liquid cooling

looking into liquid cooling really want to get this can somebody tell me the pros and cons of liquid cooling and could anyone refer me to to a good link?

 

I have been looking into this too - I just had a look at wikipedia and they have some good links at the bottom:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_cooling

I was looking at getting this to go with my Coolermaster Wavemaster: anyone used it? I want to mount it internally:

http://www.coolermaster.com/index.p..._serial=ALC-U01&other_title=+ALC-U01+AQUAGATE

 

http://www.extremeoverclocking.com/reviews/cooling/Aquagate_ALC-U01_1.html

Theres a review on the Coolermaster AquaGate.... Which i was looking at for some time... I also considered buying Thermaltakes BigWater kit...

http://www.bigbruin.com/reviews/ttbigwater/

How much are you looking to spend?

 

i like this page http://www.xoxide.com/watcoolcas1.html

 

well I'm not sure how much I spend what's the best one I could get for a good price?

 

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16835181002&CMP=OTC-pr1c3watch&ATT=Fans

Thats if youve got the moo-lah though... Otherwise, the Thermaltake Bigwater is a perfectly good setup, or anything by swiftech.

 

Or you might want to look at Peltier cooling.
A good Peltier cooler can get your cpu into the freezing range.
Just make sure you are thorough with the silicon sealant
around the cpu base. You don't want condensation to work its
way around to the pins.
The neat thing about a good Peltier setup is that you can vary
the voltage for different temperature ranges.
Peltier cooling is cheaper than water cooling, without the risk of a flood.

 

Yes but peltier cooling is also riskier... and nobody wants to silicon up their CPU, and i hear its BAD for your CPU to be freezing...

 

Overclockers do it all the time. Besides, like I said you can
vary the voltage to get the temp to wherever you want.
I have an internet buddy from another bb that sent me a pic
of one he did. Very cool. And very cold

 

how hard is it to install a kit, I'm really looking into this, and would this help cool my graphics card at all I'm new to this.

 

You can get something like the THERMALTAKE BIGWATER KIT OR SOMETHING FROM SWIFTECH...

Good watercooling sites:
www.xoxide.com
www.frozencpu.com
www.iceepc.com
www.crazypc.com
www.dangerden.com

 

lol alright, thanks for all the help I'm going to order this within the next couple weeks when It comes I'll tell how it goes thanks alot

 

Whatta ya plan on buyin?

 

the Thermaltake Bigwater

 

have a check through gruntville,especially this king of the hill page,it has the swiftech h2o as the best kit

http://www.gruntville.com/kingofthehill.php

 

260 dollars

 

Exactly.....

 

I noticed nobody posted any cons.
Here's one:
liquids/water and electronics Dont mix.

High end gaming cards cost more.

 

I actually have a 300 dollar graphics card
I was talking about about the water cooling system I wanna buy a cost efficient one, and sleepygamer says thermaltake is good, I know it's only one opinion, but he seems pretty sure about it.

 

THERMALTAKE!!!! MWHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA ahem... AHEM... Anyways, ive only got an 80 dollar video card. Poor me eh? lol, it works fine though.

As for water/liquids dont mix thing, actaully they do believe it or not. I read this review where a guy poured water on his CPU, did nothing, all over his mobo. Did NOTHING, on his GPU, Screen flickered then came back. Restarted comp, but it wouldnt go. Waited until next day, ran fine.

 

why would anyone do that, anyways what kind of card do you have for 80 dollars?

 

ATi 9600XT 128mb.... Worth every freakin penny, upgrading from my 5200 128mb... I recently bought a new camera so that ate up 200 bucks... Not like my dad would let me spend that much on a video card anyways.

 

i have a 5500 256mb nvidia

 

I bought the ASETEK Waterchill from a friend for $125, and bought the new universal CPU Waterblock from ASETEK, thru frozencpu.com

Not a bad setup, might I add.

First of all, water/electricity is a bad mix, this is why you use distilled water. Non conductive might I add.

Setup took about an hour to install, start to finish. I'm not too thrilled with the ambient and full load temps, as they don't seem to differ too much from the stock HSF that came with the processor, but there are many different variables that could be changed to lower the temps (water wetter, lower room temps, different radiator placement, etc.)

Specs:
Antec Super Lanboy Case (36C case temp)
AMD 64 3000+ (1800MHz stock) OC'd to 2512~2539MHz (current 280x9) (1.5Vcore) Idle 36C Load 46C
Abit AV8 3rd Eye Mobo
2GB PC2700DDR (downclocked to 200MHz from 333MHz due to limitations of oc)
NVidia 6600GT (OC'd to 590/1100 (GPU Waterblock)) (38C temp)

Temps do fluctuate from time to time (1~3C) which aren't much, and are only because the side panel would be off/on.

 

tekkie, ive got the same case with a p4 3GHZ chip and getting around the same temps with a stock fan - Idle 38C CPU and 40C case temp and about 10C higher on load. But i guess you are overclocking so that makes the difference...

 

you have a 700mhz overclock running at 46c underload thats mighty impressive I can only get my a64 up 400 mhz with an xp90c until prime starts to become unstable,have you ran prime overnight to see if your overclocks completely stable

 

I have run Prime95, SuperPi, and Memtest86, and a few other "burn in" tests for a period of 12 hours, with no errors.

One thing that I did have to do from time to time, was make minor adjustments to the voltages of the CPU, Ram, and the HT, until I found the happy medium without pushing too much heat. I played a bit with the NBV, but it doesn't really make a difference performance wise.

Another thing that I failed to mention, was lowering the HTT from 5 x 200 down to 4 x 200. I could probably push this back up while supplying more voltage, but just seems not to make much difference on my particular setup.

OC'ing the AMD 64

The above link came from overclockersonline.com It's a pretty nice guide to overclocking for those that weren't very familiar with the HTT/HT since it is "relatively" new.

I am in fact still playing with the whole system, to find if there still is more potential for overclocking. Getting ready to purchase more stable "faster" ram so as to stretch the systems legs out a bit more.

 

Update:

For some reason, while playing a bit more with it, I cannot get it to POST with the previous settings. It only seems stable around 265~270MHz on the "FSB" which gives me 2340~2430. Any higher and it will hang, resulting in me pulling the CMOS battery. I will try to lower the HTT more, to see if that will allow me to raise the "FSB" a bit more, and re-achieve the 2.5GHz range stable.

 

The HTT directly affects your memory bandwidth and overall system performance,when you knock your HTT multi down to 4 you work out your new HTT by multiplying your overclocked FSB by 4 in your case 4 x 280 = 1120 this is very high for a HTT I'm suprised you havnt damaged anything,you really need to knock it down to 3.5 x 280 = 980 then try upping your fsb again to get your HTT back up over 1000mhz,you may have to drop your cpu multi 0.5 again also,make sure you have good airflow through the case it essential for overclocking your HTT

My HTT isnt stable over 1050mhz,I have found a sweet spot for my setup 262fsb x 4 = 1048mhz HTT speed a nice 48mhz overclock, my cpu also maxes out at 2.7mhz so I run a cpu multi of 10 giving me 2.62mhz cpu speed

At these ratio's I have everything overclocked to its max,I also have my memory devider set to 4/5 or more accurately 0.83 of my fsb 262mhz = 218 mhz ram speed the limit of my ram in cas 2.5 without making mistakes in prime,this gives me a memory bandwidth in sandra of 6.6gb/s

 

I have a different approach to cooling my puter.

I have a small a/c unit in the window next to my desk. I made a piece of duct & mounted it so that it points in the general direction of the PC, not flowing air directly into it. Wouldn't want any condensation now would we? I made a piece of duct from the back of the machine directing all exhaust outside of the room as well.

System specs:
Chaintech 7NJL6 nForce2 400 Ultra < Piece o' Crap BTW.
AMD Athlon XP 2400+ @ 2205 MHz (15 x 147) Speeze all copper HS with a homemade aluminum funnel for the 80mm fan mounted on it.
Corsair Value Select 1gb 2x512 PC2700
IBM Deskstar 120GXP (120GB, 7200 RPM, Ultra-ATA/100)
old ass cd-rom
LITE-ON DVD SOHD-167T
LITE-ON DVDRW SOHW-1633S
MSI MS-8929 NVIDIA GeForce FX 5900XT (128 MB) @ 495/950
Thermaltake PurePower 420watt
$35 Rosewill case < had to cut a hole in the front of case for the 120mm fan.

Temps right now....
Ambient inside case - 25c
CPU - 34c
MB - 26c
GPU - 36c
HD - 13c

All temps are read threw a Digital Doc 5 & Everest. Same with both.

120mm fan in front
92mm in the back
2x80mm in the PSU.

I've never seen the CPU over 41-42c after hours of BF2 or CoD. Now rendering in 3D Max or Terragen does make it climb a bit more, but nothing serious.

I just used what I had. If I take the side off the case the temps drop alot, but then the noise is an issue.

Just another idea if you have the means.

 

Something I did not see mentioned about Peltiers: You have to power them.
As in power them with a seperate power supply in most cases or they do not have enough cooling to make it worth the effort.
I have run water cooling over Peltier for some time, get really good overclocks. I also had to spend $500 in power supplies to get the darn thing stable. The single Antec 550 seemed fine, but once in a while I got mystery crashes. I hooked up a recording FLuke and found low voltage at times. I added a second Antec 550 just for the Peltier and things were fine for a while. The power supply to the Peltier quit working and I took it back. I then bought two PC power & cooling 500's. Voltage is stable and so is Prime95 for 48 hours straight.
For the money I would say stick to straight water cooling.