Both Onboard Intel And Pci Express Video Cards Code 43

Discussion in 'Hardware' started by ionEyes, May 30, 2019.

  1. ionEyes

    ionEyes Private E-2

    Hello,

    I have an Intel i7, on an Asus z170 board. It has onboard Intel and PCI Video Cards. The PCI card is a NVidia GTX960 (i think its GTX). Windows 8.1 Professional.

    I've removed the NVidia card and set the BIOS to the onboard.
    Both Code 43 in Windows Device Mangler.

    Sound devices are fine on the NVidia.

    I have ordered a new card already. Not fitted it. I'm wondering if the motherboard is toast ?
    Both Video cards ??? :eek:

    Can someone help salvage a great machine. Media playback is, eh hem, poor to very poor as a result.

    An upgrade to the same version of Windows is taking an age to boot. As this is typed its clocked up about 30 minutes. Hardly Core i7 performance.

    Help please...
     
  2. Replicator

    Replicator MajorGeek

    Maybe Im missing something here?

    You set the bios to run with onboard graphics, what was wrong with the GTX960?

    You ordered a new card, have not fitted it......how do you know its not working??

    Yeh it would be, going from a high end card back to onboard!

    Maybe you could clarify what the heck is going on?
     
  3. Digerati

    Digerati Major Geek Extraordinaire

    Let's start with terminology. PCI is a legacy interface that is slowly being phased out. The GTX 960 graphics card, as seen here, is a "PCI Express" (PCIe) card - "PCIe 3.0" to be precise. It is NOT a PCI card. Despite their similar names, PCIe and PCI are NOT the same or even compatible interfaces and therefore, should never be confused.

    I don't believe you gave us the exact full model number of your motherboard because there are several Z170 boards from ASUS. But if you check the Z170-A specs, you will see it has 6 PCIe slots and 1 PCI. If you meant the Z170 Pro, you can see it does not have any PCI slots at all.

    I'm with Replicator on this one. We need more information. What are your full system specs?

    Sadly, Code 43 is pretty vague indicating only that Windows stopped the device because it has reported problems.

    When you say both video cards, do you mean the GTX 960 and the integrated graphics?

    Did these devices ever work and suddenly stop?
    An upgrade to the "same" version? Note sure what that means. And how are you seeing what is going on.

    For future reference, when it comes to replacing hardware, I always verify I have good power before spending money on replacement hardware. That is, I always swap in a known good power supply to see if the problem remains since everything inside the computer depends on good clean stable power.
     
  4. ionEyes

    ionEyes Private E-2

    Ouch... I have clearly not provided enough information. Please bear with me and I'll supply as much as is requested and needed.

    The NVidia GTX 960 video card was working absolutely fine for about 2 years.

    The motherboard is an Asus z170-A board. It has onboard Intel graphics. Its has a GTX 960 PCIe Graphics card also.
    I did infact suffer a couple power outages, and since then I have had trouble.

    Trouble means that BOTH the onboard intel graphics card and the external PCIe Graphics cards report code 43 in Device Manager.
    From what I can see, the video is not as smooth as it was with the Code 43 being reported at present - this is expected as there is a driver issue (or worse).

    Browsing forums for help has turned up lots of results saying similar things...
    1. sfc /scannow.
    2. windows re-install.
    3. Remove and delete drivers.

    I tried all of this and also went into device manager and deleted the parent device the card was connected to (I cant remember this devices name). This forced windows to re-install devices. All except the onboard video card came back fine.

    I have bought another card, as I was thinking that the NVidia is broken, whereupon I discovered the onboard is also not working.
    My current thoughts are:
    1. The motherboard is now defective.
    2. Some key windows driver is corrupt and so no video card will work until resolved (hence windows re-install, using windows upgrade) I may just wipe the system and reinstall from bare.

    I can post full specs a bit later. Is CPU-Z good enough or similar... ?
     
  5. Digerati

    Digerati Major Geek Extraordinaire

    I still would try another PSU first - especially since you said you had power issues.

    I thought you could post your system specs on this site somewhere but I don't see it. I prefer Speccy (from the makers of CCleaner) to learn all about your computer and publish your specs here.
     
  6. ionEyes

    ionEyes Private E-2

    Hi All,

    Thank you for the help thus far.

    Speccy Results are:
    Summary
    Operating System
    Windows 8.1 Pro 64-bit
    CPU
    Intel Core i7 6700K @ 4.00GHz 30 °C
    Skylake 14nm Technology
    RAM
    16.0GB Dual-Channel Unknown @ 1340MHz (15-17-17-35)
    Motherboard
    ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC. Z170 PRO GAMING (LGA1151) 31 °C
    Graphics
    AAA (1920x1080@64Hz)
    Intel HD Graphics 530 (ASUStek Computer Inc)
    Storage
    465GB Samsung SSD 850 EVO 500GB (SATA (SSD)) 29 °C
    1863GB Western Digital WDC WD20EZRX-00D8PB0 (SATA ) 27 °C
    Optical Drives
    CD-ROM Drive
    Audio
    Realtek High Definition Audio
    Operating System
    Windows 8.1 Pro 64-bit
    Computer type: Desktop

    When I mentioned the power issue, I meant a power outage to the home. Thats where all this trouble started...
    Incidentally a much loved lamp with LED bulb is now also toast thanks to the power outage to the home. Maybe it surged ?
    I say maybe... I had to reset 2 main fuses in the fuse box to the home.... lord knows what that outage was about...
     
  7. ionEyes

    ionEyes Private E-2

    Hello All,

    Thanks for the help. The problem is now sorted. Its fixed.

    I managed to complete a Windows Re-Install over the existing installation and that's fixed it.
    Why sfc /scannow did not achieve the same thing is anyone's guess.

    Thanks again !
     
  8. Digerati

    Digerati Major Geek Extraordinaire

    That's really why re-installing the OS should be a last resort, last ditch effort. While it may fix the problem (it often doesn't), nothing is learned to avoid recurrence of the problem.
    I understood that (I live in Tornado Alley). The problem with power outages typically is not the outage itself (although data corruption from a sudden loss of power is not uncommon). The problem with power outages is when the power is restored. It often is not a clean process but there may be several "flickers" first. It is not uncommon for there to be multiple surges and spikes introduced on the grid and from within the home as major appliances (air conditioners, refrigerators, freezers, etc.) power up. And it is these surges and spikes that can damage power supplies (and LED lights). Just another reason to put all our expensive and sensitive electronics on a "good" UPS with AVR (automatic voltage regulation).
     
    ionEyes likes this.
  9. ionEyes

    ionEyes Private E-2

    Taking note of your advice, I'll be investing in at least a surge protected power arrangement.
    Oddly the lamp is toast, but the LED bulb within it was fine.

    Neighbors reported their router wireless disabled as well. Now also restored after power off.

    I second that, now from the benefit of bitter experience...
     
  10. Digerati

    Digerati Major Geek Extraordinaire

    Surge and spike protectors (S&SP) are better than nothing but remember, if the surge or spike is excessive, the best they do is suddenly kill the power. And for dips (opposite of spikes) and sags (opposite of surges) and brownouts (long duration sags) a S&SP does absolutely nothing.

    Many think of UPS as backup power devices. Providing power during a total power outage is just a minor bonus feature of a good UPS with AVR. It is the AVR that is their most valuable feature and service.

    I use an APC 1500VA UPS on this computer to protect the computer, all my network gear, and two 24" monitors. I also have a decent UPS to protect my big screen TV, DVR, Blu-ray player and AV amp. And another UPS on my garage door opener!
     
  11. ionEyes

    ionEyes Private E-2

    Thank you !

    So, in your view, what is a sensible amount of UPS power ?
    I checked them out after your post and found some producing about 600W, 1100VA.
    That is to protect an Intel i7, 40inch tv and a an amplifier at 500W (max, likely 100W).

    Slightly off topic is the view that AMD CPU's use less power than Intel for the same performance.
    Why aren't AMD laptops more common.
    With all the controversy over Intel parts, various vulnerabilities, I think AMD will feature in my future...
    https://www.technewsworld.com/story/AMD-Slam-Dunks-Intel-at-Computex-and-Its-a-Good-Thing-86048.html
     
  12. Digerati

    Digerati Major Geek Extraordinaire

    That's not easy to answer. Certainly, as a minimum, it needs to be able to support the maximum amount all the connected devices will demand. Even though it would be extremely rare for all the devices to max out demand at the exact same moment, that's what you must plan for - just in case.

    You really cannot have too big a UPS and there are several advantages to buying more than you need. First, the bigger UPS tend to have the better features - to include a very informative LCD monitoring display, faster response times, and more connections in back. Plus the larger the UPS, the longer the battery runtime during full power outages.

    Do note, however, the purpose for an UPS is not so you can keep using your computer or watching your movie for extended periods of time. The purpose is first to protect your connected equipment from surges, spikes, dips, and sags. Power during a full backup is to allow you time to complete your thought and type your sentence, save your open files, close your open applications, and then "gracefully" shutdown Windows and power off your computer.

    If you want to keep using your computer or watching your movie, get a backup generator.

    I note the eXtreme Power Supply Calculator is great for determining your minimum and recommended power supply unit (PSU) requirements. When using to size up your PSU needs, I recommend setting Computer Utilization to 16 hours per day and CPU Utilization to 100%. These steps adjust for capacitor aging and ensure the supply has adequate head room for stress free (and perhaps quieter) operation. These steps also add a little buffer for unplanned future upgrades or added hardware demands.

    This is, by far, the best PSU calculator out there because (1) it is so flexible with almost endless hardware options, and (2) it is the most conservative in its recommendations. Note all PSU calculators pad the results so they don't underestimate the needs as that would be bad. But the eXtreme PSU calc is the most accurate - in part because it is so flexible.

    As a nice extra, this calculator also provides a UPS size recommendation. Just remember this value is based only on the computer components so be sure to add in the demands of any extra devices you may have connected to it.

    As for power, you would have to compare specific CPUs but note just because a CPU has a higher maximum power demand, that does not mean it is drawing more most of the time. So I would not put much stock in that.

    As for the controversy, I would not let that bother me either. If I found an Intel based system that otherwise met my needs, I would not hesitate to get it.
     
    baklogic and ionEyes like this.
  13. ionEyes

    ionEyes Private E-2

    Priceless advice !!!!

    Moral of the story.... fry your video cards once a year and come to Major Geeks and moan about it.

    Take the advice you get... it may be worth more than the dead card !
     
    baklogic and Digerati like this.

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