Monitor shutting off after 1 second

My Gateway running windows 7 just started ( after about 4 years ) to have the monitor flash "analog" on the screen and go into power saving mode as soon as the monitor is turned on. Restarting the monitor gives me a second of picture (looks like it should ) then powers down again. I've tried this with another monitor with the same results, unplugged the hard drive same thing. I'm using the on board video and don't have a video card to plug in. Is getting a video card my next move or dose anyone have a better idea?
Thank you for any help you may offer.

 

I would unplug the monitor's power and video-connectors, and very deliberately re-connect them, with the Power Button off. (Screwing the video-cable isn't so much of a requirement - no need to pull a lotta G's tightening it.

This isn't likely a video-card problem, but either a Cable Connection problem (electrical or video cable) OR the monitor has a power-problem just before it's death.

 

@Christine - note Raven said he tried another monitor and got the same results - so it is not the monitor and likely not a cable connection.

So I would say this could very well be a video-card problem. But first, Raven, if me, I would swap in to your PC a spare, known good power supply and see what happens before troubleshooting anything else.

If no spare PSU is available, consider having yours properly tested at a shop. Alternatively, here is my canned text on testing PSUs:

To properly and conclusively test a power supply unit (PSU), it must be tested under various realistic "loads" then analyzed for excessive ripple and other anomalies that affect computer stability. This is done by a qualified technician using an oscilloscope or power supply analyzer - sophisticated (and expensive) electronic test equipment requiring special training to operate, and a basic knowledge of electronics theory to understand the results. Therefore, conclusively testing a power supply is done in properly equipped electronic repair facilities.

Fortunately, there are other options that are almost as good. I keep a PSU Tester in my tool bag in my truck. The advantage of this model is that it has an LCD readout of the voltage. With an actual voltage readout, you have a better chance of detecting a "failing" PSU, or one barely within the required tolerances as specified in the ATX Form Factor PSU Design Guide (see “Table 2. DC Output Voltage Regulation” on Page 13). Lesser models use LEDs to indicate the voltage is just within some "range". These are less informative, considerably cheaper, but still useful for detecting PSUs that have already "failed". Newegg has several testers to choose from. However, none of these testers test for ripple and they only provide a small "dummy load", not a variety of "realistic" loads. So while not a certain test, these testers are better than nothing. They are also great when using a spare PSU for testing fans and drive motors as they signal the PSU to turn on when plugged in.

Note the required voltage tolerance ranges:

http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z181/Digerati_Bill/ATXPSUTolerances.png​

Swapping in a known good supply is a tried and true method of troubleshooting used for years, even by pros. If you have access to a suitably sized, spare power supply, carefully remove the suspect supply and replace it with the known good one, and see if the problem goes away.

I do not recommend using a multimeter to test power supplies. To do it properly, that is, under a realistic load, the voltages on all the pins must be measured while the PSU is attached to the motherboard and the computer powered on. This requires poking (with some considerable force) two hard and sharp, highly conductive meter probes into the main power connector, deep in the heart of the computer. One tiny slip can destroy the motherboard, and everything plugged into it. It is not worth the risk considering most multimeters, like plug-in testers, do not measure, or reveal any unwanted and potentially disruptive AC components to the DC voltages.

Note the ATX Form Factor standard does not "require" specific color coding for power supply connector wiring. It has recommendations but manufacturers often do not follow them. Sadly, many testing guides or tutorials will refer to wire color only and that can lead to improper testing.

The voltages can be checked in the BIOS Setup Menus of most motherboards but they do not reveal ripple or other anomalies either. And of course, booting into the BIOS Setup Menu requires a working PSU.

As always, before working in the interior of the computer case, take necessary ESD precautions to ensure static buildup in your body does not discharge through and destroy any sensitive devices. Unplug from the wall and touch bare metal of the case before reaching in. And remember, anything that plugs into the wall can kill. Do not open the power supply's case unless you are a qualified electronics technician. There are NO user-serviceable parts inside a power supply. If you do not have a tester or a suitable spare to swap in, take the PSU to a qualified technician for testing.

For more information on testing PSUs, see this excellent article by Gabriel Torres, Why 99% of Power Supply Reviews are Wrong.​

 

Oops - ANOTHER MONITOR! Got it! Thanks for the correction. Yes, then power-supply!

 

I dealt with this exact issue a week or so ago for a business.

Same issue, although the monitor didn't actually shut off, it would actually stay on but show a black screen. Turn it offf and then on, and it works for a second. Tried another monitor, same issue. Tried another computer with the monitors, same issue.

Turns out it was a bad inverter in both monitors. Turning down the brightness (in my case I had to drop it to 50%) staves off complete failure and allows for the display to stay visible.

So if your monitors are actually staying on but showing a black screen, this is more likely the culprit.

 

I would say it would be a big coincidence to have inverters suddenly go out on both monitors at that same point in time. While failed inverters (or associated backlight CCFL failures) are not uncommon, I note a failed inverter would not send a monitor into sleep mode - which I assume Raven can easily determine by noting a flashing, or different color monitor power light.

That said, Raven, since it is possible, you can easily tell this too by shining a flashlight ("torch" if on the other side of the big pond) into the screen and looking real closely. If the inverter or CCFL have failed, you will still see a very faint image of what is being displayed on the montor - most likely the Windows desktop.

 

Not necessarily.


In my case, both were old monitors and it just so happened the second monitor we tested had this same problem and nobody had mentioned it, just stuck it in the back room.

To add to the tech support headache, I was told the monitor was also shutting off, but in actuality it was still on, just blank.

 

You are talking about a shop where there may be many, if not dozens of [as you noted] "old" and unused and potentially broken monitors laying around in "back rooms" - put there by multiple people.

That is nothing like the typical scenario found in a home where the status of any extra monitors is likely known by the in-resident computer go-to person.

That's typical too. Clients typically don't know what is wrong, so they report what they see or don't see. Or they just report it does not work right, or is broke.