Building a new computer, Don't want anything bad to happen.

ASUS GTX760-DC2OC-2GD5:250$
MSI Z77A-G43 Gaming LGA 1155 Intel:120$
NZXT GAMMA Classic Series:40$
CORSAIR Builder Series CX430 430W:45$
Toshiba 1TB hard drive:75$
Intel Core i5-3350P Ivy Bridge 3.1GHz:180$
total cost is 710(without tax)

So is this a good build? I just made this build and it had major errors (low internal memory, somebody said bottlenecking) and I don't want that to happen with this build.

 

bump

 

Memory (RAM)?

 

A little soon for a bump.


Good GPU and maker, hard to beat it without going $50-70 more, differences would be slight too.

ASUS and GigaByte are considered to be the best motherboard brands, many consider ASRock to be better than MSI in recent years. If you don't need good overclocking ability, a B75/H77-based 'board would save some $$.

I wouldn't go with that PSU; a PSU is the core of a stable system, SeaSonic/XFX are the best quality throughout their ranges, a 450-520W model from them would be the lowest I'd recommend for this build.

Toshiba hard drive?, if it's a 3.5", you'd be better/safer to go for a WD Blue model.

You don't mention memory (RAM); 4GB bare minimum, 8GB is a good all-round amount; Samsung Green is very good, but you'd be hard pressed to find it anywhere near the release price ; Kingston/Crucial probably the safest bet, select exact model# via their online configurators.

If you wanted more horsepower from the CPU but with the same power usage, the XEON E3 1230 V2 would be a fine upgrade, like an i7 (more cache/hyperthreading) but without the graphics built-in; probably ~$35 more than that i5.

Overall, it's a well-balanced build (assuming you're a gamer).

 

I was going to get 8 gb corsair ram, is that fine?

 

There tends to be more variability across the Corsair RAM lineup compared to Kingston or Crucial, some models are very reliable, others less so.

 

I'm generally with Satrow. I love ASRock boards. On the hard drive, I'd spend a few bucks extra and go with a WD Black series (5 year warranty versus 3 years on the Blue series).

Even if you're buying somewhere else, the user reviews on Newegg and Amazon are the best place to find out what's hot. Don't just rely on the overall rating. Read the reviews in depth. This will often expose board/memory compatibility issues or products with an unusually high DOA rate. Don't rely on brand alone: companies such as WD, ASUS and Gigabyte will have specific models that vary widely in quality and user reviews usually sort out the good from the bad.

 

hey guys, I was wondering if I could rip of of my old rig some corsair Vengance 8gb ram, and an i3 processor. Would it still work on my new rig?

 

It's worth a try; dropping to one of the higher-clocked HT i3's would only drop gaming ability by ~10% compared to the i5-3350P, if the RAM is DDR3 1600, it will probably work, though slower 1333 may be more compatible.

But if they're from the build that had 'major errors', it's possible that the RAM is defective/difficult to set correctly, (much) less likely that the CPU is defective - unless damage was caused by say, a defective/low quality PSU.

So, if they're good and compatible, fine - if they're suspect/damaged, they could take out parts of the new build.

 

Well the rig was a i3 3.3hz, here are the ram specs http://www.corsair.com/us/memory-by-product-family/vengeance/vengeancer-8gb-dual-channel-ddr3-memory-kit-cmz8gx3m2a2133c11b.html,an asus board P8____, gtx 550 ti 1gb ram, 64 gb internal ssd, 2 tb external.(450 watt power supply)

 

The verified owners comments on Newegg for that RAM suggests there are quality control issues: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...aseMark=on&Keywords=(keywords)#scrollFullInfo so that makes them favourite for causing, I'd be very surprised if the i3 was less than perfect.

What make/model is the 'old' PSU?

 

The psu came with a cheap case and it didnt have a company name

 

Ah, sounds like a £12/$15 unit based on an outdated design then, quite possible that it was a major cause of your problems so you may have damaged hardware due to it. It certainly would have caused problems at some stage.

 

I found the motherboard it is an asus p8h61

 

So the previous build/discussion was here: http://forums.majorgeeks.com/showthread.php?t=278109 better to have included that link in the OP, might have saved some questions/answers

We can rule out any major bottlenecking there, GPU/CPU are pretty evenly matched, data I/O would be a different matter, an external drive over USB 2 and often 3, would get bogged down compared to it being connected over eSATA. I've seen LoL playing fine on full HD resolution on a similarly powerful rig to this.



Why don't you just buy a top quality PSU, as discussed earlier, and put it in the old rig to test with a fresh Windows install on the SSD?

If it works without problems for a few days (don't run anything from a USB -connected ext. drive though, that might confuse the issue) with a freshly downloaded LoL, it might be worthwhile to buy an internal SATA drive, like the WD Black suggested by G-Man earlier, for data/game storage and retain the external drive for your weekly backups/System drive clones.

Try to keep close to 20GB free on that SSD, if it's much less than that over extended periods, performance will degrade pretty fast. If it continues to work better than before, money you would have spent on the replacement build can be used for specific upgrades instead.



First thing I'd upgrade would be the SSD, a 240Gb Samsung would be a big improvement in speed, and hold several large games.