ga-990fxa-ud3

ga-990fxa-ud3 board
gskilll 2400 2x 8 gig
am3 3.5 fx 6300 64 black

brand new board graphics shut down after random periods of time 1/2 hour , 3 hours , 15 min . checked south bridge , added heat past just in case to no effect . is the board faulty or have i missed a bios setting , any help would be cool

 

What do you mean that you "added" paste. There should have been a some TIM (thermal interface material) already, typically a thermal "pad".

Did you thoroughly clean the old TIM on the mating surfaces FIRST, then "add" a fresh new (and extremely thin) layer of TIM?

What are your temps? If overclocking, stop while troubleshooting.

 

dont bother , im over stupid questions , board was faulty , sent back for replacement . i dont mean to be short but it seems every time i post a problem on any forum i just get inane questions after inane question . failed graphics to me points to faulty south-bridge , i may be wrong , ( am i wrong?) if i had overclocked i would of said so and i would of reset to default anyway . heat sink over south-bridge was too cool for my liking , lead me to think it was not transferring heat

 

"What are your temps?" is a stupid question???

Well, I don't mean to be short but if you (1) Posted complete specs (including OS), (2) explained what you did already in an understandable way (added paste is not), and finally, (3) if you had a clue about what is a "stupid" question or not, you would not get frustrated by the "volunteers" here who donate their free time to help YOU!

And for sure, we don't want to waste our time on ungrateful folks either. :mad

"What are your temps?" is hardly a stupid question since CLEARLY you describe "classic" overheating symptoms.

Failure to properly clean mating surfaces BEFORE "adding" TIM is a "classic" mistake. Asking you to clarify your unclear comments is also hardly a stupid request.

Yes. Totally! I guess it would be stupid to ask if you bothered to research it first, huh? Because if you spent a minute with Bing Google, you would have seen that graphics communications is handled through the Northbridge, not Southbridge - if not almost entirely on the CPU die.

Good luck with your problem - sorry to waste YOUR time.

 

ok , i deserved that , well done , being a cranky 51 yo does NOT give me the right to respond like that . i do apologize.

 

51? Still a kid. I will not hold your youth and lack of experience against you!

Please do remember in the future should you decide to seek help (or provide help - always looking for new volunteer helpers) on forums again that we are not mind readers. We don't know your knowledge of computer hardware, operating systems, networking, etc. We don't your skillsets. Are you handy with a screwdriver? Do you know what a #2 Phillips is? Do you know what ESD is and how to prevent it?

What can we assume? Not much, if anything.

Omitting information DOES NOT IN ANY WAY tell us anything. NO WAY can we assume you are not overclocking just because you did not say you were. Nor can we assume you reset your timings if you were overclocking.

You did not state your PSU size, does that mean we can assume it is not underpowered? No.

And most importantly, without being able to touch and feel the computer ourselves, we don't know the problem unless the poster is adept at defining it, or at least the symptoms thoroughly - typically a challenge for normal users because of confusing and complex terminologies and technologies - and/or intermittencies, which are problematic for newbies and pros alike.

And I am sorry for jumping in your case the way I did too. You hit a nerve when you called my question about temps a stupid question - especially considering you described classic heat related symptoms.

I truly do understand the frustration when something brand new you paid good money for does not work as expected, especially when it is apparent days in delays will ensue. But again, please remember, all the helpers on these forum are here, as volunteers donating are spare time because we want to help! But we are not mind readers. AND we don't want to give bad or inaccurate advice. That means, like you, we need good information to make informed decisions and provide sound advice.

That means, unless the information is provided, we WILL ask questions that may seem obvious to you, but may not be clear to us. We must ensure we are all on the same page, before moving on. Even if means asking, "is it plugged in? Is it turned on?"

**************

Movin' on...

To be sure, Gigabyte is my preferred board maker and the one we use here for most of our builds so I am sad to hear this might be a bad Gigabyte board. However, one reason I prefer Gigabyte is their warranty and after-sells service.

That said, it is critical to understand cooling is the responsibility of the case (but sadly, we don't know what case is being used here either. The CPU cooler need only toss the CPU's heat into that flow. This is why the OEM cooler that comes with both AMD and Intel CPUs is more than adequate for the vast majority of users, even with mild to moderate overclocking.

So if you have similar problems with the replacement board, you need to look at your temps and determine if your case is providing an adequate supply of cool air. Typically, you seek good "front-to-rear" flow through the case. I like using at least 2 large (120mm or larger) case fans, one in the front drawing cool air in, and one in back exhausting heated air out. The PSU fan does not count as case cooling.

Also note a flakey PSU can result in unexpected freezes, reboots, and shutdowns. If me, I would have tried a different, known good PSU, and I would have ensured heat was not an issue.

Also, how did you measure the chipset temp to determine it was not warm enough? :confused A calibrated finger? What does "too cool for you liking" mean? In all my years as an electronics technician, "too cool" when operating is not a complaint I have ever heard, except many years ago referring to crystal ovens in old air traffic control radios. Understand chipsets run a lot cooler than they used to. That is why most motherboards use simple passive (heatsink only - no fan) cooling instead of active (heatsink with fan) cooling on their chipsets today.

If your chipset was not running, your system would not boot at all.