For new build: a goo dplace to get longer IDE 80 conductor cables

I am starting a new low end build with a Biostar board and AMD processor.

The IDE cables packed in with boards and HDs seem shorter than ever. Where to get some over 18" over all?

Any new build tips like how much thermal grease to use? Last Biostar combo deal I got, the cooler with the package had thermal grease pre installed under a plastic cap. The thermal was a brand second to Arctic Silver called Nanotech. I have a syringe of Arctic Silver here because I didn't need it for that Biostar.

Also I prefer desk top (horizontal) cases. Are there any slim, small format ones for cheap either at resale or new? I have some old cases from salvage but they are huge.

 

There are many oversized IDE cables at Newegg: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=ide+cable...

As far as the thermal paste, I've always put enough on to cover the entire surface of the processor, but no more...

And, again, I'd suggest Newegg for the case - I'm sure they'll have one to your liking...

Good luck!

 

IIRC, 18-20" is the maximum specified length for IDE cables, did the spec change for 80-pin?

 

Agreed that the length should be kept to a minimum, and I can't imagine that the spec has changed - but on the other hand, the fact that many outlets stock oversized cables means there must be a demand for them...

 

A good point about the length. I may have to make due.

How do I get messages on here to read last first so the recent reply is at the top?

Other thing is the cpu cooler I got is a Thermaltake TR2-R1 for an AMD cpu. I have customized my fan setups in the past but my question is related to the previous inquiry on thermal grease. The Thermaltake fan has a square (looks like) removable piece of paper on it's bottom-- the part that adheres to the CPU. Before I mess it up, has anyone seen this before and what is it for?

 

User CP > Edit Options > Thread Display Options > Thread Display Mode > set it to Linear Newest First.

 

Well I have a few from purchases to use up. Those are really sensitive to repeated use. And hard to spot breaks on as well. I do disk backup by brute force: attach and unattach the spare drive.

No news on what that sticky patch is below the new heatsink? I have not tried to remove it.

Also I can't edit my spelling mistake in the Subject line.

 

That would be your pre-applied paste I believe. That is a really weird way of doing backups, I have to say.:confused Any specific reason you're doing it this way? Why not just get an external drive for backups. You know all that plugging/unpluging is going to kill your drive, either bust the cable or push a pin in or forget to do it when the machine is off(done that one:-o).

 

Agreed with augiedoggie: there should be a very thin protective film on the 'patch' - remove this, and the adhesive should be then exposed...if you decide to use the Arctic Silver, however, you'll want to completely remove the Thermaltake patch, then apply the Silver...

Don't worry about it - it's a timeout thing...

 

Re: For new build: a good place to get longer IDE 80 conductor cables

Lots of not conventional things on my setup. I don't use a case at all on one node of the home network-- just run everything open.

You're right about plugs getting weak and pins breaking. In thw past I've tried drive trays but I always wind up having to disassemble things-- like say the boot drive fails and I have to get the clone. The clone in a drive tray has it's jumpers set to slave. So it has to come out anyway.

There are fancy drive trays for $80/$90 that have a switch for changing jumpers. That is too much of an expense. Externals boxes attached to USB are said to be slow. So what's the diff with a box with a light on it hanging from rig or a bare drive?

The newer Seagates are low noise. SATA would give a better and less delicate plug but from what I've heard (and don't own any) they are screamers.

I wouldn't want to play with a razor blade around much of anything. But a thin coat with a plastic card before settling the heat sink in place is a good idea.

My chat friend also mentioned applying some thermal grease to heat sink metal leaves. Anyone ever talk about that?


he said:


"also goop on the new sink which i didn't use was applied in bands (intel cpu and cooler). "

 

AFAIK, the thermal paste is for conducting heat from the processor to the heatsink, so common sense would dictate that just enough to cover the processor would be sufficient...

Never heard of applying paste to the fins - can't see where that would help with the heat transfer, and I can imagine it could be detrimental in that the grease could attract dust...

 

Agreed with Caliban. A bead of about the size of a long grain of rice will suffice, if you don't want to use the pre-applied, spread around with a CC or similar. Just make sure to clean the pre-applied off properly, a lint free cloth and %70 isopropyl alcohol do a nice job, make it shiny.

 

Ok. Yeah I may have misunderstood what stripes of thermal grease are for but apparently it's an Intel thing from what my friend said-- something pre applied.

In any case I have never had major problems with overheating at all.

 

I still use the retail heatsink with the pre-applied and my Q6600 is still running like a charm at %100 use 24/7 for over a year. There's nothing wrong with the pre-applied in my book unless one overclocks and wants to shave that last degree off. Besides, one voids the CPU warranty if using an after market cooler.