Black screen after overclocking, help..please.

Computer specs:
2gb DDR2 RAM.
ASUS P5NSLI LGA 775 NVIDIA nForce 570 SLI Intel Edition ATX Intel Motherboard
Intel Pentium D 805 Processor - 2.66 GHz
nVidia GeForce 7300 LE (Replacing it tomorrow with an ATI HD Radeon 4830)
350W Power Supply (also replacing tomorrow with a 485W PSU)

If there's anymore info you need, ask. I'm not very sure what I should put.

So anyways, earlier I decided to overclock my processor, I have done it in the past successfully thanks to ASUS' automatic overclocking. But today I'm pretty sure I messed something up. So here's how it went. After I changed a few settings, the system rebooted, and usually if it's too high, it'll take about 5 - 10 seconds to get to the BIOS (or I can just restart again, and it'll resume back to the old config) and I can change it if I need to. But this time when it restarted, it just went to a black screen, and stayed there. So I got worried and googled the problems.

A lot people have had this issue too, but I'm fearing that I may have fried my motherboard or something. I've tried taking out the battery for an hour, and clearing the RTC (but I'm not sure if I did it right)
http://c1.neweggimages.com/NeweggImage/productimage/13-131-032-04.jpg
On the left side, where the blue jumpers are, it says "CLRTC" and it says to Clear the RTC, move the pin to 2 - 3, which I figure means just to move the pin one over to the right.

So I tried that, nothing. I'm getting really worried, I've tried completely turning it off, unplugging the PSU, pushing the power button a few times (not sure if this all has to be done in a specific order)
And then moving the pin to what I think is 2 -3, then removing the CMOS battery.

I STILL get a black screen, everything turns on fine though, but it's just a black screen, today I just received a brand new LCD Monitor, and so I know it's not a monitor problem.

Is there anything I can do..? I really hope it's not fried, especially since tomorrow I'm receiving the new video card and PSU. Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you a lot.

 

I am not familiar with the RTC term. I have always heard the term CMOS. Generally, to clear the CMOS, you unplug the power cord, move the CMOS jumper from pins 1 and 2 to pins 2 and 3. Wait a little bit, move the jumper back to pins 1 and 2. Reboot, and you should be at factory defaults.

If you just have a blank screen, I suspect you have some hardware that has failed.

 

Hi Fred,

RTC= Real Time Clock

My Thinkpad laptop refers to it that way.

 

Ah this is such a bummer. I got my new video card and power supply just a bit ago, got it all hooked up, just HOPING that it'd work. Still a black screen. I -really- hope the processor or motherboard aren't fried. Are there any signs I could look for if they are?

The light on my motherboard still goes on, and so do the lights for everything else inside of it. HSF still gets a little warm. I'm just hoping that I'm not resetting it right or something. I really don't want to have to buy another Processor/Mobo right now, since I don't have the money.

 

Make sure your CMOS or RTC jumper is in the normal position.

Do you get any post beeps? And did you get one beep shortly after you started the machine back when it was working? POST error beeps can be a big help.

Also, just to be sure, double check all the cables are plugged in (extra power cable needed for the new video card?).

 

Hmm. I'm not sure if I heard beeps or not. I'm trying to think if it was quiet when I would start it up..

Also, I set the jumper back to normal after leaving it on reset for about 6 hours while I was asleep, and still nothing. I'm just wondering if I'm missing a step.

EDIT: I do hear sounds though, sounds like it's coming from my hard drive though.
My motherboad has an LED light on it that's bright green when I plug the power in, so I wonder if that means it's still okay, and if it still just really needs a CMOS reset..

 

Hi,

RTC (Real Time Clock) does live with the BIOS (Basic IN Out System). All is implemented with CMOS (Complimentary Metal Oxide technology) but, has very little to do with what the BIOS is all about. It is not the same as BIOS. Hope this helps to clear up some of the misunderstanding.

Jim

 

Well, I tried stripping down the entire system, just down to the Motherboard and power supply, I hear no beeps. Does that indicate a dead motherboard? If so, now I know what I need to replace. Also, just a moment ago it would turn on, but then I went and unplugged all of unnecessary cables and just left the Power supply plug, and now it just starts up and shuts off immediately. I just want to make sure that it's the motherboard before I go out and buy one. Thanks.

 

Do you have or can you borrow a PSU to test it? An inexpensive speaker can usually be hooked up the the mobo for post beep codes.

 

Well actually, I'm using a new PSU I got two days ago. And I fixed the auto-shut down it was doing. But I'll try the speakers.

 

I fixed it, a family friend came over, and he had a spare Pentium D. 2.00 GHz, so he gave it to me, I tried it out, started up perfect. So I guess my old processor is toasted, but, I got another Pentium D in it's place, albeit lower GHz, but it runs a lot cooler anyways.

Thanks for your help though, all of you. Really. Thanks.

Take care.

 

Glad you got it fixed! I have not seen very many CPU's go bad. but it can happen! :cry

 

It really surprised me too. It died so suddenly. Just one overclocking mistake and it got zapped that quickly, but..I guess when you mess with electronics like that, anything can happen.

 

Number one rule in overclocking: Don't let the magic smoke out of your components! :-D

 

I had black screen issues when I got my new CPU (AMD Phenom 9750 2.4GHZ X4), but it turned out it was my Graphics card (ATI Sappire Radeon HD 4870 1GB GDDR5).

The problem was my power supply, you see I got the GPU first and it was fine but it was being bottle necked by my old CPU (AMD Athlon 64 x2 6000+ 3.0GHz), so I got the new one and my PSU couldn't supply them properly. I used to have a COLOURSit 600W (crappy brand) PSU, so I got myself a better name (reconmended here actually & on the ATI website), Coolermaster extreme power Duo 650W. I suggest you get a better PSU 500W maybe, even overkill is better than undersupplying your PC. A good brand may cost but they perform better & last far longer.

My GPU used to cut out after half an hour playing GTA IV but now I have no problems

A good powerful PSU can last a L-O-N-G time :-D

:major2-Bit-Geek:major