Power Supply Surges Detected

Rawb · Feb 7, 2013

Hello all!

I just purchased a new barebones computer and, after fleshing it out, I've started running into problems: After gaming for a while (30-45 minutes), my computer just restarts. When it comes back up, I see the following BIOS error:

Power supply surges detected during the previous power on.
Asus Anti-Surge was triggered to protect system from unstable power supply unit!

When I check the BIOS, all the voltages are normal except for 5V. That shows +5.550 in red.

If I don't run any games, it seems to have no trouble. No restarts, no unexpected lockups or slowdowns, nothing.

I've run CPUID's Hardware Monitor and got these results (see attached image).

My computer is as follows:
700W PSU
Asus P8H77-V LE motherboard
2 SATA HDDs
AMD Radeon HD 6950 Video
Sound Blaster X-Fi Gamer
4GB DDR2 RAM

Is this a case of a bad PSU or is there maybe something else going on?

cosmicma · Feb 7, 2013

looking at the attached image your 12 volt rails are at 8 volt which looks odd at best
looks like it's time for a new PSU no point in messing about there cheap enough just to replace

Rawb · Feb 7, 2013

At the time I was running HW Monitor my computer was largely idle: I'd just been searching the web for similar issues. I hadn't been playing games or doing anything heavy-duty. Would that make a difference on the voltages shown?

And, even if it does, what would be a good PS to buy? I've done a little looking this morning and found a 1000W 80+ Bronze Certified one that has 2x 6 pin plugs (needed for my video card) and reports 83A on the +12V rail. It's only got a single rail though.

And, while I'm here... >.>

I was thinking that finding a dual rail PS would be better than a single rail because I could plug a 6 pin from each rail into the video card. Does this make sense or am I way off base and a single rail PS would be the way to go?

collinsl · Feb 7, 2013

Rawb said: ↑

At the time I was running HW Monitor my computer was largely idle: I'd just been searching the web for similar issues. I hadn't been playing games or doing anything heavy-duty. Would that make a difference on the voltages shown?

And, even if it does, what would be a good PS to buy? I've done a little looking this morning and found a 1000W 80+ Bronze Certified one that has 2x 6 pin plugs (needed for my video card) and reports 83A on the +12V rail. It's only got a single rail though.

And, while I'm here... >.>

I was thinking that finding a dual rail PS would be better than a single rail because I could plug a 6 pin from each rail into the video card. Does this make sense or am I way off base and a single rail PS would be the way to go?
Click to expand...

Your plan for dual rails is solid.

I would however recommend that you buy a good quality PSU. Allow me to let Digerati explain:

Digerati said:

Use the eXtreme PSU Calculator Lite to determine the minimum and recommended power supply unit (PSU) requirements. Plan ahead and plug in all the hardware you think you might have in 2 or 3 years (extra drives, bigger or 2nd video card, more RAM, etc.). Be sure to read and heed the notes at the bottom of the calculator page. I recommend setting Capacitor Aging to 30% (see my note below), and if you participate in distributive computing projects (e.g. BOINC or Folding@Home) or extreme 3D animated gaming, I recommend setting both TDP and system load to 100%. These steps ensure the supply has adequate head room for stress free (and perhaps quieter) operation, as well as future hardware demands. Research your video card and pay particular attention to the power supply requirements for your card listed on your video card maker's website. If not listed, check a comparable card (same graphics engine and RAM) from a different maker. The key specifications, in order of importance are:

Current (amperage or amps) on the +12V rail,

Efficiency,

Total wattage.

Don’t try to save a few dollars by getting a cheap supply! Digital electronics, including CPUs, RAM, and today's advanced graphics cards, need clean, stable power. A good, well chosen supply will provide years of service and upgrade wiggle room. Look for power supply brands listed under the "Good" column of PC Mech's PSU Reference List. Another excellent read is Tom’s Hardware, Who’s Who In Power supplies: Brands, Labels, And OEMs. Note that some case retailers “toss in” a generic or inadequate PSU just to make the case sale. Be prepared to “toss out” that supply for a good one with sufficient power.

Most PSUs have an efficiency rating of around 70%. This means for every 100 watts of power a PSU draws from the wall, only 70 watts is delivered to the motherboard, with the rest wasted in the form of heat. The best supplies are 85 to 90% efficient, and as expected, cost more. I strongly recommend you pick a quality supply with an efficiency rating equal to or greater than 80%. Look for 80 PLUS and EnergyStar Compliant labels. 80 PLUS PSUs are required to have fairly linear efficiencies. This is important to ensure the PSU is running at or near peak efficiency regardless the load or power demands. Non-linear PSUs typically are most efficient when the load is in a narrow range between 70 and 90% of the PSU’s capacity and the efficiency may drop dramatically above and below those amounts.

Too big of a PSU hurts nothing but your budget. Your computer will draw from the PSU only what it needs, not what the PSU is capable of delivering. If a computer needs 300 watts it will draw 300 watts regardless if the PSU is a 400W, 650W, or 1000W PSU. In turn, the PSU, regardless its size will draw from the wall only what it needs to support the computer. In this example, it will draw 300 watts, plus another 45 – 90 watts, depending on the PSU’s inefficiency.

As noted, the eXtreme Calculator determines minimum and recommended requirements. If the calculator (with the changes I suggested) recommends a 400 watt minimum, a quality 400W supply will serve you just fine. However, a quality 550W – 600W supply will have, among other things, larger heat sinks to dissipate potentially more heat. It might have a larger fan too. The 400W supply will run most of the time closer to capacity, while the larger supply will be loafing along, rarely breaking a sweat. To help the smaller heat sinks get rid of the wasted 80 watts (20% of 400) of heat, the fan in the 400W supply may need to run full speed, while the fan in the larger supply, with bigger sinks just loafs along too – but in near silence. Also, it is typical for manufacturers to use higher quality parts, design, and manufacturing techniques in their higher power supplies.

Note: Capacitor Aging. All electronics “age” over time. Electrons flowing through components bang around and create friction and heat causing wear and tear, altering the electrical characteristics of the device. Over time, this weakens the device resulting in eventual failure. Power supplies have always suffered profoundly from aging effects resulting in a loss of capacity. In recent years, capacitor technologies have improved. The best PSUs use the best (and most expensive) capacitors which suffer less from aging effects than older capacitor types. If planning on buying a new, high-end PSU, setting capacitor aging to 10% may result in a more realistic recommendation. However, headroom “buffer” will be significantly reduced. You can expect your PSU to last 5 years or longer. Since it is better to buy too big rather than too small, and since it is hard to predict what your power requirements will be in 3 years, using 30% for Capacitor Aging ensures you have enough headroom for virtually any upgrade.

Don't forget to budget for a good UPS with AVR (automatic voltage regulation). Surge and spike protectors are inadequate and little more than fancy, expensive extension cords.
Click to expand...

Rawb · Feb 8, 2013

First off, thanks for all the info! While I wasn't able to find a good dual-rail PS that met my requirements, I did find a single-rail that had the amperage to handle my entire computer almost twice over

Also, I think I figured out what was wrong with my original PS! Because it didn't have enough 6pin connectors for my video card (it needed 2), I had to get a MOLEX to 6pin adapter. And because I was using this adapter, it ended up pulling power for my video card from the 5V rail (which didn't have enough amperage).

This forced my 5V rail basically to overload when the video card was used. I'm guessing that it also drained power from the 12V rail (all the rails really) to compensate. Luckily, I have onboard video that I can use until my replacement PS arrives.

Log in or Sign up

Power Supply Surges Detected

Rawb Private E-2

Attached Files:

HWMon.png

cosmicma Private E-2

Rawb Private E-2

collinsl MajorGeek

Rawb Private E-2

Log in or Sign up

Power Supply Surges Detected

Rawb Private E-2

Attached Files:

HWMon.png

cosmicma Private E-2

Rawb Private E-2

collinsl MajorGeek

Rawb Private E-2

Useful Searches