Motherboard Thoughs.

This year i am thinking of building a new desktop strictly for video and gaming performance.

I was contemplating on either getting a dual cpu core or a single cpu mother board.

Is there any difference having two cpu or one cpu.

I was thinking of going with a Twin AMD Duel Core or Quad Opteron.

Would this build not be worth it for gaming.

 

Stick with a single CPU 'board, a single quad i5 or 8-core AMD CPU would be preferred for gaming.

Better to tell us the games, your screen resolution and your budget for more specific replies.

 

A year or so ago, I built a computer with an AMD 6 core with a moderately priced video card. Very affordable. The most stressful game I run is Diablo 3, but it runs everything well for me.

 

I'd stick with a multi-core cpu on a single socket motherboard.

I'm no expert on dual cpu socket boards, but I doubt there would be any noticeable real world benefit (or perhaps any benefit at all) in using one for a gaming system. Even if there were some advantage in memory thru-put, etc. it would have to be big to offset what sounds like a more expensive setup at the outset.

I built my current "main" PC in 2012 on an ASUS P8P67 deluxe board, i5 cpu, 16gb RAM (actually overkill). Currently using an HD6850 video card, and an SSD. It is a very responsive system and handles anything I've thrown at it. Will probably update the video card soon. Not a terribly expensive set up.

 

I built my current desktop in 2011 or 12 so yeah i need a new system.

I was thinking of spending close to 1,500 on my system.

What about getting a AMD cpu chip that has 4 or more Lagical Processors.MY current laptop can play GTA 5 on high settings.

I am a little fuzzy on what type of motherboard to get with the gaming aspect.My desktop motherboard is a MSI military class motherboard.Which can over clock every thing,It had all of the unshockable's for all cores.

I play mostly mmo's any more that take more CPU and VIDEO.

Mainly Star Wars - The Old Republic and Star trek online.I don't do much gaming any more.

I have been playing games since the 80's i still have most of my old gaming systems.Atari,Nintendo,Sega gen 16 bit play-station,i had a few more of them.

The most costly part i got in my desktop was the video card which is the 550ti evga super-clocked by factory settings.

 

I used to play Star Trek online. Got away from it for a while and forgot my passwords (played it on my old "main" computer I built in 2004 around an ASUS P4P800SE P4 based board with a hyperthreaded 3.0E CPU . . . I guess the grandfather of my current board, lol).

Downloaded it a few months ago and like how it played on my current PC. I like ASUS b0ards pretty much. I've never had a problem with them, and my old computer just recently died on me after 10+ years of service, and that was after a bad storm so I think lightning took it out.

Any higher end name brand motherboard built with gaming in mind would be ok. The biggest question is what CPU, Video card, and amount of RAM you are looking at. I'd research gaming boards of the last couple of years and see which ones get good reviews. I'm not a cutting-edge kind of person. I like to let tech stew for a while in the real world for a year or so . . . see what people rave about and what the say to avoid. Then I buy when the price has gone down, armed with some good intel on my purchase choice. That that goes for video cards also. Heck, with your budget you can build a killer system with an SSD, a hot card, and tons of RAM. Toss in a nice case and still have some cake left for fluff (what I call lights, etc. lol).

I recommend ASUS Tech motherboards, and AMD video cards. Nothing against nVidia cards . . . my sons gave me a 550ti they didn't need, and it's running nice in my wife's rig. Have fun . . . building computers is my second favorite pastime

 

For my 2¢ I say get a decent motherboard (I like Gigabyte and ASUS) then stick with a decent i7 quad and gobs of DDR4 RAM (16Gb or more) and top it off with great graphics card. Then feed it from a top quality 80 PLUS Gold PSU (I like EVGA) and put it all in a solid mid-tower case (love my Fractal Design R4).

If you said just gaming, I would say a decent i5 would be great. But since you also said "video" (though you did not elaborate), so I would make it an i7 for the larger cache and multi-threading support.

If you want more cores, then spring for an i7 6 or 8 core (be ready to increase your budget). But I would not get a dual CPU setup unless building a busy file server.

NO DOUBTS that AMD makes excellent and reliable processors. But again, because video (I assume video editing and such with Photoshop and the like) performance is a top priority for you, I would definitely stick with Intel.

 

Digerati

I agree with your comment on evga.I never had an issue with it except one i had to Frankenstein a cpu fan on to the 550 ti heat sink be cause the original fan stopped working for no reason.This is one reason why i keep backup fans just in case some thing like this happens again.

But my main point here is i need stuff for Gaming and video i will not go cheap on the video card.I hate bottle necks.

I was thinking of going with

I like to let tech stew for a while in the real world for a year or so
Same here i am a 80's guy

1. AMD FX-8350 Black Edition Vishera 8-Core 4.0 GHz (4.2 GHz) 159.00$ Us
2. GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD3 R5 (rev. 1.0) AM3+/AM3 AMD 990FX 121.63$ Us
3. EVGA GeForce GTX 960 04G-P4-1962-KR 4GB SC GAMING, 209.99$ Us x2

Total so far is only 700.61 dollars with these four items.Now i am looking to get Newer hard drives.

Any suggestions.I do not do water cooling that is be cause to many issues.I think water cooling is a little bit risky be cause what happens if you spring a leak.And it all leaks out your F***ed.Yes i know most people use mineral oil be cause it does not create static.But if it leaks and you leave your system on 24/7 and when you are not home there goes your cpu and video card from over heating.

I am strictly fans sure the fans them self can cause problems too.I had one at one point where the wire that was connected to the fan melted and all most caused a fire.The only reason i knew about the wire is be cause i could smell it melting in the case and did a change out.

 

Your parts list is making me drool, lol

Like Digerati said, don't skimp on a power supply. EVGA is a great brand, and there are other good brands. I've used OCZ branded PSU's in my main PC and my media ctr PC the last four years with no issues.

Most certainly go with an SSD for your OS drive. My sons bought me a Samsung EVO a while back and I love it. I suggest a 500GB SSD as your OS drive, and perhaps a 1 or 2 terabyte mechanical drive as secondary, file drive. Look into changing default locations for various system folders like downloads, documents, etc. . . . those should be on a mechanical drive.

I like having two optical drives as well . . . a standard one and a recording one. It's not necessary, but I like to record "on the fly" as it were.

I'm not big on liquid cooling either . . . my son has his liquid cooled, but to me it seems labor intensive. He actually had an xbox built into his case and liquid cooled both of them with the one system. Pretty cool . . . but if you don't plan on overclocking I don't think it's necessary. A decent case with good airflow and plenty of fans should be all that is needed.

 

I found a better deal for the cpu on http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php...8zvN2DgoNxig&gclid=CNm7pdzTi80CFQ-raQodqYIAig

that other price is from newegg and says will not restock.

 

Here is the motherboard price.http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php...AYUWvrolEaiA&gclid=CIPt1erUi80CFQgoaQodTIsOQw

Way lower than newegg prices.

 

Total for that price change would be 638.96 dollars from 700.61 dollars to 638.96 that is a major difference in price 61.69 dollars.

 

It's $5 cheaper still with free delivery on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-6Gbp...02248-8803652?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

 

I know but i wanted a place that actually sells parts not from a joe schmo.At least with a computer parts store i can guarantee that it will work.If you buy some thing off of amazon or ebay like computer parts it's a risk for me.

 

OK that's cool. My experience of Amazon is that their customer service surpasses anyone else, better than many stores and their immediate returns/refund policy (no matter why it's requested) is immediate without argument. Ebay is a different kettle of fish. But if you have had unsatisfactory experience with Amazon then I can understand.

 

Based on your own list, I'd suggest http://pcpartpicker.com/list/BVmscc as a baseline (they don't list a current price for your 'board).

I've deliberately selected a lower end but very capable (up to full HD at mid-high settings on most recent games) GPU because there should be a big reduction in mid - enthusiast GPU prices coming after the introduction of AMD's RX 480 (billed as a $200 card in the R9 380x/GTX 970 ballpark), which should be available from July onwards. I'd wait at least 4-6 weeks after that to see how the market settles before looking to buy a better GPU.

 

How much disk space do you need? And be realistic! I will never go back to hard drives for my OS, applications or data files. NEVER!!! SSDs only.

The only thing I use HDs for any more is to in my backup/streaming server I use to keep backup images of my main computers, and for streaming music (I have 600 music CDs copied to HD).

I have a shortcut to a 63 page, 21,000 word Word document that keeps all my canned texts and links I use for my forum "work". When I click on that link, MS Word and that document "pop" open. My computer boots from cold (totally powered off) state in less than 20 seconds. It wakes from sleep in less than 7 seconds. SSDs are the way to go.

I am not a fan (no pun intended) of water cooling either. Sadly, once the novelty wears off, too many users neglect the need regular inspections just when regular inspections need to increase! Unless doing extreme overclocking, alternative cooling is not normally needed. Contrary to what many still believe and may tell you, the OEM coolers that come with AMD and Intels are very good. They have to be. Neither AMD or Intel want to replace the CPUs or coolers because the coolers failed to adequately cool the CPUs. And note that NO aftermarket cooler covers CPU replacement should the CPU fail due to heat.

Remember, it is the case's responsibility to provide an adequate supply of cool air flowing through the case. The CPU cooler need only toss the CPU's heat into that flow.

Do understand that the best cards for gaming are NOT the best for video editing and processing. Those are two very different tasks. It's like vehicles. The best for hauling your family out to dinner is not the best to haul a bunch of 50lb bags of river rock to your backyard. That's why the best graphics cards for video editing and processing are "workstation" graphics cards, and they can be real "budget busters!!!"

So while you can game with workstation cards, and you can do video editing with gaming cards, either will be a compromise, one way or the other.

 

Well i don't really do video editing i watch em more than i video edit.

PNY Quadro M6000 what nut case wants to buy one of these for 5 grand well i guess rich nut cases.Like Donald trump lol pun joke.

Two SLI cards should be more than enough for me.At 4 gb per card i would most likely only need 3 at the most for higher graphics.

I could put a down payment on another newer car for 5 grand lol.

 

"Watching" videos is not demanding at all. There is no "processing" going on per say. Even basic integrated graphics support high resolution videos with no problems - which is exactly why integrated graphics solutions are often used in HTPCs (home theater PCs). All you need then is a fairly decent CPU, gobs of RAM, a quiet PSU and quiet case.

Serious professionals, that's who. Like professional photographers, graphics designers, CGI programmers (like game developers), engineers and architects doing CAD/CAE work designing skyscrapers, bridges, nuclear submarines and more.

 

2x 4GB cards in SLI/Crossfire = 4GB, 3x 4GB cards in SLI/Crossfire = 4GB. More powerful/faster but no combined VRAM, even in the few games that are SLI/Crossfire capable and relatively bug-free.

 

The main reason I like liquid cooling is it's quiet, and when I'm digitizing my DVDs it's quite superior to air cooling. I agree with Digerati on the SSD, and you can get HDDs with 64 and 128 MB caches these days. When it comes to data storage or movies, they perform just fine.

My advice would be don't skimp on the power supply. A solid PSU is the biggest favor you can do for your system.

 

And yet liquid cooling solutions typically use a fan (or even two) too. So I don't really buy that reasoning - at least not as a blanket statement. There are always exceptions either way.

While OEM coolers don't have the quietest fans compared to some after market coolers, they are much quieter than those provided by Intel and AMD years ago (when they got their bad reputation) - especially when not running full speed. That said, a good case will help suppress that noise too - especially if it is doing its job and providing a good supply of cool air flowing through the case so the CPU fan does not have to run full speed.

I have found that many graphics card fans are more noticeable than the CPU fan, since they are right next to an exterior wall of the case.

 

The H80i v2 I installed is far quieter and way more efficient than the previous air cooled heat sink/case fan. The push/pull fans on the radiator don't spin nearly as fast as the case fan did when it was air cooled. The PC idles at about 21C, and I've yet to exceed 45c under load. The latest Tomb Raider used to run at least 50C with air cooling, and after the upgrade it might crack 35c. And, there's no CPU fan to make noise.

Believe me, I was pleasantly surprised at just how well the setup performs. It's much quieter than before overall.

Almost forgot, Handbrake used to run at 70C with air cooling.

 

I was thinking of building a custom computer case for this one.

I was all so thinking about what type material i was going to use.A clear plastic casing.

May be a Octagon type case.How would i ground the mother board if i go this route.
http://t1.uccdn.com/fr/images/1/8/1/img_181_ins_1037_orig.jpg

 

You have to be extremely careful when using plastic due to the potential for extremely high static charges building up in the plastic. Another problem is the metal chassis used in traditional cases is used to establish a "common ground" between the installed devices. Relying just on the wires in connecting cables does not ensure proper grounding between the devices as connectors and wires can be damaged or work loose, or the electrical contacts can become dirty and contaminated. But a motherboard, PSU and expansion card screw into the metal case ensuring a good, solid, and common ground. This not only helps in static control, but minimizes RFI/EMI problems too.

There is no doubt that water coolers are more efficient at cooling the CPUs. And I am sure you are right that your H80i v2 was quieter than your previous conventional cooler. But there are some extremely quiet CPU and case fans too - and some very efficient heatsinks as well.


And I must point out that cooler does not automatically mean better. Adequately cooled is absolutely essential. Getting the coolest temps possible is not. That is, there is no reason expect a CPU running at 30°C will be more stable, perform better, or have a longer life expectancy than a CPU running at 55°C. And many CPUs are capable of running at considerably higher temps too.

 

The main reason I went to liquid cooling was the Handbrake/MKV processing. I really felt 70C was just too hot.

As far as your advisement about Digerati's case idea, I could not agree more. I gave similar advice to a poster some years ago who built a case out of a wood crate. Bonding is important in many systems, and should not be overlooked.

 

70°C would make me nervous too. In fact, I don't like my temps to sit above 60°C for longer than a couple seconds. If they do, on my systems that generally tells me I have to clean my case's air filters. On a client's system, that tells me I need to address case cooling by cleaning the interior of heat-trapping dust. If clean, then by adding fans, swapping in larger/better fans, or going with alternative cooling solutions.

But to that, I note motherboard designers purposely cluster heat sensitive and heat generating components around the CPU socket so they too can take advantage of the expected "downward" firing OEM coolers. Many alternative cooling solutions do a great job of cooling the CPU, but then neglect the surrounding components in the voltage divider/regulator circuits and chipsets. So it is up then to the user to ensure the case is providing sufficient flow for them too. But sadly, many users don't. This is another reason I am a fan (again, no pun intended) of OEM coolers.

 

When i build a new system i normally buy fans that have a higher air flow or CFM any thing above 80CFM is a good fan to buy.A lot of them are very quiet too.

I have two fans that sound like jets at full speed but i really don't even need them at full speed they are at there lowest but still put out a lot of air.I have one for intake and outtake they where not cheap when i first got them.They where 55 dollars per fan lol.You needed a speed controller for them,Which i do have on the front of the case.I did not feel like messing with that speed fan program which in my opinion is total junk i could never get it to work any way.

 

This is the type of fan i was talking about took me a little bit to find my newegg account.

Delta AFB1212GHE-CF00 120mm Case cooler
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835213001

 

Yeah, 240.96CFM is a massive amount of air. But 62dBA is way too loud for my taste. Frankly, I hate fan noise. It is unwanted sound and that to me is a form of distortion.

My latest build uses two Fractal Design 140mm fans and they are great! I never hear them even when they spin up to full speed. But being 140mm, they move so much air, I have my controller set to 7V and my temps rarely reach the 50°s when tasked and typically sit between 25° and 30°C. As I said above, if my temps sit higher for more than a couple seconds, that generally means I need to clean my filters.

Right now, my temp is 19°C with the OEM cooler and my 3.3GHz i5-66oo pushed to 3.9GHz. But other than that, I am not tasking my system and sits 3 inches off the floor in an air conditioned room. So no worries here.