Budget gaming build help

Going to be buying and building a new gaming PC VERY SOON. I am on a pretty tight budget with this build and it will actually be my first ever "ground up" build. I have been researching and lined up what I think is a pretty decent build for my price range.

I have built a Wishlist on Newegg to make it easy to view all the components I have put together for this build here is the link to it.

http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx?WishListNumber=24048727

I would like to get at least a few knowledgeable responses on it...

• Does this look like a solid budget gaming build?
• Will all these components be able to run together?
• Should I be able to play all past, modern and upcoming games for the next year or so (I know it wont max some games obviously...)?
• If I were to overclock the CPU to say, 3.8Ghz should I get an aftermarket cooler? Could I get some recommendations on good low priced coolers?
• Are there any extra cables or connectors I need to buy?

Not looking to raise the price anywhere unless its really needed but if there is anywhere I could save a few bucks without sacrificing performance I would love to know.

 

I had not stumbled across that PSU when I was putting this build together, it has about the same reviews almost better and its about $50.00 cheaper. I loose 50W and the plus side of having a modular PSU but then again I believe 600W is more then enough to power this system and I shall fight the cables into submission. So thanks for saving me $50.00

I already have a 500GB WD that I plan on throwing in it, just gonna use the SSD for OS and certain program files. Might throw one or two games on it as well.

Thanks for the reply!

 

A couple comments.

4Gb of RAM WILL bottleneck your computer. With a dual-channel motherboard, I would urge you get 2 x 4Gb for 8Gb total. For just $10 more (with the current $10 rebate), you can get the same RAM, but 8Gb.

Not everyone agrees there's a plus side to modular PSUs. For the record, I am not a fan of modular PSUs. They allow for a tidier interior but modular supplies:

• Cost more,
• Provide no performance advantages for the extra costs,
• Consist of many more parts and therefore greater potential for failure/defects,
• Any and every connector, regardless the quality of the connector adds resistance in the circuit and therefore decreases efficiency (the energy lost in the form of heat),
• Exposed/unused connections collect dirt and dust degrading the mechanical connection essential for good electrical connection,
• Connectors wear or be damaged, affecting electrical connectivity,
• Unused cables must be stored somewhere, potentially for years without getting lost or damaged,
• The ATX Form Factor Standard for Power Supplies does not define the design or configuration of the modular connectors used, therefore makers often use their own proprietary design, thus:
  • Modular cables from different PSUs may not be compatible or interchangeable,
  • Storing different sets of cables from several modular PSUs can be a burden,
  • Replacing lost proprietary cables may be expensive; if possible at all.

Sadly then, to avoid losing the extra cables and to prevent damage or mixing brands, users toss the spare cables in the bottom of the case where they collect dust and don’t look tidy anymore. So a case that offers better cable management and a wired PSU may be something to consider.

Note I am not saying modular PSUs are inferior in quality or performance. But, because a modular supply is MUCH more complex, with many more parts than a hard-wired equivalent PSU, they have a much greater potential to disappoint. Therefore, if you do not need a SFF (small form-factor) case, a nice wide, mid-tower case will provide plenty of room to route unused cables behind the motherboard, or up in an unused drive bay. It is the case’s responsibility, after all, to provide the necessary front-to-back air flow through the case. Therefore, it is the case’s responsibility to facilitate good cable management to minimize impacting that desired flow.

I am all for good cable management as that ultimately affects (often significantly) cooling. But you can "dress-up" (route and tie-back) your cables to stay out of the air flow and still have a "tidy" looking interior.

The Rosewill case provides excellent cooling, but I will never buy a case again that does not have removable, washable air filters. I like the Antec Three Hundred. It is reasonably priced, very well built, sturdy, "true" (exactly 90° bends), lots of large (120mm or larger) fan support, not flashy, plus it has removable, washable air filters. And I like a case to sit quietly and discretely off to the side and not draw attention to itself. Therefore, I don't like fancy facades that go out of style, or flashy bright lights that do nothing for performance, consume some power, generate some heat, and do nothing for performance - worth repeating. After all, I tend to pay attention to what's on my monitors, and not what my case is doing.

Also worth considering the Three Hundred Two. Still a mid-tower but a nice 9 inches wide. And the Nine Hundred is worth looking at too. And yes, I like Antec cases.

I would recommend the OS and hardware drivers only, and all your programs on the HD. With lots of RAM, and after pre and superfetch have learned your habits, the HD will be quick enough. If you want to use your SSD for other programs too, I would get a bigger SSD. Let Windows (and its Page File) have that 64Gb for itself.

Also, I don't see an operating system listed. A common mistake is some users assume they can use their old Windows license on a new computer. Understand only a "boxed" full Retail license can be transferred to a new computer (or upgraded motherboard). It is illegal to use an OEM license that came with or was purchased for one computer on another computer. A disk “branded” with a computer maker’s brand name, or is labeled with “OEM/System Builder”, “Upgrade”, “Academic Edition”, or "For Distribution with a new PC only", is not transferable to a new PC (or upgraded motherboard) under any circumstances. These OEM licenses are inextricably tied to the "original equipment". So if that is the case, I recommend 64-bit Windows 7 or one of the many free Linux alternatives. Just ensure it is 64-bit since you have decided to get 8Gb of RAM.

Sorry for the long post - once I start typing....

 

No worries I enjoyed the read, I actually have had several friends tell me to with 8GB of RAM as well which after hearing several opinions I have decided to go for it, this RAM in particular. It was a little bit more pricey but I hear nothing but great things about it.

Really I am undecided on the case at this point, the only thing that even drew me to the Rosewill Challenger case was the three 120mm fans that it comes with. This Antec 300 case looks really nice and has pretty much the exact same setup as the Rosewill except the included front 120mm but the Antec has a 140mm top exhaust so I guess its an even trade considering I can buy a 120mm front fan for around 5 bucks. I might go with the Antec after I checkout some reviews on it because TBH I don't want any LEDS in my case.

I am gonna buy a new copy of Windows 7, just didn't put it on the build list.

Thanks for the reply.

 

That is a nice little tool. According to it, I will be using right at 500W almost so it looks like this PSU will work perfect for me and will be good encase I make any upgrades, I will have a little extra wattage to play with.

I am pretty excited to build it, it will be my first ever COMPLETE build. I just hope I don't screw anything up or get any DOA parts :-D

 

For an aftermarket CPU cooler scan down to the gold awarded products then read the review of each,a few years ago it would be easy to recommend one as there were only a few I'd usually recommend the best Thermalright cooler you can afford.

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/awards

Consider this power supply as an alternative,5 more amps on the 12v,all the same features for $10 less only difference I can see on the face of it are no lights.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139020

I have a corsair TX950 and its sweet EDIT I also agree with Digerati especially since your on a budget,modular PSU's aren't all they're cracked up to be,light's and modular definitely fit into the 'bells and whistles' category,not the kind of thing you want to waste money on when aiming for price/performance.

 

One thing i don't like are them lead light fans i think they are a waste of power they may look cool but they take up juice.No way to turn them off unless you shut off the computer it self.

 

Not true golden, my pc has 3 led lit fans, with a selectable on off switch. The power change for led's on fans is so minor, that unless your on battery it shouldn't matter. Anyhow, just wanted to point out not all led light fans are always turned on, but many offer selectable on/off on the led lighting.

 

Well some of the fans don't turn off the lead lights unless you turn of the computer your self

 

Well finally after hours of reading reviews, researching parts and talking to friends and other people I got my final build selected. Going to be placing the order.

I changed up a lot of the parts from the initial build (Case, PSU, RAM, HDD)

Final specs encase nobody wants to go view the build list in the OP.

Case: Antec 300 Illusion Mid-Tower (Four fans included)

• 2 120mm front intake's, 3 speed control.
• 1 140mm top exhaust.
• 1 120mm rear exhaust, 2 speed control.

PSU: Corsair Gaming Series GS600 600W
Motherboard: ASUS M5A97 AMD 970
CPU: AMD Phenom II X4 965 Black Edition 3.4Ghz
RAM: Kingston HyperX Blue 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3 1600
GPU: Radeon HD 7770 Ghz Edition
Hard Drive: Western Digital Caviar Blue 500GB 7200 RPM
Optical Drive: LITE-ON DVD/CD Burner

Build costs comes in right around $680.00 USD which I am thrilled with, Was not to happy having to spending over $700.00

I decided to ditch the SSD all together, after really reading up on them for sometime I decided I didn't really need or want one. Sure they are nice to have but I figured I would just save myself $120.00 dollars and go with ONE much larger standard HDD and save myself a ton of money. I might get one in the future though, who knows.

I switched up my case and PSU thanks to several people from this thread, going to be getting a much better case with greater air flow then my original choice and I got a larger PSU for $50.00 dollars less. So thanks to you guys who made those reccomendations.

Decided to go with the new Radeon HD 7770 for my GPU, I am on budget and this card looks like it is the best bang for the buck right now from the reviews I have watched/read plus its new generation, packed with awesome tech and features and it gets great performance in all off today's modern games.

Gonna hold off on an aftermarket cooler, if I do overclock the CPU I only plan on taking it up to 3.8Ghz and the stock cooler for Phenom II X4 is said to manage this slight overclock just fine. Might not even overclock though.

Why is everyone hating on the LEDS? All the parts in this build are black and blue so I think the blue LEDS will make a really nice touch :cool

Thanks again for the advice everyone.

 

I would also recommend you dont get a blue drive, instead get the black, way better performance then the blue series, unless thats just gonna be your secondary storage drive.

 

Just understand if your new CPU comes packaged with a supplied OEM cooler, you void the warranty if you use an aftermarket cooler. This is easly seen in both the Intel and AMD warranties booklets that come with the CPUs or on their CPU warranty webpages. The AMD CPU Warranty makes it crystal clear:

"This Limited Warranty shall be null and void if the AMD microprocessor which is the subject of this Limited Warranty is used with any heatsink/fan other than the one provided herewith."​

This may not be a concern to many enthusiasts, but it is something everyone needs to be aware of.

I note too that neither AMD nor Intel want to replace the cooler or the CPU during the warranty period so both companies provide EXCELLENT coolers perfectly capable of providing more than adequate cooling - even under moderate overclocking (though it should be noted that overclocking voids the warranties too).

Note that most aftermarket coolers are warrantied for just 1 year (not 3 like the OEMs) and none will cover damage to the CPU, should something fail.

Finally, it is important to remember it is the cases responsibility to provide the necessary cool air flow through the case. The CPU cooler just needs to toss the CPU's heat up into that flow so it can move on out.