Cmos Battery Not Connecting...

I have a ASROCK 4Core1600-GLAN motherboard 4GB ram running win 10 pro.
Changed the heatsink fan because it was too dirty to clean and while I was about it replaced the CR2032 battery because I had a spare.
Unfortunately the battery hasn't responded as I was hoping. Every time I boot up the system I have to enter the BIOS F2 and reset the time...
I had an extra battery which I replaced this morning. levering up the metal contacts on the base of the battery holder. Just to ensure contact but to no avail. Still have to press F2 on startup - though restart works as it should without insisting I open the Bios.
Have I broken something? Or what should I look for?
Can I solder a new battery in place?
The computer works fine once started but I would like to solve this riddle if possible.
Thanks for the suggestions,
s.

 

Soldering batteries typically are not a good idea because it requires too much heat to make the solder bond to the battery. And that heat can then damage the battery, or the battery socket. Did you damage the battery socket when you pried out the old battery? While rare (I think twice in 25 years), I have had a bad CMOS battery right out of the new packaging. Have you tried a third or the original battery? Do not touch the new battery with your bare skin as skin oils promote corrosion and attract dust. I put a clean cotton sock over my hand. If re-inserting an old battery, be sure to clean it with the sock first.

Are you selecting "Save" and Exit after you set the date and time?

And most importantly, are you unplugging the computer from the wall and touching bare metal of the case interior to discharge any static in your hand BEFORE reaching into your computer innards and touching anything else?

I don't understand how a heatsink can be "too dirty" to clean. A blast of compressed air is typically all you need. If not enough, a soft brush with a blast of compressed air. And that can be done without removing the heatsink. But if the cooler has been neglected for too long, and it has been caked with dust and dirt along with oily pet hair and dander (cats are the worst) and/or cigarette smoke residues, then you can pull the cooler, remove the fan and dump the heatsink in a sink full of hot soapy water or even run it through the dishwasher. The dishwasher soap may discolor the anodized finish but it will thoroughly clean it without degrading the heatsink's heat transfer efficiency.

Did you ensure you connected the heatsink fan power connector properly?

 

Thank you Digerati, I will try again with a new Duracel that I picked up on fleabay. When postie arrives tom. I shall wear cotton gloves - if I can find them...

F10 and YES usually sorts it. If I restart after setting the time within Windows 10 and then open the Bios the correct time and date is showing. If I shut down and then Boot up the time is back to 3 seconds past 00:00

Yes I am doing that.

The machine had been running 32 bit XP for about 6 years. I have turned it into a 64 bit Windows 10 machine and I thought I should have a close look at the state of the heatsink. A new one Alpine GT Rev.2 was less than £10 from the above mentioned auction site. I thought it was worth the investment.

Yes but I had to clean off the thermal compound and use some Arctic silver 5. The power connector was relatively simple.
Thanks for the advice.
I have just found some more CR2032 that are okay untill December 2017.
I think I will wait until postie arrives in the morning.
s.

 

Solved....
Thought I would try again with some batteries I just found. Okay to Dec 2017.
The connector holding in the battery had been pushed back too far. I had heavy handily taken the old battery out when the damaged was done. I now used a small piece of copper wire that I wrapped tightly and pushed it between the metal connector and the top of the cr2032. Things are again the way they should be.
And I found my cotton gloves.
Best wishes,
s.

 

Then if the battery is good and the date and time are getting reset, your motherboard has a fault, and it is not likely it can be repaired. There are ways to automatically set the date and time at boot, see https://www.raymond.cc/blog/auto-sync-pc-clock-on-windows-startup/.

FTR, EVERY time you pull a heatsink, you need to clean the surfaces and apply a fresh new, as thin as possible layer of TIM (thermal interface material). Yes, the fan power connector is simple - in fact, it is so simple, it is easy to install it one pin off!

Not all computers capable of running such an old OS as XP are able to support such a modern OS as W10. You were lucky if this is your only problem.

 

Ah, I replied to your first reply before even looking at your second where you said it was resolved. Glad you got it going and thanks for posting your followup.

 

Thank you Digerati for your responses but all is well. As I mentioned in #4 the problem lay in the contact with the top of the battery (-). Sorted with some copper wire wedged to make the connection.

The first time I tried to connect the new heatsink I used the paste that came attached. Temperatures rose to new heights so I cleaned it all off both the processor and the heatsink and used a pea size of Arctic Silver 5. As I write the running temperature of the CPU is 46 Celsius and I have other programs also running viz;TVcenter.

Yes I am lucky to have Windows 10 running on this machine. They stopped improving the Bios many years ago but you don't get anywhere without trying. I remember being told that I wouldn't be able to run a SSD dive on XP. It's true that they weren't invented until after XP was mainstream but I did and it worked a treat.
I do have one ongoing problem with my system-board even though I have been using Windows 10 for over 3 months.
When I shut down the desktop the fans still keep running. Windows 10 shuts down as it should and my monitor turns off but I have to take the mains power cord out of the PSU.
I did have this problem back in the days of XP but for some reason it righted itself. It has only happened in the last month after I replaced the 300W PSU for a 400W new model. The old one was making strange noises and was filthy as ...
Thanks again for your comments.
Best wishes,
s.

 

Yeah, the reason why you always have to clean the mating surfaces and replace the TIM is because TIM cures over the first few hours after application and after a few heat up and cool down cycles. Plus, the TIM that is on the edges and exposed to the air can collect dust and harden, then if reused, not fill in the spaces properly. It is important to note the purpose of TIM is to fill in the microscopic pits and valleys in the mating surfaces so no insulating air can be trapped there. The best heat transfer occurs between direct metal to metal contact so any excess TIM is actually in the way and counterproductive to the most efficient transfer of heat. This is why as thin a layer as possible is so important.

Anyway, thanks again for the update.

 

Turned on the desktop this morning and had to press F2 to Boot. Time had returned to 00.00. I've seen this before..

Replaced the copper wire that I had wedged into place with a larger piece along with a new battery.
It works again...
Should I stick the wire into place with some wire glue?
All conditions are transient.
Best wishes,
s.
I

 

Frankly, IMO, the motherboard needs to be replaced. Jamming a piece of wire in there is a "Mickey Mouse" Band-Aid patch.

That said, replacing the motherboard is an expensive ordeal. Unless you can find an exact replacement, you could end up needing a new CPU and RAM too. And a new motherboard is also considered a new computer for software licensing purposes. So you would need a new Windows license and perhaps new licenses for some of your other software too.

So, you absolutely need to secure that piece of wire so it cannot fall out. You don't want a piece of metal loose inside your electronics. The problem I see with the wire glue is that it might prevent the removal or insertion of a battery, should it need replacing again. So IF you can glue it in without interfering with that (or the needed spring tensioning of the battery holder), then fine. Otherwise, I might suggest using a glue gun to apply a dab of hot glue. That should keep the battery securely in place but allow you to dig out the glue with a toothpick or something similar if you need to replace the battery or reset the BIOS by pulling the battery again.

 

Thank you for your honesty. To me it was/is a working procedure. I would love a new motherboard but totally unable to afford one. Whilst it was running 32bit Xp I used to get frequent BSOD but haven't seen any in the last 3 months on 64bit Windows 10. In truth I spent a few pounds yesterday getting a USB 3.0 PCI-E board.

Absolutely and for that reason I have covered it with some electrical tape. But it does get a little warm and that stuff doesn't stick too well.

Thank you Digerati, I do hear what you are saying. Perhaps rather than wedge the copper wire to make contact, I cut a couple of inches of wire. Attach one end by wire glue to the metallic connection holding the battery in place. Gluing the other end to the top of the battery. I would then be able to replace the battery by gutting the wire. Although the new battery is best before 2025. Hopefully by then I will have found a new m/b.
Thank you for your direction,
s.

 

Don't misunderstand me. I did not mean "Mickey Mouse" as a criticism. It's actually pretty clever. I've used bubble gum and duct tape to temporarily patch an oil leak before! And it worked long enough to get my truck home.

The inside of your computer should not get so warm it would melt hot glue.

Wow! That's a long ways out. That said, I have had brand new batteries with dates a long ways out that were bad right out of the package.

The worry is just the wire coming loose. Heavy foot falls, drive and fan motors, kicks and bumps over time may cause enough vibration that it works free. I generally recommend inspecting the case interior for dust build up and fans spinning every month or two. Making sure that wire is still secure is something to add to your list.

 

I used fibre-glass in place of a cast iron gutter attachment...

The joy of computers,
I did buy some wire glue. Sounds like the sort of thing to have at the ready...
Best wishes,
s.

 

I've never used it. But note it could be like many like glues and TIM (thermal interface material) and that is it lasts forever once applied properly, or in the unopened tube. But once you open the tube, the stuff you don't use is no good next time you need it.

 

I agree. Been there...
My knowledge with regards to the glue is that it takes 12 hours to set. My {not so cleaver} thought recons that it should still be usable If I'm quick with putting the cap back on.
Probably wrong though.
Kind regards,
s.

 

Yeah, so should my crazy glue.