Want opinions on motherboard and dual core CPU, please

I'm trying to pick out a CPU and motherboard for my first build.

I've decided on an Intel Core i3-4130 Haswell processor.
It's not the absolute best dual-core but it's pretty good and I don't need a quad-core for the stuff that I do.

Looking at Micro ATX boards with the H87 chipset, it's come down to two choices.

• GIGABYTE GA-H87M-D3H
• ASRock H87M

They both look good but I think the Gigabyte is better and they are very close in price, especially with free shipping
available for the Gigabyte.

I'd like some opinions on my choices here.

Oh, forgot .... NO gaming and NO overclocking. I'd like to use only onboard graphics, at least to start off with.
I'll probably install Windows 7 but haven't decided on 32-bit or 64-bit.

 

Sounds like an average workstation. I don't play with Intel though.

You could add a low wattage PCIe card for video support with a 500W PSU. The power supply, though slightly oversized should actually run a bit cooler and last a little longer. Less stress is good.

That would give you a nice round build, with RAM in all the right places.

Long way to say, even though you're not in the market for a card yet, don't skimp on the power supply.

:major

 

Thanks, mekanic. Good thought.

I was planning on using a Rosewill CAPSTONE-450 450W
There is also a 550W of the same design, but I think thats's overkill.

 

A few years ago I would have recommended you avoid Rosewill PSUs at all costs. But after years of bad reviews and poor reputation, they have come around and their better PSUs that have earned 80-Plus certifications are proving to be good PSUs. And certainly achieving 80-Plus "Gold" sweetens the pot even more.

Note there really is no such thing as overkill for a PSU. The computer will draw from the PSU only what it needs, not what it is capable of delivering. So if the computer needs 300W, the PSU will deliver 300W, regardless if the PSU is a 400W PSU, or a 1000W PSU. And the PSU will draw from the wall 300W plus another ~30W due to inefficiencies - again, regardless the size of the PSU. The only harm from buying too big is to your budget.

HOWEVER, in addition to "less stress" and "run cooler" mentioned by the mechanic, buying more than you need is also a good idea to ensure the PSU will cover you 2 years down the road if you decide to upgrade your graphics card, add more RAM, and an extra drive or two. So plan ahead so you don't need to buy a new PSU too. Oh, and another advantage to more headroom is the cooler running PSU will toggle down its cooling fan for quieter operation too. Less noise is good.

I use Gigabyte in almost all of my builds because they have served me well over the years. But MSI does make good boards too. Regardless the board, you MUST ensure the CPU (and RAM) you want to use is supported by the board by checking the QVL (qualified vendors list) on the board's webpage. For example, see under the Support & Downloads page for the Gigabyte. You must buy a listed CPU but there are too many RAM makers and models for board makers to test them all - so you must buy RAM with the same specs as listed RAM.

BTW - understand integrated graphics have come a long way in recent years such that they even provide pretty good "game play" (much in thanks to "gaming notebooks"). But, to ensure the integrated graphics is not a bottleneck, you need to make sure you have enough RAM. With a dual-channel board, I recommend 8Gb minimum.

Finally, with 8Gb, you need to ensure you get 64-bit Windows.

 

Thanks for your response, Digerati.
I was hoping to hear from you. Your posts are informative and insightful.

I'm rethinking the issue of the power supply.
As for the "overkill" comment, I was thinking of the efficiency curve of the PSU output.
When the draw from the PSU is below 20% of it's capacity, the efficiency drops off.
So, for example, putting a 1000W PSU in a computer that only draws 180 watts, might not be the best approach.
Granted, that's an extreme case (accidental pun )
I was partially mistaken because it's not that much of an issue.
jonnyGURU: Power Supply Efficiency FAQ

Working with some real numbers, my build would draw less than 200W, according to eXtreme PSU Calculator.
So a 550W PSU should put the draw at about 36%, which is about where the PSU efficiency should be at it's best.

I saw a comment someplace that modular PSU's have a slightly lower efficiency than non-modular.
Also, I noticed that for the Rosewill Capstone 450W and 550W, the non-modular models have a 7 year warranty but the modular
models have a 5 year warranty.
Since my case is a mini-tower, it might benefit from a modular design.

Tom's Hardware: A list of recommended PSUs
click See full content in the first post

Hardware Secrets: Rosewill CAPSTONE-550M Power Supply Review

 

Concerning your comments about 20% PSU capacity, years ago (and today with cheap, generic PSUs) that would be a valid concern. But not today with 80-Plus Certified PSUs. Note in that JonnyGuru article the last paragraph in that post concerning 80-Plus certified PSUs. Also note that was written 5 years ago. Ancient history - almost. A primary point of 80-Plus certification is that to achieve that certification, the PSU must be very efficient across a wide range of loads - which makes your whole point about 20% capacity totally moot.

My point about modular supplies is that any circuit that goes through a connector (vs a straight wire) adds some resistance to the circuit. Though with a quality connector that is securely connected, that resistance will be minimal, and is probably not a factor. What is a factor, however, is time and open (unused) connections. Unused or poorly secured connectors are exposed to dust and debris that can affect continuity. Another problem is, where do you store the unused connectors? And since there is no industry standard, if you have multiple modular PSUs, you have to keep track of the unused cables and which PSU they go to. A PITA, in my opinion - especially if you have to keep track for several years. As a result, the unused cables are often stored in the bottom of the case anyway.

I don't see the fact it is a mini-tower is a factor. If you carefully tie the unused cables up out of the way (perhaps in an unused optical drive bay), they will not be in the way, or get lost.

As I noted too, Rosewill 80-Plus PSUs are worth considering.

As for the eXtreme calculator, I use that all the time. But I don't think it adequately accounts for long term use using its defaults settings. So here's my canned text on sizing PSUs.

Use the eXtreme PSU Calculator Lite to determine your minimum and recommended power supply unit (PSU) requirements. Plan ahead and plug in all the hardware you think you might have in 2 or 3 years (extra drives, bigger or 2nd video card, more RAM, etc.). Be sure to read and heed the notes at the bottom of the calculator page. I recommend setting Capacitor Aging to 10% and setting both TDP and system load to 100%. These steps ensure the recommended supply has adequate head room for stress free (and perhaps quieter) operation, as well as future hardware demands. Setting Capacitor Aging to 30% will provide an even nicer amount of headroom.

 

I'd think seriously about a Seasonic G Series 360W (80Plus Gold) for your build, even with an add-in graphics card like an HD7750 (~60W), in real-world situations, it's not likely to actually pull more than 200W. I'd guess at ~70W just above idle (general browsing), 90W or so watching a video.

I had one in my mini-ITX ASRock/Xeon/HD7850 main build for 6 months 24/7, now running (several hours per day) my i3 3220/HD5770 second rig. Gaming (inc. Crysis 3) didn't pull more than ~175W from the wall, 16:10 24" monitor included. It's quiet, too.

Some reviews:
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=313
http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1297-page1.html
http://www.kitguru.net/components/power-supplies/zardon/seasonic-g-series-360w-power-supply-review/

The HD4xxx series graphics should be a couple of steps better than my HD2500 i3, which is enough for general purpose use, the i3 itself is very capable. I'm happy buying ASRock, their mid to upper range 'boards are a good price for solid performance and quality.

 

Choosing a motherboard has been the most difficult task for my computer parts, when considering the different brands,
configurations and chipsets, and I need to find RAM for the board.

The ASRock H87M is my first choice,
but I'm just not sure which way to go.

The ASUS H81M-A was also recommended.
It has the H81 chipset so there are fewer SATA connectors but I think 4 is enough.

Both boards have gotten excellent reviews and have a 3 year warranty.

I want to make sure that there are proper connectors for Both of the case fans which I hope will be connected to teperature
sensors so they'll be Speed Regulated.
I have looked at the ASRock manual and I did see 2 fan connectors.
The ASRock board does list 2 x Chassis Fan connectors (1 x 4-pin, 1 x 3-pin)
but the ASUS board lists 1 x Chassis Fan connector(s) (1 x 4 -pin).
The ASRock board also has a LPT1 connector, which the ASUS does not have.

Whichever board it is, I'll need 2 x 4GB RAM modules: 240pin DDR3 1600/1333
Will the G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL work with the ASRock board ??
It is Not on the ASRock Memory Support list but I think it's the right type.

 

Anything above 4 gigs of ram you will need 64-bit version of windows to use the extra memory.

 

The makers' memory list will never be fully updated but these days, esp. for Intel-based 'boards, compatibility is very good.

I'd suggest you consider LoVo/Green RAM ~1.25-1.35v; lower voltage, lower power draw, less heat, no need for 'heatspreaders' that block airflow from other components: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...00000285 600000279&IsNodeId=1&IsPowerSearch=1.

That final trigger-pull on a 'board is always the tricky one.

 

You don't have to buy listed RAM. As I noted above, "...there are too many RAM makers and models for board makers to test them all - so you must buy RAM with the same specs as listed RAM."

As for heat spreaders, if you will not be doing extreme overclocking, I feel they are mostly "marketing gimmick" - a "billboard" to advertise the brand. This is especially true with lower voltage RAM.

Remember, it is the case's responsibility to provide an adequate supply and flow of cool air through the case.

Having said that, if the RAM has heat spreaders, I prefer the ones that have heatsink type fins like those on those G.Skills or these Muskins. I feel the type used on these Corsairs, for example, do a better job of trapping the heat (like wrapping food in foil) instead of dissipating the heat - I may be wrong but that's how my mind sees it.