Help choosing graphics card.

Graphics Card Help!

Hi,

I don't know anything about graphics cards or even how to read their specs. So all help/opinions are appreciated!

I don't game at all so I always use onboard graphics. I'm getting a new barebones Phenom II X4 machine (750w PSU) which will need a graphics card. Viewing a Tumblr archive page (lots of thumnails/gifs) and an occasional high resolution video are the most grahics intense things I need to be able to do. I won't be thinking about upgrading/reevaluating this machine for at least two years so need a card that will get me through that time period.

I have a geforce 6200 PCI card the first on this comparison page, the other three ae just random PCIe cards between $50 and $150 dollars. Can someone please explain what differences I would see between the cards for everyday use? How the cheap PCIe card would compare to the 6200 I already have? Information on which specs are most important would be helpful. I don't know where to begin on narrowing down the choices. I only chose EVGA because that is what I have. I am not adverse to ATI cards if they are recommended.

I really appreciate any advice. Thank you.

 

Well there is a away i know that will give you info Speccy.
http://majorgeeks.com/Speccy_d6358.html

This is my choice GTX 550 Ti is very powerfull video card if you can get the Factory Overclocked version it can play any thing on very high settings.Here is my specs on my (FO) GTX 550 ti

GeForce GTX 550 Ti
GPU GF116
Device ID 10DE-1244
Revision A2
Subvendor EVGA (3842)
Current Performance Level Level 3
Current GPU Clock 951 MHz
Current Memory Clock 2178 MHz
Current Shader Clock 1903 MHz
Voltage 1.100 V
Die Size 238 nm˛
Release Date Mar 15, 2011
DirectX Support 11.0
OpenGL Support 5.0
Bus Interface PCI Express x16
Temperature 96 °F
ForceWare version 301.42
BIOS Version 70.26.3a.00.50
ROPs 32
Shaders 192 unified
Physical Memory 1023 MB
Virtual Memory 256 MB
Count of performance levels : 3
Level 1 - "Default"
GPU Clock 50 MHz
Memory Clock 135 MHz
Shader Clock 101 MHz
Level 2 - "2D Desktop"
GPU Clock 405 MHz
Memory Clock 324 MHz
Shader Clock 810 MHz
Level 3 - "Unknown"
GPU Clock 951 MHz
Memory Clock 2178 MHz
Shader Clock 1903 MHz

My Video card is at level 3 performance.

I get a Frame Per second 60+ on this card while gaming.

 

First of all the 6200 you have is PCI not PCI-E. Won't be compatible.

Modern motherboards require PCI-E (PCI Express) slotted graphic cards. Any of the other 3 pci-E cards will handle your needs.

 

Hi sach2, some of the hardware guys would probably have a better answer than me but I also bought a EVGA Geforce 6200 for an emachines computer with onboard video. I noticed a definite improvement. Games played much better but it can't handle the latest games. It was an AGP bus card though. I think you would be better off getting a PCI-e card if you could go for that as the speed improvement over regular PCI is great. The PCI Express 2.0 x16 slot gets up to 8 GB/s while the PCI slot can't touch that. I think you would be much happier with a PCI-e card.

http://www.naplestech.com/shopcart/bus_speeds.asp

Edit: I am not sure about this but wouldn't a PCI card still work if a motherboard had a pci slot?

 

A 6200 PCI might be ok (just) on XP but for W7, forget it!

What PSU make/model do you have for the new build?

I'd recommend a HD6770, single slot if you can find one, quiet, low power consumption, capable of some decent gaming on medium levels.

 

Are you all so looking for Motherboard Suggestions

 

This is a very budget build. I have a lot of household projects that are taking all disposable income. So I am putting my money in the case and power supply and economizing on the motherboard/chip. It will become my second computer after an i5. I hope that after this next year I will be able to buy an i7 as my main computer and then decide whether or not to upgrade this one with new motherboard/CPU. Antec power supply.

Thanks for all the replies. I'm going to have to go through them. One question on reading specs: I see that memory type (DDR3-DDR5), memory size(1gb-2gb) and memory interface (64bit-192 bit) are all things that vary on different cards. Which is the most important?

I will definitely replace my PCI to PCIe since the PCI gives a 2.5 windows experience in Win7. Will that alone up that experience number or do I go up in price, and will I being buying more than I need? I don't want to skimp too much as this will be an every day machine to replace two even older computers that are really on their last legs. I budgeted $150 for the card but if that is overkill even saving $50 would be welcome.

 

Here's your best bang for your buck:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814161402

Many factors are involved in how well a video card games. Vram, memory interface and the cards very architecture.

http://www.anandtech.com/bench/Product/536

 

Thanks, I'll keep it in mind but I don't game at all. Just web stuff and need to play an occasional 720p or 1080p video on a 23 LCD monitor.

 

LOL, I barely game much at all and I'm sporting a $479 video card.

But I have it in there if I decide to waste some time.

Really ANY pci-E video card will work for you.

 

PSU, nice, a little overpowered though this would be enough: http://www.amazon.com/Seasonic-80Pl...1340039276&sr=1-2&keywords=seasonic+s12ii+520

GDDR5 = much faster, GDDR3 usually means cutdown version (LE, SE, etc.). 1GB is usually fine except for multi-monitor gaming: 3xHD screens at very high levels = top end expensive card(s). All other things being equal, 192bits is better than 64.

 

I don't see the point on paying for a 500$ video card when a normal 200$ video does the same thing if not better.

 

Thanks, Satrow, I had considered Seasonic but will probably stick with the Antec. I'm planning on reusing this case later on.

I'm going to read up on some cards, plugging through specs. It sounds like everyone leans towards a more expensive card. I was hoping someone would say the $150 cards were overkill.

@LTLSU, I'm sure the guy doing tree work for me will be able to afford as many $479 cards as he likes but I'm left scrounging for something cheap! :-D

 

Here's a serious contender for the best bang for the buck in the sub $150 gfx card range: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102908

 

A $200 video card can't match a Sapphire Dual X 7970, lol. EVERY 3dmark 2k11 record score has been with an overclocked 7970.

Thats like saying 50 fps is more desirable then 225 fps.


Do you think a $400 HDTV is of the same quality as a $3000 HDTV? If your answer is yes you are making up excuses for not being able to afford something of higher quality.

YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR. Especially if you do research before buying.

$200 vid card vs $479:

http://www.anandtech.com/bench/Product/541?vs=508

ROFL

 

Thanks satrow.

I'm still a bit confused on comparing cards but LTLSU's link seems to do a decent job of comparing benchmarks between two cards. I'm going to play around over there and see what I come up with.

Is there any consensus on one brand over another such as EVGA vs. Sapphire vs. HIS etc.? I don't see any great difference in price on the brands.

 

I would say that a $200 card would be more than enough for browsing Tumblr and viewing HD videos. In fact most of the cards you (the OP) have linked too would do that. But hey, I'm not a video card guy and half the lingo is only now making sense.

One thing that nobody has mentioned yet is some cards are dual slot while others are single. That's something you should pay attention too. If the dual slot PCIe card covers up another PCI slot that you NEED then it will be just as frustrating as getting a card that's underpowered. And of course, some cards specs come out and say Low Profile while others don't state anything at all and sometimes the pictures aren't exactly all that helpful in that regard either.

 

From the 5th edition of the Returns Rates series from a European online store, lower % = better:

(I mentioned single-slot back in #5)

 

Thanks to you and cabbiinc for the info. I had missed the bit about single slot. All the specs run together and I glossed over "dual" as being the number of DVI slots on the card.

The return rate information is helpful. I'll definitely consider that when narrowing things down.

 

Don't forget to check the exact models with the verified owners comments over on newegg before you decide what to pull the trigger on.

 

yeah well may be some of us are on a budget and cant afford a 400$ video card.
And yes if tweaked properly my card can do the same thing.And all so if your getting 200+FPS i think your full of it most games only get 60+ even on high settings.if your using 2d settings then sure you can get 2,000+ FPs.

 

If you aren't all that into high-end gaming, then an older higher-end card of a few years back might be an option. I have a Radeon HD4870 card - it has 512MB of DDR5 ram and a 256bit memory bus. It plays Diablo 3 with no issues, and since someone mentioned the "Windows Experience" score the HD 4870 scored 7.5 for video. HD 4870's can be had new for well under a hundred bucks if money is tight.

I just bought an an HD 6850 from newegg for $140.00 on sale - it is an improvement over the 4870 in that it supports Direct X 11 and a higher shader version, I believe. I'm putting the 4870 in another computer.

Not real familier with Nvidia cards, but I'm sure the same is true with them - what was cutting edge two or three years ago is still pretty powerful for the general user, and a lot cheaper now The die-hard, cutting-edge gamers will scoff, but, I'm not a die-hard, cutting-edge gamer so I don't care :-D The graphics on that "old" 4870 are awesome to me!! My sons have 560ti cards, and I can't really see all that much improvment over my graphics.

Whatever card you get, a basic consideration is the memory bus. RAM is cheap, and the video card market is glutted with newer cards touting 1GB of onboard memory, but only a 64bit memory bus - and to my understanding the smaller the memory bus on a card the less able it is to effectively utilize anything over 512MB of RAM. My advice is don't even consider any card with less then a 128bit bus, and shoot for a 256bit or higher . . . but the higher the memory bus, the higher the cost.

 

That $119 HIS AMD video card I linked you to is a great buy at $119. It will fit your needs and more, if you or a family member want to play a few pc games on the rig it will be fine for that also.

(and sorry if I seemed to be bragging about my video card, its just that if I see misinformation I will correct it quickly. That guy that stated a $200 video card is as good or better then a $479 video card is and was wrong.)

There is a Hardware comparison tool you can use yourself in "Interesting Websites" section of this site. I have provided the linkage, you can see results in comparing virtually any pc hardware.

 

If you are not gaming you you don't need any sort of fancy card. ANY compatible card will serve you fine. Certainly anything approaching $200 is WAY overkill. You could easily get by with something for $50, though if me, I would probably budget for around $90. And I would look for one with the most on-board RAM. The amount of on-board RAM is much more important than the GPU horsepower (when talking "general purpose" cards, as we are here).

Remember, it takes next to nothing, in terms of video horsepower, to "watch" videos - including HD BluRays. This is why and how those little, fully integrated (with surface mounted CPU and graphics) µATX and mini-ITX (like this excellent Gigabyte ITX) motherboards are perfectly suited for, and more and more frequently are used in high-end home theater PCs.

I recommend anyone considering a new graphics card, regardless their budget, check out Toms Hardware Best Graphics Card for the Money - May 2012 (June's edition should be out any day now).

 

Thanks Digerati,

Jst checked that Tom's hardware and their best for under $100 is the HD6670 which I had dfound yesterday. For just under $100 reviews say it gives 7.1 windows experience. I was thinking that should be fine. Windows experience may not be a great scale to judge cards by but it basically says it should do all that I need.

Do you have any personal recommendations in the under $100 range?

 

No. Though you can stick with the major brands, the heart and soul of graphics cards are made by AMD/ATI and NVIDIA. Not Sapphire, XFX, PNY, EVGA etc. Pretty much all the card makers do is tweak specs (if that) and add RAM, a cooler, and a label.

And picking AMD/ATI or NVIDIA is like choosing between Intel or AMD. Or between Chevrolet and Ford. Or between blue and green. There are VERY loyal and VERY focal enthusiasts for each brand, but the facts are, both make excellent graphics solutions, but neither makes best in every price or performance range. In your case, I might look for the one with the best warranty.

 

Well if your looking for some thing Good for under 100$ hear is a good one has enough speed for any thing you want to do

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...Description=PCI 2.1&name=EVGA&Order=BESTMATCH

 

The make or break of a good card is whether the makers have stuck to, improved upon or crippled the features from the blueprinted ATI/nVidia original (LE and SE editions, etc. are usually poor relations).

 

The GT440 (Fermi) video card is a pretty good one just for doing normal things and its only 79$ + shiping and handling tax

 

I'd put more trust in ANANDTECH reviews over anybody's. I remember the bias Tom's Hardware showed 8-10 yrs ago for Intel + Nvidia.

I'd rate Anandtech #1, HardOcp #2, Pc Perspective #3, Tom's Hardware #4 for accuracy and being unbiased.

 

Well, if the idea is to create a generic card, then I agree, sort of. But when someone else makes the GPU and associated support modules, about all the card makers can do to differentiate their ATI product from the other guy's ATI is to "tweak" this or that feature, add more or faster RAM, or a pretty fan cover. But the main point is, for making or breaking, it is driver support that matters.

But note too, the game makers are a factor in this. Some games are programed to take extra advantage of this feature, some programed to highlight another. And no card does everything best.

8-10 years ago? :eek

Wow! I think that's bit long to hold grudge - especially against high-tech organizations. And not everyone would agree there was a problem with Toms, then or now. It was, and is one of the better sites for hardware information. So is AnandTech, TweakTown, Motherboards.org, those mentioned and more.

Note Toms is correct now too when it once again calls out Nvidia for being deceptive for re-branding. They are not saying Nvidia is making bad products, just that their marketing weenies have too much influence. I agree.

That is not a healthy attitude. If 5 reviewers like a product and the AnandTech reviewer does not for some reason not mentioned or of no concern of the others, I am not going to automatically trust AnandTech's over the others just because they have a good reputation. There are many excellent reviews sites, also with fine reputations who also have real labs with real analysis/test equipment, staffed by real qualified technicians.

But nevertheless I am afraid you are talking apples and oranges here. We are not comparing review sites and the Toms article I linked to is not a review anyway. It clearly states at the beginning it's purpose is all about market prices at the time of the article, and the best use for the money at that price.

And if you looked, you would see it talks mostly about the engines (GPUs) and not specific cards manufactures, though it links to suggestions (again, based on costs that day). But it also addresses the fact there are many cards not on the list. Its a good read too.

And FTR, AnandTech has not made it this long with out having a few missteps along the way either. None of the big review sites have. That is why you should NEVER put one site (with typically one reviewer doing the review ) over all the others. If the reviews are done by humans, there will be biases.

And what empirical evidence do you have to support one is more accurate over the other? Who analyzed their test samples and compared them to their test results for accuracy?

Bottom line, read them all and do not put total faith in any one reviewer.
And also, I don't put much stock in "user reviews" on sites like NewEgg or TigerDirect. For one, happy people don't normally write reviews. But also, normal users don't normally have comparable products for real A-B comparisons or the training, skills, tools, test equipment or facilities on hand to test right. So I only pay attention to user reviews if there are a bunch of users complaining about the exact same thing. Go by what they say, not their ratings too. I have seen too often, users downgrade the product because FedEx took too long to deliver. Or Newegg sent the wrong part.

 

You've done a lot of ASSuming, Digerati.

I never stated I trust only Anandtech, I said I consider their reviews THE most accurate. Before I buy anything I obsessively read reviews at all the sites I mentioned and others. Based on hardware I have personally purchased in the past 12 yrs (which is a lot). I have built and configured many systems over the years. Tom's is widely known as a pro Intel site and still is. Many reviewers are swayed with the promise of free hardware if a "good" review is written up. I also utilize TechPowerup, Overclockers.com, and Tweaktown as my personal sources.

In that article from Tom's you linked to regarding video cards there are mistakes in the $100 to $150 category for starters. Nowhere did I state preferences for card manufacturers but yet you are preaching to some audience that must be totally unaware....

Empirical evidence? Maybe 14 pages from Newegg alone, of hardware I've purchased since 2001?

I think you should speak of and in your field of expertise: Windows.

Leave hardware to people that have worked in the field. You don't see me commenting on software or windows issues, I don't like to confuse people and post FUD info.

 

If you want to spend the whole $150, this is a nice dual slot card with solid memory, and plenty of bandwith (256 bit):

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150573


Not that it's huge to a non-gamer, but there is an offer for 2 free game coupons with purchase, and a rebate to make it $134.99.

You could probably hock the game coupons for Dirt3, and DeusX...

 

Thanks mekanic, I think Satrow also mentioned that card but Saphire.

My head has been spinning with all these cards. I'll post my latest compare list if anyone wants to tell me one I should definitely eliminate. I'm not ignoring the 6850 just don't have room to add it to the compare. I'm going to try to get a list together so I don't keep going to the same cards 20 times a day, which should make it easier to get it down to 2 or 3 choices.

It looks to me like I will end up paying closer to the $150 then less. I realize 6months from now $50 won't mean anything in the big picture, I am just trying to economize otherwise I could go up on every component if i let myself.

 

I got my 4850 years ago in Sep. '09 (still running it) and it has 1 GB DDR3, and the same bandwith, 256 bit.

I paid $126 for it on sale, so in a way though the tech has improved the prices are relatively the same.

 

Right! You've been here less than 3 weeks and you already criticize others technical knowledge. Readers can decide by looking here to see if I might know something about hardware, my field experience with electronics in general, supporting computers and networking hardware specifically.

You spent $479 for a card and you don't game much at all? rolleyes

This was right:

But it was incorrect to say the 6200 card he already has is incompatible and that modern motherboards "require" PCIe cards. That is not true. While there are a few of the latest (mostly high-end) motherboards without PCI slots, the vast majority of new motherboards still have at least one PCI slot along with several PCIe slots. As long a drivers are available for the chosen OS, it will work.

I did not assume anything. You assume because something happened 8 or 10 years ago, it is still a problem today. You assume one review site is better than all the others. And you assume you know more about hardware than others.

I did not say you did so please don't misquote or attempt to twist-around what others say in an attempt to make your point. That's not cool. I said Anandtech was a good site, but I also said to read all the reviews.

Ummm, NewEgg has nothing to do with Toms Hardware. Newegg is not a review site, a testing facility, or anything other than a retail outlet.

Yeah right.


***

Moving on...

@sach2 - I am sorry for these unnecessary distractions. I note in your opening post, one of the first things you said was, "I don't game at all". Then a bit later you said, "This is a very budget build." And "Thanks, I'll keep it in mind but I don't game at all. Just web stuff and need to play an occasional 720p or 1080p video on a 23 LCD monitor."

Okay. I will, again. $150 is overkill.

It is important for ALL budget conscience buyers to understand that the game makers know the vast majority of computer owners cannot afford $479 for a graphics card. Or even $150 for a card! So they program these game to provide pretty decent "game play", even on (the better) integrated graphics solutions (note the number of so-called "gaming notebooks" out there running with integrated graphics). No, you will not see some of the advanced features like super hi-rez backgrounds and peripheral animations, but the main "action" will still be fluid and entertaining.

Even budget integrated solutions work perfectly well with Spider Solitaire, FreeCell, Mahjong and other games.

NO DOUBT, you can get a very nice card for $150 that should give you years of trouble free service. But with your repeated stated intentions and budget concerns, including no intentions for any serious gaming, that is more than you need - even if running in a multi-monitor setup. If you were doing computer aided design/engineering (CAD/CAE) or graphics/video "editing", then I might push you towards a "workstation graphics card" but you are just "viewing" HD video, and again, that takes little graphics horsepower as basically, the card is just handing off the data to the display and it takes very little horsepower to hand-off tasks.

And my apologies if I missed it, but how much RAM do you have? Today's "sweetspot" with Windows 7 is 8Gb for dual-channel memory architecture motherboards, and 6Gb for triple-channel. Of course, with more than 4Gb you will need a 64-bit OS - but that's a good thing anyway. If you have not budgeted to get you to the sweetspot (where less RAM and performance takes a hit, but more RAM yields marginal, if any, "perceivable" gains for the money) then that is where I recommend you put your money today.

I note you also said you currently have a EVGA 6200. I skipped over earlier :-o where you were told it will not be compatible. That is absolutely incorrect! As I noted above, virtually all motherboards still sport at least 1 PCI slot. Therefore, that card is compatible with virtually any ATX Form Factor compliant motherboard (old or new!). Therefore, I suggest you use that card (if suitable drivers are available for your OS) and see if it meets your needs (at least for now). I wish it had a little more than 512Mb of on-board RAM, but that's not a bad amount (especially since it is NOT stealing... err, "sharing" system RAM). If nothing else, it will give you a working computer, and more time to really research what you need (or want), and put money back in the pot for more RAM, or your OS license, expanded tree trimming service, etc.

Finally, before buying a new card, take a look at the connectors of the card, and your monitor(s). Most newer monitors support digital inputs via HDMI or DVI. But CRT monitors and some LCD monitors still use D-Sub (analog) connections. Make sure any card you buy will support your existing (or future) monitor(s). Note the digital data protocols used in DVI and HDMI for the video is exactly the same. The primary difference, besides the obvious size of the connectors, is HDMI, coming out of the home audio/home theater world, has the capability of carrying, in addition to the video signal, 6 audio channels for 5.1 surround sound, plus a control channel for controlling devices (receivers, DVD/BR players, TVs, DVRs, cable boxes, etc.) in a home theater setup. So adapting from DVI to HDMI just takes a simple adapter plug, and many cards come packaged with them. Most, not all, but most cards still support analog outputs (because many users still prefer CRTs and many still have older analog LCDs) through at least one of the digital connectors. You just need the proper adapter in that case.

 

The comments made in #5 about the 6200 PCI I will stand by; they're based on my own experiences with a 5200 PCI and a 6200SE PCI-E on XP, Vista and W7 across 3+ computers. They're adequate to good on XP, usable on Vista but not good enough (useless for the 5200 PCI) for W7; Web content these days means hardware acceleration on the Desktop, inside browsers and in Flash and HD content.

There's also a reason that the low-end DX 10/11 cards have a very high returns rate - could it be that many of these are also inadequate or crippled versions of the real thing? Or because they really are borderline for modern usage?

I suggest that the $70-90 price bracket is where you'll begin to see user satisfaction at a high level - if you can avoid the doctored cards with half the normal piplines, etc. missing. If you enjoy watching AERO in action, stick with an old PCI card.

 

I agree 100% that web content today is served better with better cards. This is why I also said in the beginning, that I too would shoot for something nearer $90. It is also why I suggest to potential CPU upgraders to look at upgrading their graphics (and RAM) first.

My comment was in reference to the card being PCI, and I mentioned the need for drivers for any new OS it might be used with. In looking, I see Vista drivers (which often work with W7), but no W7 drivers. And no 64-bit drivers either and that may be the real factor here.

 

I believe I read someone here advising another that a 3rd party cpu cooler (meaning anything other then the included plastic push pin crap) would void the cpu warranty and that using a stock cooler is preferable. Was that you, by chance?

When I see FUD info posted I remember what was said, although I may mix up who actually stated it.

It does not matter how long a particular member has been on a given site, it is the accuracy of the advice and knowledge the person has and how much they are willing to share that matters.

I don't care much for people that think they know it all, that they are experts in all fields. Everybody usually has a niche that they specialize in. The know it alls that post in every forum just like to type.

I worked as a pc system configurator for years here locally, building systems at home when I got home from my full time job. I still build systems for folks locally. I don't advise people with software or Windows as I can admit it doesn't interest me much and I lack experience resolving Windows issues.

I spent $479 on a video card because for me its not that much money. I'll use this card for at least 2 yrs.

 

I believe this person advised another NOT to use a 3rd party cooler. I advise them to throw away any plastic push pin cpu coolers. A bracketed steel pin 3rd party cpu cooler is superior in every way, especially with copper pipes, copper block, lots of fine fins and a high rpm low cfm fan. Can be mounted many times without risk of a plastic pin breaking and superior cooling.

Do you know what thermal grease is best to use on a cpu about to be overclocked? TX-4, followed by TX-2, Artic Silver 5...

 

It was.

And I don't care much for folks who are incapable of defending their own statements by debating the technical facts and merits of the information and so instead, launch personal attacks and puerile insults at the person. Now that's sad.

FUD? Do you think I make this stuff up? No! I am here to ensure users know all the facts, not just the facts YOU want them to know. And I don't know it all. That is why I verify my information, and post links to supporting evidence.

FUD? Yeah right.

So heed your own words.

AMD CPU Warranty

"This Limited Warranty shall be null and void if the AMD microprocessor which is the subject of this Limited Warranty is used with any heatsink/fan other than the one provided herewith."​

Intel sells and warranties their CPU and HSF as "a unit", and does not cover repair if it not used as "a unit". Read your warranties. It's in there.

Now you posted something totally non-contributive to this thread, and I have responded in kind. I suggest this nonsense stop now, and return to the providing accurate information to those seeking help.

 

I've never seen a 3rd party cooler destroy a cpu. It's not possible. A novice trying a massive overclock can destroy a cpu and/or a psu/mobo and anything hooked into the board. The cpu cooler will not hurt a cpu, an idiot trying a massive overclock can.

Contrary to what YOU believe it is quite possible, and even likely, that others here know pc hardware better then you do.

Why do you not post your pc specs? I'd like to see your hardware you've selected and your 3dmark2k11 score link to verify it.

Others try to contribute here and you have a need to try correcting any and everybody.

 

So you are arguing with me over AMD and Intel policies? rolleyes

As far as my specs, I have 7 computers here and I am responsible for many more through my consulting business. My PC specs, like yours, are immaterial here.

You are wasting everyone's time with more personal attacks. If you want to discuss sach2's graphics card issue, great. Otherwise, I am out of here.

 

Uh?

Can we just chill out please? Boasting fests bore me to tears, they're better suited to an overclocking forum than a help forum.

Amen to that, let's work together shall we - as in additive suggestions and clarification rather than negative and disruption, eh?

 

thank you laura. my opinion is snag some bandwith and run with it for the long term with some good memory.

 

I want to thank each and every member who has replied. Each of you has given me information that I did not know or something helpful in your posts.

Thanks Satrow and Laura for moderating the very few off-topic posts.

I am still going to take a day or two to process my choices.

I see that there really aren't many cards in the $60 to $100 range which would have been my compromise position. They seem to go straight from $50 and under to $100+.

These are the five cards I am considering here.

DDR5 seems easier to get in a lower spec card then 256-bit so I chose only DDR5 cards. I'm good with that since there will definitely be a DDR7 before I buy another video card.

I think I will be partial to Asus or Evga brands if possible with those chipsets. I would appreciate opinions on which one to settle on or a link to a different card.

One last question: Am I correct that dual slot cards only insert into one PCI-e slot but because of their width they take up two expansion slots on the back of the computer? So not a motherboard compatibility problem just a matter of whether or not you mind having a blocked PCI slot.

Thanks again!

 

Well some "use" both slots in back, but some, like the first two in your latest comparison, only "appear" (when looking at the back, in one slot. But because of their width (primarily, the mounted fan assembly) the second case slot is still blocked.

For me personally, if the card is going to take up two slots, I would like to see the second slot used for cooling (air flow). Otherwise, the card is pumping more heat into the case. Not a problem with good case cooling, but important to keep in mind when setting your cooling up. There's also no industry standard for which way GPU coolers move air. Some cards draw cool air in from the second slot, some exhaust hot air out. Cool air in may be better for the GPU, but I prefer ALL rear fans exhaust air out in order to maintain my desired front-to-back flow through the case.

With big (read: heavy) graphics cards like these, I like the double wide cards because they are secured to the case with two case screws, not just one. I think this ensures there is no "wobbling" in the one PCIe slot, causing undue stress on the motherboard, the slot and the card too.

As far as your 5 options, I think any will serve you well but that last ASUS has me a little worried. Look at the length. 10.24 inches is very long and long cards often interfere with other devices on some smaller motherboards, and/or smaller cases.

If those were my options, I would probably go with the EVGA GTX550. I like the PCIe 2.1 and 3.0 of the other cards, but I like 192 bit memory bus. And right now, with the little $5 discount, $15 MIR, and free shipping, that seems like the best deal. Yeah, I said $90 but I would rather err on the side of more power than less.

Since you will not be gaming, you will not likely be running in SLI mode (using two cards) so you will not miss 3.0. V 2.1 contains some of the features of 3.0, but the speeds are the same as 2.0 so no harm there. And all motherboards will support all versions so no problems there either.

I think with any of those cards, you will be happy. When viewing video content from the Internet, I think your bottleneck will be your Internet connection - regardless the bandwidth you get.

 

Here's an apology to all for letting myself get upset yesterday.

:-o

This site has excellent people in place to advise and help with Software, Malware removal, use of 3rd party apps and Windows. IMO, the HARDWARE section has always needed help. I've read here at times for yrs.

I tried to bring my "hands on" hardware experience and offered my opinions and advice only to have one individual constantly question my thoughts and opinions.

Before I leave this site I offer one word of advice:

"If you want to learn how to build your own pc's or at least upgrade them with bang for the buck methodology use these two sites HARDWARE forums as your advisors":

Anandtech
HardOcp


You will find nobody foolish enough to recommend using a stock Intel or AMD cpu cooler at either. You will find plenty of builders that keep up with MODERN TECHNOLOGY.

That is all, good luck to all with your hardware endeavors.

 

I think somewhere I read I have 12' clearance for video card but I will double check.