DVD-gave up on me?

I was trying to burn some cd's,but my Windows media player was doing failed burns and I read on a forum,many people where having the same problem,so I downloaded cd burner xp,as I run on xp with windows 7,I think,how does one check which version one has?
Anyway,I succeeded in burning two,then my dvd player just gave up,reads blank cd's full and does not even play anything.
Could it be a virus or should I just get another piece of hardware?

 

First get some canned air,open the cdtray and blow out all the inside,try and aim for the laser lens inside.

Make sure you try different types of media also,use decent quality named discs the cheap ones can cause problems.

Download sandralite

http://www.majorgeeks.com/SiSoftware_Sandra_Lite_d92.html

Run the disk drive benchmark,watch for any exclamation marks and make sure your read write and spin speed meets the spec of your drive.

 

In addition to Rikky's tips, identify the make/model of drive (if you're not sure, go to CONTROL PANEL > SYSTEM > DEVICE MANAGER and click on CD/DVD drives).

When you have the make/model of the drive, go to the drive mfr.'s web site and check if there is a firmware update for your specific model - if so, download and install it.

Although compressed air will usually clean loose dust in a CD/DVD drive, I prefer using a drive cleaner (an actual CD designed for cleaning). If you take this route, read the package carefully before buying. If the drive is a half-height (notebook) style drive and/or one in a game console (XBox, PS3, etc.), be sure the drive cleaner states it is OK to use on these types of drives. One of the best is the Maxell Blu-Ray Lens Cleaner; it is safe to use on any type of drive including gaming consoles (Maxell model BR-LC; about $15 at Fry's and likely available at other stores for around the same price).

If these and Rikky's tips fail, I'd cut my losses and get another drive. My experience has been drives often start failing in burning mode before tanking completely. If it is a desktop PC with an open drive bay, you can add a second drive and use the original one for playback (disc-to-disc copy) until it fails completely.

On the bright side, OEM drives are relatively inexpensive. A full height (desktop) internal DVD+RW is about $20-$25; a half height (notebook) DVD+RW can be had for as little as $40. If you plan on getting a new PC soon (or want to swap the new drive between PCs); USB external DVD+RW drives are as low as $30.

If buying an internal drive, be sure to get the correct connection type (IDE or SATA). If adding it as an additional drive in a desktop, you'll also need an additional SATA or IDE cable depending on the connection type.

For the money, I've found ASUS to be the most durable. Stay away from Lite-On, my experience is they have the worst failure rates.

Hope this helps.