might toggle any 'Legacy USB' settings. (Probably nothing to do with it - just grasping)."

and YES I made sure the keyborad and mouse were connected correctly. I even swapped keyboard with a another computer to check if key borad was faulty and it wasn't

How do I test the video card?

 

Hold on for a few minutes 108 watts is too small for a replacement power supply. That doesn't seem possible for a 2006 computer.

Unfortunately, I can't see how video can be ruled out until we know the power supply is working. The symptom of getting the HP screen occasionally and having it halt there makes it much more likely a power problem than a video problem. You have pretty much ruled out RAM and a corrupt CMOS and with the keyboard not lighting up properly it appears that POST is not completing. Also, the intermittent problems of starting up would also fit a failing power supply. If it was a video problem you shouldn't get video occasionally and the keyboard and everything else should light up and work normally. The only symptom would be a blank screen.

 

Looks like the Slimline takes the small form factor power supply - a quick look through the Google ads shows 200-250-300w models. You may be right about the price, though - those things are rather expensive.

The USB line was just to make sure that you don't have some discrete USB device(s) connected (printer, speakers, etc.) that may be interfering with the boot process.

 

sach2
Caliban

I pulled out the PSU and it says right on it 108 watts.

I have read posts from others that getting a higher watt PSU would be a good upgrade but for this Slimline it's a bit expensive.

Having a PSU with only 108 watts is probably why I am having to replace this ;-)

 

Sorry, I am in and out today. What are the dimensions of the original supply?
It is more difficult than I thought to find a larger wattage replacement but I would think 200 watts would be a minimum. I see this one that has the same dimensions as the 108watt one but that is all I have found in the two minutes I have been able to give this. It is rather confusing because of the rarity of the dimensions needed for to fit that case.

I won't be able to look around for another hour or so but I saw this one that mentions a small 24pin connector (I never heard of this) so that is why I want to look around a bit to see if that is really true. Same product also available at Amazon.

I know a couple of the guys in hardware routinely replace HP power supplies it might be worth a quick post over there. I will get back to this in an hour or so.

 

I have so many browser windows open I can't make sense of what I am finding.

You need the small dimensions of W 3.2" H 1.7" and D 6.0" with the small ATX connector. So there really is not much choice.

I see the FSP200-50PLA2-SL http://www.google.com/products/cata...a=X&ei=5v14Tf3jBIbg0gGImITQAwved=0CFMQ8wIwAA# or slightly cheaper here but not sure where these vendors are.

This one not sure what brand it is but the description is correct.

And this one.

If you can wait to have one shipped I think it is worth going to the 200w from the 108w. You can probably get by fine with a new 108w considering your original lasted 5 years if you want to shop locally.

 

This one looks correct as well and has free shipping. The table at the bottom clarifies that it is a mini-ATX connector.

 

I apologize but I have given you a wrong model. Those links for FSP200-50PLA2-SL all say it is compatible with your model s7600n but I don't see any SATA connectors. Your power supply has at least one SATA connector.

 

sach2
plodr

Bought and replaced the Power Supply Unit with a new OEM one 5188-2755

I fired it up and still have the same problem. :-(

I swapped in the working memory modules and Hard Drive from my wife's computer (same exact model) and still the same symptoms.

Still no lights on the keyboard or on USB thumb drives when plugged in - so I would assume there is no signal going to the keyboard, USB or monitor

 

Double check the clearing the CMOS. The computer is unplugged and you move the jumper and return it to pins 2 and 3. The picture on the HP site is a little confusing in that it should end up like picture one.

 

sach2

Clearing CMOS - as I understand it photo 1 is the existing configuration with the bottom pin exposed on each.
With power unplugged I remove ONLY the left one and place it down exposing the top left pin - wait 5 seconds then pull it off and move it back to the top to it's original position.

Just making sure...

OK I Cleared the CMOS as above and still no change

 

Try it with a different keyboard and a different mouse (are you using PS/2 keyboard mouse?). There was one BIOS update that addressed "System Hangs when no PS/2 device installed". Make sure the pins are not bent on your keyboard mouse connectors and they go to the correct ports.

There is always the possibility that it is a bad motherboard, CPU or totally corrupt BIOS but I find it odd that the board recognizes no RAM but doesn't get past the keyboard check.

 

sach2

I tried a different keyboard and mouse and checked the pins.

If it is a corrupt BIOS how would I correct that being the keyboard is not working? ( keyboard lights do not light up)

 

Sach2

You wrote:

Being that after pulling both memory modules, that on start-up the computer repeated 2 beeps, would that possibly mean the Mother board is OK and maybe its the CPU or the NVIDIA video chip?

I believe this model doesn't have a separate video card but has it bult into the mother board???

What could be stopping the keyboard check?

 

Hi, I've never had a motherboard or CPU go bad so I don't know the symptoms from experience. The Nvidia chip could be bad but if that were the case I believe everything else would sound/act normal--keyboard would flash then light up the Num lock button, CDROM and HD would work. Windows would load up only you couldn't see it but you could watch the HD access light activity.

That you get error beeps with no memory means the MB is not completely dead. You don't have power to USB or keyboard. That could be a short on the MB.

All I an suggest is visually inspecting your MB comparing it to your wife's MB. Does anything stand out as different (bulging capacitor, different/missing connection)?

There is always the possibility that you got a bum power supply. If you lay the replacement or the original power supply on top of your wife's PC and make the connections does here PC boot up?

The keyboard check is just that BIOS looks for a keyboard almost immediately. Many BIOS will just quit with an error if it doesn't find a keyboard. That you don't get a keyboard error and yet the keyboard doesn't light up which should cause an error says to me that POST is not getting very far or not running at all.

You can't do anything about a corrupt BIOS if you can't boot. Clearing/resetting CMOS reloads BIOS off the BIOS chip which fixes most corruption. For clearing CMOS not to have worked your BIOS chip itself would have to be corrupted which is unlikely without a power surge or something.

The keyboard check is just that BIOS looks for a keyboard almost immediately. Many BIOS will just quit with an error if it doesn't find a keyboard. That you don't get a keyboard error and yet the keyboard doesn't light up which should cause an error says to me that POST is not getting very far or not running at all.

**
I will look around a bit more but have found few threads about your specific motherboard.

 

sach2

Could it be the CPU(s)?

 

Yes, it could be the CPU. I think it may be worth making a thread in hardware since some hardware guys may not look at a thread with XP in the title. They might be able to give further troubleshooting.

To POST you need a motherboard, power, CPU, BIOS chip and RAM. So something there is not working. You've tried two PSUs and two sets of RAM so they are not the cause. You've reset CMOS and it is unlikely the BIOS chip is actually bad. That leaves bad circuitry on motherboard or CPU.

If it were me being stubborn I would try booting without the battery to see if there is any change as a bad battery (even though replaced could possibly cause problems). I would also disconnect as many cables from the motherboard as possible(marking down what goes where). You basically just want power going in to the motherboard and a monitor and keyboard connected taking power out. A bad cable could cause problems. That is all I can really suggest. A hardware thread might be more informative.

 

sach2

OK I will put a thread in hardware and try your suggestions.
One thing I may have forgotten to post in this thread was back when I first starting having trouble booting-up while I was in the Malware thread and fixing/removing Malware, I changed the bot order to first boot from CD in case it couldn't boot normally. I was able to get the computer to boot 2 times after that before the boot problem became worse and they sent me over here. Could changing the boot order create any problems I am having now?

Please explain what it means "to POST"

 

Changing the boot order makes no difference and could not of caused your problems. The boot order is held in memory and lasts only as long as power (battery or electric is supplied to the machine). When all power is removed then the next time the machine starts up, it sees it doesn't have the information in memory and just reads the default values off the BIOS chip.

POST just means executing the instructions found in BIOS. When you start your computer it POSTs meaning looks around and identifies the attached hardware, makes a list and passes that information over to whichever OS you are running.

Here is a basic list of the order that your Award BIOS goes through the steps before passing the information to the OS. (There are several versions but the top one will give you the basic idea.)

 

sach2

only one Cap looks slightly swollen


Please see photo.

Item is the larger cap on the bottom right corner

 

Attached is the photo as per previous post

 

Hi, some will say any swelling on a cap can cause a major problem but my gut still says this is a power problem. If you look at that post link and go to versions after 4.2 (I can't find dates when version 4.2 was released but my guess is it was before your computer. I don't know how to match it up with the HP version number of your BIOS which is 3.x but I think yours is still after 4.2) Then it gets to the keyboard initialization fairly soon. Before Video or much else. So since your keyboard doesn't flash POST really isn't getting very far. This could mean CPU but power just seems so much more likely.

For power supplies, New does not count as Known Working. I still think verifying that your wife's computer will boot with one of the two other power supplies is worth checking. Or checking that yours won't boot with her power supply. (This may be me being stubborn but power just seems so likely)

 

sach2
I pulled the PSU out of my computer on Friday and installed in my wife's computer and her computer has been working fine since. So it wasn't the PSU.

I installed her known working PSU in my computer Friday. The new PSU has been put aside for now.

 

I'm sorry, but this is getting to be a pretty long thread and I must admit I've not read every word of it. But one thing sticks in my mind from my reading "I replaced the battery".
There is a special technique to doing that on a PC that won't even boot to the BIOS screen.
First you remove all power from the system.
Then you remove the CMOS battery, a CR-2032 (if the battery is over three years old, go buy a new one.
Then after leaving the battery out of at least 20 to 30 minutes, install the new battery, restore line power to the system and boot up. The bios message should come up on the screen as to which key to press to get into the bios setup screen.
In the bios, reset the time and date. At this point don't bother making any other settings. See if the computer will now boot up.
I was once given an HP computer that was for all intents and purposes DEAD as a door-nail. I took out the CMOS battery and checked it..... it was down to like, 2 volts.
If that battery ever checks out, with a digital meter, at less than 3 volts, it should be changed ASAP. Anyway, I bought a new battery for the HP, installed it and the little computer came right up and ran great. I still have that machine around here somewhere.

In the Thin-Line computers the Power Supply is exceptionally SMALL (one reason why I would NEVER buy one.) Failure of those little psu's is quite common. The fact that it's lasted 3-4 years is amazing.

Good Luck
Shadow :cool

 

Hi, I see I was just being stubborn on the PSU; I'm glad you swapped them to try.

I don't want to interfere with your new thread; you'll get some fresh eyes over there. One quick thing I would test before checking the CPU is unplug both front USB ports and Audio from the motherboard just to see if any change. A simple test and rules out a short with them since they have separate power connections. So on the MB diagram F_USB1 and F_USB2 and AUDIO_1 just unplug them and see if it POSTS any differently.

 

sach2

I unplugged them and started up but still no change.

 

Ok, it was worth a shot. I've seen threads where a malfunctioning front USB port caused all USB ports not to work. Just wanted to make sure that the front ports weren't effecting the back of the board. Someone else with your board said they had jarred the audio connector while working in the PC and it halted POST so I thought that was worth a look as well.