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I bought a knife.....

Discussion in 'The Lounge' started by bigbazza, Jul 8, 2005.

  1. bigbazza

    bigbazza R.I.P. 14/12/2011 - Good Onya Geek

    from a local pawn shop, some time ago, in fairly good condition.

    Lakota Hawk by H.Suzuki, Seki, Japan. Example found on web at


    It really is a heavy thick bladed knife. Fits my big mitt well.

    Someone has tried to sharpen it and left shallow parallel scratches on both sides of the knife, towards the point.

    I'd like to remove them. I think they would polish out fairly easily. Any advice on how to do do this, and what to use, would be appreciated. Bazza

    U.S Pat no. D248,039 applies to handle design

  2. Rikky

    Rikky Wile E. Coyote - One of a kind

    To polish stainlesss,I first use some fine grit wet or dry sandpaper in the uk its labelled as eg.p1000 which would be fairly fine,it ranges from about p60 to p2000 the higher the number the smaller the grit on the paper the p represents the particle size in fractions of an inch p120 is about the same as the sand paper on the side of a matchbox,I would start with some p800 sand it for 10mins see how much it removes the scratches,if it dont try p600 or vice versa try p1000.

    When you pretty smooth wet the paper and smooth it out more,I think wet p1400 will give a good enough finish if it aint good enough obviously try the finer papers,up towards p2000 is the same as metal polish.

    When its all smooth polish it with metal polish ,the best I have ever used is called autosol its gold coloured and comes in a toothepaste like tube your local car shop should have some,I dont know if you can get it down under,or second best is metal polish wadding they use the same chemical,not sure what it is off hand but it has a reaction with the metal and the polish turns from white to black and it gives off a bit of an ammonia smell so you will know if you have the right stuff. ;)
  3. bigbazza

    bigbazza R.I.P. 14/12/2011 - Good Onya Geek

    Thanks , Rikky, for the quick reply. The scratches are mostly shallow. One or 2 on each side you can just detect by running a fingernail over them, but not the others. Will suss out our local hardware stores for really fine sandpaper. Don't think it will take anywhere 10 minutes to get rid of them, at least I hope so. That metal polish, cutting compund, sounds like a good idea also. I remember there are some fairly mild wet cutting compounds as well. Bazza


  4. Rikky

    Rikky Wile E. Coyote - One of a kind

    A good one you can find in your auto store is grinding paste for grinding car engine valves in,the stuff I have comes in a little pot with a lid on both ends,one has thick paste,the other finishing paste,its manufactured by holts,have you heard of them in aus?
  5. bigbazza

    bigbazza R.I.P. 14/12/2011 - Good Onya Geek

    Know what you mean by valve grinding paste. Not sure about "Holts" though. Will check. Thanks, Bazza


  6. Rikky

    Rikky Wile E. Coyote - One of a kind

    This is the best metal polish I have ever used,it dont say whats in it though
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2012
  7. BoredOutOfMyMind

    BoredOutOfMyMind Picabo, ICU

  8. Sasquatch77

    Sasquatch77 MajorGeek

    I think the wadding/polish Rikky describes could be something we used in the Corps on our brass...for a final polish it`s work well..it`d called...lol..."Brasso"
  9. bigbazza

    bigbazza R.I.P. 14/12/2011 - Good Onya Geek

    I know Brasso very well. It is ubiquitous (sp?) here in OZ, for polishing army brass stuff. too. Bit scared to use it on a good knife though, as it might be a bit too abrasive. I think I'll give it a try on a cheap kitchen knife first.:D Now I gotta find it.:p Bazza
  10. Sasquatch77

    Sasquatch77 MajorGeek

    Hey...we used the stuff on our uniform brass...you could see your face in it...and brass I`m thinking is softer than the steel used in a blade...unless of course it`s Jap steel lol

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