Is My I7 Running Too Hot?

Just had to replace my failed CPU with a new one, so I ended up going with the I7 4770 (in a Biostar TB85 motherboard). My temps immediately spiked to 99 degrees C within a day or two, using the "spread" method of my Arctic Silver compound. I read that this can cause problems, so I removed that with some rubbing alcohol and went back to the old tried and true "pea" shape. This and making sure my heat sink was re-seated seemed to have helped a great deal

However, I'm still hovering around the mid 40 degree C when idling. This jumps into the high 80s when I stress test the CPU for 20 minutes or more. Just wondering what it's so high, as all my research tells me this is not normal ranges.

 

FWIW, I always spread my TIM (thermal interface material). The problem is not the shape of the TIM drop you use, but how much TIM you apply and how thoroughly the TIM covers the CPU die.

It is important to remember the most efficient transfer of heat occurs with direct metal-to-metal contact between the two mating surfaces. The purpose of TIM is for the solid particles to fill the microscopic pits and valleys in those mating surfaces to push out and prevent any insulating air from getting trapped between the device and its heatsink. So any excess TIM is in the way and counterproductive to the efficient transfer of heat.

One of most common mistakes is for users to apply too much TIM. So the goal is thorough coverage, but as thin as possible. So I always start with a tiny bit, about the size of a grain of rice, and spread it out from there. It is easy to add more, but not remove excess without starting over.

For my spreader, I snip off the end of a plastic shaft Q-Tip/cotton swap, then bend the cut end over about 1/2 inch from the cut end to form a little hockey stick applicator. Then I spread the TIM evenly like icing a cake.

Nothing wrong with 40°C.

What are you stressing it with and more importantly, what are your temps under "normal" use? With the rated Tcase maximum for that CPU being 72.72°C, it would "seem" your high 80s are too high. But unfortunately, we don't know what sensor is being used, or where it is located. There is no industry standard for that. If your processor is not throttling back in speed or becoming unstable at those temps, then clearly, it is NOT getting too hot.

But high 80s is too warm for my personal comfort - at least if reaching those temps under normal use - not during stress tests.

It is also important to remember it is your case's responsibility to provide a sufficient supply of cool air flowing through the case. The CPU cooler need only toss the CPU's heat into that air flow.

So you need to make sure your case interior (including the CPU cooler) is free of heat trapping dust. Check your cable management to ensure they are imposing the minimum impact on that flow. Reroute and tie back as necessary.

If need, add another case fan, or replace your current fans with better (preferably larger) fans. Your goal is to have good front-to-back (or bottom-to-top) flow through the case.

Larger fans are typically better because, first, they can move more air. But also, then can move more air while spinning at a lower RPM. That means they can move more air while making less noise. Always better in my book.

 

My GTX 550ti hits around 57c that's around 135F if your worrying about 40c ooh boy.

I would still take a can of air and dust it out.

 

Sorry but that is totally irrelevant to this discussion. For one, he is talking about his Intel CPU, not a graphics card. And for another, GPUs typically run hotter than CPUs because they tend to pull more current. But again, that's irrelevant since this is about CPU temps.

 

Rolf i know that is why i suggested a air dusting.Typically that will normally fix the issue.

 

Uh huh.

Well, sorry, but it still made no sense since it is the high 80s reading that would be worrisome. And cleaning the system of heat trapping dust was already suggested anyway, too.

 

I suppose I should have noted earlier that I'm a ninja at dusting and wire management. So that's not the issue for sure, plus I'm leaving the side of the case off for now until I narrow this temp issue down. I'm not at all worried about the 40C temp, if I was only running 10 degrees hotter under full load. But a simple stress test using Intel's Diagnostic Tool spikes it to almost 90. I'm no CPU expert, but I know in my heart that's a problem waiting to happen and I should address it.

I guess I'll try a better heat sink than the stock one and perhaps a new TIM approach and see what happens.

 

That's rarely a good idea. When you take the side panel off, you totally disrupt any "flow" (and over-pressures) through the case and it is the flow that moves the air through and heat out. If you are going to keep the side panel off, I recommend you blast a desk fan into the open case. And if that helps keep your peak temps down, you probably need to look at better case cooling - as in better or additional fan(s).

I would expect a much greater increase than 10° from idle to stressed with any stress test - even in the best of conditions. And a "simple" stress test does not mean it causes less stress. 100% CPU utilization is 100% CPU utilization, regardless which program puts it there.

And for the record, contrary to what many want us to believe, stock coolers are perfectly capable of keeping the CPUs they came with properly cooled - as long as you are not doing any heavy overclocking.

Again, all the CPU cooler needs to do is toss the CPU's heat into that "flow" and OEM coolers are quite capable of doing that.

And remember also, cooler does not automatically mean better. Yes, it is absolutely essential to keep a CPU properly cooled. But as long as it is kept comfortably within the normal operating temperature range, that is just fine. That is, running at 40°C does NOT suggest the CPU will perform better, be more stable, or have a longer life expectancy than if it was running at 55°C. 55°C is still just fine.

 

Not that I use an Intel cpu but the following thread may help.

http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answers/id-3129033/4770-hot.html

a post in that thread states:

"80C is too warm for a 4770 unless he's using stock heatsink"

 

Yeah, that is just wrong. I wish people would do their homework and understand that things change. In the world of IT, especially with hardware (and operating systems too), what was true 10 - 15 years ago probably is not true today. That is definitely the case with OEM coolers, but some folks are just stuck in the past and refuse to pull their heads out, or just parrot what others say (that is not a dig at you, risk_reversal - but at rounakr94 in that Tom's post).

Speaking to the crowd, why would Intel or AMD include a stock fan with any of their CPUs - and then warranty them both together - if the coolers were incapable of doing their jobs? That just makes no good or logical business sense at all. So they don't do it!

How could Dell, HP, or Acer get away with using stock coolers if they could not adequately cool the CPUs they use in their computers? They couldn't.

IF an Intel or AMD processor cannot be cooled by one of their OEM coolers and therefore needs an aftermarket cooler to stay properly cooled, what do Intel and AMD do? They sell the processor without a cooler!

We put together lots of computers around here (mostly Intels, but some AMDs too). If the client chooses a processor that comes from Intel or AMD with a cooler, we always use the stock coolers with no problems. Why? Because we properly configure "case" cooling to establish a decent supply of cool air flowing front-to-back (sometimes, bottom-to-top) through the case. And we use good cable management to avoid blocking that desired front-to-back air flow.

And for the record, because we always recommend and suggest quality cases, that rarely means we have to modify the case or add any extra fans in order to get sufficient air flowing through the case!

Many many years ago, the OEM coolers supplied by Intel and AMD were junk. No doubt about it. But not today. Today's OEM coolers are very capable of providing adequate cooling, even with mild to moderate overclocking - in a properly configured case. And of course, configuring case cooling is the user's responsibility. Today's OEM coolers (when used in a properly configured case) are even very quiet too!

Yes, you can get more efficient and quieter after market coolers. But as I stated above, cooler temps does not mean better performance, more stability, or longer life, as long as the temps are maintained comfortably within the processor's normal operating range. And a good case will do that and will suppress the CPU's fan noise too - to the point where if you hear any fan noise, it will likely be from fans located at or near the case's exterior (graphics card, PSU and case fans).

So what's a properly configured case? To me, it is one that has at least one decent (I like 140mm) fan in front pulling cool air in, and one decent fan in back exhausting heated air out. That does not include the PSU fan. And a properly configured case is one where cables are routed and tied back to minimize impacting the desired air flow. And for me, any case I buy must have removable, washable air filters too.

 

The kinda compute case i bought was a Cooler Master HAF 912 - Mid https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...=Cooler_Master_HAF_912-_-11-119-233-_-Product
Works quit well with air cooling.I have two fans in the front.One in the back and cpu and one pulling air from the top.

 

Normally "blowhole" or top mounted fans are exhaust fans so they are not trying to fight Mother Nature's plan for heat to rise naturally.

 

Rolf

At least shamu only has one blowhole.Unlike my case lol.

 

Still, unless yours is blowing into a water radiator, I would turn it around and have it exhaust heated air out - especially since it does not appear by the Newegg specs that the top vent is filtered.

 

Agree with your overall assessment Digerati in as much as if the case (and air flow is poor) then the HSF will not be able to perform efficiently.

My case is a Lian Li PC-7HA which has 2x 140mm fans at front and one 120mm at rear (PSU exhausting). The bottom front 140mm fan runs much slower about 850-900rpm and mainly cools my 3x Drives (2x HDD and 1x SSD). This set up also runs +ve pressure.

My AMD AM3+ cpu has a Thermalright downblower (not tower) HSF with 92mm fan (also cools MB and chipsets).

End result (depending on season) CPU idle 33C (at die). Load Prime 95 Small FFTs (max heat) 46C. With the stock HSF, I was getting 3 to 5C higher temps.

Obviously if one is into o/cing then case airflow / HSF becomes much more important.

I would also agree that top blowholes should be for exhaust purposes in air coolers.

@wile e coyote, I hope you don't mind me saying this but it seems apparent that the drive cages in your case are clearly blocking the airflow from the front fans. Unless of course you need all those 3 1/2" drive bays.

 

I have removed the drive bays and only have small factory drives installed.The ones for laptops.

These are my current temps.
Operating System
Windows 7 Professional 64-bit SP1
CPU
AMD Phenom II X4 965 29 °C
Deneb 45nm Technology
RAM
16.0GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 669MHz (8-8-8-20)
Motherboard
Gigabyte Technology Co., Ltd. 970A-DS3P (CPU 1) 24 °C
Graphics
ELEFW2217M (1920x1080@60Hz)
Hanns.G HW173 (1440x900@60Hz)
1023MB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 550 Ti (EVGA) 34 °C
Storage
223GB KINGSTON SUV400S37240G SATA Disk Device (SSD) 21 °C
931GB Western Digital WDC WD10 JPVX-11JC3T0 SATA Disk Device (SATA) 20 °C
Optical Drives
ATAPI iHAS324 W SATA CdRom Device
Audio
Realtek High Definition Audio

 

Yes but intel processors are not suppose to get hot.Under full load mine will stay at that temp.

 

Just stop with the off-topic, please.

 

Stock cooler? Make sure it's equally tight at all click down points on the mobo, inspect them to make sure nothing's funky with any of them. My 4770k Idles at 35, and under load..I can't remember but the only time I had crazy numbers like 99 was due to a bad snap down on the heat sink, and that was the stock one that it came with. Also, did you manually set the volatge or is it all set to auto?

 

That applies to all coolers, not just stock.