PC Powers off At Windows Logo - No Warning

Please assist. My desktop pc shuts down abruptly after the windows logo "starting windows" I was able to get to safe mode once but not any more. I ran virus scan while there (malware bytes and windows safety scanner) No virus found.

I did memtest86 - test good
western digital hard ware check - hard disk good
chkdisk - good

I swapped out the cdrom and power supply from another pc.

I assumed this must be a file structure issue so I attempted Win Xp Pro repair but would not work in safe mode/would not load in normal due to shut down.

I attempted to upgrade to windows 7 ultimate - got mostly thru but shut down. Not sure if I have a full o/s installed or not now. PC shuts down as soon as windows logo comes up.

Heatsink is warm to touch. I've cleaned fans. Capacitors look good - no puffys. I've exhuasted the few skills I have. What could this be? Processor, motherboard?

Bios health check says:
Dimm Volt - 1.8 v
CPU TControl - 40 degrees C
CPU Fan speed - 950 rpm
System Fan - 2014 rpm
CPU Vcore 1.26 V

Any help is appreciated.

 

You've checked just about everything.

Even though the memtest came out ok, I would still try booting with just one module. So if you have two modules try each individually in the first slot then if still no luck try them individually in the second slot with the first slot empty.

You could also try a different data cable for the HD if you have one around. (I doubt this is the cause but if you have one lying around it can't hurt to rule it out.)

 

Changed Ribbon from HD to motherboard - no change
1gb stick RAM in DIMM1 / DIMM2 vacant- no change
1gb stick RAM in DIMM2 / DIMM1 vacan - no change

removed heat sink - cleaned fan, reseated chip. Very little lubricant between chip and heatsink though temp still at 40 degrees.

Could processor be bad or MthrBoard? I am not a seasoned Pro - just a tinker with better than novice skills.

Really appreciate the help

 

I'm not all that seasoned with hardware either. I just tinker as well.

It seems to be shutting down under load. Starting Windows is when the real number crunching begins and the system has to do some real work.

When it shuts down does it completely power down--everything goes off including fans?

 

Even though the hard drive tests came back OK, my thought would be to try a fresh Windows install (whatever your original version was) on a different hard drive. If it boots up OK, disable any power saving options and do a "burn in" by letting it run overnight (it's OK to shut the monitor off manually). If nothing tanks, it would indicate your board and CPU are OK

If this passes, try the Win 7 upgrade on the fresh install. If it fails, you may have a damaged or defective upgrade disc. If it takes the upgrade OK, go to CONTROL PANEL>SYSTEM and verify all the device drivers are in place (no red "X" or yellow "?" beside any of them). Once done, repeat the 12 hour "burn in" (constant on) test.

If everything works at this point, I would keep this second (new) drive for booting and attempt to recover/move the data from the old drive to it. Once done, I would run a long test with WD Data Lifeguard on the orig. hard drive - on more than one occasion a "long" test has caught major issues with a drive that both chkdsk and "quick" scans with programs like Data Lifeguard missed.

Hope this helps.

 

@Sach2 - yes - it completely powers off. Instant off. No graceful shutdown. I notice when I attempt to safe mode it will run while all files are loaded and shuts off at drivers.bin or cab. An during windows install as if it doesn't want me to load anything in.

@GMan863 - I thought about a hard drive replacement. I guess this is the next logical and least expensive approach??

Thanks to both of you for your input.

 

You know for sure the second PSU is good and adequate power for the PC?

I guess one thing you could try is to download a Live Linux Cd and boot up with that. See if you can play a video which uses some CPU and RAM. Linux Mint is a good one for Windows users. You can write the ISO to a CD or an empty USB thumb drive. If you want to try that and need help let me know. Not really very difficult.

 

@Sach2 - I had that thought to since it was from and old machine I use for parts. Whats your gut say, psu, ram or hd?

 

My gut says PSU but I can't be sure. A bad file system or faulty HD should cause a restart not a shutdown. Bad RAM could cause a shutdown but I just haven't had enough RAM problems to say for sure. From my experience RAM doesn't go bad as easily as forums would make you think.

A bad CPU could cause a shutdown but I have never had one go bad so I have never seen it happen. I just don't know if a CPU can work partially.

It seems to me that everything works ok at first. The motherboard lets the memory and CPU go forward and find the HD and boot from it and then Windows starts and stresses the machine and something stops working and shuts things down.

It seems like RAM or power to me. I think the one RAM at a time rules out RAM. Again, not a hardware expert, just from what I have seen. Some of the hardware guys might see this thread after the weekend and see something I have missed.

As far as HD goes you ran the long test and swapped cables so I just can't see how that can shut down the whole computer. Maybe that could happen but I have never seen it.

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I'd try Linux. Only costs a large download and a blank CD. Or if you have an empty USB flash drive just the download time. Running off CD or USB should use plenty of CPU, RAM and power during the loading up process without involving the HD. If it runs then probably not the HD or filesystem causing the problem.

 

I just want to add that gman863 works with more computers than I do so his HD advice is sound and if he thinks a bad HD could be the problem keep that in mind. I'm just trying to work with what you have on hand.

A Linux disc would not be used to install Linux but run the OS directly off the CD for testing purposes to see if the computer can handle the stress of loading the OS not installing it.

 

Thanks SACH2. I will pursue the psu and hd options tomorrow. I'll post how I made out.

 

I appreciate you both immensely. Today I did the following:
Replace power supply (new) - no change
Replace 1G RAM (new) tried in both slots separately - No change
Reseated cpu and heatsink to insure proper thermal paste adhesion - no change
Replace new Hard drive - system would not stay up long enough to load o/s.

At this point I can only assume I have a board or a processor issue.
Processor is AMD 64x2.

Do chips go bad? Or am I correct to assume the board is fried?

Thanks so much again for both your guidance.

 

Unless sach2 or someone else has an idea we haven't tried yet, it appears we're down to an issue with either the motherboard and/or CPU.

Please post specifics on the PC that died and we can try and guide you to a solution (you may be able to reuse some of your old parts and - depending on the store policy - possibly return the items that didn't solve the problem).

• PC Brand & Model (HP, Dell, custom built, etc.).
• Version of Windows (if a Dell, HP, etc., is the CD marked with the PC mfr's name or just marked "Microsoft"?).
• Type of memory (DDR, DDR2) and capacity (512MB, 1GB) of each stick.
• Model of AMD processor.
• Size, age and type of old hard drive - IDE (80 pin) or SATA?
• How many CD/DVD drives - IDE or SATA?

​

I know this sounds like a lot. I'm just trying to figure out what old parts are worth "recycling" when you replace the motherboard and/or CPU.

 

Thanks Gman863. Our thinking is aligned. Here's what I know:

Custom built PC
Originally w/Win XP but attempted upgrade to Win7 during troubleshooting. Not certain what took as can't get into windows. Looks like 7.
2 DIMM Slots on board DDR2 800s. 1 gb installed
AMD athlon 64x2 4200 AM2 Processor chip.
IDE Western Digitil WD400 40gb - swaped for new WD800 80gb
1 IDE CD-RW/DVD-RW
MOBO is ABIT NF-M2s v.1.0 ATA 133

I found an identical factory refurbished in box mother board on ebay 40$

Wondering if I should swap board 1st before expense of new processor chip? There are no signs of burn on either - no funny odor from Chip or Chipset.

Ohh - one more thing. After reseating cpu/heatsink with thermal paste the heat sink is very cool to the touch. System temp idle at 30 degrees C. Is this okay or should the
Heatsink be warm? Its a big ole heat sink too.

Thanks again for all the guidance.

 

I would think that was the best way to go, before considering cpu- but AMD motherboard might be found to suit your present parts in your system- you may be able to find a compatable NEW board on somewhere like newegg that will take your AMD cpu, as gman 63 is trying to guide you- and it may be a later version- they can be found reasonable, rather than keeping the Abit board, unless you particularly like it.
Lower temperature is good!, by the way

 

Before you buy a new board, try doing a fresh reinstall of XP. If the system boots up in XP, it all but knocks out the board and/or CPU as the problem. If XP works but 7 won't install, go to the motherboard mfr's web support site and be sure you have the latest version of the BIOS installed on the board - if not, follow the mfr's. instructions on downloading and upgrading it. (Timesaver tip: If the old 40GB drive is working OK, do the fresh XP install on it.)

While XP is loaded, go to Microsoft.com and run the Windows 7 Compatibility Test. If one or more on-board drivers are not compatible, you may have to upgrade/replace the motherboard (see below).

Does XP boot up OK? If so, now try a fresh install of Windows 7 on the new 80GB drive (Remember: an upgrade from XP to 7 requires a fresh install. If your copy of 7 is an "upgrade" license, you still do a fresh install and enter your old XP license code when prompted as proof of upgrade eligibility).

Only 1GB of memory installed may be an issue in booting. Windows 7 (Premium, Professional or Ultimate) requires at least 2GB of memory to run properly.

Some motherboards are picky on specific brands/models of memory. If you have 1GB of brand "X" installed in slot "A", brand "Y" installed in the second slot may or may not work. When adding more memory...

1. Check the motherboard specs for the maximum RAM stick size (1GB, 2GB) supported per slot.
2. Have at least 2GB of memory installed before trying Win 7 again.
3. The motherboard mfr. support page may also have a list of "approved" (tested) memory for the board. If you can't find an exact match, I've found that Crucial and A-Data tend to be more compatible. Avoid "gaming" memory; stick with the basics.
4. Do your memory testing in XP - download MemTest from the MajorGeeks download section and test it throughly before re-attempting the upgrade to Windows 7. By using the old drive for a fresh XP install and the new drive for the Win 7 install, you can swap cables/versions without a reinstall if a glitch pops up.

Don't waste your money on something this old. You can get a decent AM2/AM2+/AM3 socket board that can use your existing processor and give you some room for upgrades later on. If you end up having to replace the board, look at something like:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131613

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128424

As for the CPU temp, anything below 60-65C is a non-issue.

Sorry for being so long-winded. I'd rather give too much info than not enough.

 

Ok, try boot an Linux live CD. Does the system boot and run?

I had something like this happen to a system, it would get to the XP loading screen and restart, no bluescreen nothing. It was a bios setting for the SATA because after I switched it to ATA it booted fine.

 

Gman - the plot thickens.
I got that refurb board (too late when you'd advised me otherwise, had already bidded) but I think I blew one of the capacitors on it when I powered up. Got a pop and the capacitor looks funny. After pulling the old board I could better see a few capacitors were puffy on it. So I think I'm getting close. Just made a dumb move along the way I guess.

Installed with both ram sticks and the new 80gb HD and successfully completed the Win7 Ultimate full install on the new HD.

System will run longer , up to 30 mins or more but eventually - shuts down abruptly. System temp idle at 31degrees C

Can the capacitor be replaced or should I just go with one of the new boards as you suggested?

I really appreciate all the help from everyone.
Many thanks from the novice here.

 

Thanks Foogoo,
I can boot to win7 after I swapped the mobo and even run for a bit before she just shuts down. I think I damaged the board, my bad. But at least this may be the smoking gun.

Sach suggested the linux idea earlier, hadn't gotten to that yet. (not a savvy as I sound, just more frugal than most novice I guess).

Let's see what happens next.

Thanks all.

 

On the board that works (for 30 minutes, anyway) did you run MemTest to verify the memory is OK?

If so, I'd cut my losses and get one of the new boards (see my previous post). Keep in mind that, when you install a new (different model) motherboard you will have to do a fresh install of Windows.

As for the eBay board, did the seller offer a return policy? Even if it was "no returns", I would still contact the seller, politely describe what happened and ask if you can work something out with them (even a partial refund). As an occasional eBay seller, I do my best to keep buyers happy even if it means bending my terms of sale in their favor. Since bad feedback can hurt future sales, most sellers will worth with you. Good luck.

 

Hello I've new here and came across this thread. I had the same problem on my rig and what fixed it for me was re-flashing the BIOS, then clearing CMOS. I'm not sure if you've tried that yet, but would be worth a shot.

 

Seller agreed to replace. Bad capacitors known issue with board. Capacitor blew at power up. More to come once replacement received.

Thanks for all the support.

 

Yes - its on my list. I began to attempt this but am having trouble creating a bootable cd with the new bios version.

Any clue how to make one? The bios update is not an image. Just regular files zipped up.

Thanks.

 

Glad to hear you worked things out with the seller.

Keep us posted once the replacement board arrives.

 

New board received and installed successfully this go. No blown capacitors. Machine ran 3 hours before it shut down abruptly on its own.

I think I need to upgrade the bios but am having trouble creating a bootable cd. The bios upgrade is a zip file and not an image file.

Any clue on this? Or other suggestions. I will also run the memtest86 diagnostics again. For now the temp has not exceeded 34 degrees c.

Thanks for any help. Growing weary now....

 

I'm not sure after three boards if you really want to mess with the BIOS. Is your zip file named m613z19.zip? Or is it a different bios version?

Which version are you running now?

 

Hi Sach2 -
initial bios was m613z16.zip. I was able to successfully update the bios to m613z19.zip using a tool from the board manufacturer called "flashmenu". Seems like the machine shuts down even faster now. I reverted back to m613z17.zip and am considering going back to the original version.

Reran memtest86 still with excellent results. I am becoming deeply frustrated with the issue now.

Maybe board is still bad. Looks like seller just replaced blown capacitor and resent the same board. arrrgggghhhhhhh.

Problem still exist.
Powersupply checks good
Hard drive replaced/Win7 Ultimate
2GB ram - 1gb stick new
Chip checks good - no bent pins/no bad odors/no burn marks on AM2 chipset

Any other clues from anybody? I am not linux savy at all, sorry. And have just about exhausted my software/hardware skills. Feeling a bit inadequate now....:-o

 

I'd say go ahead and try the Linux CD. Linux Mint has media players and such installed that would let you test how it runs under some load.

You don't have to know anything about Linux to run the CD; the desktop looks just like Windows with a Start button and list of programs. If it doesn't shut down under Linux then it should be a software/driver issue.

Just download Linux Mint ISO and burn it to CD using imgburn's "Write Image File to Disc" option. Then boot from the CD. Don't choose install as you want to run off the CD.

Try to play a few video files or a DVD and see if the PC shuts down.

******
Does that board have two IDE slots on the motherboard or just one? If only one does it make a difference to have the CDROM disconnected under Windows?

 

1 IDE and 1 FDDI (not in use) ribbon connects to IDE, then HD, then cd/dvd drive.

Is there a way to identify the shutdown cause via a perf log or event viewer? Win7 is installed fresh on a new hd, system runs anywhere from a few mins to a few hours before the shutdown.

Thanks again for all the advice. I know this is trying...