Building My Own Desktop

I use my computer 90% for browsing and email client, and I frequently have at least 5 tabs open, which I save for restart. Currently have SeaMonkey, but will likely change to Chrome on new unit. Currently have XP as well. I have a crappy pipeline (Cablevision) which only allows fastest 6/2 mbps on speedcheck. Cablevision advertises "up to" 15 mbps. Don't know if that's because of old computer or not. Another complaint, is that video is very slow, and stops-starts-stalls a lot. There's NO WAY that I can play HD video. Also, if I try to go "full screen" with videos on say, YouTube, get a black screen. I am NOT a gamer. I do not need a lot of storage capacity.

I have plenty of room, and an all-in-one is not needed as the space saved would be wasted. I have no intention of using a all-in-one unless there's another inherent advantage that I'm not aware of. I have a 2 year old 21" diag Hanns-G flat panel that works well for me. I'd like to keep it, if I can.

Here's a few items that I have in mind for the build. Please tell me if I'm on the right rack, or not. The major problem I'm having, is trying to decide on which mainboard to use, especially as relates to the best chipset for my needs. On board audio is fine, as long as 5.1 is available on board. Touch screen is not needed, although I might be convinced by a valid argument.

1. 60 Gb solid state HDD for boot drive and OS (faster boot time?)
2. 1 Tb SATA 7200 RPM HDD
3. Intel i7-4770 processor, 8 mb cache
4. Single user Win 8.1 non-pro
5. Word processor/spreadheet/slide show program (Mic Office??)
6. Mainboard??
7. 16GB DDR3-1600MHz RAM
8. Sound card (if needed)??
9. Video card ??
10. Would like to use existing Hanns-G HL 227 21" flat panel display
11. Wireless mouse
12 Wireless keyboard
13. Will use existing 5.1 surround speakers
14. Re use floppy drive
15. Re use CD RW/DVD
16. Re-use CD/DVD-RW
17. Will get new compact (14" tall) case/transformer/fan unit

Thank you.
Joe

 

Go at least 120GB on a SSD.
Onboard video should be OK for HD and Youtube since you'll br running 16GB of RAM.
Most Motherboards have at least 5.1 channel output onboard.
I wouldn't bother with the floppy drive even if your motherboard has the connector.
Beware of PSU/case combos because they like to cheap out on the PSU. Here is a link for a PSU calculator to make sure you have enough juice for all your hardware: http://extreme.outervision.com/psucalculatorlite.jsp
I've no specific recommendations for a motherboard but Gigabyte and ASUS have been good to me.

 

You stated the purpose of this new machine, but sadly, you did not state your budget. A new monitor, especially if a touch screen, will certainly affect the budget.

I agree, go for at least 120Gb SSD. Then you can install the OS, all your hardware drivers, and all your applications on the SSD and still have plenty of free space for Windows (and the Windows managed Page File) to operate in.

I recommend you find a motherboard you like first, then use the motherboard's QVLs (qualified vendors lists) to select a compatible CPU and RAM. You MUST buy a listed CPU, but there are too many RAM makers and models for motherboard makers to test them all. So you don't have to buy listed RAM, but you MUST buy RAM with the same specs as listed RAM. I prefer Gigabyte boards. You don't have to get a high-end motherboard, but if you avoid the entry level, budget boards, you will get a board with lots of options and features, including upgraded audio and graphics.

I also agree to get a good PSU - even if it means you toss out one that comes with a case. I like Antec and Corsair PSUs, and I like Antec cases.

With 16Gb of RAM (a good choice, BTW, assuming a dual-channel memory architecture motherboard), make sure you select 64-bit Windows 8.

I also agree that integrated graphics will suffice just fine. It should be noted that more and more systems are being integrated into home theater systems and used to watch Blu-ray and other HD content, as PVRs, and the like with no problems. And on-board sound as been quite good for some time too.

As for the eXtreme PSU calculator, I generally recommend planning ahead and plug in all the hardware you think you might have in 2 or 3 years (extra drives, bigger or 2nd video card, more RAM, etc.). Be sure to read and heed the notes at the bottom of the calculator page. I recommend setting Capacitor Aging to 10% and setting both TDP and system load to 100%. These steps ensure the recommended supply has adequate head room for stress free (and perhaps quieter) operation, as well as future hardware demands. Setting Capacitor Aging to 30% will provide an even nicer amount of headroom. And remember, the computer’s components will only draw what they need, not what the PSU is capable of delivering. And the PSU will only draw from the wall what the computer demands, plus another 15 - 30% due to PSU inefficiencies. Buying way too big hurts only the budget. Make sure you buy a supply from a reputable maker and that it is 80 PLUS certified. As noted above, I prefer Corsair and Antec PSUs.

Also, once you decide on a motherboard, I would urge you to download the manual from the motherboard maker's website. Then you can read up on the installation procedures and precautions and be familiar with all the ports and connections. Common self-build mistakes are extra standoffs mounted in the case under the motherboard, improper ESD (electro-static discharge) control, failure to connect ALL the necessary power connections, improper mounting of CPU and HSF mounting mechanism, and inserting RAM in wrong slots for proper dual or triple channel memory enabling.

@Just Playin and those interested, eXtreme Outer Vision, the makers of that PSU calculator, are currently offering a promotion for a lifetime subscription to the Pro version for only $4.99! The free version is great, the pro version is even better with more hardware options, plus the pro version calculates UPS needs.

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Merry Christmas & [COLOR="#000FF"]Happy[/COLOR] [COLOR="#00800"]New[/COLOR] Year!​

 

An i7-4770 cpu is overkill for Email and Browsing, an i3-4340 (dual core cpu with hyper threading) will be just as good and it's much cheaper.

Video card - Onboard graphics are good enough for non gaming tasks, Youtube and other videos online will play just fine even in HD.

Sound card - Most motherboards come with 5.1 Surround these days.

Word/Office/Slideshow Program - This is up to user preference to be honest, Before spending any money on Microsoft Office I'd suggest downloading LibreOffice (link below) and give it a go. It's free, open source and constantly under development. It almost everything you'd find in Microsoft Office so you might save some money on this one.

LibreOffice download link: http://www.majorgeeks.com/files/details/libreoffice_productivity_suite.html


EDIT: Regarding Antec PSU's, I have an Antec TruePower 750w for the past 3 years and it rocks, very good brand I highly recommend it.

 

Thank you. I will tone down my power.

Here is a VERY BIG CONCERN, and need to know whether or not a new computer will solve it. I have a crappy pipeline (Cablevision) which only allows fastest 6/2 mbps on speedcheck. Cablevision advertises "up to" 15 mbps. Don't know if that's because of old computer or not. Because of this, "streaming" can be a problem.

Another complaint, is that video is very slow, and stops-starts-stalls a lot. There's NO WAY that I can play HD video from my camera.

Finally, if I try to go "full screen" with videos on say, YouTube, get a black screen and no video, only sound. Why is this?

 

The bandwidth provided by your ISP will not change with a new computer. However, a new computer will likely process the data faster and "appear" to make the Internet faster.

Your other problems are different from "Building My Own Desktop". I recommend you start a new thread for them.