Computer keeps on rebooting, uugh!

Discussion in 'Software' started by mongooseba, Jan 16, 2011.

  1. mongooseba

    mongooseba Corporal

    Hi All,

    I have a new issue with another computer. The computer "hung-up" and had to disconnect the power supply. Tried to restart the computer, it boots, and the a screen would appear that requires me to safe boot, etc, restore back to last know setting, and restart normally. Tried all the cominations, but the computer keeps restarting and going back to this screen.

    What should I do? Should I post this to the Malware section? Thanks a lot in advance and look forward to your help.

    Regards,
    Mongooseba:-o
     
  2. gman863

    gman863 MajorGeek

    First, be sure any CD/DVD discs are removed from the optical drive(s) and any USB storage devices (ext. HDD, thumb drive, card reader, etc) are disconnected. This may sound too obvious; however it's something I've overlooked in the past.

    If more than one internal HDD is installed, go into BIOS setup and be sure the drive with the OS is set as the default boot drive.

    If you have a Windows install disk, attempt to boot the PC with the disk inserted in the CD/DVD drive. If it boots to the initial setup screen, it indicates the problem is with the OS on the HDD (cancel out of the install and it won't affect what is currently on the drive).

    If using Win 7 or Vista, the OEM DVD "repair" option will usually repair corrupt boot issues. XP is tougher - the "repair" option on it is iffy at best. In a worst possible case, you may have to remove the HDD, copy any files that aren't already backed up then do a clean install.

    Hope this helps. :)
     
  3. mongooseba

    mongooseba Corporal

    Hi Gman863,

    Thanks for the quick reply.

    1. Disconnected all the external drives except for the monitor, keyboard, and mouse. Same problem.

    2. I'm able to go to the BIOS.
    The following are seen:


    1. ATAPI CD-ROM - Plextor CD-R
    2. Removable Device - Legacy Floppy
    3. IDE Hard Drive - Hitachi HD 332132 PLX
    4. Other Boot Device - INT Device (network)

    Plug and Play o/s - No
    Reset Config Data - No
    Boot Virus Detection - Enabled
    Quick Power on Self Test - Enabled
    Boot up Floppy Seek - Enabled
    Interrupt Mode - APIC

    Are the setting correct? Should I proceed with #3 recommendation? Thanks again.

    Mongooseba
     
  4. mongooseba

    mongooseba Corporal

    Hi Gman863,

    Tried the third method. I'm able to get tot he Windows XP Pro Screen - "Welcome to Setup." What should I do next. Please advise. As a side question, why am I not able to boot a rescue disk with an ISO bootable disk on the current configuration?

    Thanks.

    Mongooseba
     
  5. gman863

    gman863 MajorGeek

    I tell clients (and, unfortunately, it's the truth) there is both computer theory and computer reality.

    Although, in theory, you should be able to boot a rescue disk the reality is that XP - once it passes the tipping point of not booting from the HDD - is almost impossible to "repair". The few times I attempted it it either failed or the system was so corrupted/unstable it made the repair useless.

    This being said, my advice is to wipe the drive and start over with a clean install of XP.

    • If there is any data (files, music, pictures, etc) on the HDD that hasn't been backed up, remove the drive, connect it to another PC and make copies of the files (if this isn't an issue, skip to the next step).
    • To be on the safe side, download Malware Bytes from the download section. Do a full scan of the PC/Drive you transferred the files to just in case malware caused the problem (if the files are already copied onto a backup drive, scan the backup. If it's a compressed backup, scan the files immediately after reloading them at the final step).
    • Download the mfr. drive utilities software (SeaTools, Data Lifeguard, etc.) and do a long/deep scan of the old drive (If you can't find a mfr. specific program SeaTools will do a read-only test on any brand HDD). If you see any bad sectors (even if the utilities pgm. repairs them), my advice is to replace the drive. Once bad sectors start the drive's reliability goes downhill quickly (don't rely on "chkdsk", a long test will catch errors a quick test misses).
    • Be sure you have the license/activation codes for Windows and any software (Office, etc.). If not, download a license keyfinder program and use it to scan the drive before disconnecting it from the second PC (be sure you get the codes off the "old" HDD, not the one being used to rescue the data).
    • Ditto for having the Windows and software install disks.
    • Reinstall the HDD in the old PC and reinstall Windows, software, anti-virus, etc.

    Yes, this is time consuming; however it is the only almost foolproof way of assuring the PC will be stable (the "almost" is in the event the HDD controller on the board is bad; however since you're able to get to the "Install Windows" part this is unlikely).

    Good luck on solving the problem.
     
  6. mongooseba

    mongooseba Corporal

    Hi gman863,

    All right. I shall embark upon this task.
    Kindly provide details as to how to
    1. How to make and connect the affected hard drive so that it can be a slave drive on another computer?
    2. How do you use Magic Jellybean to find the codes on the affected drive?

    Thanks.
    Mongooseba
     
  7. gman863

    gman863 MajorGeek

    If it is a SATA, the easiest way is to open the case on the "rescue" PC and use a SATA cable to connect it to an open SATA port. If IDE (and there is an open secondary/slave spot on one of the IDE cables), connect it there. On IDE, be sure it is connected as a secondary/slave and not a primary drive. If this causes boot issues on the rescue PC, you may have to go into the rescue PC's BIOS and clarify it is a secondary/slave HDD.

    If this isn't possible, use an external drive case or USB external adapter.

    For Magic Keyfinder, download and extract the files then follow the following step from Magic Keyfinder's "Help>FAQ":

    Q: Can I retrieve the product key from a non-booting Windows installation?
    As long as both Windows versions are 2000, XP, 2003, or Vista, you can use the Load Hive function. You will have to slave the drive and point the Keyfinder to the non-booting Windows directory.


    More information can be found by starting the program and clicking on "Help".
     
  8. mongooseba

    mongooseba Corporal

    Hi gman863,

    I have disconnected the hard drive and it is a Hitachi 164G drive - ATA/IDE/PATA. I've figured out how to configure the jumper cables to make it a slave drive. I'm planning to get a USB/PATA cable to activate this drive. Am I suppose to configure this drive on a slave mode when using the USB/PATA cable?

    Will this work for me?
    http://www.amazon.com/Drive-Adapter...1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1295422135&sr=1-1

    Is $9 a good price?

    Thanks.
    Mongooseba
     
  9. gman863

    gman863 MajorGeek

    The least expensive option (if there's an open IDE port on the rescue PC motherboard) is to use a standard IDE (80-pin ribbon) cable and connect directly to the motherboard.

    If you want or need to use the drive adapter route, get a good quality one. The model in the link above has "iffy" reviews. A lesser quality adapter may not recognize the drive at all (been there, done that :banghead ).
    The model I would go with (based on both experience and the Amazon reviews) is:

    http://www.amazon.com/2-5-3-5IN-Kin...?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1295467866&sr=1-47

    Although about $22 w/ shipping, the time and headaches it will save you are worth it. It's also a good investment since it works with all sizes of IDE and SATA drives. If in a hurry, you might be able to find this model at a local computer parts store such as Fry's or MicroCenter.

    Follow the instructions included with the adapter to determine if the drive should be set to master or slave.

    Let me know how things go.
     
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2011
  10. mongooseba

    mongooseba Corporal

    Hi gman863,

    Thanks for the update on the driver adapter. Will place the order for the better version. Meanwhile, I was able to try out the drive on a spare IDE cable on my other computer. The windows program "chkdsk" the affected drive and cleaned it up automatically. I converted the affected drive back to "master" drive and reassembled it back to the chassis. It booted back and was able to read all the information.

    I've saved all the date and also got the windows keys. I'm ready to reformat. What should I do next? I believe this is the best choice considering the disk was damaged some where. What do you think?

    Mongoosba
    rolleyes
     
  11. gman863

    gman863 MajorGeek

    It depends. If the computer is used for "critical" things where another failure like this would cause a hardship, I would consider buying a replacement HDD before you reload everything. Given it's an IDE drive it's likely older; you'll have to decide if the $60 or so for a new drive is worth it.

    If reusing the old drive, simply hook things back up and use the Windows Install CD to do a new (not repair) install. This will wipe out everything on the drive; be sure you've backed up all files before doing this. On this route, if the system messes up again, it's a likely sign you'll need to replace the drive and start over.

    Either way, be sure to back up your files on a regular basis.
     
  12. mongooseba

    mongooseba Corporal

    Hi gman863,

    The computer is important so I need to purchase a new hard drive. Should I purchase a SATA drive and install it on the IDE cable? Is my computer too old that I need to purchase an older type of IDE drive? What speed should I be looking out for? Any suggestions?

    Mongooseba
     
  13. gman863

    gman863 MajorGeek

    Unless you have SATA ports built into the board stick with an IDE (also called a "PATA") drive.

    Do not use SATA>IDE add-in cards or drive adapters on a boot drive; they often cause boot-up problems.

    Best deal I found on an IDE/PATA drive:

    http://www.amazon.com/Western-Digit...R&s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1295573382&sr=1-8

    This is listed as a PATA drive (another term for IDE). Amazon has free shipping and - if DOA - they pay the return shipping within the first 30 days.
     
  14. mongooseba

    mongooseba Corporal

    Hi gman863,

    Thanks again. Good deal.
    After all this hassle, should I buy a new system instead or make one? What are your thoughts on this?

    Mongoosba:-o
     
  15. gman863

    gman863 MajorGeek

    What are the specs on your current PC (processor, memory, etc) and how old is it?
     
  16. mongooseba

    mongooseba Corporal

    Hi gman863,

    Pentium 4, 2.53 Ghz, 1.5GB RAM, XP Pro, (?) 5 -6 years. What's the diagnosis?

    Mongoosba:-o
     
  17. sach2

    sach2 Major Geek Extraordinaire

    Is everything working back in the original PC? You can boot XP and things are running OK? Then I don't see the reason to reformat. It sounds like chkdsk was able to correct the problem.
     
  18. gman863

    gman863 MajorGeek

    If you only use it for the basics (e-mail, web browsing, Word) it may be worth hanging on to for another 1-2 years. Although it's a dinosaur by today's standards, it's only obsolete if it is too slow to accomplish what you want to use it for.

    Ask 20 people what the "best" PC build is and you'll likely get 20 different answers. The right answer is based on what you want to use it for and how much you can afford.

    This is the board/CPU/Memory combo on my latest build. Unless you plan on playing in an online Call Of Duty national tournament or creating advanced 3D animation, it should have more than enough power for several years.

    I'm pricing this from NewEgg:

    Motherboard (basic but with the newest technology: HDMI, DDR3, USB3, SATA3)
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131673
    $85.00

    AMD Quad Core CPU (includes heatsink/CPU fan)
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103871
    $100.00

    Memory - 4GB
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820211409
    No, that's not a typo. It's $45 for two 2GB sticks, 4GB total!

    DVD+RW Drive
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827135204
    $20

    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136795
    $60 (SATA3 will transfer data up to 60 TIMES faster than your IDE!)

    Video - on board

    Case and Power Supply: Personal preference. Be sure the PSU has good customer ratings, 400 watts or greater. A decent example would be:
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119210
    $60

    Windows 7
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832116754
    $100

    Total: $480 (assuming you reuse your keyboard, mouse and monitor)
     
  19. gman863

    gman863 MajorGeek

    This is true; however I would still do daily backups and watch it carefully. The age of the drive combined with my personal experience equals a feeling the HDD may be on its last legs.
     
  20. mongooseba

    mongooseba Corporal

    Hi GMan 863 and Sach2,

    Ran the computer for the past week or so. It runs well. The CHK Disk fn worked. Will take GMan 863 comment that the drive can fail in the future. So I've decided to back-up the drive and not store any thing important on the drive. Let it go for a few months and see what happens. If this fails again ... adios to the hard drive and junk the computer for a new one. Thanks for all your input and for saving my disk.

    Great Job.

    Mongooseba:-D
     

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