How do you setup Push/Pull for Corsair H100?

Alright, so I have looked all over the internet which is annoying the hell out of me how so many people ALWAYS bring up push/pull when talking about the Corsair h100 BUT do not tell you how to place the fans on the thing. ...

So, should my stock fans be placed at the top and sucking the air in or should both of my after market fans be placed on one of side of the radiator and the stock corsair fans on the other side? So, I am guessing one side is pushing while the other is pulling? Do I have this right or is push/pull just short for either you use the rad to push the air in or to pull the air out and not both at the same time. I am really shocked how there is NO one actually asking about this on the internet, and I bet when people search they will find my thread on google and notice how it is the only thread which touches on this topic.

I feel this is not a dumb question to ask because if it was left up to me I would have one side of my fans pushing and the other side pulling . The radiator is 240cm they say and it can fit 4 120mm Fans on it two on the top and two on the bottom so you guys have an Idea.

Here is picture of how someone posted it can look but I am really confused by it. Has any done this at all that can tell me when I need to do exactly or perhaps really damn close to it ... ?


Also check out this Link, there is a guy setting up "Push/Pull" to get kind of an idea, but he still does not explain that process.... -_- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BbH1mhZWRn8&feature=related

 

Hi frankzro.

I'll describe my set up with an H50 Push/Pull and compare it to the drawing.
Antec 900 case with 2 - 120's as intake at the front.
PSU - 80 at bottom rear as exhaust.
2 - GTX 260's at rear as exhaust.
H50 push/pull with 2 - 120's as exhaust.
1 - 200 at top rear as exhaust.
Grill on side with no fan.
I would much rather have a negative pressure (more exhaust) in the case than a positive (more intake).
This trades off the cooler air for the radiator from the outside as opposed to warmer air from the inside.

The drawing set up would creat a dead zone in the center of the case with 6 intakes as opposed to only 3 exhaust and that is counting the vid card fans as full size. Not sure what the PSU is doing in the drawing.
I would reverse the radiator fans to exhaust and put the higher CFM on the outside of the radiator.
You would then have more exhaust capability even though the air would be warmer but it would also flow through more quickly and keep more components cooler overall.
Hope this helps.

 

Nice explanation, this will help not just me but others as well.

I am using the level 10 GT, there is a 200mm Side and there is another 200mm in the front and that front an is supposed to push air on the hard drives while the one on the side is meant for my Mobo and GFX cards ( x2 HD 57770s). Then at the rear there is a 140mm Exhaust fan, OOH and I will be adding another 120mm Fan at the bottom of my case maybe use it as intake? so it will blow straight up and then use the H100 as exhaust and pull the air straight out ?

How bout that?

 

Looking at the specs on the case,
you have front 200 intake, side 200 intake and optional bottom 120 intake, then rear 140 exhaust, top 200 exhaust, PSU and vid cards exhaust.
I would use the H100 as exhaust also to pull the air out as fast as possible.

The case has some very nice cable management features that would aid in keeping air flow real clean through the case. You might want to hold off on the bottom optional fan to see what the rig does with out it temp wise. It may not be needed but then again as much as that case is dollar wise, go for it.

 

The reason that you couldn't find any push/pull info is that it only applies to having a fan pulling air out and one pushing the air into the radiator so for an H-100 you would have 4 fans hooked up, two to push in and two to pull out and it doesn't seem to be built for that possibility like an H50 or H70 are built that way. I had to buy a second fan and 4 longer screws to fit the radiator on my H50. HTH.

 

In the Video I posted, the guy has the long screws, where would I obtain such screws? :hyper

 

Damn it man, I didn't watch the video, I'm so embarrassed!:-o :-D I got my screws at a large local shop with a large stockroom by bringing in a sample but I seem to remember Corsair having them available when I looked there a couple of years ago.

 

For my set up, local hardware store. Cut to proper length and filed ends - DIY. Had to use a washer as screw head was a tad too small for mounting holes in fan.

 

DEEZ?


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Just went to Home DE-pot and Ace Hardware and neither of them carry the screw in black -_-... I want black , I need black :banghead.

Might have to order the screws online... WEAK :zzz

 

WTF, do people have any clue HOW HARD IT IS to find,

6-32 x 1-1/4" Black Oxide Pan Head Phillips Machine Screw

Man people are posting their builds online and not even explaining this at all...

So to whom ever is out there trying to put their push/pull system together just know this...

The screw size and color is almost if not impossible to find in a hardware store... I have no idea how people have left this out because that is odd and a good thing to tell people who want to do this... I found the screws here but no place I have gone seems to offer the screws in a 12 pack -_- give me a break.

Yes I know they are small so thats prolly why they are hard to get in stores... and because they are black...

But you can get them here

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=0148809&ucst=t

or here

http://deepsurplus.com/

 

Just so this helps out everyone, sorry if you are in the UK or Canada cause this will not be much help to you... except for the instructions

Well just to recap on the screw situation, I received them in 2-3 days I believe. I got the screws from http://deepsurplus.com/ - Not too sure of the quality of the screws so I can't tell you guys yet. Just want to let all know that if you use Deepsurplus.com and you are in the US then you are in luck because they provide a USPS shipping for your tiny screws .

DO NOT use Fastenal, the screws can be bought individually which is great and all but Fastenal LOVES to include UPS shipping for a bag of screws... so WTF why buy 10 screws if the shipping is going to be like more then the cost of the product. Now if you have a Fastenal in your city/town and would like to buy directly from the store then go for it... that is IF they have these same types of screws. I went to Fastenal and they were out of stock and guy tried to pull a fast one on me and was going to make me pay 4-5 dollar shipping for 25 screws which cost $2.50 which by the way was a dollar more than I paid at deepsurplus.com so they wanted me to pay the 2.50 plus the 5.00 shipping and have to wait... NO Fastenal ... no... t( - _ -t)

 

I too wound up here because I'm also in the exact same situation. I looked everywhere on the internet for the answer to the question regarding whether or not I'd need additional screws to make the mount and even made posts on the Nvidia and Overclock forums.

I own a Cooler Master HAF X case and want to upgrade my Noctua NH-D14 to a Corsair H100. I saw that same YouTube video and immediately noticed the guy calls them "his" screws. I too want to keep my top two 200mm LED Cooler Master fans in addition to the two fans that come with the H100. So it does turn out that I need t buy these screws you linked in order for me to install the H100 in this fashion?

If so, thanks alot. I'd just ordered the H100 and was planning to make the trip to the hardware store tomorrow but after reading this, I'm going to just order them from that website you linked. You saved me alot of headache. I share that same hatred you hold towards people who don't point out simple things like this to people wanting to make adjustments to their rigs.

 

Glad to help, yeah the screws work fine, I have plenty extra. When you screw in the screws they do hit the fins, but even the stock screws hit the fins on the radiator. But I went over to Corsair to confirm if it was an issue and it is not