Computer "stutters" When Doing Anything

Hello all Major Geeks! I have quite the issue. My computer stutters, meaning my computer freezes for 10-15 seconds and then resumes as if nothing happened. Here is the backstory to this. I had purchased the hardware in 2013. I'm using the AMD FX8350 with a socket am3+ mobo. The power supply is the Thermaltake Blackwidow 850w PSU. I have had to replace the mobo, cpu, and ram twice already. What I want to know is why my mobo and cpu keep failing. Do you think it's a PSU issue or could I just have gotten 2 refurbished hardware failures back to back?

 

I would say there might be an issue with the motherboard not being grounded properly.

Have you checked all of your screws on the motherboard to make sure they are tight but not to tight.You might have to loosen some of them.They can create a spark and short out the motherboard if they are to tight.

This can be one of many possibility's.

 

I will have to try that when I get home but I'm afraid after 2 motherboards that can't be the issue. I had the same issue with the previous cpu/mobo

 

I would certainly suspect power first so I would try a spare, known good PSU. In fact, if me, after all those different hardware failures, I would just replace the PSU as a matter of principle. While your PSU's actual output voltages may be well within the allowed ±5% tolerances, there may be excessive ripple and/or other anomalies that are not being properly suppressed. There is no way "normal" users can test for excessive ripple without an oscilloscope or real power supply analyzer - sophisticated and expensive test equipment requiring special training to operate, and a basic knowledge of electronics theory to understand the results. Therefore, conclusively testing a power supply is done in properly equipped electronics repair facilities leaving swapping in a known good spare a "normal" users only recourse.

And you need to make sure all your connections and motherboard mounting screws are tight and secure.

You also need to test your house wiring. Every home and every computer user should have access to a AC Outlet Tester to ensure your outlet is properly wired and grounded. I recommend one with a GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupt) indicator as it can be used to test bathroom and kitchen outlets too. These testers can be found for your type and voltage outlet, foreign or domestic, at most home improvement stores, or even the electrical department at Wal-Mart. Use it to test all the outlets in the house and if a fault is shown, have it fixed by a qualified electrician.

A motherboard not being grounded properly to the case is pretty tough since ground is established through virtually every power connector and through each motherboard mounting point to the case. If there was an extra standoff or other foreign object under the motherboard shorting out the board, it is likely you would see immediate problems - like the computer would not boot. If this is a custom built computer, it might be worth pulling the board and making sure there is only a standoff where there is a corresponding motherboard mounting hole.

Too tight would not cause sparks. There really is no such thing as too tight when it comes to grounding unless it caused the motherboard to warp, twist and bend so far out of being flat that it somehow made contact with the case at some point other than a mounting point. But that would be virtually impossible too since all motherboards typically mount on 6, at the very least, standoffs just to ensure the board is flat and remains flat, even when pressing down to insert power plugs.

Screwing in a mounting screw too tight MIGHT crack the solder ring around a mounting point and that would not be good. But you would really have to be a brute as typically the solder "mushes" (since it is made of soft metal alloys) long before it cracks and provides a good "feel" when tight enough. But even if cracked, it would not crack so completely that it "opens" the grounding circuit. It would crush the motherboard first. And even so, loosing the screw will not fix that and may introduce other problems, like interference (see below). And there would still be at least 5 more motherboard ground points through the other mounting points, and several more ground points through the power and data cables.

Proper electrical continuity ALWAYS requires a proper and tight mechanical connection first.

A loose ground is never good! In high voltage situations, it can even be deadly as arcing can occur, resulting in fire or electrocution. Arcing results in carbon build up - in low voltage circuits too. Resistors are made primarily of carbon so when you have carbon build up in a connection, you effectively place an ever growing resistor in the circuit. Not good! Especially in a ground circuit.

Loose grounds can create EMI/RFI causing interference with surrounding devices or components. Loose grounds can also be susceptible to EMI/RFI and allow the unwanted introduction of interference into that circuit. Also not good. Please follow the link in my sig to determine if I might know a little about electronics. I would strongly advise against loosening any mounting screws or ground connection. Keep them tight and secure - always.

 

Thing about testing the circuits where I live is that I live in an apartment so I can "test" the outlets but that's it. When I get home I will check my computer to ensure it's grounded properly. I don't have a PSU laying around to test. I was thinking about buying a new PSU though. It would need to be at least 850w. I'm also going to replace the mobo and cpu since they are bad now too. Can someone recommend a decent mobo, cpu, and 850w PSU? The mobo and cpu I would like to be AMD though.

 

Yes, but if they test as having a bad/open ground, or reversed polarity, you can complain to the landlord. I don't know what country you live in, but in most, there are strict building codes, rules and regulation landlords MUST abide by and if they don't, they can be severely fined, shut down, and/or go to jail. You are actually in a better position as an apartment dweller in this regards.

Most people don't need near as big as they think they do. We know you have the FX-8350, what graphics card or cards, how many sticks of DDR3 RAM, number and type of drives, number of fans, etc.?

I recommend at least 80 PLUS certified Bronze but prefer "Gold". Gold certified cost more upfront but over the life of the supply can save you money due to higher efficiency and less heat production. Heat production matters if you have air conditioning. I like EVGA and Seasonic, the high end Corsairs and Antec supplies.

Do not buy a new PSU until you select your new motherboard and CPU and new RAM (since a new board will likely support DDR4 - which is better anyway).

 

What is the make/model of your mobo?

 

Have you looked at your GPU? your storage/boot drive? Updated all your drivers? Checked your system logs right after the stutter to see what, if any, errors were happening just as the thing froze?

In case it's not the PSU...

 

I will give you guys complete system info when I get home today. Sorry it's busy as crap here for me. @Mimsy I have not looked at my system logs and I know my GPU is fine (did a benchmark test on it and it was solid) All my drivers are updated.

 

I checked my mobo and all screws are pretty tight. I also checked to ensure all PSU cables were reseated with the same issue. I'm awaiting the tool to check the outlets to come in. Here is my system info.

Windows 7 Home Premium (x64) Service Pack 1 (build 7601)
Install Language: English (United States)
System Locale: English (United States)
Installed: 7/9/2016 9:00:06 AM
Boot Mode: Legacy BIOS in UEFI (Secure Boot not supported)
System Model
Enclosure Type: Desktop
Processor a
4.00 gigahertz AMD FX -8350 Eight-Core
192 kilobyte primary memory cache
4096 kilobyte secondary memory cache
8192 kilobyte tertiary memory cache
64-bit ready
Multi-core (4 total)
Not hyper-threaded
Main Circuit Board b
Board: ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC. M5A99FX PRO R2.0 Rev 1.xx
Serial Number: 140526594000466
Bus Clock: 200 megahertz
UEFI: American Megatrends Inc. 2501 04/07/2014
Drives
2197.97 Gigabytes Usable Hard Drive Capacity
2078.67 Gigabytes Hard Drive Free Space

msi DVD-RW DH24AS SATA CdRom Device [Optical drive]

ST3000DM001-1CH166 [Hard drive] (3000.59 GB) -- drive 0, s/n Z1F1PVLM, rev CC24, SMART Status: Healthy
Memory Modules c,d
16384 Megabytes Usable Installed Memory

Slot 'DIMM0' has 8192 MB
Slot 'DIMM1' has 8192 MB
Slot 'DIMM2' has 8192 MB
Slot 'DIMM3' has 8192 MB
Local Drive Volumes
c: (NTFS on drive 0) 2197.97 GB 2078.67 GB free
Network Drives
None detected

Printers
Microsoft Shared Fax Driver on SHRFAX:
Microsoft XPS Document Writer on XPSPort:
Controllers
AMD SATA Controller
ATA Channel 0 [Controller]
ATA Channel 1 [Controller]
Standard AHCI 1.0 Serial ATA Controller
Display
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 560 [Display adapter]
Acer X223W [Monitor] (22.0"vis, s/n ETLAP080669240BEFD4224, June 2009)
AOC 2436 [Monitor] (23.4"vis, s/n CSEB6HA004231, June 2011)
Bus Adapters
ASMedia XHCI 1.0 Controller (2x)
Standard Enhanced PCI to USB Host Controller (3x)
Standard OpenHCD USB Host Controller (4x)
Multimedia
NVIDIA High Definition Audio (4x)
NVIDIA Virtual Audio Device (Wave Extensible) (WDM)
Razer Kraken 7.1 Chroma
Realtek High Definition Audio

 

Okay, I plugged your system specs into the eXtreme PSU Calc. This is, by far, the best PSU calculator out there but like all calcs, it tends to exaggerate your needs (always better to suggest too big than too little). But the eXtreme PSU Calc is the most conservative for a more accurate recommendation.

Even so, I padded the results even more by increasing CPU utilization to 100% TDP from the default 90%, I added 4 x 140mm case fans, and I increased Computer Utilization to 16 hours per day from the default 8 hours (this compensates for increased capacitor aging over the life of the PSU). As seen here, you could easily get by with a decent 500W supply.

I have been using the EVGA Supernova 550W G2 Gold in recent builds, including my (this) computer I am using now and love it. The only problem(?) I have had with it is that it is so quiet, I have to put my ear up next to the exhaust port to make sure the fan is spinning (which it only does when needed). And even then I really could only feel the air movement. Any fan noise I heard was the very light drone from my CPU and GPU fans - not the PSU fan.

If you plan on any major graphics card upgrades over the next few years, or just feel more comfortable with a little more headroom, the EVGA Supernova 650W Gold for a few $$$ more is an outstanding choice. But any more is overkill and wasting your money.

 

@Digerati thank you for the information. Now as for the mobo and the cpu what would you recommend? Will Intel recognize the RAM I have?

 

I don't know if this relevant, but I noticed this.

 

Yep. Noted the same thing.

Looks like MemOK sees modules a,b as "unhealthy". Either the RAM needs to be reseated (more likely), or there are some issues with the modules or the board.

Having to replace an Asus mobo is a bit unusual.

Do you have the latest BIOS?

 

It may be unusual but not out of the equation yet. I will reseat the ram. Did you want me to post the results of another scan? Also how do you know it's unhealthy?

 

It is not Intel you need to worry about, it is the motherboard you choose that must support your RAM. The motherboard also determines which CPUs you can use on that board. It's a general rule that if the board supports the CPU, and the boards supports the RAM, then the CPU and RAM will work together.

That said, I see no reason to replace them. Regardless, if you do, you will need to recalculate your PSU requirements.

Good pick up on the RAM. I didn't notice the 16GB usable. I only saw the 32GB (4 x 8) installed. That could be related to the stuttering. So Nicholas, which is right? How many sticks and of what size do you have installed.

I have not seen where reseating RAM had done any good in over a dozen years - since they changed how RAM slots work. IF they were seated properly in the first place, the slots are not damaged from abuse, then they are locked in place, cannot come out, and more importantly will not allow dust or debris to get in.

We must not get ahead of ourselves. The OP has already replaced the motherboard, CPU and RAM - twice already. But he has never replaced the power supply and EVERYTHING depends on good, clean, stable power. When troubleshooting electronics, you start at the wall.

 

Most RAM problems in recent years fit this scenario: all slots populated, usually fully-populated, most often with non- QVL listed sticks.

The 'board's QVL list will/should show which 4x sets were tested and approved, if you can't find yours, check with the RAM maker's site for compatibility, many will either have done similar tests and have their own QVL version, or have a method (configurator) of checking which of their RAM sets will work with a specific 'board.

 

Since you have an AMD motherboard, that's not really important

This. I would like to rule out the possibility of the PSU as well. That said, I would like to know this:

What RAM do you have, Nicholas?

We know it's compatible - your computer works, which it would not do with incompatible RAM. We can also assume the RAM is fine. Aside from replacing it already, if you had bad RAM you would have different problems, and a lot more of them. But certain types of RAM can be unstable if they're not configured right in your BIOS, so I'm curious what brand and model you have. Just one more thing we can rule out while waiting for more PSU info.

 

So even though 3/8 of my CPU cores tested "failed" getting a new PSU may fix that issue? Also I cannot find the packaging my ram came in the first place. How do I tell? Also I have 8 GB X 4 ram sticks

 

On the CPU - no, that is not a guarantee. If the cores tested bad, the most common reason is that they are bad. Sorry.

As for what RAM you have, CPU-Z can tell you. On the memory tab you can see all memory info CPU-Z could find, including brand and serial/part numbers, for each slot.

(Dinner guests about to arrive... expected departure several hours from now. Just FYI. )

 

Experience has taught me otherwise. I have a client who lives on a farm, and the environment is dusty. He brought me the machine, and it would not boot. After cleaning the machine thoroughly, I went about repairing the Windows installation. I have had more than one laptop not boot properly, and a reseating of the RAM modules took care of the issue.

Trust me, it does happen.

 

Here is my RAM info:


Memory SPD
DIMM # 1
SMBus address 0x50
Memory type DDR3
Module format UDIMM
Manufacturer (ID) G.Skill (7F7F7F7FCD0000000000)
Size 8192 MBytes
Max bandwidth PC3-10700 (667 MHz)
Part number F3-1600C9-8GXM
Number of banks 8
Nominal Voltage 1.50 Volts
EPP no
XMP yes
XMP revision 1.2
AMP no
JEDEC timings table CL-tRCD-tRP-tRAS-tRC @ frequency
JEDEC #1 5.0-5-5-14-19 @ 380 MHz
JEDEC #2 6.0-6-6-17-23 @ 457 MHz
JEDEC #3 7.0-7-7-20-27 @ 533 MHz
JEDEC #4 8.0-8-8-22-30 @ 609 MHz
JEDEC #5 9.0-9-9-24-33 @ 666 MHz
JEDEC #6 10.0-9-9-24-33 @ 666 MHz
XMP profile XMP-1600
Specification PC3-12800
Voltage level 1.500 Volts
Min Cycle time 1.250 ns (800 MHz)
Max CL 9.0
Min tRP 10.88 ns
Min tRCD 10.88 ns
Min tWR 15.00 ns
Min tRAS 29.63 ns
Min tRC 40.88 ns
Min tRFC 260.00 ns
Min tRTP 7.50 ns
Min tRRD 6.00 ns
Command Rate 2T
XMP timings table CL-tRCD-tRP-tRAS-tRC-CR @ frequency (voltage)
XMP #1 9.0-9-9-24-33-2T @ 800 MHz (1.500 Volts)
DIMM # 2
SMBus address 0x51
Memory type DDR3
Module format UDIMM
Manufacturer (ID) G.Skill (7F7F7F7FCD0000000000)
Size 8192 MBytes
Max bandwidth PC3-10700 (667 MHz)
Part number F3-1600C9-8GXM
Number of banks 8
Nominal Voltage 1.50 Volts
EPP no
XMP yes
XMP revision 1.2
AMP no
JEDEC timings table CL-tRCD-tRP-tRAS-tRC @ frequency
JEDEC #1 5.0-5-5-14-19 @ 380 MHz
JEDEC #2 6.0-6-6-17-23 @ 457 MHz
JEDEC #3 7.0-7-7-20-27 @ 533 MHz
JEDEC #4 8.0-8-8-22-30 @ 609 MHz
JEDEC #5 9.0-9-9-24-33 @ 666 MHz
JEDEC #6 10.0-9-9-24-33 @ 666 MHz
XMP profile XMP-1600
Specification PC3-12800
Voltage level 1.500 Volts
Min Cycle time 1.250 ns (800 MHz)
Max CL 9.0
Min tRP 10.88 ns
Min tRCD 10.88 ns
Min tWR 15.00 ns
Min tRAS 29.63 ns
Min tRC 40.88 ns
Min tRFC 260.00 ns
Min tRTP 7.50 ns
Min tRRD 6.00 ns
Command Rate 2T
XMP timings table CL-tRCD-tRP-tRAS-tRC-CR @ frequency (voltage)
XMP #1 9.0-9-9-24-33-2T @ 800 MHz (1.500 Volts)
DIMM # 3
SMBus address 0x52
Memory type DDR3
Module format UDIMM
Manufacturer (ID) G.Skill (7F7F7F7FCD0000000000)
Size 8192 MBytes
Max bandwidth PC3-10700 (667 MHz)
Part number F3-1600C9-8GXM
Number of banks 8
Nominal Voltage 1.50 Volts
EPP no
XMP yes
XMP revision 1.2
AMP no
JEDEC timings table CL-tRCD-tRP-tRAS-tRC @ frequency
JEDEC #1 5.0-5-5-14-19 @ 380 MHz
JEDEC #2 6.0-6-6-17-23 @ 457 MHz
JEDEC #3 7.0-7-7-20-27 @ 533 MHz
JEDEC #4 8.0-8-8-22-30 @ 609 MHz
JEDEC #5 9.0-9-9-24-33 @ 666 MHz
JEDEC #6 10.0-9-9-24-33 @ 666 MHz
XMP profile XMP-1600
Specification PC3-12800
Voltage level 1.500 Volts
Min Cycle time 1.250 ns (800 MHz)
Max CL 9.0
Min tRP 10.88 ns
Min tRCD 10.88 ns
Min tWR 15.00 ns
Min tRAS 29.63 ns
Min tRC 40.88 ns
Min tRFC 260.00 ns
Min tRTP 7.50 ns
Min tRRD 6.00 ns
Command Rate 2T
XMP timings table CL-tRCD-tRP-tRAS-tRC-CR @ frequency (voltage)
XMP #1 9.0-9-9-24-33-2T @ 800 MHz (1.500 Volts)
DIMM # 4
SMBus address 0x53
Memory type DDR3
Module format UDIMM
Manufacturer (ID) G.Skill (7F7F7F7FCD0000000000)
Size 8192 MBytes
Max bandwidth PC3-10700 (667 MHz)
Part number F3-1600C9-8GXM
Number of banks 8
Nominal Voltage 1.50 Volts
EPP no
XMP yes
XMP revision 1.2
AMP no
JEDEC timings table CL-tRCD-tRP-tRAS-tRC @ frequency
JEDEC #1 5.0-5-5-14-19 @ 380 MHz
JEDEC #2 6.0-6-6-17-23 @ 457 MHz
JEDEC #3 7.0-7-7-20-27 @ 533 MHz
JEDEC #4 8.0-8-8-22-30 @ 609 MHz
JEDEC #5 9.0-9-9-24-33 @ 666 MHz
JEDEC #6 10.0-9-9-24-33 @ 666 MHz
XMP profile XMP-1600
Specification PC3-12800
Voltage level 1.500 Volts
Min Cycle time 1.250 ns (800 MHz)
Max CL 9.0
Min tRP 10.88 ns
Min tRCD 10.88 ns
Min tWR 15.00 ns
Min tRAS 29.63 ns
Min tRC 40.88 ns
Min tRFC 260.00 ns
Min tRTP 7.50 ns
Min tRRD 6.00 ns
Command Rate 2T
XMP timings table CL-tRCD-tRP-tRAS-tRC-CR @ frequency (voltage)
XMP #1 9.0-9-9-24-33-2T @ 800 MHz (1.500 Volts)

 

No one knows until you try. But it sure might. The point is, you don't replace a car engine that has 3 cylinders that won't fire without first ensuring the fuel is not contaminated and that there's enough spark. You have already replaced the engine (CPU, motherboard, RAM) twice already without first ensuring you have good spark and you are not shoving dirty, watery, contaminated, fuel down its throat.

Again, whenever troubleshooting hardware issues, you should always start at the wall. Is it plugged in? Is it turned on? Are there proper grounds? Are the voltages clean, stable, and within required tolerances? If all good, then you move on to testing the components that are totally dependent upon that good, clean, stable power.

You could run a decent hardware monitoring program like HWiNFO64 and check the sensors to see if your voltages are within the required ±5% tolerances. But no software based program tests for excessive ripple and other anomalies that affect computer stability. This is only done by a qualified technician using an oscilloscope or power supply analyzer - sophisticated (and expensive) electronic test equipment requiring special training to operate, and a basic knowledge of electronics theory to understand the results.

I don't recommend the use of multimeter for testing power supplies either because most don't measure true RMS. Plus "normal" users don't have the necessary capacitor laying around to put in series with the meter to get a proper reading of the AC component riding the DC. And to properly test, the user must stick highly conductive probes into the heart of the computer and the supply must be put under a variety of loads while measuring each rail - while of course, remembering that anything that plugs into the wall can KILL!!! If someone does not understand and respect all that, then they have no business testing a PSU with a multimeter. And if not formally trained in electronics troubleshooting, there's no shame at all in that. The vast majority of users are not formally trained technicians - and don't need to be either.

Therefore, conclusively testing a power supply is done in properly equipped electronics repair facilities by trained technicians who know how to do it right, safely, and understand the results. Consequently, the only way "normal" users can properly test a PSU is to swap in a known good PSU.

***

My apologies. I would be remiss if I claimed it could never happen. Repeated heat up and cool down cycles, rough handling, weak (loss of tension in the slots) contacts, constant and heavy vibrations could indeed cause poorly seated RAM sticks to "creep", work loose and/or allow dust to work its say in between the contacts.

And in the olden days with older style slots, that was not uncommon and reseating the RAM did result in clearing some RAM related issues.

So I will clarify and say, as I did above, it is not likely these days (with modern style RAM slots). And that is "IF" the RAM was properly inserted in the first place and the computer was not abused - as is often the case with laptops (noting this is a PC). I should add (and should have added above) that also assumes the slots and RAM sticks are clean before insertion too, and not dusty or showing signs of corrosion already. So, for example, if you had a couple slots that were empty for long periods and decided to add more RAM, inserting and pulling your new sticks a couple times to scrape clean the slot contacts before final insertion is often beneficial. Of if you had RAM sticks that laying around exposed to the air for awhile, it may be good to carefully clean the contacts before insertion (I use a clean pencil erasure) observing good ESD control while avoiding touching the contacts with my bare fingers.

I also must point out your comment "after cleaning the machine thoroughly". That is a WHOLE LOT MORE than ONLY reseating the RAM - but to the point here, that does not lead to the conclusion reseating the RAM is what fixed the issue when cleaning out heat-trapping dust could resolve the same symptoms. I am just saying, when you do a bunch of things at once to resolve a problem, you cannot conclude it was one thing alone that resolved it. Any experienced technician knows simply "cleaning the machine thoroughly" is often all it takes.

I note this is a PC, thus less likely to have been dropped or bounced about, and the RAM has been replaced already which would have scraped the contacts clean.

The problem with reseating the RAM is the potential of destroying the RAM in the process due to mishandling, lack of ESD prevention, and/or leaving the PSU connected (and in standby mode) while pulling or insert RAM. I see no problems with unplugging from the wall, touching bare metal of the case interior to discharge static, then pressing on the RAM sticks to ensure they are fully inserted and have clicked in to place. If found to be loose or not fully seated, then reseating to scrape clean the contacts might be a good idea.

One final comment, I note that notebook RAM (with some notebooks) have different RAM slots from PCs and use a type of ZIF (zero insertion force) slot where the RAM slips into place, then you press the whole slot and RAM together to lock them in. That is, the contacts of the RAM don't scrape themselves clean upon insertion and removal as they do with PC RAM slots. Nor do the slot contacts exert a lot of spring/tension force on the RAM contacts when inserted preventing dust and debris to get in between. And again, the OP has a PC motherboard here and has replaced the RAM already, but has yet to try a different PSU.

 

BTW, x64 W7 Home is only licensed for 16GB total memory, you might as well pull 2x sticks during testing (and I don't think we know which motherboard you have yet) and consider upgrading to a Windows version that will allow 16GB+.

 

That's a new one on me. Do you happen to have a link to the source for that? I have only heard of "physical" limits and my friend Bing Google is not helping me out here - that is, I can find nothing about "licensing" limits for the amount of RAM we are allowed to use. I don't understand even why (or how!) Microsoft could legally (through a license agreement) force a limit on users like that. To me, that would be like Microsoft saying we are only allowed to connect no more than 4 drives or 3 monitors to our computers. That is none of Microsoft's business.

I note according to Microsoft, Windows 10 Home x64 bit has a "physical" limit of 128GB (4GB for 32-bit) but those restrictions are imposed by the actual capability of the product, not via licensing.

Might there be some confusion over licensing limits through VMware? Other than that, I don't believe users have any restrictions on the amount of RAM they can install - other than physical.

 

Same here.
And then I found this.
https://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/li...=vs.85).aspx#physical_memory_limits_windows_7

Edit: Same webpage as Digerati's

 

Source: Microsoft. First hit on a google search for "windows memory limits".

Let's try and get back to the point of this thread, which is trying to fix OPs problem. We can do the "I know more than you do" competitions later when they won't interfere with helping someone.

Nicholas, your memory has XMP profiles (which is an awesome thing). Do you remember which of them you set your BIOS to use? If you don't, or if you didn't, please go into BIOS and look at what the memory settings are. I'd like to know the DRAM voltage, sometimes labelled VDIMM in a BIOS, and the first four timings that are listed. If you didn't manually configure anything for your memory, go in BIOS anyway and look at what the motherboard defaulted to. With memory with several XMP profiles, the defaults numbers are hardly ever the best ones for stability, and that is even more true with a motherboard like yours.

How to get into BIOS and where to find all that info, is described in your motherboard's manual.

 

Yes, but physical and licensing limits are different. And your hit, like ours, address physical. And with all due respect to you and the OP, this is not a "I know more than you do thing". This is just about getting the correct information out there. Knowing the difference between physical and licensing limit is a learning opportunity for all. That's all.

 

Bill, Microsoft limit the physical amount of memory that can be used per SKU/version/etc. There is no physical restriction.

Nicholas, sorry I missed your 'board details earlier.

 

Well, the limit on the board is 32GB. Upgrading to Windows 10 Home would eliminate the OS restriction on RAM memory.

One thing which has not been mentioned is if the AC power is dirty, a UPS like my Apex has power filtering built in may be of help.

 

Thanks for that link, Andy. I understand the issue about 4GB and 32-bit OS. And I note that licensing issue is about using the "code", not necessarily the physical memory - which is different if I understand it correctly. And still not sure how that applies to W7, 64-bit or 16GB but that is for another discussion.

That said, in regards to Mimsy's "stay on topic" warning, my concern came about because of the OP's post #10 where he reports 16GB usable installed but also 4 x 8GB sticks. That discrepancy raises red flags for me - just not sure what it means.

Did you mean upgrading to 64-bit? That for sure would eliminate restrictions.

No direct mention of "dirty AC" but checking the outlets for proper grounding and polarity, EMI/RFI and ripple suppression (all of which contribute to dirty power) was mentioned. That said, I wholeheartedly second your recommendation for using a good UPS with AVR. I think all computers should be on one - regardless the stability of the grid in your region.

 

MS did the same thing with Vista Home as with W7 Home. The only way to have more than 16GB usable with either x64 OS is to have a Pro or Ultimate license.

 

To avoid running this thread further OT, I have created a thread here for anyone who wishes to discuss or express their opinions about the RAM limits and licensing issues.

 

@Digerati Hey Bill can you please explain to me how you came up with my PSU only needing a max of 650w to power my machine? I'm just curious how you came up with that. Would you mind detailing all that for me?

 

Nicholas Roman You can calculate the PC's power requirement online.

http://outervision.com/power-supply-calculator

http://powersupplycalculator.net/

 

Yeah I calculated maybe 400w (390w to be exact). So yeah the 550w would be good. I'm still interested to see if @Digerati calculated it with a site or by himself. I don't understand electricity at all so I'm just curious.

 

I did in post #11 above. Click on the second link (on the word "here") in my post and it will show you exactly what I entered. I explained in that same paragraph how I "padded" the results to give you even more headroom. And note I said you could easily get by with 500W.

 

Thanks Digerati. I missed that. It happens when a thread becomes this long.

 

It makes sense. I will order the 550w soon. Not sure when but I will order it. Thanks soo much for the help thus far. I will reply when I order it and put it in.

 

@Mimsy did you still want the RAM voltages from the BIOS? Wasn't sure if you still needed those.

 

So update! I am borrowing a 650w PSU from a good friend of mine. He said it tested good so I will pop it in tomorrow sometime and let you guys know. Is there anything you need me to do when I pop it in? Do I need to run anything in particular?

 

Only if the new PSU doesn't fix the problem. The reason I asked for those numbers was to try and find out if your RAM settings was the cause of your computer stutter. Since you're about to put in a different PSU tomorrow, let's watch what happens when you do that first. If the stutter stops, we don't need to do anything further.

 

Back in 2013 was the computer running okay?

 

Okay I have an update. My CPU was put into another computer that stress tested beautifully. When adding my RAM into the hardware the computer that ran perfect started to stutter (it took 6-7 minutes for Windows 10 to start up). Also, the stress test didn't complete 1 line at all. The PSU tested clean with giving 12 volts as well. So I believe my issue is my ram. Any input here?

 

Here is my CPU, mobo, RAM, and PSU specs with links

CPU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819113284
Mobo: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128514
RAM: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231569
PSU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817153106

 

Yes. Your RAM is the problem. Stress test them one at a time until you have found the bad one. If they all fail testing, or if none of the them do, then I no longer want, but need your RAM voltage, timings, and BIOS revision. Don't run any windows utilities to get those numbers. Power down your computer, boot into BIOS/UEFI, and get the numbers there.

How to get into BIOS and where to look if all spelled out in your motherboard manual.

 

@Mimsy thank you for the input. I really appreciate you all helping me. Upon putting my computer back together I have no display. I'm going to get with a buddy of mine (the same one who put my cpu and ram into his computer) to troubleshoot it with me. It really sucks having an Associates degree in IT and not understanding what the hell is going wrong. Serves me right for going to a crappy school eh?

 

IT is a very large field. The school was only crap if your degree was supposed to be in hardware installation and troubleshooting.

First thing to check: Is every thing plugged in? Every single internal component, cable, etc. Second thing: Is the monitor working?

Go from there, and good luck. We'll be here if you have questions down the road.

 

IT is industries within industries. There is no one school degree that covers it all.

 

School is just the beginning. The learning never ends. Someone is developing new things and ways as we speak! Continuing Education is a lifetime thing.