Continous beep on start up

Howdy,

A few days ago I was plugging a peripheral into my usb hub and a warning box popped up on my screen and before my computer shut down I was able to see that the message had something to do with power.

Since that moment when I would try to start my computer i would get one beep, some of the POST information would show up then it would just go into a continous beep and the screen would go blank. I did a little research online and a few places I found mention of a failed power supply. This made a little sense to me since the computer in question is a HP with a 250W power supply and I have added a dvd-rw and about a month ago installed a dual monitor video card.

Instead of just swapping out the psu I got a good deal on an Antec case with 350W psu so I carefully transferred everything over but still get the same beeping issue. I tried to reseat the memory and that didn't help either.

Does anyone have any ideas? Is it the mobo maybe?

HP model a335w
P4 2.5GHz
Asus P4G533 uATX mobo
1GB RAM
200 GB Seagate HD
Matrox dual head video card 16 MB
Windows XP SP2

Thanks

 

check out here, all you need is to know what is your BIOS

http://www.hi-tech.net/zones/help-beep.html

 

Hey, thanks for the reply! I had found a similar website with all of the beep codes prior to posting here and unfortunately it didn't help because what I am experiencing isn't on the list. My BIOS is Award.

In anticipaton of hearing the motherboard is toast, I began looking at what options I have for replacing it. I'm a little confused, but read about the differences of the 845 chipset (my computer is 845GL) and there is a wide variation in this family. I would like to use the CPU and RAM I have already, I have the new case/psu and it can accomodate an ATX as well as uATX. My question is how much latitude do I have in selecting a mobo? As long the back (USB, Etherenet, etc) connections are situated the same as what I have now, the RAM requirements are the same, the same socket, and it fits in the case, am I good to go? I've found a few good deals online but wanted to hear from one of y'all experts before I purchased... Is Intel a safe way to go for mobo?

Thanks,
LF

 

You just need to find a motherboard that supports your cpu and memory. Most motherboards provide a pop-in plate for the back ports. So if your case supports the pop-in plates you are good to go.

 

Hi, this motherboard (Asus P4G533-LA) uses SMD transistors to control the VCC line (+5 volts) of some ports like USB, PS/2 keyboard/mouse, when this line is overcharged or short-circuited due a damaged hardware (keyboard, mouse, printer) connected to one of these ports then the transistor that control or switches this port become damaged, causing that the motherboard can´t "turn-on" USB and PS/2 ports (the motherboard can´t put +5v on these ports), you can verify it seeing that the leds on the keyboard stay off when you turn on the computer...

To repair these motherboards you need to know about electronics specially about SMD, because you need to locate the SMD transitor short-circuited and replace it, I know 3 ways to do this repair:

- Full repair: locate damaged transitor and repace it.

- Partial repair: if yoy can´t obtain a replacement transitor then simply remove it, but the port associated to this transitor will not work anymore.

- Partial repair (improved), you can simply remove the damaged transistor and put a jumper like a SMD cero ohm resistor between collector and emmiter pads on PCB of course, with this "jumper" the port and the motherboard will work without a problem.

Note: The Asus P4G533-LA have 3 of these SMD transistors marked as Q11 (at the back of PS/2 keyboard/mouse port), Q12 (at the back of RJ-45 LAN/ USB ports) and Q21 (near to the USB front panel header). I recommend that you first check Q12, but all 3 can cause these simptoms described.

I hope this helps, please post some feedback to know if this procedure helps someone.

Thanks.


Hola tu computadora trae el motherboard Asus P4G533-LA, este modelo de motherboard usa transistores SMD para "accionar" los puertos USB y PS/2 (teclado y mouse), estos transistores funcionan como switches o interruptores que conectan la alimentacion o linea de voltaje de 5 volts de estos puertos, el problema que describes ocurre cuando esta linea de alimentacion se sobrecarga o entra en cortocircuito debido a que algun periferico que conectas a alguno de estos puertos causa este cortocircuito o sobrecarga provocando que el transistor que conmuta esa linea de voltaje se queme, puedes notar si este es el problema verificando que no le llega voltaje al teclado ni al mouse ni a ninguno de los USB (lo cual puedes verificar observando que los leds del teclado no encienden al momento de encender la computadora)...

Para repararla necesitas tener conocimientos y habilidades para trabajar con componentes SMD ya que la solucion es encontrar el transitor que esta en cortocircuito y reemplazarlo, hay 3 formas de "repararla" las cuales son:

- Reparacion total: consiste en conseguir el transistor y reemplazarlo.

- Reparacion parcial: consiste en quitar el transistor que esta causando el problema, esto hace que tu motherboard vuelva a funcionar pero el puerto al que va conectado el transistor dejara de funcionar.

- Reparacion parcial mejorada: en caso de no poder conseguir el transistor puedes colocar en su lugar una resistencia SMD de cero ohms (jumper o puente) entre lo que es el emisor y colector, de esta manera el puerto al que va conectado este transistor seguira funcionando sin problema.

Si vives en Mexico puedo ofrecerte el servicio de reparacion de tu motherboard.

Nota: En este modelo de motherboard (P4G533-LA) he identificado 3 de estos transistores marcados como Q11 (atras del conector de teclado y mouse), Q12 (atras del conector de red RJ-45 con 2 usb) y Q21 (a un lado del conector para los USB frontales). Te sugiero que revises primero Q12 ya que es el que yo he visto quemado en las reparaciones que he hecho pero los 3 transitores pueden causar este problema... Saludos.

 

Hola! Lex Welcome to Major Geeks.

It's good to see someone interested in component level repairs to circuit boards these days.
Normally only an amateur will do this because he does not count his time. I often say to clients these days "It is cheaper to replace the board than find out what transistor has failed"

I look forward to much good advice Thanks.


Studio T

 

Hi, Studio T, thanks for your reply, I need to say that if you have the adequate knowledge then this type of repair is easy and not time demanding, I think that someone will do the job that omit to do hp-compaq and/or asus engineers, because when you see a lot of motherboards of the same model with the same symptoms then certainly the conclusion of that problem is a conjunction of factors like poor quality of components in conjunction with bad designs, both applies to this case, because the problem in Asus P4G533-LA generally is caused by the poor quality LAN-USB combo port, in this connector occurs an internal short circuit in the USB pins (between Vcc and Gnd) when you attach any USB device and when this short circuit occurs then the SMD transistor that activate the Vcc line of the USB port is damaged causing a permanent damage to the system board, the design flaw is evident, 99% of the system boards NOT include this type of design with transistors that "connect" the Vcc line of the USB ports, the Vcc line is connected to the USB ports with a temporary fuse directly without transistors then when a short circuit occurs simply the port is disconnected "temporary" by the fuse and when the short circuit is solved (maybe simply disconnecting the USB device attached to the USB port) then the USB port will work normally again...

Definitely "an amateur" can´t do this type of work; 99% of the "computer experts" replace system boards because they don´t know how really repair them, then they simply replace circuit boards increasing the amount of techno-garbage in our day-to-day more contaminated world...


Hola Studio T, gracias por tu respuesta, Es necesario decir que si tu tienes los conocimientos adecuados entonces este tipo de reparacion es facil y no te lleva mucho tiempo, yo creo que alguien debe hacer el trabajo que los ingenieros de hp-compaq y/o asus no hacen, porque cuando tu ves muchas motherboards del mismo modelo y con los mismos sintomas entonces la conclusion mas acertada es que el problema se debe a un conjunto de factores como componentes de mala calidad en cojunto con malos diseños, ambos aplican a este caso, ya que el problema en la Asus P4G533-LA es causado generalmente por la mala calidad del puerto que combina el conector de red y USB, en este conector ocurre un corto circuito interno entre los pines de los USB (entre la alimentacion y tierra) cuando conectas algun dispositivo USB y cuando este corto circuito ocurre entonces el transitor SMD que activa la alimentacion a este puerto USB se daña causando un daño permanente a la tarjeta de sistema, el error de diseño es evidente, el 99% de las tarjetas de sistema NO incluyen este tipo de diseño, con transistores que "conectan" la linea de alimentacion de los puertos USB, la linea de alimentacion es conectada a los puertos USB con un fusible temporal directamente sin transistores entonces cuando un corto circuito ocurre simplemente el puerto es desconectado "temporalmente" por el fusible y cuando el corto circuito es resuelto (tal vez simplemente desconectando el dispositivo USB conectado al puerto USB) entonces de nuevo el puerto USB funcionara normalmente...

Definitivamente "un principiante" no puede hacer este tipo de trabajo; 99% de los "expertos en computacion" reemplazan las tarjetas de sistema porque no saben como repararlas realmente, entonces ellos simplemente reemplazan las tarjetas de circuito incrementando la cantidad de basura tecnologica en nuestro dia a dia mas contaminado mundo...

 

Hola Lex, your English is heaps better than my Spanish, whcih I haven't done since school 45 years ago. However you must live in a different sort of economy or perhaps work for a large concern.

Soldering in a new component or resoldering a dry ( more common in my experience) joint is easy enough. That's not the issue. You have to find it first, and then remove the board for soldering, and then perhaps order the component.... then do the repair.....then refit the board...then test the repair. I would estimate this whole process averages two hours.

Most motherboards can be bought in the UK for a lot less than the cost of 2 hours technician time. This has been true of most electrical /electronic equipment and also incidentally of mechanical components for vehicles, for a long time.

A quick survey of the last 100 jobs brought in to me show 3 (i.e. 3%) usb 'failure' related. In fact not one was due to hardware fault on the board, and I think that nearly every motherboard was different. So unless you are working for the manufacturer and seeing a steady stream of like boards and faults it is not worth tooling up for much component level intervention.

Time is another consideration. Sending the pc back to base for repair can take 3 weeks to 3 months. Most owners don't want to wait this long.

At the moment we are seeing a spate of 'capacitor rot' on boards made around 2004/5 with all those bad capacitors. It is not worth the risk of repairing these as another capacitor may go as soon as the pc is switched on again. One might ask if it is worth repairing any poorly designed board in case the fault recurrs.

Nevertheless many thanks again for the information. I will bear it in mind if I ever see such a fault.

As basically an electronics man I am sorry to say to someone "This board is at fault it is cheaper/ quicker for you if I don't get my hands dirty and find out why " It's less interesting that way.

Studio T

 

Lex,

Hey, thanks for the reply! While I am definitely an amateur at electronic repair I was more than willing to try your suggestion to bring it back to life. With the help of a magnifying glass I was able to locate all three SMD transistors (Q11, Q12 and Q21).

I can live without any or all of the functions that you mentioned in your response. I could easily install a network card, USB PCI card and even use a USB keyboard/mouse.

My question is going to be an elementary one for you, I suppose. I removed the Q21 (Front USB) and Q12(RJ-45 LAN/Rear USB) transistors very carefully using a razor knife being extra cautious not to disturb anything else. I think I succeeded in doing that but haven't had a chance to rebuild it yet. Finally, my question, how do you usually remove something like the SMD transistors from a board?

Thanks again for the reply,
LF

 

Lex,

Just wanted to thank you for the suggestions. With your help, I was able to bring this computer back from the grave. The only problem I had was getting an operating system to load but eventually accomplished that.

Thanks again!

LF

 

Ummm, Ok

 

Good to hear you're sorted and thanks for keeping us informed.

Studio T

 

i had the same problem, plugged in a usb camera and the computer wouldn't boot up and got beeping followed by continuous beeping.

we removed smd transistor q21 near the front usb since that was where the camera was plugged in. just had to put case back on and plug in power, keyboard, mouse, and monitor, and now it boots just fine. i can live without the front usb working.

thank you for the post , it saved me from getting someone else to repair or from buying a new machine.

 

Welcome to Major Geeks, Dkenn. This is why old archives should never die.