HP Motherboard bad? CPU? or PSU? can't boot

I have a HP Slimline s7600n WinXP Sp3 - that can't boot-up and the software forum advised I should check with the brilliant minds here in hardware as you all might be able to help me figure this out.
Software thread:
http://forums.majorgeeks.com/showthread.php?p=1602171&posted=1#post1602171

This computer first got infected with Malware recently and had problems booting-up. This is where this process started.
Malware thread:
http://forums.majorgeeks.com/showthr...05#post1599805

While going thru the process of cleaning up Malware (almost finished) I couldn't get it to boot up at all, so I was advised to go to the software forum.

The smart minds over in software helped me go thru the process of elimination; replaced the battery, checked the HD and HD cable, reset the CMOS etc.
They thought it might be the PSU, so I changed that but still could not boot-up.
My keyboard lights do not light-up (I tried other working keyboards and tested my keyboard and it worked on other computers) so for some reason no power/signal is getting to the keyboard.

My wife's computer is the same exact model so I used it to swap out and test the hard drive, hard drive connectors, PSU, keyboard, mouse, Optical drive etc.

sach2 asked me to inspect the motherboard for any swollen Caps.
I found only one cap that is just barley swollen with no leaks. see attached photo. it is the larger cap bottom right near heat sink.

here's the link to the motherboard Specs: (it's an A8N-BR (Pyrite) )
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/...ry&lc=en&dlc=en&cc=us&lang=en&product=3257740

So how do I test the motherboard any further?

And is it possible to test the CPU's ?

If it's possible the PSU - keep in mind I have the PSU installed that was working on my wife's computer.
Or could it possibly be the PSU connector on the mother board?

Thanks in advance

 

You mentioned you weren't getting power to your keyboard, are you getting it anywhere else? PSU fan, fans inside the case, HDD indicator light flashing, power LED, anything at all?

 

and yes, it is possible to test CPUs, in the circumstances you describe it will require taking yours out and putting it in your wife's. I suggest trying this as a last option though, here's why:

the process requires steady, slow hands, kinda like the old board game Operation. First, look at the heatsink, there are screws holding it to the motherboard (figure 1 and 2, AM2 socket, heatsink sits over it). Once you remove the screws, lift the heatsink off and you'll be able to see the CPU. The CPU sits in a special housing, there should be a small lever to one side of the housing. Lifting the lever will unlock the CPU and lift one side of it (remember which! Important later when you try to install it) where you can grasp the edges. Be careful not to damage the underside of the CPU. Note the small white triangle on the corner, and on the socket. You'll notice that corner is not full of pins like the others. This is so a CPU can't be installed the wrong way; unfortunately, it makes it very easy to damage the CPU if you try to put it in the wrong way. You'll have to do the same to your wife's PC, then lay your CPU in the socket (with lever up), make sure its seated properly, then lower the lever and lock it in place. Next replace the heatsink and try to boot.

See? Lets leave this for last :-D :major

 

magical2099

Yes the fans power-up, The CD drive lights flash, the HD lights blink only 2-3 times, the PSU's green light is on, the power button light is on.

There is no signal going to the monitor.
I've plugged USB devices in the back panel and none of their LED's light up

So it appears nothing on that back panel is getting any power etc.

 

Is the NIC getting power? On the back of the PC, where the ethernet cable plugs in. Plug it into the net, then boot. There should be one or more LEDs close to the port, check and see if they flash. You're using PS2 mouse and keyboard right?

This is odd. If the power LED is working the motherboard is getting power, but not making it to or through POST. Are you getting any beeps? If so, what is the code? one short, two long, etc.?

Oh, and here's some Light Reading. yours is a socket type.

 

magical2099

Plugged in ethernet and turned computer on. The green LED next to the port did light up but still no boot-up. And yes I am using the original HP PS2 mouse and keyboard.

I've read this HP page for the CPU already. It doesn't quite describe the heat sink I have over the CPU's in this unit.
See here for what the CPU heat sink etc looks like. Also what is the little heat sink just below the large CPU heat sink for?
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/...=us&site=null&product=3245532&key=nullhttp://

Question: If and when we get there... when I go to remove the heat sink that is on the CPU...after removing the 4 screws...isn't it also stuck on with some sort of CPU grease etc?

 

here's a photo of CPU heat sink

 

it does show your heatsink. look closely at the bottom left picture in the first group of four pictures under remove and install socket type

the smaller heatsink: not entirely sure. probably on board graphics, maybe bios.

yes, there is a cooling compound between the heatsink and the CPU, a thick grease. if you're gentle and it looks okay it shouldn't matter, if the PCs are old though you may have to reapply some if you tinker with the CPU. Stuff isn't very expensive, just be sure you don't use too much of it. If it squishes out around the CPU it can cause issues.

If I were you, I would use your PC as a testing ground for practicing the removal and replacement of the CPU. At this point the problem almost has to be the MoBo or CPU, so if you break something, you aren't losing much. Make sure you stay grounded during the procedure, skin touching the metal case of the PC (a forearm will do), you want to avoid static while doing this. Don't forget to disconnect the power line.

This stuff is fun isn't it? I remember the first time I yanked a CPU, I thought I was gonna have a heart attack. Still get a kick from doing it today. Kinda like a good adrenaline rush with out the risking of life and limb ya know? :-D :major Stay grounded, slow, steady, gentle hands. You can do it. And practice before you try it on the one that still works

 

Back when we were testing/eliminating I pulled out memory modules, HD & CD and started up to see if it would beep.
It would beep twice and then keep repeating those 2 beeps. The 2nd beep osf the two was longer than the first.

after about a minute the beep volume would start to lowly die down like a sick/injured animal.

What do those 2 beeps mean?

I will use a Anti-static wrist band when removing the CPU.

Also what are your thought on WHY I have power everywhere but not the keyboard and USB ports???

 

The purpose of POST is to see that the hardware works and will play nice together. The beeping you describe indicates it is aware of the fact it has no RAMM. For some reason, the POST isn't completing, so the computer doesn't seem to be getting far enough into the boot to give power to the mouse and keyboard which could be either A: Mobo, or B: (you guessed it) CPU.

 

magical2099
I unscrewed the 4 screws for the CPU heat sink but the heat sink is still attached. I don't want to force it.

Could the CPU Grease be holding this down?

Also is there any other way to test the MB other than swapping in a working CPU from my wife's computer?

 

so long as the screws are out you're good to go. the heat grease is what is holding it. brace your arms so you maintain pressure, use a firm hand, slow, sometimes it helps if you twist a little, or slide it off. that the grease is holding it is a good sign you won't have to replace it ASAP

as for other testing, maybe a multimeter to test power, but without being able to boot, not that i know of.

 

magical2099

Regarding the small heat sink. Is it possible that could be affecting anything?
The Cap that is slightly bulged is next to it. (See photo bulged cap is to the right of heat sink)

You said it might be BIOS? And if you look at the previous thread we were having a problem of not being able to get to the BIOS because it would not boot up.

I'm just double checking.

 

The small heatsink is going to cover a permanent chip. Most Mobos nowadays are considered field replaceable. You could pull the smaller heatsink and maybe reapply the heat grease and clean it a little, but thats it. If the bulged cap is the issue then the Mobo is already dead.

 

magical2099

I pulled the CPU out of my computer and dropped in my wife's and her computer works fine. So my CPU was OK

I put her CPU in mine and at first I thought it was going to work because the HD lights started up and were steady but that was about it, the light just stayed on steady and wouldn't start-up. I turned it off and restart but the next time there were no HD lights going on.

So I guess this means the Motherboard is CAPUT and I need to get another one

 

you can replace the Mobo, or get another PC and add your RAMM and HDD to it. which ever works best for ya. Since you've done everything now but take the board itself out you should have no trouble installing the new one. Good Luck!

 

magical2099 - Thanks for your help

NOW I need to search for a replacement board.

I found a few places that have the same MB but I would like to get something better if possible but it has to fit in this small case. The max memory this board is designed for is 2 GB but you can put 4gb in and it will use 3GB but that is about as far as it can be stretched.

I'd like a MB that can do at least 4gb -8GB

BUT the MB need to be 6.5" x 6.5" to fit this slimline case.

Any suggestions?

 

Correction:

6.75" x 6.75" is the max size that fits this enclosure :cry

 

eh, yeah. tiny case. idk that you'll find one. that's why i suggested new comp. good hunting! have you tried NewEgg? I don't do a lot of shopping for parts.

Hey! peoples! can we get a suggestion for parts hunting for this guy?

 

You need to search for a microATX mobo
Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MicroATX

NewEgg has 35 listed, but you will have to check the actual size on each because microATX boards are NOT all the same size.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...er=BESTMATCH&Description=microatx+motherboard

Not all on the first page, first 20 listed, give the size. Of the ones that give the size, none is what you need.

 

You get nothing on screen at all when you power on? no options to go to bios, no motherboard manufacture screen? your monitor just reports no signal? test a known working monitor? known working cable?

once you rule out monitor and cable and still no signal, try pulling your ram and reseating it (sounds silly I know but I had an old dell once that would do this every few times it was booted up, pull ram reseat it and boot fine)

 

plodr
Thanks for your help

NewEgg is a good source

Do you have any other vendor/suppliers you can recommend for Motherboards?

 

Sorry, I've never purchased a motherboard.
I have bought other things from newegg, cyberguys, tigerdirect and zipzoomfly.
I'm sure one of the other posters here who has purchased motherboards can give you some vendors to try.

 

I just got a MSI 870A-G54 motherboard from newegg, in fact I purchased everything but my case and hdd from newegg, all good no RMA's needed

 

magical2099
plodr

My PSU on this HP is 108 Watts.

How do I check if a motherboard I want to purchase will work with this 108 watt PSU?

The listings on newegg.com etc do not list the power requirements for each board.

Am I missing something here?

 

Visit the mobo manufacturer's website, look at the specs. Should tell you there. Happy hunting!

 

Whoa, that is low. If it were my power supply, I'd be replacing it.

I'm not suggesting buying from the place I've linked to, I was just trying to find a higher watt power supply
http://www.cputopia.com/psu-replacement-hp-s7600n.html
this still seems low at 250watts.

Let me see if I can find a good power supply at the site I purchased a psu for my old HP tower (it had to be a certain size and how to be a certain wattage).