Emachine El1852g-52w Won't Detect A Monitor.

It powers on fine but the monitor does not turn on it just sits there with the amber power light. I've tried a few other VGA cables and monitors each with the same result, which leads me to believe that the integrated graphics card has died, but how would I confirm that is the cause since I can't get anything on any monitor? (It's been a while since I've dealt with integrated graphics and not a standalone card)

I'm also not sure if it's a micro ATX case or a mini ATX case to search for a replacement graphics card.

 

Since you have tried different cards and different monitors, that pretty much concludes it is on the computer side. But it does not conclude it is the graphics solution. Your motherboard, CPU, power supply or one of several other components could be bad and the computer is just not booting and/or sending any graphics information to your integrated graphics solution.

As far as the case, a "low profile" card is what to look for. That should fit either case - assuming you have a free PCIe slot. But frankly, I would try to borrow one before paying money.

 

The computer boots fine, lights come on and the fans spin up, so it shouldn't be the power supply or CPU/Motherboard.
Thank you for the info about the cards, I don't normally get small form factor pcs to look at.

Thank you.

 

Is the monitor by any chance plugged into a circuit protected socket? An amber light on the monitor says PSU to me because the graphics is one of the most power intense things on the computer. If it isn't getting enough power to bring up the screen it may be failing. This is just my own observation.

 

Lights coming on and fans spinning is NOT, by any means, an indication the computer has booted up. Lights and spinning fans just means the lights and fans got power.

Boot the hardware and then the operating system are two distinct and highly complex operations that are much more involved than showing a power indicator and spinning fans. Sorry, but from what you have described, there is no way to conclude the computer is "booting" at all!

 

Tested the power supply and all the reading came back as if it were working, but the system does not POST, which leads me to believe that it's either the motherboard or processor, but I don't know how else to test those.

 

How? Note your typical multimeter is not good enough. They don't test for excessive ripple and other anomalies that affect computer stability. And PSUs need to be tested under a wide variety of expected loads. It takes a qualified technician using an oscilloscope or power supply analyzer - sophisticated (and expensive!) electronic test equipment requiring special training to operate, and a basic knowledge of electronics theory to understand the results to conclusively test a power supply.

Ah. Then it is not booting as indicated in posts #1 and #4 above. That changes everything.

Sadly, there is no way you can test a CPU - that can only be done at the factory. And the only way to test a motherboard is with a second compatible CPU. But then you risk damaging that CPU if it is the motherboard.

Sorry. This is where you probably should take it to a reputable large shop. I say large because smaller shops don't like have spare CPUs laying around either - that they would be willing to sacrifice. And even still, just troubleshooting can take a couple labor hours making repairs not cost effective - especially if parts are need on top of that.

You next step is to beg, borrow, or steal another power supply and temporarily install that and see what happens. If the same problem, you probably should start shopping around for a new computer. Sorry I don't have better news.

 

With one of these - https://www.amazon.com/Insten-24-pi...518379418&sr=8-4&keywords=power+supply+tester
Not the exact same one but the same generalization.

Okay, thank you for your help and insight,

 

I have slightly more advanced tester, one of these I keep in my tool bag in my truck for house calls. This one is nice because it shows the actual voltage so I can tell if it is within the allowed ±5% tolerances - at least with the tester's internal load. You don't really know how well it is complying required voltages with a simple LED. All you really know is if a voltage is missing.

However, none of those testers test for ripple and they only provide a little "dummy load", not a variety of "realistic" loads. So while better than nothing, using one of these testers is not a conclusive test. They are good to verify (in some cases) if a PSU is bad, but not if good.

 

Thank you. I did not know that, I don't have to use that tester all that often maybe I'll have to look into getting a better one at some point.

 

If I had your tester, I would not get a better one. The advantages of a better one are not that significant - they still cannot test for ripple and they still don't provide a variety of loads that computer power supplies continually see through normal use in every computing session.

If you frequently troubleshoot computers, invest in decent spare power supply. Swapping in a good spare to see if the same problem continues or goes away is a very conclusive test to determine if the original PSU is good or bad. This is a "tried and true" troubleshooting method used by professionals too. It is a lot easier to take a known good spare power supply on a trouble call than it is to lug around an oscilloscope and/or dedicated power supply analyzer.

And with your current tester connected to that spare PSU, you can power up that spare PSU on your test table and use it to test fans, drive motors, case lighting and other things.

If you want to buy something now, get a AC Outlet Tester to ensure your outlet is properly wired and grounded. I recommend one with a GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupt) indicator as it can be used to test bathroom and kitchen outlets (outlets near water) too. These testers can be found for your type and voltage outlet, foreign or domestic, (like this one for the UK) at most home improvement stores, or even the electrical department at Wal-Mart. Use it to test all the outlets in the home and if a fault is shown, have it fixed by a qualified electrician.