New motherboard not displaying anything???

So, I bought a new G41-M7 motherboard from Biostar to replace the fried motherboard that came with a computer. I installed this new board, installed 1 stick of 1GB RAM from the old motherboard (made sure it took it so it should be working) into the A1 slot. I set the CMOS jumpers to 1-2Closed which is the boards default (came in 2-3closed). Only thing I didn't do was install the CPU because I have yet to pick up heat sink grease, but I wanted to make sure that the computer is going to be running properally (didn't want to fry the CPU).

When I power on the computer, the fans spin and everything lights up however nothing appears on the screen. I'm using onboard graphics so the issues is not with using a different GPU.

So, any ideas? I really don't think I was at fault because I was using a ESD wristband and handled all the components with care.

 

Running a cpu with no thermal paste is a very bad idea

IT could also be a faulty motherboard.

No beeps?

 

Very, Very bad idea, the thing could overheat in seconds!

I would also like to know if you get any beeps upon boot?

 

I think the OP has NOT installed the cpu

So in essence, the OP is saying that he started his rig without the cpu and

Perhaps I too have misunderstood what was the OP was trying to say.

Good Luck

 

Yeah, he never said he was running without thermal interface materials.

@fattwinkie - the motherboard will not boot without a CPU installed.

 

Without the cpu installed the mobo will beep (assuming speaker connected) to indicate this fact and in someway confirms that the mobo is not doa.

Good Luck

 

My description? Did I describe something?

I merely said the motherboard will not boot without a CPU. Perhaps I should have said you need a CPU to boot, but I thought that was clear. My apologies if not.

Judging by most of the responses, I don't think that's true at all as it would appear it has not been obvious to everyone what Fattwinkie was asking. His concern was,

Additionally, regarding thermal paste, he clearly said,

That clearly suggests to me that Fattwinkie is fully aware of the need for thermal paste as he is clearly (and wisely) unwilling to test the system without it. Yet 3 responders, including you with a big video tutorial, responded as though he was about to. That's baffling, to me anyway. Good tutorial, BTW - I just don't think it follows Fattwinkie's topic, or else I would have linked to my own canned text on TIM.
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But just in case my response was baffling, I have found that many new hardware tinkerers don't realize that ALL motherboards need at least a CPU and RAM installed to boot the motherboard through and past POST - including into the BIOS Setup Menu. A graphics solution too is nice, so you can see the process through until it stops at no boot disk is found. And yes, a connected case or button speaker can be very informative, if you know the code. Perhaps instead of saying "@fattwinkie - the motherboard will not boot without a CPU installed.", I should have said, "@fattwinkie - Motherboards do not have their own central processors or RAM. They need and use the CPU and system RAM to process the current and seek out the next task stored in the BIOS and CMOS chips. So you need at least the CPU (with properly installed HSF) and 1 stick of RAM, and preferably a monitor attached to get an idea if a motherboard is good or not." From there, you should see the graphics splash screen and be able to watch POST. The system will halt when no boot disk is found. If you don't get that far, something is wrong and we will need to know where it stops."

 

So, I just want to be clear. Will running the motherboard without a CPU cause any damage to the board or other components? I just got this motherboard and I really don't want to have to send it back because of something that went wrong.

 

Assuming everything is functioning properly (in particular, the power supply), and you take care to handle the devices properly, no banging into stuff, forcing connections, and avoid any static discharge damage, no damage should occur.

I think you should wait until you have all your materials on hand before proceeding. Your motherboard manual should have some good tips on installations too that you can read up on to get familiar.

 

Well, I thank you all for your information you have given me. I'll let you guys all know the outcome as soon as I get a hold of some thermal paste to put on my CPU. I'm not doing anything till I have a tube of that stuff, lol.

 

I would suggest buying some Arctic Silver 5 instead of the cheap thermal paste

 

Alright so here's the update for my problem.

I installed the CPU, put the right amount of paste on the top of it, and I installed the heat sink/fan. I buttoned down all the screws (not too tight) and made sure the RAM was seated correctly. Here is where I'm totally lost.

I have only the CPU, RAM, CPU fan, and power plugged in. When I push the power button, NOTHING HAPPENS. Like nothing powers on, no fans spin, no beeps. I decided to reset CMOS and I put the jumper on the clear BIOS settings but I turned it on by accident while it was on clear CMOS and everything turns on and runs but nothing is still displayed on the screen.

Does anyone know what is going on?

 

Would lead me to think it's a power supply issue. I would check all cables and make sure you didn't bump anything as I've done that before. Unplug all cables and re plug them back in. If it still doesn't work it could be a bad PSU since the mobo powered on once before.

 

Ummm, sorry but that is not correct. The BIOS is NOT stored on the CMOS chip. The BIOS is a program, a "basic set or system of input/output" instructions and the BIOS program is stored (burned) into the BIOS chip, a firmware device, typically an EEPROM IC or the like. Yes, the BIOS is changed by flashing (reprogramming) the device, but that has nothing to do with the CMOS chip. PROM devices, unlike CMOS devices, retain their programming, even if all power is removed - this is important to remember, and THE PRIMARY distinction between PROM can CMOS memory devices.

CMOS devices, which have been around a lot longer than personal computers, are discrete (separate) solid state memory devices with a special property unlike other memory devices. It is important to understand this special property; CMOS devices ONLY retain their programming/data as long as the specified "holding voltage" is present on the necessary pins of the CMOS device. Once that voltage is removed, the CMOS device almost instantly (just a couple milliseconds - if no capacitors are holding the charge) forgets all the data it had previously stored within. And this is done, NOT by flashing, but by simply removing that holding voltage - either by removing the motherboard battery for a few seconds, or shorting the battery's voltage to ground (Earth) by shorting together the two Clear CMOS reset pins.

The CMOS is used to store, NOT the BIOS, but changes to the defaults established by the BIOS. The CMOS is used to store your drive characteristics, date and time, boot order, and other changes and customizations you the user make to allow the attached hardware devices to communicate with the motherboard, in the manner you want. The BIOS chip and the CMOS chip work together, but are definitely separate devices.

So once again, the BIOS is stored on an entirely different hardware device than the CMOS. To alter the BIOS, you must flash. To alter the CMOS, simply remove the power and revert back to the BIOS defaults, or simply enter the BIOS Setup menu and make the changes.

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I agree to check the PSU, but I don't recommend using a voltmeter, unless you are a qualified technician and know what you are doing. Below is my canned text on testing PSUs, with my concerns about using a multimeter.

To properly and conclusively test a power supply unit (PSU), it must be tested under various realistic "loads" then analyzed for excessive ripple and other anomalies. This is done by a qualified technician using an oscilloscope or power analyzer - sophisticated (and expensive) electronic test equipment requiring special training to operate, and a basic knowledge of electronics theory to understand the results. Therefore, conclusively testing a power supply is done in properly equipped electronic repair facilities.

Fortunately, there are other options that are almost as good. I keep a FrozenCPU Ultimate PSU Tester in my tool bag when I am "in the field" and don't have a good spare power supply to swap in. While not a certain test, they are better than nothing. The advantage of this model is that it has an LCD readout of the voltage. With an actual voltage readout, you have a better chance of detecting a "failing" PSU, or one barely within specified ATX Form Factor Standard tolerances. Lesser models use LEDs to indicate the voltage is just within some "range". These are less informative, considerably cheaper, but still useful for detecting PSUs that have already "failed". Newegg has several testers to choose from. All these testers contain a "dummy load" to fool the PSU into thinking it is connected to a motherboard, and therefore allows the PSU to power on, if able, without being attached to a motherboard - great for testing fans, but again, it is not a true load or suitable for conclusive testing.

As mentioned, swapping in a known good supply is a tried and trued method of troubleshooting used for years, even by pros. Remove the "suspect" part and replace with a "known good" part and see if the problem goes away.

I do not recommend using a multimeter to test power supplies. To do it properly, that is, under a realistic load, the voltages on all the pins must be measured while the PSU is attached to the motherboard and the computer powered on. This requires poking (with some considerable force) two hard and sharp, highly conductive meter probes into the main power connector, deep in the heart of the computer. One tiny slip can destroy the motherboard, and everything plugged into it. It is not worth the risk considering most multimeters, like plug-in testers, do not measure, or reveal any unwanted and potentially disruptive AC components to the DC voltages.

Note the required voltage tolerance ranges:

http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z181/Digerati_Bill/One-Time%20Upload/PSUTolerances.jpg​

And remember, anything that plugs into the wall can kill. Do not open the power supply's case unless you are a qualified electronics technician. There are NO user serviceable parts inside a power supply.
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