Oil Additives, Good Or Goblin?

Discussion in 'The Lounge' started by Fred_G, Mar 1, 2011.

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  1. Fred_G

    Fred_G Heat packin' geek

    OK, engine question for those of you who know of these things. Short story, bought a used Yota 02 Camry 4 banger. The engine was replaced with one from a wreaked car before I bought it.

    Everything is great, except for a small leak from the front main seal. We are talking about a few drops of oil where I park it. Not a big leak. Now, I bought the car as is, no warranty, the guy I got it from is a friend, and worked on my old truck and saved me a TON of money. The car was not leaking when I first got it.

    He said the used engine he put in it had set up for a while, some of the seals may be dried out. He recommends adding an oil additive he calls a 'seal softener'. He does not sell it, told me to go to NAPA and buy some. Are these additives helpful, or possibly harmful?

    As it is, I have had the car for over a month, I have had to add no oil, heck they might have put too much oil in it. I think we would be looking at a quart of oil every 8 weeks or so.

    I don't expect wonders from an additive. If it helps say, 40% I would be happy. I am afraid of using some additive and ruining good seals and gaskets. What say the gurus?
     
  2. Just Playin

    Just Playin MajorGeek

    The stuff is just a band-aid. If the stop leak works, plan on adding it every oil change and remember it will be doing it's magic on all your seals, even those that do not need softened.
     
  3. Rikky

    Rikky Wile E. Coyote - One of a kind

    Totally agree.

    Seal conditioner is for leaking valve guide seals,its to stop oil passing the valve guide seals and being burned by the engine so you can pass an emission test and hopefully keep a car on the road for a few more miles without a cylinder head rebuild,it won't fix an oil leak you need to find the leak and replace the gasket as the old one will probably have a split in it which no amount of softening will fix.

    Is it coming from the cylinder head cover?That's easy is it is just unscrew the rocker cover and put a new gasket in,bolt it down.Takes about 30mins and the gasket will cost about $5-10.An oil sump gasket change in just as easy apart from having the car on jacks.

    EDIT just done some research

    http://www.americantechnology.co.uk...-stop-leak-engine-oil---250ml-bottle-30-p.asp

    I dunno what to say now? I don't think it will work :-D You have to wait a 1000 miles before it does,to give you time to cool off or forget about the money your wasted on it.
     
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2011
  4. Fred_G

    Fred_G Heat packin' geek

    That confirms my thoughts. The leak is in the 'front main seal' The way the engine is installed, looks like a TON of labor costs to fix it. I wish it was an easy one to fix.

    But, my truck I traded, in, unfortunately, the transmission took a dive. That one is parked until further notice. My car just drips a little on the ground. I feel sorry for the guy that bought my old truck, but I traded it in. So he can give someone else the stink eye.

    I think I will just watch the oil level, save my $, and pay to get it fixed in a few months.

    Thanks for the info.
     
  5. Colemanguy

    Colemanguy MajorGeek

    We have been adding some similar stuff to soften the seals on our old m109a3 truck, as when we first got it and had parked in my buddys hanger we would notice small amounts of dripping while parked. After a week or so the leaks stopped and haven't returned again, even after we changed the oil in january with no special additives, so for it what its worth my vote is go ahead, depending on how bad conditions are, it may be just the thing.
     
  6. Fred_G

    Fred_G Heat packin' geek

    Well, thanks Coleman. Nothing like indecision. ;)

    The guy is not trying to sell me the stuff. He says it might help.
     
  7. Rikky

    Rikky Wile E. Coyote - One of a kind

    It would be helpful if you could locate the exact spot of the leak and clean it off,if there's no split it might be worth a try.
     
  8. Colemanguy

    Colemanguy MajorGeek

    Yea sorry i could be more helpful but everyone seemed down on the stuff, and i know we used some sort of seal softening additive that stopped some of the leaks we had that we tried various our ways to stop. Granted theres problem a large difference between our 1985 am general 2.5 ton shop van and your camry.
     
  9. Fred_G

    Fred_G Heat packin' geek

    Rikky, the engine is mounted sideways, and is very close to the fender well of the car. No way I can see the seal. Perhaps it can be fixed without pulling the engine, but I don't think it can.

    There is about 1 1/4" between the pulleys and the fender well, and the leak looks to be a little over 6" down.

    Gonna start saving up some cash, and get a second mechanic's opinion. Well, I guess I can say I don't get cheap leaks? :-D
     
  10. Just Playin

    Just Playin MajorGeek

    Can you remove the wheel and see the area from there?
     
  11. TimW

    TimW MajorGeeks Administrator - Jedi Malware Expert Staff Member

    In very high mileage vehicles, I tend to put in Lucas oil additive.
     
  12. Fred_G

    Fred_G Heat packin' geek

    I did not think of that. Yes, looking around the wheel with a flashlight I can see a good deal more of it. Might be doable. I think I am going to get a second opinion on it.
     
  13. bigfurrykid

    bigfurrykid Sergeant

    Hey there Fred. You're about to not like what I have to say on this one, but trust me, it's for the best.

    I'm a retired service manager/technician, with 30 years in the auto business.

    Fix that oil leak!!!

    The most common culprit is the front crankshaft seal. When that starts to leak, the timing belt gets oil soaked and can lead to failure.

    The proper way is to replace the timing belt, tensioners and pulleys, water pump and crankshaft and camshaft seals.

    Again, if that timing belt gets oil soaked, it can break and there goes the engine.

    Sorry to have to be the bearer of the bad news.
     
  14. Fred_G

    Fred_G Heat packin' geek

    OK, a bit of an update here. I have found someone who will do the work at a reasonable rate. Am going to replace all of the front seals, and of course the belts, idlers, and possibly the water pump and/or oil pump, depending on what he thinks.

    Should be a done deal next week. I am waiting for one more paycheck, and the guy to look over the engine and see what all needs to be done. Supposedly, this can be done in one day, and my former boss has offered the use of his shop, lifts, and tools for the job. :-D

    Additives are all fine and good. I was thinking Goblin when I posted. It might delay the fix, but mess with other seals. I say cry once, and get the car fixed right.

    I let a Mazda 6 owner drive it today. The Mazda is a V6, mine is a 4 banger. He said it was fast as heck from 0 to 50. :-D
     
  15. Just Playin

    Just Playin MajorGeek

    If you're pulling it out, and I suspect you will if you plan on pulling pumps, do the rear seal also.
     
  16. Transformation36

    Transformation36 Private E-2

    I am also interested in this. When I ask many people, they always give different answers and I don't know who to reallly listen do anymore :D ...i hope someone can really clarify this
     
  17. Fred_G

    Fred_G Heat packin' geek


    Actually, I am not pulling anything! :-D I found a guy that will fix the seal for me for a couple hundred bucks. I also found out that my engine is from an 03 Camry, which has a timing chain, not a belt. As such, I am told the only seals would be the crank, and oil pump, and maybe the water pump? Before he works on it, the guy that is going to do the work is going to check it out, and we will see what all parts need to be ordered.
     
  18. Fred_G

    Fred_G Heat packin' geek

    Jeez, now I am more confused. Update. I have an 02 Camry, with an 03 engine in it, which has a timing chain, not timing belt. A couple of Sundays ago, I changed the oil, and cleaned the engine really well. Oil leak seems to have stopped. No more drips on the concrete. I put 3.5 quarts in when I changed the oil, I could not get the oil filter off without having the car on a lift.

    And yeah, I checked the oil, it is down slightly, but nowhere near the add oil line, after a couple of weeks. So, WTF? Oil leaks don't normally fix themselves. I am wondering if the people that replaced the engine put too much oil in? That would cause higher pressure. But what to do now?

    Since it is a timing chain car, I am told the front main and belt is not much at all to replace. The belt looks a little worn, so I am not opposed to just having the seal and belt replaced as a preventative thing.

    This is the first time an oil leak ever stopped. With an ample supply of oil of course. :confused I am stumped never seen an oil leak just go away.
     
  19. Rikky

    Rikky Wile E. Coyote - One of a kind

    Its like a 100,000 mile job changing a timing chain so unless your approaching or over that wouldn't bother.Give it check to see how much sideways play is in it,see if there's any damage to the chain or cam teeth.Run the engine and listen see if it's making any grinding noises and make sure its still lubed up.

    Chains last forever

    And I wouldn't worry about the oil leak either:-DEDIT Ermm? Did you fill the oil filter with oil before replacing it?You could of caused an air lock somewhere that's the only theory I can come up with as to why it stopped but its unlikey,checked your oil pressure warning light and remove the oil filter again to check its full of oil.
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2011
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