New pc build, need advice

So I'm building a budget PC and I need advice.
My needs are: video processing(i'm not trying to make full-feature cinematic presentations here but I don't want to wait three hours to encode a dvd to avi)
and moderate gaming with hopefully, some upgrade options in the future.
I don't need a sound card. I use a USB audio interface by tascam because I like to occasionally record my own music.
My budget for this month is currently at $400. That's the maximum I can spend at this time I believe.
I'm thinking, AMD processor, and Nvidia video card.
Also size is a factor, I'd PREFER a small case(micro-atx fitting) but I'm okay with a mid-tower with room.
Keyboard and mouse is not necessary. Here is a list of things I've thought of that I need to buy:

mother board
power supply
graphics card
harddrive(600 gb -1 tb)
monitor
memory(4 gb)
bluray+dvdburner
cpu(4 or 3 core)
case

If theres a case+power supply option then I want the PSU to be good quality, but I'm okay with a buying a PSU separate.
I'm okay with buying certain parts next month when I have a bit more money. But I'd prefer to have a working system before then.
I do not need any software(already have an O.S) with this build.

 

400 isn't enough to build a pc for your needs imo

I'd save up till you had about 650-700

Thank you for realizing the importance of a good quality power supply.

 

:clap :dood First, let me say "way to go" for including (1) your budget and (2) the intended use! I wish everyone asking for new hardware advice would do that instead of making us guess.

I agree completely with pclover. You can build a computer for $400 but it will not be suitable for your listed needs.

Note the cheapest Blu Ray burner at Newegg is $139 - more than 1/3 your budget already. Of the 94 micro ATX motherboards listed at Newegg, every one has on-board graphics. While on-board has its severe limitations, the better on-board graphics solutions are very good for most users, and if nothing else will carry you over until budget permits installing a card. "Moderate gaming" with the on-board may not be so good, however. You say you want expansion/upgrade options but also prefer micro ATX. Your upgrade options will be limited by both the micro ATX motherboard, and the micro ATX case. Therefore I recommend you shoot for a mid tower and full ATX motherboard to ensure you have plenty of upgrade options.

I agree again that you are wise to demand a quality PSU, but sadly many included with cases, even from the major case makers, are not adequate. They may or may not be "quality" supplies, but often do not have adequate power to support current and future demands. Below is my canned text on selecting a PSU and I talk a bit about included PSUs.

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Use the eXtreme PSU Calculator Lite to determine your minimum power supply unit (PSU) requirements. Plug in all the hardware you think you might have in 2 or 3 years (extra drives, bigger or 2nd video card, more RAM, etc.). Be sure to read and heed the notes at the bottom of the page. I recommend setting Capacitor Aging to 30%, and if you participate in distributive computing projects (e.g. BOINC or Folding@Home) or extreme 3D animated gaming, I recommend setting both TDP and system load to 100%. These steps ensure the supply has adequate head room for stress free (and perhaps quieter) operation, and future hardware demands. Research your video card and pay particular attention to the power supply requirements for your card listed on your video card maker's website. If not listed, check a comparable card (same graphics engine and RAM) from a different maker. The key specifications, in order of importance are:

1. Current (amperage or amps) on the +12V rail,
2. Efficiency,
3. Total wattage.

Don’t try to save a few dollars by getting a cheap supply! Digital electronics, including CPUs, RAM, and today's advanced graphics cards, need clean, stable power. A good, well chosen supply will provide years of service and upgrade wiggle room. Look for power supply brands listed under the "Good" column of PC Mechanic's PSU Reference List. Note that some case retailers “toss in” a generic or inadequate PSU just to make the case sale. Be prepared to “toss out” that supply for a good one with sufficient power.

Most PSUs have an efficiency rating of around 70%. This means for every 100 watts of power a PSU draws from the wall, only 70 watts is delivered to the motherboard, with the rest wasted in the form of heat. The best supplies are 85 to 90% efficient, and as expected, cost more. I strongly recommend you pick a quality supply with an efficiency rating equal to or greater than 80%. Look for 80 Plus - EnergyStar Compliant labels.

Too big of a PSU hurts nothing but your budget. Your computer will draw from the PSU only what it needs, not what the PSU is capable of delivering. If a computer needs 300 watts it will draw 300 watts regardless if the PSU is a 350W, 650W, or 1000W PSU. In turn, the PSU, regardless its size will draw from the wall only what it needs to support the computer. In this example, it will draw 300 watts, plus another 45 – 90 watts, depending on the PSU’s inefficiency.

As noted, the eXtreme Calculator determines the minimum requirements. If the calculator (with the changes I suggested) recommends a 400 watt minimum, a quality 400W supply will serve you just fine. But a quality 550W – 600W supply will have, among other things, larger heat sinks to dissipate potentially more heat. It might have a larger fan too. The 400W supply will run most of the time closer to capacity, while the larger supply will be loafing along, rarely breaking a sweat. To help the smaller heat sinks get rid of the wasted 80 watts (20% of 400) of heat, the fan in the 400W supply may need to run full speed, while the fan in the larger supply, with bigger sinks just loafs along too – but in near silence.

Don't forget to budget for a good UPS with AVR (automatic voltage regulation). Surge and spike protectors are inadequate.