Fried Laptop MoBo

Asus G2S Laptop
Vista
2GhZ
4g ram


Ok this is an old machine but... yes I said But.. lol

K Mobo was fryed again. Bought a referbished board installed it powered it up and dam all I got was some lights on the dashboard. Looked like the hd was powering up but nothing. I'm wondering if the CPU could cause this refurbished to not work.. The people in China, where I bought the board which is half way around the world from me says the board was tested and proven to be a good board. I'm not sure that is the case as the board made it here with bent battery pins and the wifi switch was bent out of place so that when I tried to install the board in the housing it wouldn't fit.

Any who.. if the CPU is bad would that cause the my problem? I'm thinking yes, but how do I test the CPU? I don't see any obvious burns on it.


Thanks peeps,

GoodZ

:grouphug

 

CPU's are as susceptible to failure as any other electronic component though most CPU failures I have seen are from overheating, especially in laptops.

Perhaps the Inverter is bad and you just can't see the screen. Did you try an external monitor? On most laptops "Fn + F5" switches between internal and external monitors.

 

Thanks for the reply,

Yes I did hook up the laptop to regular pc external monitor and via HDMI. not a thing happened. In the process of taking the laptop to a shop to have them put in another CPU to see if it boots.

 

sadly in order to see what is wrong ina system you need a second system
so you can swap things over the 2 and see what is not working
so in order to see if the cpu is workign you need to place it in a working mobo
good luck on that
trying a cpu that works in your mobo will have either
the system works then the problem is in cpu
the system does not work so the fault is propably on mobo but still you do
not know about the cpu state

 

Hi my friend , is this your laptop's specification ? :wave

http://reviews.cnet.com/laptops/asus-g2s/4507-3121_7-32570680.html

 

Hi,

Thanks everyone for your responces!

For the most part yes this is very close.. nOt sure about LightScribe Technology or Mobile Intel PM965 Express, but I recognise all the other specs. so I would say Yes this is my machine.

On another note. Tested another CPU, a much slower one "T5450 1.66 GHZ 2MB Cache 667 MHZ FSB, and it worked so the T7500 chip got fried along with the board.

So it's working now but, yes But.. lol, The monitor on the laptop is not working, at least the black lamp in its not working. I replace the inverter board but made no difference. Any ideas as how or what I can do to fix that problem anyone?

 

I have hooked it up to HDMI and it is working, I can see an image on the laptop monitor but no illumination. Replaced the inverter board no change. could there be a broken wire somewhere causing this failure... I know stupid question... :-o

 

If the inverter is not the problem, it's probably the bulbs in the screen. The inverter is the more common problem but the bulbs are just florescent light bulbs so they do burn out. Replacing the bulbs in most cases is fairly difficult although some screen manufacturers do make it easy by making an access point for the bulbs.

 

Ok. So when I boot up the laptop I see an image but it is very dim. If the bulbs were burnt out wouldn't the screen be completely dark?

 

No you can still see a faint image so make sure the screen power connector is connected,double and triple check,my next move would be to test the inverter with a multimeter.

 

wow... a multimeter eh! Ok. how do I do that and what's a multimeter? lol I have a voltage meter in the garage but I really don't know how to use it very well.

Oh and I should say when I replaced the inverter board it appears that I don't have any kind of illumination at all now. I have two new inverter boards and tried them too but still no illumination at all. I'm pretty sure the inverters are ok as I never used them untill now and they were new boards.

 

The inverters are very high voltage and can be dangerous if your not careful JFYI.

Get two sewing pins and solder two wires to them "the thicker the insulation the better",put the pins in the inverter plug and turn on the laptop,be "careful not to touch the bare wires with your fingers or they'll give you a shock and be careful the pins and wires don't touch each other until you decide to bring them togther" if you bring the two wires together a spark should jump the gap meaning the inverter is working,this is safer for your multimeter

Inverters can go higher than 1000V which is usually the limit of most multimeters so it can damage them but the theory is the same instead of bringing the wires together touch them with the multimeter probes a spark may jump to the probes which means its working but you may get a voltage reading is your multimeter goes high enough,this method is safer for your inverter

If its a low voltage LED inverter the process is the same using the multimeter just check the voltage readout matches the backlight voltage.

The other way to test is to purchase a cheap inverter/CCFL tube from a computer store "£5"and connect that to the inverter,this method is much safer for your inverter and doesn't run the risk of damaging a multimeter.

You can use the inverter from a pc lighting ccfl kit to try and power the backlight to test it also, but this runs the risk of damaging the backlight with incorrect voltage although the risk is minimal is you don't leave it turned on too long.

EDIT a multimeter is a voltage meter that tests more than just voltage,I'm thinking if you don't know what one is the procedures I've described maybe too advanced,I'm sorry but I don't know of any other way to test them bar connecting the components to a similar laptop.

 

Ok. I'll try that tomorrow in the mean time I'll try and look up the Multimeter I have and see if this is capable of the task your are suggesting to me. I will have to ask you what setting I should be using for this test. I will attach a picuter of the meter so you can see what it is I have. Thanks a bunch for your help. I find this interesting and frustrating at the same time lol.

 

Set it to 1000V AC or higher,if it doesn't have this setting don't use it.

 

my multimeter

 

750V ~

The voltage us usually anything from about 500V to 1000V but could be higher,your mutlimeter may not even pick up anything due to the high frequency of the inverter.

Here I found you guide using the CCFL method to test the backlight since your a beginner.

http://www.fonerbooks.com/laptop14.htm

This is the method recommend you try until you know your way around electricity and multimeter's but its up to you.

 

Nope this meter is not capable of testing that high max is AC 750V

 

They actually go to 1999V or 2999V but they are not internally electrically insulated up to that voltage,the max voltage they are guaranteed to work at is 750AC or 1000DC.

My meter is similar to yours with a max safe voltage of 1000V but I have read voltages as high as 2000V albeit from low current sources.

I'm not tryna persuade you one way or the other I don't want you to ruin your multimeter.If you decide to test the inverter or backlight the method you use is up to you,each has its benefits and drawbacks I hope now though your a little more informed.

 

I'm up for it..but need some help setting the settings on my meter. what do I set it to test the bulb. Can't I just the bulb to see if is has a complete circut? I know there is a setting on my meter that tests just that, but I can't remember what position I have to set the meter at. Any help with this would be great.

:-o

 

Greetings, GoodZwell...

Just set your meter to its max setting. Most meters have over-voltage protection (either diode or fuse) so its doubtful that you will damage the meter - worst case should be a blown fuse...

And yes, you should be able to test the bulb resistance. Make sure the power is off and any residual voltage is drained, and the bulb should read very low resistance, probably in the single digits ohm-wise.

 

I don't think a backlight (fluorescent) bulb will show continuity at all. It should show a complete open either good or bad because there is no element connecting the ends.

 

Ah - my bad. I didn't know that: thanks, shnerdly. I'm assuming the voltage caveats still apply.

 

Fluorescent bulbs use high voltage, a digital multi-meter should protect itself if the voltage exceeds it's limits by displaying an over voltage error which would tell you that the inverter is putting out current.

 

Thanks guys great help. however I have no Idea what to set my meter too to get the proper readings. Sorry but I'm ADD and find reading the owners manual only confuses me more.. hehe.. sorry but if someone could tell me what settings i need to use would be a great help.

Thanks,

Goodz