Computer kept resetting, acrid smell, now won't boot windows

My computer started resetting itself about 2-5 min. after loading windows. Each time it reset I'd hear a clicking sound and there was an acrid smell. This happened several more times and then it would boot, ask if I wanted to boot in safe mode, etc. then no matter what I picked it would just reset again. I tried Booting from Windows CD but it would try to load it then reset. I don't believe there is an acrid smell anymore. Now I'm afraid something is permanently damaged. My first thought was the power supply, which would be an easy replacement. Is it possible it is the motherboard, or the CPU? Is replacing the power supply the best first try? Thanks in advance for any help!

 

You said you smelled a Acid smell might be the battery check the battery to see if it Exploded.

 

New development, I took a closer look at the motherboard and found these three (I honestly don't know what they are called, capacitors?) that have sort of a bubble to them, and are also flaky/burned. I'm going to assume this is the root of the problem. Good news is that it has a 3-year warranty that hasn't expired yet!

 

It is a little hard to discern from the picture, but if you see what looks like dried foam leaking from the tops, bottoms, or seams of these devices, then they likely are leaky capacitors. That said, all those silver can devices are capacitors too and they look like good solid type (that's "solid" - as opposed to using a "liquid" electrolytic capacitor - and not to be confused with "solid-state" which has a totally different meaning). And the common use of solid caps today is due to a problem with leaky electrolytics years ago. You just don't see many leaky caps problems these days.

My point is, your board should not be having leaky capacitor issues.

As for the smell, if those caps recently overheated then the smell could certainly have come from them. But my first concern there is still power. I would have that power supply tested. Then RMA that board before the warranty runs out.

 

I'm sending the board back today, hopefully will have the replacement in a couple weeks. Where would I get the power supply tested?

 

Here's my little (rolleyes) canned text on testing PSUs:

To properly and conclusively test a power supply unit (PSU), it must be tested under various realistic "loads" then analyzed for excessive ripple and other anomalies. This is done by a qualified technician using an oscilloscope or power analyzer - sophisticated (and expensive) electronic test equipment requiring special training to operate, and a basic knowledge of electronics theory to understand the results. Therefore, conclusively testing a power supply is done in properly equipped electronic repair facilities.

Fortunately, there are other options that are almost as good. I keep a PSU Tester in my tool bag when I am "in the field" and don't have a good spare power supply to swap in. While not a certain test, they are better than nothing. The advantage of this model is that it has an LCD readout of the voltage. With an actual voltage readout, you have a better chance of detecting a "failing" PSU, or one barely within specified ATX Form Factor Standard tolerances. Lesser models use LEDs to indicate the voltage is just within some "range". These are less informative, considerably cheaper, but still useful for detecting PSUs that have already "failed". Newegg has several testers to choose from. All these testers contain a "dummy load" to fool the PSU into thinking it is connected to a motherboard, and therefore allows the PSU to power on, if able, without being attached to a motherboard - great for testing fans, but again, it is not a true load or suitable for conclusive testing.

Note the required voltage tolerance ranges:

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Swapping in a known good supply is a tried and true method of troubleshooting used for years, even by pros. If you have access to a suitably sized, spare power supply, carefully remove the suspect supply and replace it with the known good one, and see if the problem goes away.

I do not recommend using a multimeter to test power supplies. To do it properly, that is, under a realistic load, the voltages on all the pins must be measured while the PSU is attached to the motherboard and the computer powered on. This requires poking (with some considerable force) two hard and sharp, highly conductive meter probes into the main power connector, deep in the heart of the computer. One tiny slip can destroy the motherboard, and everything plugged into it. It is not worth the risk considering most multimeters, like plug-in testers, do not measure, or reveal any unwanted and potentially disruptive AC components to the DC voltages.

Note the ATX Form Factor standard does not "require" specific color coding for power supply connector wiring. It has recommendations but manufacturers often do not follow them. Sadly, many testing guides or tutorials will refer to wire color only and that can lead to improper testing.

The voltages can be checked in the BIOS Setup Menus of most motherboards but they do not reveal ripple or other anomalies either. And of course, booting into the BIOS Setup Menu requires a working PSU.

As always, before working in the interior of the computer case, take necessary ESD precautions to ensure static buildup in your body does not discharge through and destroy any sensitive devices. Unplug from the wall and touch bare metal of the case before reaching in. And remember, anything that plugs into the wall can kill. Do not open the power supply's case unless you are a qualified electronics technician. There are NO user-serviceable parts inside a power supply. If you do not have a tester or a suitable spare to swap in, take the PSU to a qualified technician for testing.

For more information on testing PSUs, see this excellent article by Gabriel Torres, Why 99% of Power Supply Reviews are Wrong.​

 

Part of the CPU's VRM's voltage regulator modules "EDIT the chips are MOSFETS" they regulate the voltage to your cpu.

Its troubling that three failed at exactly same time I would definitely concur with Digerati and fully test the power supply before you burn out another motherboard.

Note that they are cooled by the CPU HSF,if you use an aftermarket heatsink or a water block they may receive little or no cooling so troubleshoot your cooling solution also.

 

Really glad to see someone else feels the same way as me about after market cooling. People forget that motherboard designers/engineers cluster heat sensitive and heat generating devices around the CPU socket to take advantage of the "expected" air turbulence provided by the "expected" OEM cooler. Aftermarket coolers, while perhaps quality made, are still a "universal" design, and potentially a compromising design in order to fit even more boards/CPUs.

Fortunately, both AMD and Intel provide excellent coolers with their CPUs - fully capable of providing sufficient air, even with moderate overclocking (assuming a properly ventilated case). Plus they are warranted for 3 years while most aftermarket coolers are for 1. And finally, you don't void the warranty by using the OEM cooler - while using an aftermarket cooler on an AMD or Intel CPU that came packaged with an OEM cooler, does.