Surround Sound

I have bad eyes can anybody tell me how to find the Height of this Surround Sound System?
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/onkyo-7...heater-receiver-black/5017403.p?skuId=5017403

 

Dimension

• Height
  6.61 inches
• Width
  20.5 inches
• Depth
  16.92 inches
• Weight
  20.5 pounds

 

For future reference, the text is too small on a web page, you can hold down the Ctrl key and press + to zoom in and - to zoom back out to temporarily make the text larger or smaller.

Also, I generally recommending going to the source for such information and not retail outlets. If you check with the Onkyo website for the TX-SR353 Receiver, the dimensions listed there are:

Dimensions (W x H x D)17 1/8" x 6 5/8" x 12 7/8" (435 x 168 x 326.5 mm)​

Those are considerably different (except for height) than those listed at Best Buy. I don't know where those Best Buy figures came from as they are not even the same as those listed for the carton on Onkyo's site (except for the weight).

 

I need to finde one that is around the Height of a DVD Player.
Can you help?

 

DVD players come in all sizes too. You need to be specific, then I recommend you visit an electronics store with a tape measure.

 

I wanted one about 3 inch High.

 

My advice remains the same.

I cannot recommend an A/V receiver based on height alone. The A/V receiver is the heart of an entire home entertainment center and is too important to choose based on height.

 

I am looking at small surround sound reacevers on this site.
http://www.songsimian.com/best-small-5-1-receiver-compact-mini-slim-smallest-review/

The first one Marantz NR1500 Slim Line I thought was good.
My speakers I have are 8. Ohms.

But if you watch the video on the site here for it it tells you it has no "Surround Sound Something".
Or did I miss understand them?

 

I didn't watch the video but by definition, a 5.1 receiver IS a surround sound receiver. 5.1 means left and right front, center front, and left and right rear/surround plus the .1 for the LFE (low frequency effects) or subwoofer.

What it probably is referring to is simulated surround sound where it takes a stereo source and synthesizes surround sound. Or add effects to simulate a concert hall, auditorium, or open-air sound stage.

 

What's their power rating, in watts? That pumps out 50 watts per channel.

It lacks Dolby Atmos and DTS:X support because it's only 5 channel surround as opposed to 7 channel surround sound. I doubt you'll miss it.

 

I know DTS Mode will Decode Surround Sound and uses less compression.

But Dolby Digital and Doby True HD I do not know what the diferances are?

I did look them up and I see Doby True HD uses no Compression so this would be good.
But I thought Doby Digital came out first???

Can you help me understand?

 

Here's an overview of all the Dolby Digital Versions.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dolby_Digital

 

DTS is different form of surround sound. It's a competitor to Dolby surround sound.

Not exactly. It's lossless. Dolby Digital gets rid of part of the audio, like sound frequencies people can't hear, as part of it's file compression. Dolby True HD does not discard any of the audio as part of it's compression.

It did.

I hope so.

 

When I look up DTS I do see how it is a Surround Sound System.
And how it uses Compresstion.
But I do not see anything about how it Simulates Surround Sound?

I thought I read it some time ago???

 

All your audio codecs use compression.

Both Dolby and DTS produce electronics that can simulate surround sound from stereo or mono sources. They license these products to home theater manufacturers.

 

While these protocols may support simulated surround sound, simulated surround sound really has nothing to do with those "industry standard" protocols. Basic simulated surround sound is just a special effects function of the receiver (or preamp). Special effects have been around forever - probably starting with echo/reverb effects, to "Loudness" (where they boost the extreme highs and lows at low volumes).

When "quadraphonic" receivers came on the home audio scene in the early to mid 70s, there was very little "discrete" 4-channel music sources (vinyl was still the primary source of music then and quad LPs didn't work so well). So equipment makers started simulating surround sound. Dolby Noise Reduction was around back then, but not Dolby surround simulation. And DTS was 20 years away yet.

 

Let's not be pedantic.

 

And lets not stifle other's contributions just because you don't want to hear it. Your narrow focused comment about Dolby and DTS recent simulated surround sound capabilities was no less pedantic than my comments. Actually, I take that back since pedantic suggests a narrow look vs the big picture. Simulated surround sound is much bigger than what Dolby and DTS offer. Especially since you don't need either Dolby or DTS to simulate surround sound.

 

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It's not about me... or you. It's about the questions biferi asked.

 

Well, you quoted me, but now you accuse the OP was being pedantic for asking his questions?

Don't assume compression is automatically bad. Dolby made its mark by using compression to suppress noise in recording. Frankly, I would be more concerned with how the source material was compressed during the recording process rather than the playback.

 

I see a Yamaha RX-V379 and it says it is 130 Watts.

Can anybody tell me if this is the RMS Wattage?

It is the second video on this page.
http://www.songsimian.com/best-small-5-1-receiver-compact-mini-slim-smallest-review/

 

That's peak power output. It's 70 watts RMS.
https://www1.crutchfield.com/p_022RXV379/Yamaha-RX-V379.html

 

Thank you.
70 Watts per CH. is a little Low for me.

Is there any Good small Surround Systems on this page with good Wattage per CH.?

Thank you.

 

Why? The relationship between power and loudness is logarithmic. In order for you to get a unit twice as loud, it would need to be 10x more powerful, 700 watts. If you went with a 100 watt system, it would only be about 6-7% louder.

 

70 watts RMS per channel is plenty unless you live in a concert hall.

 

There is no direct correlation between power and loudness without (1) knowing the efficiency of the specific speaker and (2) the specific output frequency at that point in time.

This becomes extremely complex with music which has a huge dynamic range (soft to very loud passages) and very wide frequency range with layer upon layer of harmonics. And the efficiency of any speaker varies greatly throughout its frequency range. That is, the same speaker may be very efficient at 12KHz but very inefficient at 60Hz.

70W driving speaker "A" may shake the house while 70W driving speaker "B" may have you straining to hear what is happening.

Also, while "fidelity" may be defined as "the faithful reproduction of the original sound source", perceived sound "quality" is also very subjective. Some folks prefer an exaggerated bass while others prefer "brighter" highs. In reality, if you "equalize" a system to a room for a perfectly "flat" response, most people will not like the sound.

Bottom line: You need to go audition speakers yourself - preferably in your own listening room with your own source materials (favorite tunes).