Cord Protector For 12 Gauge Extension Cord/ Could I Do With 14 Gauge?

I was about to buy a 12 gauge extension cord, which I need so that I can have my electronics plugged into a grounded outlet. I need to buy a 25 foot one.
However, I am not so sure that many cord protectors are going to be big enough to handle a cord that is that thick (I need a 15 foot one that I can cut). I talked to home depot support chat and they said that this one is thick enough.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Corduct...-Floor-Cord-Protector-Black-CDBK-15/100669767
However, I am skeptical because the model number is the same as this (though the supposed brand is different)
https://www.amazon.com/Legrand-Wiremold-CDBK-15-Overfloor-Protector/dp/B00KVQP17A
& in the answered questions, a responder seems to indicate that it's too small for a 12 gauge cord.

Maybe I should just go with a 14 gauge extension cord, as that will probably be enough. Probably at most I will have a printer/scanner/copier, a desktop computer, a laptop, a modem, a router, and a voip adapter plugged into it at once. I also have a standing desk but I wont adjust that much. I guess these will all be plugged into a UPS that has some surge only outlets.

 

I forgot to mention that I also need to power a monitor.

I saw one model of cord protector that said that it can handle a cord of length up to size 14/3. I am pretty sure that the 14 stands for 14 awg. But, does the 3 mean a 3 prong extension cord?

 

Here is a table that I found..
http://www.diybyexample.info/2010/07/what-size-extension-cord-do-i-need/
It says that the 14 gauge at 25 feet is sufficient for 15 amps.
15 amps * 110 volts = 1650 watts.
I suppose in order for the devices to receive 1650 watts, the wall outlet has to be supplying more as some wattage is lost to resistance from the extension cord and to the connection between the extension cord and the UPS. Speaking of which, what I linked to might not fully apply because the author is probably assuming that you have 1 device connected directly to the extension cord.

 

I figured out that the 3 does mean that there are 3 wires in the cord (one for each of the prongs-- ground, neutral, and hot)
http://www.diybyexample.info/2015/01/gauge-extension-cord/

 

A backup plan might be to plug a splitter into the outlet and then run two 14 gauge extension cords and 2 cord protectors. From what I have read, doing that will not split the amperage in half (as is the case when you split a coaxial cable with a splitter) but instead let the devices pull what they need. For example, if the outlet has 20 amps available, one side of the splitter can pull 13 and the other 7. Of course the drawback is that you need 2 ups's or surge and spike protectors on the other side (some might consider this a plus).

 

Dude, when I have some vacation time and am in dire need of a road trip I hope you are in the States.

If you have a basement, a battery drill, feeler bit, an old work box/madison clips, a hole saw, and a fresh pull from the panel could go a long way...

 

The gauge rating has to do with the wire conductor size inside cable/cord. Smaller number = bigger conductor for more current capacity. The rating has nothing to do with thickness of the insulation. This is something to keep in mind when shopping as it means you can have a 14/3 gauge cord that is thicker than a 12/3 gauge cord due the thinner insulation on the 12.

Thinner insulation does not necessarily mean less quality, but it may mean it is less durable. But not sure that matters if you will be putting it in a protector.

The longer the cord, the greater the resistance in the cord. So IMO, going with a 12 gauge (or even 10 gauge) would be wiser for longer runs.

Doing this makes no sense to me. Unless you put some sort of interrupt (fusible link or circuit breaker), it is the outlet and service panel that is the limiting factor. I would go with one bigger cord.

Don't forget that the total current assumes all the connected devices are pulling maximum current at the same time.

Do you need this to avoid a tripping hazard? Or will you be rolling heavy equipment over this? If just for a tripping hazard, pretty sure you will find most people (except little kids) will step over it. Kids will step on it for fun, but they are not heavy adults.

If you scroll down for the one you linked to, it says it supports .5 inch cord. That's big.

 

Interesting. I didn't realize that the thicknesses varies. But, that makes sense because the materials (the wire material and the insulation material) can vary.

I will have the cord running under a rug so there is not much of a tripping hazard. I am actually more concerned about wearing the cord out. Specifically, creating more of a fire hazard by wearing the cord out and the cost of replacing the cord. Also, if I run it without a cord protector, it will wear out the rug faster. Although it's an inexpensive rug so not a big deal.

I do see the mention of the diameter. I guess that probably does refer to cord diameter. Thanks.

 

But wouldn't a lower gauge generally need more insulation? Wouldn't more insulation serve to prevent the insulation from melting?

 

Never put electrical wires/cables under a carpet.

The primary purpose of insulation is to prevent the transmission of electricity, heat or sound.

I suggest you get a certified technician to do the work as per the local regulations.

 

Well, not so much wire materials. Copper is copper, after all, and the amount of current a copper conductor can handle is set by the Laws of Physics. So that leaves it up to the construction - to include if solid or stranded wires (solid is not very flexible so all extension cords used stranded), the number of strands, twists per foot, etc. And there are no industry standards or regulations for the thickness of the insulation used. There are minimum requirements for the insulating "capability" but that can vary greatly depending on the materials used in that insulation. And that depends much on how the extension cord is "marketed". A "heavy duty" "industrial" grade extension cord designed for outdoor use at construction sites is likely to have much thicker, more durable insulation than a cord designed for standard indoor home use.

I agree that running wires under a rug is not a good idea. This is especially true of power (vs data) cables. A rug can smother the cable, trapping heat. This could be a problem if the current through the cable is at or near capacity. While all your connected devices will not come close to that capacity, that assumes all those devices are working properly. If one is damaged and/or fails and develops a short or even a partial short, total current through the extension cord could increase significantly, and dangerously.

Another problem is wear. People see a cable protector and they likely will step over it. Even if they step on it, the protector is designed to prevent smashing the cable (and the conductor inside the cable) and/or smashing the cable into the hard floor underneath.

With a rug over the wire, people will not see it and likely step on it. After many times, this can breakdown the insulation - in particular, the insulation of the inner conductors. And that may result in a short under your rug. Not good.

I also agree with hiring a qualified and certified electrician and either have the nearby outlets properly grounded, or have a new and properly grounded circuit installed.

If that is not possible (perhaps you are a renter, or its just not in the budget right now), I might suggest keeping this off the floor by using wire wall clips. It may not look as aesthetically pleasing, and may require a longer (and thus larger gauge) cable to run around doorways, but it will be safer.

 

In that case, the issue is E subset D which means voltage drop. The longer and thinner the conductor, the lower the supply voltage will be at the end of the cable run versus origin. Longer the run, thicker the wire in this case. The following sentence is not exactly correct, but there is an inverse relationship between voltage and amperage. Generally speaking, if you double the AC voltage, you cut the amperage draw in half. There is a difference between VA and watts. Wattage is technically calculated using a power factor percentage of efficiency. That's why you have different grades of power supplies (bronze, silver, etc). VA is simply volts multiplied by amperage. End all be all, amperage means heat.

If you can tack the cord along and above the base board, it may be preferable. If you're not a confident DIYer, as stated hire/barter with a professional to do a proper and complete job.

 

I note you said it is not exactly correct, but in reality it does not even really apply here because the formula (based on Ohm's Law), includes R for resistance. That is, E = IR where E, for electromotive force (voltage) = I (current intensity) x Resistance. And resistance cannot be ignored because there is no such thing as a 100% efficient conductor (at least not at normal ambient temperatures). And resistance goes up as the cable length increases. Even the quality of the extension cord's connectors affects resistance.

Ummm, not really. Certainly too much current for the conductor can result in too much heat (if the breaker does not blow first). But that is due to the efficiency of the conductor and efficiency is really a factor of resistance. If you have 0Ω resistance in a circuit, there will be 100% efficiency and no heat even if there are 1000 amps running through that circuit. So end all be all, "resistance" means heat, not current. In fact, your typical space heaters depend on that electrical resistance through the "heating element" to produce the heat (hopefully in a controlled manner).

@Silverthunder - while sizing up the cord (in terms of gauge and current capability) requires you total the maximum demand possible of all connected devices to be safe, I note again the odds all the connected devices will demand maximum power at the same point in time are slim to none. Even within the computer itself, it is extremely rare for the CPU, GPU, drives, RAM, all fans, and the motherboard itself to call for maximum power at the same time.

And it should be noted computer's demand what they need, not what the power supply can deliver. That is, if the CPU, GPU, drives, RAM, all fans, and the motherboard all need 300W, they will pull from the PSU 300W even if the PSU is a 500W supply or a 1000W supply. And the PSU will pull from the wall 300W, plus a little more due to inefficiencies - typically no more than 60W extra for an 80% efficient supply.

So 300 x .2 = 60 extra due to PSU efficiency (energy lost in the form of heat).
300 + 60 = 360W total from the wall, even if the PSU is capable of delivering 1000W.

Is that an ink-jet or laser printer? Laser's demand a lot more power when first starting up. That's why lasers should not be put on a UPS. Ink-jets can go on a UPS.

 

There is no yin without the yang, as it were. However 1,000 ohms is just resistance without flow. Friction creates heat. Amperage creates friction. A standing boulder creates no friction.

Without motion, there is no heat. So, I respectfully disagree.

 

The potential difference between 2 points causes current flow. Then there is a source of power across what's between the 2 point. Without this difference, there is no power used.

 

Ummm, not really. Yes, friction creates heat. In fact it is the electrons banging around in the conductors, crashing into the walls of the conductors, impurities in the conductors and into other atoms and electrons that creates that friction. But what moves those electrons? The "electromotive force". And what is that? Voltage, not current.

The facts are, resistance creates friction, not amperage. But without current, there is no flow of electrons.

Exactly. And what is another name for that "difference in potential"? Voltage.

 

, but there is an inverse relationship between voltage and amperage. Generally speaking, if you double the AC voltage, you cut the amperage draw in half.......................................

This is only true in certain situations. Namely .....transformers. There is an inverse relationship between the primary and secondary number of winding of the core. Common examples in the US is an AC unit with 208v applied. Stepping the voltage down to 24v the inverse shows on the current in the secondary.

In the same situation a transformer may be rated as 208-240 / 460. Some houses have 240 most business have 208. An industrial complex will use 460 if available. The wiring is changed usually by moving taps or re-arranging the supply conductors. This is actually taking less or more winding of the secondary to move between 208 or 240. 240 will provide about 28v if the tap is not moved. Most times this has no real effect if missed..............To change to 460 the primary coils are re-arranged from a series to a parallel cofiguration.

Motors,... are a different case. A motor may be rated the same 208-240 / 460. The current rating is also listed with something like 6.2a-8a / 3.6a. On larger motors it may be something like 16a-18.2 / 8a. In this case you can see that going from 208 to 240 raises the current, while going to 460 cuts the current by half. So both situations appear to exist. What is seen is when the winding remain configured in 1 certain way, raising the voltage raises the current. At the higher voltage, the windings are re-arranged in the primary, resulting in a decrease in current caused by the primary windings being re-arranged.

 

High voltage creates arcs, yes. At low amperage in a vac tube, thus fluorescent bulbs, cathode, anode and all. Voltage is the push, but current is still the flow. Electrons tend to flow, and the energy they conduct passes on by. Even in a standard 12 gauge conductor, the electrons probably move a few feet in an hour.

 

Don't use the B leg on a Delta, check. Like I said, general rule. Residential and industrial supply are two different animals. Two phase is a lost art. And, torque translates to smoke...

 

I have asked a few electricians ,'How long does it take for the electrons in your house to get back to the power plant?'. I usually get a blank stare.
Hint - We usually have a transformer feeding the house.

Magnetism transfers the power in the primary to the secondary without a physical connection.

Only one electrician has brought up the idea of the center tapped secondary being bonded to ground.
Can this allow some electrons to be moved from the 208 house circuit to the higher voltage circuit running on the power line poles?

My belief is the electrons in the house circuit remain in the house.

?

 

We had a helper once, was given a circuit breaker to install in a sub-panel, to run a string of temporary lights. He ran the romex for the lights back to sub-panel, then mounted the breaker. The transformers on the pole had one larger than the other two. ( 3 phase delta). When the circuit was energized, the temporary lights shined like the sun for about 8 seconds, then went to popping. He had landed the breaker on a an empty 'b' phase slot. Normally red, but in these panels colored orange! He had a lesson on using a voltmeter.

 

Electrons do move. At the speed of light in their orbits.

In a conductor, they transfer energy but don't move along the line so fast. Like I said, it can take some time for an electron to actually move a few feet. If that's wrong, feel free to chime in.

And, B leg Delta is normally orange in the States.

 

Magnetism, AND induction.

 

Some time, yes. And while it is not at the speed of light, it is pretty darn close. It is not really an issue of how fast the electrons flow. It is more an issue of how many continue to flow. When resistance increases, fewer electrons flow.

In "super conductors" that have zero resistance, those electrons do flow at the speed of light and could (in theory anyway) do so forever.

 

As mentioned before. A free tool to figure out voltage drop.

-> https://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html

 

I went to edit and went over the 10 min. Re-typing.

You 1st have to see at the outlet what wire size you have. At the main box a 15 amp circut breaker or fuse will use a 14 gauge wire to each outlet. A 20 amp breaker will use 12 gauge wire. To the outlet. You also have to have the outlet rated as 15 or 20 amp. If you try to use a extention cord that's a 12 gauge on a 14 gauge circut. It will NOT pop the breaker if an issue. Has to be one size wire thru out. Change the resistance to larger on the cord, it won't let the smaller size wire change resistance and fool the circut. Larger in-line extention cord wire size dosen't get hot enough and change the resistance to the smaller wire.

I had a window air condish that would pop the 15 amp breaker if I had other thing on when it started up. Had to run a seperate 20 amp breaker, 12 gauge wire with a 20 amp outlet. To make things ok.

For what you are doing, think the cord protector is a good idea. Looks thick enough to protect. Stick with a 14 gauge as I'm betting it's on a 15 amp circut. And also think it's 14 gauge wire is enough at that run to support what your running on the circut. Not a lot of voltage drop. Just my humble thoughts.

 

Some thoughts on the 14ga versus 12ga aspect. Most electrical jobs I've seen in recent times will not allow 14ga wire during rough-in for power circuits. If the owner chooses to use a thinner wire after the recaptacle the owner is responsible.

https://www.copper.org/applications/electrical/building/a6119.html

 

Sure it will. You are assuming the maximum currant capability goes to the strongest link in the circuit. That is incorrect. It remains with the weakest - always!

No it doesn't. It all depends on the eventual load, and the distance. If a long run and large load, ideally, you should go bigger or equal. But if a smaller gauge can handle the current, you can use it safely too.

Sorry, but that makes no sense at all. I have a 6 foot piece of 24AWG copper wire in front of me right now. It has a diameter of about .5mm and according to my trusty multimeter, it has 0Ω resistance. I also have 6 foot piece 6AWG copper wire. It has a diameter of over 4mm. And guess what? It also has 0Ω resistance.

It is not about the resistance. It is about the current carrying capability. Of course resistance is a factor - Ohm's Law makes it so. But copper is used because it has the least resistance (besides silver but that corrodes too easily and of course, is expensive). You don't change the wire based on the resistance of the load. You change the wire based on the total maximum current of the load.

Without knowing the size of the AC (BTUs), there's no way for us to relate to this. Many larger window AC units even require 230VAC while smaller ones can run off 115VAC. Plus many other factors can degrade the current capability of a circuit to include the quality of and wear on the outlet and the age of the circuit breaker too. Even the number of times the breaker has tripped affects that as a tripped breaker tends to accumulate carbon on the contacts. And what is the primary material used to make resistors? Carbon.

 

With any motor, especially an hermetic compressor there is inrush current at startup. This the energy required to start the motor from a standstill. Single/two phase uses capacitors to aid startup. Three phase motors do not. The startup/inrush current is also a big part of oversizing the circuit by 125% is usually a safe bet to prevent nuisance tripping. Inrush current, is also why you see lights dim when the icebox fires up. Big draw. Also, there is what's called "skin effect" with AC power. Alternating current travels on the surface of the conductor. DC uses the whole cross section of the conductor.

 

I did word things wrong on what I was trying to say. I was thinking along the lines of heating up a wire when a heavy amp load is on the circut. When I said resistance, more so to heat buildup.

I'm also thinking thermal heat transfer might come into play. If the circut is close to the limit to pop the breaker. Larger wire gets heat transfered from the smaller wire. Dropping down the heat on the 14G, but same amp draw on the wire. Perhaps only at the joint. Overthinking perhaps?

Circut breakers are thermal-magnetic.

Too many things plugged into the one circut at one time. And of total combined amp draw. Insulation breaking down brittle thru time. One circut breaker might have 10 outlets on it. Assorted things plugged in to each one. Anytime a load is put on a wire. The wire will heat up a bit. Your right on the weakest link.

The weakest link might be the circut breaker itself.

I have had an outlet arc behind the cover, in front of me without the breaker tripping. Plugged in a box fan, turned it on Hi. Next was the arcing for a few seconds and then quit arcing. Ran to the box and I shut off the breaker. Hmm, why? I know the difference between a tripped and still in the on position. Vrs a tripped. Turned out the wire had got hot near the screw connection for the outlet. Loose connection. And as it melted. It arc'd across till the gap got too big.

I also found where the wire was held down with the screw. It was loose. Worked loose thru heat-cooling off? I'm betting it was tightened up good when initally installed. The one that fryed was the hot wire.

I asked my electrician friend why. ( I own 3 houses, 2 are rental. He has since rewired my house and one rental. 70, 80 and 100 year old houses. ) Told that any circut breaker over 20 years old can have issues with wear. Worn connectors.

If you ohm test two different size stranded wires connected together. Then, only unwind one strand from each end to connect both. You'll get 0 ohms. Put an amp draw on it, that single strand connection will get hot or glow red. Resistance-> ohm's, values change to more, and then heat.

One of the reasons I always stay with the same size wire, feed to outlet. If in the future I sell the house. The next guy that comes in and finds the 12 G outlet on a 14 gauge circut might think it has a stronger circut. Even though it is fed by a 15 amp breaker.

On the 110v air condish. The outlet I used was on a circut with other things plugged into other outlets. Use the vacuum and turn on the air. Air on, plug in a hair dryer, ect. Tripped the breaker.

 

Yeah, I think you are over thinking it. Heat "transfer"? Ummm, no. The "transfer" of heat would actually be a good thing as the larger wire (in this case) would be acting as a heat sink, pulling dangerous heat away from the smaller wire. What happens at the connection depends on too many variables to come to any conclusions here. Though it is safe to say every connection introduces some resistance at that point, if a good, solid mechanical connection, there will be a good, solid electrical connection too. Assuming it is in good repair and designed to carry the current

This is caused by a faulty/damaged socket and not because you were demanding too much current. Remember, it is the voltage that is arcing across the gap - and there should be no gaps. Your outlet was damaged either from physical abuse, or just plain wear.

A good "mechanical" connection is required to have a good "electrical" connection. A worn socket results in the spring tension failing to firmly grip the plug's prongs. This results in tiny arcs which creates carbon build up (black spots). This carbon continues to build up resulting in bigger gaps that eventually can result in dangerous arcing.

No. It worked loose because it was not properly secured tightly in the first place or, it suffered some sort of physical abuse causing it to come loose. The expansion/contraction from heating up and cooling off can make a loose connection looser. But if the wires were attached properly in the first place (or not damaged after the fact through abuse), they would not become loose on their own. And the breaker would trip long before the outlet had a chance to get hot.

20 is just an arbitrary number. If not exposed to direct sunlight or the weather, age has a negligible affect. If a breaker never "trips" or an outlet is rarely ever used, they can last almost indefinitely. But if a breaker trips often, or an outlet is constantly having devices plugged in and out of them, they will wear out sooner.

You are trying to create oddball scenarios to rationalize entire theories. Nothing you just said there makes sense until you replace all your variables with specific values. Nothing you said says that single strand will get hot or glow red. Why? Because you did not define the load. We don't know the size of the wires, the amount of current running through it, voltage or anything else.

Nah! First, nobody but the inspector is going to look at the wires. And he's going to inspect the service panel too. I think you need to let your electrician friend (assuming he's qualified and certified) do the thinking (and wiring) for you in this area. He's there to ensure any modifications, repairs or updates meet or exceed codes.

Well of course! Most hair dryers are rated at 1500W. Even a small 8000 BTU AC should be on its own 15A circuit.

It better be!!!!!!!!! That's the whole point. Whatever type of circuit safety interrupt is being used, it needs to trip or blow BEFORE something burns up - like the whole house!

 

Thought a long time about replying to your post. You seem to know a lot about home electrical, Q about my electrician friend. You have a backround in it? I'll tell you mine if you tell me yours.

 

You can click on the link in my sig to see mine.

 

Well Bill, Impressive backround. Hands on instead of a teacher in a class that never did hands on. Only book know how. I looked at your's. I tell you mine.

My father was a Ham Operator, General class. Helped him build Heath Kits and he explained things along the way.

Taught me ohms law, capacitor's, micro ferds on how they worked with the filiments in a tube. Resistance why and resisters. I got glassy eyes on his explain on a Varistor. Taught me voltage drop test. Works on not only pos power to, works on neg side also. Oscilloscope wave forms and why. How to read wiring diagrams and color codes changes when they went to a control and changed color codes after the control. Feed voltage to and after.

Some one was going into our wood shed, 2 wooden swing doors. I wired up a capacitor to each metal handle. Grab both, get a kick in the pants. . I used to power one up and a friend came over and toss it at him and say, catch!. That said. Only works one time , eh? Found out if zapped, Put a screwdriver across the 2 terminlaw's to watch for a spark. No spark, got ya!

Formal training. Railroad as a qualified Locomotive Engineer. 1975. On doing the 6 week class, covered rules and air-brake systems along with electrical systems. Got 100 on both rules and Mechanical. Back in the 70's I was the on board tech. Taught wiring diagrams, relays that controlled hi voltage from low voltage. That used the same color wire and used number codes at each end. Aux gen excited the main gen on the field to provide more amps. Schooling thru work on upgrading to circut boards, And Qualified on DPU. The locomotive on the back end of the train to control it. Relay for the wheel slip, centered. Wired traction motors, 1 and 3 two and 4. Kept the swing relay centered. Draw. They don't teach this now.

Why when starting from a stop, traction motors were wired from series. All get the same power. Once getting to speed around 30 mph, Thru a delay relay. went to parallel. At 60 mph , it went to shunting steps. Hmm whats a shunting step? When a D/C gen spins. Spinning fast it generates output volts. Volts going in? Simple explain. Say 24V in, spinning it generates 3 V output. Only letting 21 V in. Use a one way diode ( output ) to heating grids on top of the locomotive to dis-apate heat. They went to A/C gen and converetitdet to D/C.

Your comment on the circut breaker on a last resort, troubles is. When a wire is so thin/ it fry's before the breaker kickers in.

 

Correction, D/C motor, not generator.

 

Well, if he's still around, I used to maintain a couple MARS stations with KWM-2a transceivers and 30L1 linears - which I am sure he will appreciate. And, when I was stationed at Luke AFB, we got to visit and got a personal tour of Barry Goldwater's own station in Phoenix - which I really appreciated.

As for locomotives, before joining the AF, I worked 2015 feet underground in (at the time) the world's largest underground copper mine and I was a "motorman" - driving a train around the 80 miles of track on that level delivering supplies (timber, tools, and dynamite) and men to and fro. Really great pay for a 18 - 19 year old back in the day, but back breaking work too. Then they went on strike so I joined the AF and became an electronics technician.

Then that's the fault of the user for overloading the conductor.

But this is all way OT and it is not our thread. So time to move on.

 

Interesting. I never knew there was a hazard with having an extension cord that was too thick. If am understanding correctly, the hazard is that the device(s) could pull, say 50 amps (caused by a short circuit?), and that would not trip the breaker. The 50 amps going through the wire could then cause a fire, right?

I am reading a book about basic electricity and it's giving me good background but not a lot of practical information yet.

 

I wouldn't pay a grain of salt to any of that explaination!

 

Yeah, that's just not true at all. The only hazard might be failing to step high enough and tripping over the bigger cord.

No. That is just wrong. Assuming the breaker is working properly, it would trip at its trip threshold.

If you got that understanding from that book, throw the book away - NOW!

 

Reading about how to do something and actually doing it, are two very different things.
While studying electrical engineering, I got plenty of practical training - from learning how to use an oscilloscope, to bending metal conduit with a hickey (pipe bender), to working on 25 kV 125 ton locomotives and container cranes.

 

Right. I spent almost 2 years in formal classroom training on nothing but electronics. But it was not until I spent more than another year out in the field doing "on-the-job" training before I could be tested and certified, and then and only then was I allowed to call myself an "electronics technician".

 

If you have a 12ga cord plugged into a 15 amp circuit and you plug in and use one of the available 18 amp vacuum cleaners, the circuit breaker should trip. That's protecting the 14ga wire from over heating.

Swap the numbers around. If you have a 14ga cord plugged into a 20 amp circuit and use the same vacuum cleaner, the circuit breaker may not trip. Then you have the chance to overheat the 14ga cord. And if it has been run under a rug, or used coiled up, or any of the other 'don't's' listed in the cords literature, you have the chance of personal or property damage or both!

Note: the 20 amp circuit is supposed to only used at 80% of the rating. Same with the 15 amp circuit. THHN 12ga wire can handle more amperage (30-35amp) but is limited by code in the NEC to the 20a condition. (and 80% factored into that). This ensures a headroom of safety regarding these chance conditions.

 

I don't understand this, then:

Let's say that the wire from the circuit breaker box to the outlets is 12 gauge. What is this guy saying is the issue with certain extension cords?

Edit: didn't notice mandy Mann's post. I think I understand now. the circuit breaker is just "listening" for current that's over the rated amount for the wiring in the wall. If the extension cord is higher gauge number, there is nothing "listening" for too much current coming through that extension cord.

 

Yes in that way as long as you are realizing a higher guage number means a thiner wire. It will not be protected and is a hazard! Remember the circuit breaker is feeding the wire. If it is skinnier, it is not protected. If the wire is fatter, it is actually 'double' protected, as the breaker will trip before the bigger wire becomes over-heated.

 

I think you should just get a qualified and certified electrician in there and do it right.

 

@Silverthunder
With all due respect... You are treading on dangerous ground.

 

@ Silverthunder. What did you wind up doing? Just buy a 12 or 14 gauge extension cord and be done with it?

For what it's worth. My 100 years old house had a lack of outlets in each room. A mix of coax & conduit. Up-dated with 220v, 100 amp box, complete wire update. Qualified Certified Electrician was my neighbor with over 30 years with a company that did installing electrical in new houses. And was a licensed electrical inspector for a city close by. I've used him a few times thru the years.

Simple stuff I do myself. With 3 house's the newest one is 70-80 years old. I'd go broke, calling an electrician every time something got goofed up. Had one tenant try to install a ceiling fan and got a call it keeps tripping the breaker. Never asked me 1st. I would of told him no.

On a common wall with an outlet. No outlet in that shared wall's room. I would kill the breaker, take the outlet out of the box. In the back of the box you have punch out's. Take a punch out tab off. Drill a hole centered thru hole into the next wall. They sell boxes with ears on the side. Punch out a hole in the back of the box. Line up the hole with the new box. Pencil around the box to cut an opening.

Now you can power up that new outlet from the original outlet. Same gauge wire. Small piece of conduit with fittings. Back to back. No cords. Not comphy with doing it, call the electrician.

I stand corrected on some of my comments by Digerati and others. If you read ->re-read all the posts. Theory, basic's and understanding what you read. Should help. Some of my theory's were wrong. But in my mind, correct to me. And yes, I over think things sometimes. Better than under-think eh?

My comment on will not pop a breaker should of been might not. Circut breakers are thermal-magnetic.

Digerati, " Motorman" You had around 1,500 hp back then. Now they have up to 6,000 hp.

 

I'm trying to educate myself so I know what's not good, dangerous, and/or hazardous to electronic devices. Next, I am going to pitch my landlady on the situation. Might first try to unite with other tenants. The landlady is not keen on putting money into the property, and I am not keen on push her because I like paying a "below market" rent amount. I'd be ok, though, with rent going up for this.

I think that the landlady is highly unlikely to rewire the entire building, even if I make a good case. So this also serves to learn about other options.

I am also just generally interested in electronics and health/safety.

 

We all gain by learning new things in these categories every chance we get. When anyone quits learning, things get 'stale' . I can understand your situation as per being a non- owner. You can never modify/ re-model/ reconfigure things you know could be better. Your idea of getting the other tenants and the owner thinking of things that could be improved are notable and could lead to a better outcome for everyone involved! Having things done by a licensed and insured / bonded contractor should be a priority when the work involves any utility service. Insurance and liability has to be considered when others have a chance of being subject to the results.