What Hardware Is Needed For Roku With Cable Internet?

TV streaming is new to me and I'm trying to figure out what I need to use Roku with cable internet service.

I don't understand what hardware is needed, other than the Roku player, which things I'll need to buy and how they all connect.
I can't run a cable from the computer to the TV because it's in a different room. They use separate cable wall connections.

The cable modem for the computer is a Zoom 5341-J DOCSIS 3.0. I've had it for 7 months and I'm happy with it.

According to Roku documentation, the Roku player has to plug into a router.
Supposedly, a wired connection is better than wireless. That's fine with me.

So to use the cable access hookup near the TV, does this mean that I'll need both a modem and a router to connect the Roku player ??

The TV is not a Smart TV but does have (2) HDMI inputs. None of my stuff is wireless.

I figured this is the best place to come. Thanks!

 

You only EVER need just one modem. You modem is your "residential gateway" device to the Internet and everything on your network (everything on your side of the gateway device) gains access to the Internet via that one modem.

You only need a router if you will be connecting more than one device to the Internet. Since most people have several devices, most people need a router. From there, to connect multiple devices to a router, you need an Ethernet witch and/or a WAP (wireless access port). Most routers today include a WAP internally and they also have a 4-port Ethernet switch too. These integrated devices are often call "wireless routers".

Typically, Roku devices are connected in one of two ways.

1. Wired: The Roku connects to your network via Ethernet cable to the router/switch, and to your TV via HDMI.
2. Wireless: The Roku connects to your network via wireless (WiFi) to your WAP/wireless router, and to your TV via HDMI.

I see LauraR just stepped in but I am not sure I agree with the suggestion. I note you would only connect directly to that Zoom modem (which according this is a "modem only" device) if you don't have any computers, tablets, or other devices in your home that need Internet access. If you have more than this Roku device that needs Internet access, you MUST connect the Roku to a router/switch. And then that router connects to the modem.

 

Thank You! It's beginning to make sense now.

No. The modem is not near the TV. The modem and computers are in a different room.

Thanks Digerati.
Your Amazon link is correct and in fact that is where I bought it.
I'm assuming "modem only" means no WiFi, which of course it does not have.
Also correct about the number of connections. Right now there is only one, so no router was necessary.

It would be somewhat difficult to run an Ethernet cable from the router, at the computer/modem location, to the Roku/TV,
and it would need to be about 40 feet long. I may do that in the future.

So, I would like some suggestions for an appropriate wireless router.
Here are a few I found that have good reviews, but it does not have to be one of these.

• ASUS RT-N66U
• TP-LINK Archer C7 AC1750
• TP-LINK AC1200
• TP-LINK AC1900

I'll also have to choose between Roku 2 and Roku 3.

 

Not really. It means it is just a modem.

Let's back up just a bit.

It is important to understand that technically, the modem, router, WAP (wireless access point or AP) and 4-port Ethernet switch are all totally separate, "discrete" network devices.

1. A modem (modulator/demodulator) is used as a "gateway device" to provide access to the ISP's network.
2. A router has just one input and one output and is used to connect (or isolate) two networks. In a home network, a router connects "your network" (the router and everything on your side of the router) to the ISP's network through the gateway device/modem.
3. A Ethernet switch (also called a switching hub) is used to connect multiple networked devices on your network to your side of the router.
4. A WAP is used provide WiFi access to your network.

Technically speaking, there is no such thing as a "wireless router". That is simply a "marketing" term for a "3-way" "integrated" device consisting of a router, a Ethernet switch (typically 4-port), and a WAP. These are 3 discrete network devices that just happen to share the same box, same PCB (printed circuit board) and same power supply. Note the 4-port switch connects internally to the router's one input. And the WAP actually connects internally to a 5th Ethernet port of the switch.

In recent years manufacturers have also been integrating a modem with "wireless routers" for a 4-way integrated device. 4 discrete devices in one box. These are "marketed" under different terms like "residential gateway" devices, "wireless modems" or "modem/routers".

In some cases, they even have 5-way devices that integrate Internet phone too. 5 discrete devices, in one box.

So for your Zoom modem when they say "modem only", that just means it is not integrated with any other network device - not necessarily Wifi.

Clear as mud, huh?

This integration is not new to computing or consumer electronics. Your motherboard is an integrated device that includes a NIC (network interface card) and a sound card too. "Discrete" devices that just happen to share a circuit board and power supply. Your motherboard may also have an integrated graphics card too.

Home theater/stereo "receivers" are integrated devices that integrate the preamp, power amplifier and tuner in one box and share a power supply.

Then you need a router. For security reasons alone, I always recommend the use of a router - even for networks of just one computer. A router provides a very significant layer of security because it assumes the IP address provided by the ISP, then assigns new IP addresses to each connected device that are harder for bad guys to access. The better routers also include SPI - stateful packet inspection. This is a firewall protocol and adds yet another layer of protection for your whole network.

Of the routers you listed above, I would go for the TP-LINE AC1900 or the TP-LINK Archer C7 AC1750 (most likely the 1750 because all my other gear is black). I would pick those two because (1) they support the latest 802.11ac wireless protocols for extended future proofing. (2) They have USB ports to support network printing and NAS (network attached storage) devices (networked printing is the way to go!). And (3) they have detachable antennas which can help extend ranges if you have great distances to reach or many floors/ceilings/walls to go through. While most users don't need detachable antennas, they can, in some cases, help and eliminate the needs for "range extenders".

I cannot speak for the Roku devices. I just remember I decided on the Roku 3 for me and I've been very happy with it. That said, I wired my house for Ethernet years ago so my Roku connects that way. I cannot speak for its wireless performance.

 

Thanks to LauraR and Digerati for the responses and especially for the detailed description and explanation.

I've been researching routers. There are many models, differing reviews and experiences from users.

I like the vertical orientation of certain models since they use less desk space, similar to the TP-Link AC1900 and AC1750.

The ones I'm most interested in are two from TRENDnet which are at least $35 less than those two TP-Link models (Amazon.com).
I think one is an older model, but I'm not sure. Also, they are priced differently at Amazon and Newegg.

• TRENDnet TEW-812DRU AC1750 Version 2.1
• TRENDnet TEW-824DRU AC1750

The TEW-812DRU was a PCMAG Editor's Choice in this review.

At Newegg.com, the TEW-824DRU got some very good "Eggxpert" reviews.
Even though it is the same Model Number, it is not the same item pictured at Amazon.com.

Both of the TEW-824DRU models shown have a bottom left and right flange molded into the router's housing for better stability.
Several reviewers of the TEW-812DRU noted that it was a bit "wobbly".

I'm not sure which would be a better choice? According to the specs., Both are 802.11ac and DD-WRT compatible.
The newer model does not have all of the front panel indicator lights, but it does look better and would be physically more stable.


E D I T:
According to the Amazon.com feature chart on this page:

• TEW-812DRU has a Dual Core processor and USB 3.0
• TEW-824DRU has a Single Core processor and USB 2.0 and StreamBoost

On the Newegg.com page TEW-824DRU Specifications

**************************************
MANUFACTURER'S PRODUCT PAGE:

AC1750 Dual Band with StreamBoost TEW-824DRU (Version v1.0R)
AC1750 Dual Band TEW-812DRU (Version v2.xR)
**************************************

 

Routers MUST use standard networking protocols. That is, 802.3 Ethernet is 802.3 Ethernet. And 802.11ac wireless is 802.11ac wireless. If there was anything proprietary about them, consumers would be forced to buy all our network equipment from the same manufacturer and that would be a real PITA and much more expensive. So compatibility is not an issue.

IF you will be, or some time down the road will be connecting any USB devices to your router, then I would go with the one that supports USB 3.0 for the fastest throughput. That said, you probably would not be able to tell the difference if "only" USB 2.0. And frankly, if you have a network printer or a network storage device (the two main uses for USB support on a router), connecting via Ethernet or wifi is generally just as fast (if not faster) and definitely more convenient and most likely more reliable anyway. This is because USB, despite its claims, is just not that reliable an interface for high-speed data transfers. And for sure, no printer (being highly mechanical) can keep up with network speeds anyway so you don't need a fast connection for network printing.

Wobbly? Is that really important? Is this router going in a boat or something? Do you live next to railroad tracks or under the approach of a busy airport and your house rattles and stuff "walks" off shelves every time a train passes or plane takes off? Do you have a herd of cats climbing all over your computer desk? It seems like those reviewers were reaching.

And note I am an Eggxpert at Newegg and rarely ever put any faith in those reviews unless there are many that have the exact same complaint. The problem with "user" reviews is most reviewers don't have any real technical expertise in that area. They are just frequent buyers at Newegg. This means they don't have the necessary test equipment or skills to properly test the products. (2) They typically don't have a host of competing products to compare with. And (3) products are often down rated because UPS delivered the product next door, FedEx dropped the box, or Newegg sent the wrong color.

As far as the Qualcomm "Streamboost" feature, how many devices will be connected and used at the same time in your house? If you have several teenaged kids who will be streaming YouTube videos or network gaming or doing BitTorrent downloads the same time you will be watching Netflix through your Roku device, you may want to get the one with Streamboost. But note you can set the priority for any device in just about any router through the admin menu using QoS settings. If you don't live in a busy household, you don't need it. And note when it comes to BitTorrent and teenaged kids, that typically involves illegal filesharing of tunes and videos (a severe security risk, not to mention copyright violations) so I would block that anyway.

So based on the fact your opening posts don't suggest you have a bunch of computer users in your home that will be active at the same time, the bottom line here is your bottle neck is likely to be the bandwidth provided by your ISP connection/contract, not your router. Meaning, you can buy just about any router you want and be good to go.