PC Restarting

Several months ago I began experience an issue where my PC would restart w/o any warning. At first I thought it was a fluke, but after having the issue for more than a week I started looking for the problem. The "Windows has recovered from a serious error" window after every restart led me to think it may be a RAM problem so I upgraded from 512 to 1280. That has not fixed my problem and since then I have replaced my PSU (350w to a 500w) and GPU (currently nVidia GeForce 6200 512mb). My old GPU had 3 out of 7 blown capacitors that I was unaware of, and while that slightly decreased the restart issue, I still have it. I did a complete system restore with a backup of my old data and now it seems the system only restarts when I perform any kind of scan, although a few have made it to the end.

I then realized after doing several scans that my PC will always restart during the scan. I cleaned the registry and ran the gambit of the XP Cleaning Procedure programs of which I have provided logs for as many as I could. Unfortunately I could not get through a full scan of SUPERAntiVirus w/o a restart. I even DL'ed and ran the Windows Debugger for the error messages I get when I restart (the most recent one also attached).

I don't get any hits for malware and that's why I'm posting it here in the Software forums. Aside from my RAM, PSU, and GPU, all of my PC specs can be found here.

That's about all the info that I have. Hoping it's something simple and stupid, but I can't figure it out. Thanks in advance for the help.

 

Clean out the ventilation slots ! !

That qualifies as the simplest possible solution - it may even work ! !

I suggest that because the CPU probably works harder than normal when scanning, and is therefore more inclined to get hotter and reach the point where it decides to give up before it melts.

Alan.

 

An overheating CPU issue will cause the computer to turn off: It will not re-start automatically.

The bugcheck references the following:

vsdatant.sys ... ZoneLabs ZoneAlarm
Uninstall ZoneAlarm. Does the problem still exist? Try re-installing the latest version, to see whether the problem returns.

SAVRT.SYS .... Nortons Antivirus
Download the Nortons removal tool
http://service1.symantec.com/Support/tsgeninfo.nsf/docid/2005033108162039
Run it in Safe Mode twice, with a restart in between to remove the remnants of Nortons software.

 

Sorry for any confusion there.

I have never had the experience of an overheating problem myself, I only knew the processor would protect itself.

I now have an Acer Laptop running XP Home + SP3.
Previously I had a desktop running Windows 98.
When I changed I was confused by differences in how the two machines shut-down.
Please advise me, does an overheating CPU always result in a shut-down regardless of the computer type and operating system.

Regards
Alan

 

@ alan12345
AFAIK ... Yes, it does.

 

I have the same exact problem only that the computer will restart after it turns itself off. I have a Gateway GM5478, I keep the PC clean from malware and everything else. As far as I can tell it's a glitch in my BIOS I run CoreTemp it's not overheating, it's some kind of glitch with the temp sensors on the Mobo. I don't know if that helps you though. For me it's probably the infamous glitch which I'll patch at the earlierst opportunity.

I guess what I'm saying is check your OEM for any BIOS patches...

 

That seems to have done the trick. I'm now able to run any test or scan I want w/o a system restart. But there is still a downside... Every program, not just internet, is slow to start up, slow to run, and slow to close. On top of that, every now and then I'll get a "ding" sound. The kind you hear when you get a warning pop up, except there is nothing to be seen. I'm not sure what it is, but I'd like to find out.

But at least my machine is as malware free as I can make it for the time being.

 

Very good! Now you can proceed with some more work, to check a couple of hardware items before moving on to attempt to correct the issues you have mentioned.

Please do the following:
1. Test your hard drive for any sign of failure.
Download the diagnostic tool from your hard drive manufacturer's web site and test the hard drive, first with the short test, and then with the long/extended test. Run the S.M.A.R.T. test too. If there is any sign of failure evident, the hard drive should be replaced, after cloning an image to another hard drive. If these tests show the the hard drive is in perfect condition, then and only then, should further work on the existing hard drive/operating system be considered.

Hard Drive Diagnostics Tools and Utilities
http://www.tacktech.com/display.cfm?ttid=287

2. A test of the memory should also be undertaken before any further work is undertaken on the machine in question.
http://www.memtest.org/
7 full passes by memtest86+, is a minimum test for any degree of confidence in the result,
It is simple to get started .... and just leave it running .... for 24 hours if possible for the most conclusive result. There should be NO errors what-so-ever.
It is quite a routine procedure, and very useful to know how to do this, and use it if and when you have any doubts and/or problems.
-------------------------------------

Let us know the result of the above work, which will require a little time to complete, and we can proceed from there. As a precaution, please do not do any more work than necessary on the machine (do not attempt to resolve the issues you have mentioned) until you have confirmed the above two steps show no problems at all.

 

After determining that I have a WD 100gb EIDE HD, I DL'd the appropriate program and ran the test. Everything came up alright. I then ran the test on my external HD and got a failure. My external is apparently a Samsung as described by the WD program (although it says it is a SmartDisk Crossfire).

So my questions are this:

Did the WD program fail my drive because it is an external HD (unformatted) and/or because it is not the same brand?

Assuming I should check this drive for failures I am looking for the appropriate Samsung program, but cannot find one for use on external HDs. What do you recommend for this?

 

That would probably be a Samsung hard drive inside a SmartDisk Crossfire USB enclosure.

Have you tried this ....

SAMSUNG HDD
home > support > utilities > External Drive > ESwin
http://www.samsung.com/global/business/hdd/support/utilities/Support_ESwin.html
and download the file ESWIN_USB_v0.6a_Install.zip (Size : 283 KB)

Otherwise try the Hitachi DFT, which is recommended for most situations.

Edit:
You said: "Did the WD program fail my drive because it is an external HD (unformatted) and/or because it is not the same brand?"
That does not look good, but I cannot answer those questions with any certainty. The matter needs further investigation with more testing. Formatted or not should not matter (and likewise with brand and internal/external too ... ? ).

 

If memtest86+ checks out OK ... I would suggest that you do the following:

1. Use the Windows XP Error checking utility - Check Disk (chkdsk /f ONLY).
Open "My Computer" and then right-click on the drive that you wish to check.
Select Properties > Tools, and in the Error checking section, click on "Check now".
Place a check mark in the box beside "Automatically fix file system errors" ONLY, and click Start.
If you are attempting the disk check on your Windows system drive, you will see the following message:
"The disk check could not be performed because the disk check utility needs exclusive access to some Windows files on the disk. These files can be accessed only by restarting Windows. Do you want to schedule this disk check to occur the next time you restart the computer?"
Click on "Yes".
Click on "OK" to close the <local disk> Properties dialog box.
Close any open windows or programs and re-start the computer.

Check Disk will run on restart, and when finished will restart the computer normally.
If there are any errors reported, run the disk check again. Repeat until there are no errors reported.
---------------
A log of the disk check is recorded (if the scheduled re-start is used). To open Event Viewer and view the log:
Start > Run > and type "eventvwr" and press the ENTER key.
In the left pane, click on "Application".
In the right pane, at the top click on the column heading "Source" to sort the list alphabetically.
Look in the "Source" column for "Winlogon", with an entry corresponding to the date and time of the disk check.
Double-click on that entry to view the log.
If you wish, click on the "copy" button: You can then paste the log text into a text editor and save it, or paste the text into a forum post.

2. Download and install CCleaner.
http://majorgeeks.com/CCleaner_Slim_d4191.html
Run the "Cleaner" tool (ONLY) in its default configuration to remove some "clutter".

3. Defragment the drive.
You may use the Windows XP utility, but I would suggest that you use a better alternative.
Download MyDefrag: http://majorgeeks.com/MyDefrag_d5542.html
Install MyDefrag with the default options, and run " Optimize Monthly" to defragment the drive.
(MyDefrag will automatically defrag all hard drives ... so I suggest that you disconnect your external USB hard drive at this time.)
---------------------

How is your system performing after the above steps?

 

Thanks for the advice. For some reason, the DFT program from Hitatchi is not running as it should. I saved the ISO image to a blank CD and whenever I run the program, I get a DOS box that opens and closes within one second. No other messages to be found. I'm going to skip that for now and disconnect my HD for the time being and run the RAM test, run CCleaner, defrag., etc.

 

You would need to boot from the Hitachi DFT CD .... however Hitachi DFT doesn't work for external USB hard drives.

Try Seagate's SeaTools ... should work for external USB hard drives, even if not Seagate or Maxtor brand, according to the User Guide. I recommend that you read the User Guide.

Seagate's SeaTools website:
http://www.seagate.com/www/en-us/support/downloads/seatools

Download SeaTools for Windows now!
http://www.seagate.com/ww/v/index.j...toid=d0d51d4dad651110VgnVCM100000f5ee0a0aRCRD
Install on your Windows Xp machine and run it from there.

SeaTools for Windows User Guide
http://www.seagate.com/support/seatools/SeaTools_for_Windows.pdf

 

VERY good advice. However, common issues of this type derive from -

(1) Dirty CD.

(2) Dirty CD/ DVD drive.

Regs

S.

 

Alrighty then. I've ran the RAM test several times. To my knowledge, I only got a 100% pass on one test (I think it was 7 or 8). The rest were in the 80% or higher. Although I'm extremely confused by test #5. Even though I had pass rate, (the highest I saw it at was 99% right before it went through the gambit) it had like 30 million errors.

Since I couldn't bring myself to stare at those tests for the 18+ hours that they ran, I can't really provide any more info. I did run the defrag and things seem to be a little faster. This site, for instance there is almost no lag, but I still get quite a bit of lag with other sites and programs.

 

Re memtest86+
There must be NO errors what-so-ever! Just ONE error indicates a problem! Having seen ONE error, you should have stopped the test.
(Hmmmm .... it just occurred to me .... there may be some confusion in the use of the word "pass" here ....
"Pass" in memtest86+ means one full run of tests: It does not indicate any degree of success or otherwise. That idea had not occurred to me before!)

Just one error ... indicates that your memory test has FAILED!
----------------------------------

(From your first post ... I am guessing that you have 3 sticks of RAM in the mobo)

You should now test each stick of memory individually, one stick at a time, using the same slot in the mobo for each test.
First pull all RAM sticks from the mobo. Then replace just one stick in the first slot. Run memtest86+ for 7 full passes if no errors are found. Then pull that stick and replace it with another .... and so on. Just one error indicates a failure, and you should stop the test, and put that stick of RAM aside.

Assuming that you find the culprit to be just one stick of RAM, remove it from the system, replace the sticks that tested OK and test your system now.