CPU and cooler

Discussion in 'Hardware' started by WhiteQueen, Aug 4, 2015.

  1. WhiteQueen

    WhiteQueen Private E-2

    Hi,
    thinking of getting a cooler for my CPU but have a couple of questions.
    1. My Mainboard is fm2+ and my cpu is fm2 (no plus), does the fan have to them be fm2 or fm2+?
    2. How do I now what size is correct since I can't find the dimensions for the stock cooler which came with it?
    3. TDP should be high is that correct? And is there any correlation on that no. with the Mainboard? If so, how do I know what the max is what my mainboard can handle?
    4. Fan or Water cooler? which is better?
    5. Is the stock cooler any good?

    Probably need info on what I use my pc for, well surfing the internet, watching vids/movies and listening to music. Do play games but the onboard grafics are enough for the small games I play.

    Opening this thread because my cpu was overheating that it actually broke. Don't know why it was overheating, it was only 10 months old. It was very warm here at the time. Or maybe the stock cooler was not good enough. Or it was a mixture of a few things.

    For 10 months it was working fine, nothing overheating so the temp of everything was in normal range. Normal range for my cpu is in the 70s, but it was then in the 80s most of the time and sometimes it went over 110 degrees.
     
  2. Eldon

    Eldon Major Geek Extraordinaire

    Here are some guidelines based on what I could find.

    1. If the motherboard is FM2+ then either FM2+ or FM2 will work. Go with FM2+.
    2. While the mounting holes are the same for FM2+ and FM2, you need a fan size that fits the CPU.
    3. Idealy, the fan should be able to cope with a higher TDP than that of the CPU.
    4. Fan is good enough for what you use your PC. Personally, I wouldn't trust any liquid cooling, unless you buy the best available.
    5. The stock cooler should always be adequate, but it wont be the best.

    Sources:
    http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-2119130/fm2-fm2.html

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_design_power

    Lastly, monitor the temperatures. If they go to high, check Task Manager for what is hogging the CPU.
     
  3. Digerati

    Digerati Major Geek Extraordinaire

    Your OEM cooler should be plenty good for the tasks you are doing.

    What does that mean? The weather? Is your computer room air conditioned? If not, then that could be your problem and you only solution on hot days may be to not use your computer until the cool nights or early mornings.

    Understand it is your case's responsibility to provide a sufficient supply of cool air flowing through you case. And your CPU fan need only toss the CPU's heat up into that flow. This assumes the cured bond of the TIM (thermal interface material) is not broken, the heatsink fan assembly is properly mounted, and the fan is spinning properly.

    The only time you really "need" an aftermarket cooler is with extreme overclocking or when "silent running" for a home theater PC is needed.

    You need to make sure your case is clean of heat trapping dust.

    Inspect your case and see if it supports additional fans - preferably another rear exhaust fan.
     
  4. WhiteQueen

    WhiteQueen Private E-2

    So it doesn't matter really what socket the fan is. (not totally i mean, but either fm2 or fm2+)
    I'm just worried since the cpu is fm2, and if i get a fan thats fm2+ that it might not work?!

    Aren't the heat sink side of the fans all the same size? where the paste goes I mean. I would of thought that side would all be the same!? By size I meant the whole thing, coz I've read that if its to big it would block the 1. ram slot, thats way I asked how do i know what size to get... The ram slots are right next to the cpu thing...

    Well, if I understand this then my cpu would break at some point anyway, because the max tdp for my cpu is 100 watts and the stock cooler is either 90 or 95 watts only.... or am i wrong thinking that?
     
  5. WhiteQueen

    WhiteQueen Private E-2

    Not air conditioned, and it was like 40 degrees for a few weeks, that is what i meant with hot here!
    Well thanks for the solution, but that wouldn't work, I have to get up early in the morning for work and therefor I go to bed early, so that option isn't viable. I've bought a fan for the room maybe that'll help.

    Well, the case is doing it's job. Everything else is normal. Mainboard, ram and harddisks are all not overheating and the fan speeds are also not going into overdrive. The only problem was the cpu.
    For 10 months it worked fine, so unless the paste decided to break it should of still been ok.

    Everything is clean, i have compressed air which i spray regulary.
    In my whole system i already have 4 fans, 1 in the front, 1 in the back, 1 from the psu and the 1 on the cpu.
     
  6. Digerati

    Digerati Major Geek Extraordinaire

    Well, TIM itself does not break or need regular replacing, and the bond will not "break" unless the computer was bounced off the floor or the heatsink was twisted or the heatsink mounting mechanism was not properly fastened. So that should not be it.

    It should not "break". If the CPU gets too hot, it should throttle down in speed or simply shutdown before it gets to the point of damage.

    Are your fans set for front to back, bottom to top air flow? That is, your front and bottom fans should be drawing cool air in and your rear and top fans exhausting heated air out.

    Also, is your computer on or near the floor where the cooler air will be?
     
  7. WhiteQueen

    WhiteQueen Private E-2

    Well, my pc was not dropped on the floor or anything like that. Nothing in the computer was touched or moved or wobbled.. The mechanism was fastened, that was the only thing that was touched. the lever thingy on the fan was down.

    Well the only thing was in speccy the temp was then always too high and therefor the fan went into overdrive, one could definetly here it working BUT the other temps were not effected, they were all normal.

    Well my father set that stuff up, but the front one sucks in air (put a little feather and it stayed in place) and the front two pushed air out (used same feather for othes tests too) so everything works as it should. only have the one in front.

    no, my pc is because of room issues and also my feet tend to kick things, on the desk.

    Well heard from the shop, I'm getting a new cpu. Now I just really need help with the fan issue. Because I really don't want the cpu to overheat again. But everyone (mostly) say the stock cooler should be fine.. I just don know what to do. Should i use the stock cooler or get a better one?
     
  8. Eldon

    Eldon Major Geek Extraordinaire

  9. Digerati

    Digerati Major Geek Extraordinaire

    I assume you meant to say the "rear" two pushed air out.
     
  10. WhiteQueen

    WhiteQueen Private E-2

    yeah, sry meant the rear two pushes air out. That's what one gets when one doesnt read what one has written....
     
  11. Digerati

    Digerati Major Geek Extraordinaire

    Well, it was pretty obvious what you meant, but I just wanted to make sure.

    It is funny how one small word can change the entire meaning of something. More times than I would like to admit when typing I have left out the word "not" in a sentence. Or rather my fingers leave it out. My brain sees it even after I proof read it! :-o It is bad when a poster asks about a product that I know they need to avoid at all costs and I (or rather my fingers) type, "You must get that part!" :banghead

    The way to prevent that, and most typing/writing mistakes BTW, is to read it out loud. That forces your brain to really read what is there, instead of what it wants there. The problem there is the dog thinks you are talking to him. rolleyes

    Anyway, thanks for clarifying.
     

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