Car Insurance Costs?

Don't have the same vehicles as you do so can't compare premiums on that. There are lots of insurance companies in the US with lots of different options on policies.
We get a discount for being claim free and having multiple vehicles, plus having home owners policy with same insurance company.
If you have teen drivers it cost a lot more. If you have multiple traffic tickets it goes up. If you have a wreck you caused it goes up for a few years. If you have a DUI it really goes up. Thankfully we don't have any of these.
Where you live, the vehicle model and year, and your annual mileage can increase your policy premiums.
Sorry that is not of much help.

 

My 2014 cost 107$ a month with geico.I have been with them for over 3 years.

I use to have state farm which was ripping me off on a 16 year old car.

 

I've got a 2001 Pontiac Grand Am, and for comprehensive I pay around $900/year. As soon as Mom's license expires and we move her to a state ID it'll go down a little, and I get a bunch of discounts (paid in full, member of a credit union, anti-theft system, good credit rating, a couple other things I don't remember offhand).

 

We have a Volvo V50 turbo and it is in the performance bracket and for full comprehensive cover we pay about $500/year. We have the perfect no claim bonus. It is unaffected if you make less than three claims in any 2 year period but to get this deal you have to have had no claims for >5 years and have your vehicle continuously insured by the same company.
My daughter's Mazda CX-7 turbo is also in our name and she is named as the regular driver. Because she is under 25, full comprehensive cover would have costed her just over $1400/year but having it in our name and having her as a listed driver then the premium is down to $650.

Comprehensive car insurance is a rip off in Australia but what do you do when you have a nice car. Better to pay as you never know when you might need it

 

2009 Toyota Sienna mini van. 9235 miles. Yes that's correct.
Geico for one year a little over $700 a year. Includes roadside service.

 

Would have to agree with Joffa that vehicle insurance is not really 'hip-pocket' friendly here in Oz, but there are some high-tech ways nowadays that will save you $$ on premiums if you do your homework.
Different Insurance Co. will offer varying ways to save of-course, so research is imperative to suit ones own individual style, or rather, driving habits.

No claims bonus discounts seem to be going out of fashion today with most companies as they add new ways you can save.
Many insurance company premiums are now based on your driving habits solely now.....in other words, how safely you drive, how often often you drive and the time of day that most driving is done, as well as the area of driving.

One may ask how do they police this type of policy?
The 'high-tech' discounts i refer too are what they call an 'Insurance Box'. QBE offer it here in Oz.
Basically its a company supplied little blue box that plugs into your OBD port under your dash. The same port service technicians use to diagnose your vehicles fault issues.
It records data such as speed, distance travelled, area usage via GPS and even braking pressure applied....pretty much like a black box flight recorder.
You simply upload the data to their website on a monthly basis and your premiums are accessed accordingly.... and the savings can be quite significant if you live in a country area, are retired, and only drive perhaps a few times a week!

Dashcams are also a big plus however, the saving here is not such much 'premium based' but rather cost 'Excess' based on any claims.
You may be able to get out of paying any excess on your policy in an accident, if you can supply footage of the incident proving that it was not your fault.

Another cool high-tech solution is what Budget Direct call 'Hail Hero'.
Its a warning system that sends a txt to your phone to warn you when hail is on the way to the suburb you live in and provided when you sign up for your policy.
Its designed to give you at least 10 minutes warning so as your able to move your vehicle under cover.

If your vehicle is fitted with Autonomous Emergency Braking (AEB), some companies will also give you a rather generous rebate off the premiums you pay ( ie NRMA).

Fitted vehicle Tracking devices are also in the loop by some companies here in order to save you $$ and are especially useful for premiums involving Theft of your car.

It pays to do your research guys, and I know its a PITA, but always read your policy 'fine print'!

 

My 2001 has something like 9725 on it.

 

I dunno.....should a driver living in the country who is lucky to see a car on his way to the store, pay the same premiums as a city accountant in traffic 4 hours per day?

Risk v's Reward i guess!

 

Now we seriously must talk about this LR....

Edit: Don't make any extremely rash decisions

 

Do his golf clubs go on the market next?? LOL J/K

 

Compromise!
Suggest he trades it in on an Audi S5 or RS5 cabriolet.

 

US here. I have a company called metromile. They charge a low rate and then a per mile cost. It's really good if you don't drive many miles.

 

I posted on your profile.

 

The only thing i hate about these newer cars any more,Is the ABS system,It sucks badly.

I remember back in the day.Cars did not have all this safety crap.And there were less truck and car accident's.

I disable my ABS fuse in the winter.

 

You can't be serious. Only the world's best race car drivers can outperform ABS.

There were less trucks and cars...

 

Not true.

 

Prove me wrong.

 

Ive been driving for 18 years.It's not that hard to do.If you are use to driving older cars that don't have ABS.They just feel like normal breaks.The only thing ABS breaks are pretty much meant for,is they are suppose to help prevent from your breaks locking up.I never have had any breaks lock up on me even during winter.That is with both ABS on and off.

ABS off just act like normal breaks.You just have to learn not to over pump them.I have had a few close calls be cause of ABS would not stop pressing the breaks going down a steap ICY hill.

I feel ABS is more dangerous then normal breaks.

 

You're wrong and I've been driving twice that long, if you want to play that card. Yeah, I learned to drive when you were learning to stop pooping in your pants. I doubt I'm the only one, either.
Automobile deaths are dropping in spite of more drivers, more cars and more miles.
https://i.postimg.cc/R010T626/US_traffic_deaths_per_VMT_VMT_per_capita_and_total_annual_dea.png
I'm curious to know what vehicle you were driving down that aforementioned icy hill in which the brakes engaged without your input.

 

If you are involved in a motor vehicle accident, and the assessor finds that you have tampered with the ABS, your claim will be null and void.
If someone is injured, or dies, in the accident, you will be in deep trouble.

I started driving in 1980 and obtained my first driving license the following year.

 

Sounds like you were using an older ABS version but it still worked rapidly enough that it fooled you.

You only get the 'pumping' on/off sequence when ABS detects a loss of grip/lockup on one or more wheels; as it detects a lockup, it releases and almost immediately reapplies the brakes, effectively slowing/stopping the vehicle more efficiently than you can without ABS under most slippery on-road conditions.

I used cadence braking during my driving test's emergency stop scenario, downhill into a shaded road section with embankments rising on either side and damp leaves.

 

My insurance on a 2017 Camry is about $1400/year USD (good driving record, but insured up to 1M liability and medical).

What sucks is that, in Houston, auto insurance went up 15-20% across the board this year. Over 500,000 (yes, half a million) cars got written off by insurance after Hurricane Harvey. Even though I've never flooded, I still have to pay.