Atx Size

I need help on which size of ATX to buy for the following components:
Motherboard ASUS Prime Z270-A
RAM Vengeance LPX DDR4 3000 C15
GPU ASUS GeForce 1050Ti
CPU Core i5-7500
SSD Samsung EVO NVMe Pcie M.2 500Gb
Can I assume that I would be able to have an ATX that has DVD drive space?
I have done numerous searches for suitable ATX . I know that the Form Factor 12x9.6inches or 30.5x24.4cm
Thanks for any advice.
Roy

 

Unfortunately, you left out the part that matters most, the case!

Don't worry about the RAM, CPU, SSD or hard drive.

What matters is the case. An full or mid-size ATX case will support a full size, mid, mini or micro-ATX motherboard. But a micro ATX case cannot support a full ATX board.

The RAM and CPU are dependent on the motherboard. See here what it supports. If your case supports a 5.25 in drive bay, it will support the DVD.

Next and arguably the most important component, you also left out. The PSU. All mid or full ATX cases will support ATX power supplies. Micro ATX cases, or "slim" case some times require low profile supplies.

 

Hi Digerati,
Thank you for your reply.
From what you say I can purchase either a full or mid-size with a 5.25 drive bay available which will also contain a PSU?
I have no previous knowledge of building a PC so excuse me if I sound stupid.
The ATX case is the last item I require.
Regards,
Roy

 

ATX is a "form factor" standard all the major makers agreed on to ensure components from Brand A, Brand B, Brand C, Brand D and Brand E all fit physically and electrically together.

Not sure what you mean by "contain". Cases don't normally come with power supplies. You have to buy them separately unless buying a complete factory assembled computer. The point is, however, that an ATX PSU will physically fit inside an ATX compliant case, and electrically support (in terms of voltages and proper connectors) the other ATX compliant components that go inside the case.

That is, the PSU will provide the ATX required +12VDC, +5VDC and +3.3vDC voltages, and use compatible connectors for the motherboard and other components.

You do not need a "full" size case. Those are HUGE and typically designed to support 10 or more hard drives, and 6 or more expansion cards. A full size case is commonly used for buy file servers. A mid-tower case is plenty for most users and will still typically support 5 or more drives and several expansion cards.

Get a good case. A good case will support several large (120mm or larger) case fans (I prefer at least 140mm fans). The sheet metal will have finished edges (smoothed or rolled to prevent shredding your knuckles). It will be "true" - that is exactly 90.0° bends to ensure wobble free standing and zero stress on the motherboard mounting points. I like Fractal Design cases. You will need to look for one that has at least 1 "external" 5.25" drive bay to support your DVD drive.

And I will NEVER EVER buy a case again that does not have removable, washable air filters. It is much much easier to clean the air filters 3 or 4 times a year than it is to break down then lug a big heavy computer outside to blast out the heat trapping dust with compressed air.

A side panel window is nice. I used to think they were just a silly fashion statement because I want to pay attention to what's on my monitors, not what's inside my case. But now I prefer windowed cases because they allow for easy visual inspections to look for dust build-up and spinning fans without having to remove the side panel.

I only slightly touched on the PSU above. This is the most critical purchase and I normally recommend the PSU selection decision be done last - after the other components have been selected so you can make sure you get a supply with sufficient power to support the components connected to it.

A common mistake by many new builders is they try to shave pennies off the budget by buying a cheap power supply. It is not just about power but the quality of the power being outputted. You would not buy a brand new Porsche then fill it up at the corner Tobacco and Bait Shop. Well, you might but an engine can miss a beat and keep running. High speed digital electronics cannot. So you want a quality supply from a quality maker. I generally like EVGA and Seasonic. And I recommend at least an 80 PLUS Bronze, though Gold would be better. 80 PLUS certification ensures the supply's efficiency is at least 80% across the full range of expected loads. That's important in terms of energy costs, but also to help ensure good, clean stable power across all loads.

Another common newbie (and distracted expert alike) mistake is they insert more case standoffs in the case than the motherboard has mounting holes and end up shorting out the motherboard when power is applied. This is because cases are designed to support 1000s of different motherboards. So it is common for cases to have more motherboard mounting holes than the motherboard has. So triple check to make sure you only insert a standoff where the motherboard has a mounting hole.

Asking these questions BEFORE buying sounds pretty smart to me. Remember, everybody was a know-nothing newbie once - something many seem to forget.

Note you typically can go out to your motherboard's (and other components) webpage and download the owner's manual while waiting for the parts to be delivered. In this way, you can review the installation procedures and become familiar with the board and the read the precautions - including for ESD prevention.

 

Hi,
Thank you for the comprehensive run down on ATX cases and PSU. It is very helpfull to have an informed opinion. I have 2 items yet to buy a case and a PSU. I will seek advice anytime when I am not familiar with the subject.
Thank you again for the assistance you provided.
Regards,
Roy

 

I recommend you check out the eXtreme Power Supply Calculator to determine your minimum and recommended power supply unit (PSU) requirements. Plan ahead and plug in all the hardware you think you might have in 2 or 3 years. This might include extra hard drives, a bigger or 2nd video card, more RAM, etc. I recommend setting Computer Utilization to 16 hours per day and CPU Utilization to 100%. These steps adjust for capacitor aging and ensure the supply has adequate head room for stress free (and perhaps quieter) operation. These steps also add a little buffer for unplanned future upgrades or added hardware demands.

Note that all power supply calculators tend to pad their results to avoid ever recommending an underpowered supply. It is always okay to buy a PSU that is bigger than you need (except maybe for the budget) but always bad to buy too small. But buying way too big is not good either because power supplies tend to be the most efficient when operating at 50 to 60% load. So the eXtreme PSU calculator is, by far, the most conservative (a good thing) when it comes to padding results, and that is due, in part, because it has the most flexibility. It is also because they have developers on staff constantly updating the calculator with the latest hardware who wish the eXtreme calculator to be the most accurate. And it is.