Rattle (loud) : Power supply ?

3 yr. old, gaming desktop (custom built); sounds as if a fan was hitting something; seemed to be coming from power supply; tech guy said, sounds like power supply; i sprayed condensed air, especially around fan; lifted up computer, moved it around a little: noise went away ! i had put a phone book on top of computer a few days ago (this probably has nothing to do with the noise); tech said he would charge $150 dollars, if it's only the power supply. is it 'ok' to keep using the computer, as long as the rattling, loud noise doesn't come back ? tech guy said maybe i need more power to play games; i was playing game 'risen'; some of the system requirements say you need 2 gb ram to play 'risen', others say 1 gb; my computer has only 1 gb ram; the game runs a little slow, choppy sometimes; thanks

 

Greetings, xjimmie6...

Sounds like a fan bearing going south, or the blades hitting a cable...

You can actually replace the fan in a power supply (it's no different than other system fans - you just have to make sure that the replacement has the same connections and footprint)...

As far as the memory needed for your game, I would think that more RAM would certainly help: even if the game only requires 1gb, a good chunk of your memory is being used for your operating system, other programs, etc...

 

I advise against replacing fans inside PSUs. Yes, it can be done, but understand there are deadly voltages inside a PSU so they are not designed for user access, so in that sense, it is very different from other case fans. Also, and more importantly from a technical aspect, the correct replacement is more than just the right connector and footprint. The correct fan must also move the same amount (or more) of air, measured in cubic feet per minute (CFM) - and that is determined by the rotation speed, pitch, and blade width. It would be better to replace the PSU with one capable of supporting additional hardware, and one that will carry you through additional years of service.

You need to ensure that it is the PSU's fan, and not another fan. I would open the side of the computer case and look inside and see if you can pinpoint the source of the sound. Put your ear to the back of the PSU too and listen.

If the sound is now gone, you need to determine if the fan is still spinning, or if it went away because the bearings have finally seized, and the fan is no longer spinning.

If all fans are still spinning, it is not likely any damage will occur, but it is likely the fan will fail sooner or later. If not spinning, the PSU may over heat with 2 possible outcomes: (1) the PSU will simply shut down, or (2) it will fail catastrophically and that would not be good as that could result in additional damage to your computer. A quality, brand name PSU is more likely to simply shut down to avoid damaging anything else. But sadly, there are many poor quality, generic, off-brand PSUs out there, often manufactured using substandard parts and forced (often underaged :cry :mad), poorly trained labor.

The phone book making the sound go away suggests to me excessive vibration is going on. But simply putting a heavy book on top would not stop the fan itself from making noise, but it might stop a nearby wire from wiggling about and being hit by a fan blade, thus making the noise. So again, an internal inspection is in order.

$150 to replace the PSU may be about right, if that includes a top quality, name brand PSU, and 1 hour of labor time (which is more than enough). But note replacing the PSU is one of the easier tasks. Four screws on the back of the case and PSU slips out. All the connectors are "keyed", meaning they can only be inserted one way. The trick is to ensure everything needing power gets connected, the extra cables are tucked away and cables are routed to allow for good air flow without knocking something else loose while digging around inside, and without scraping the flesh off your knuckles. There's no software to install.

I agree that adding another 1Gb of RAM will help smooth out your game play and improve the computer's performance. But if you are using on-board graphics, I would probably suggest getting a graphics card first as that will free up any system RAM currently being used for graphics processing, in effect, giving you a little RAM increase in the process.

Below is my canned text on sizing and selecting a new PSU.

Use the eXtreme PSU Calculator Lite to determine your power supply unit (PSU) requirements. Plug in all the hardware you think you might have in 2 or 3 years (extra drives, bigger or 2nd video card, more RAM, etc.). Be sure to read and heed the notes at the bottom of the page. I recommend setting Capacitor Aging to 30%, and if you participate in distributive computing projects (e.g. BOINC or Folding@Home), I recommend setting TDP to 100%. These steps ensure the supply has adequate head room for stress free operation and future demands. Research your video card and pay particular attention to the power supply requirements for your card listed on your video card maker's website. If not listed, check a comparable card (same graphics engine and RAM) from a different maker. The key specifications, in order of importance are:

1. Current (amperage or amps) on the +12V rail,
2. Efficiency,
3. Total wattage.

Then look for power supply brands listed under the "Good" column of PC Mechanic's PSU Reference List. Ensure the supplied amperage on the +12V rails of your chosen PSU meets the requirements of your video card. Don't try to save a few dollars by getting a cheap supply. And don't count on supplies that come included with a case. They are often underrated, budget or poor quality models "tossed in" to make the case sale. Digital electronics, including CPUs, RAM, and today's advanced graphics cards, need clean, stable power. A good, well chosen supply will provide years of service and upgrade wiggle room. I strongly recommend you pick a supply with an efficiency rating equal to, or greater than 80%. Look for the 80 Plus - EnergyStar Compliant label. And don't forget to budget for a good UPS with AVR (automatic voltage regulation), as surge and spike protectors are inadequate.