Finally going to put a Aftermarket Cooler on my CPU

I went and got this
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835214023
Model

BrandENERMAXModelETS-T40-TBSpec

TypeFan & HeatsinksFan Size120mmCompatibilitySocket AM2/AM2+/AM3/AM3+/FM1/LGA 775/1155/1156/1366/2011Bearing TypeTwisterRPM800 ~ 1800 RPMAir Flow37.57 ~ 86.70CFMNoise Level10 ~ 21dBAPower Connector4 PinHeatsink MaterialCopper heat pipes, aluminum finsPhysical Spec

Fan Dimensions120 x 120 x 25 mmHeatsink Dimensions139(L) x 70(W) x 160(H)mmWeight610gFeatures

FeaturesWorld leading thermal resistance performance of 0.09 Degrees C/W.

Side flow type with four diameter 6mm high performance heat pipes.

Unique T.B.Silence PWM fan to adjust the power efficiently and keep the silence.

Anti-vibration rubbers prevent fan vibration and absorb noise.

High thermal conductivity grease to ensure the best thermal conduction between CPU and the heat sink.

I wonder how well this well work on my AMD Athlon II X2 260 (OC) 3.68Ghz
I think its a good Heat sink sounds like it with all of the good reviews.

 

i don't really know what my temp is my Speccy is only telling me my motherboard temp that's about 105 witch i think is a bit warm will the new heat sink cool the mob too

 

HWmonitor is saying my CPU temp is 32F i don't think they are correct but if they are well that new After market cooler well drop the temp even more.

 

There's something big time wrong here. I think you need to look at your PSU. Your attachment says the +12VDC was coming in at +13.82VDC. That is way out of tolerance. And it says your +5VDC is reading +3.15VDC. That too is way out of tolerance. As seen in the tolerance chart here, with maximum loading, tolerances go up to ±10% for the +12VDC, but that still only allows for a maximum of 13.2VDC. Your PSU (according to that monitoring report) is bad and needs to be tested, or swapped out with a known good one. At least try another monitoring program. Many BIOS Setup Menus have a PC Health page where you can check temps and voltages. Or your motherboard should have come with a utilities disk. And you might consider a PSU tester like the one in the above link. Though not conclusive, one would be nice right about now.

Also, sorry, but I think you made a mistake buying that cooler (assuming it is replacing a functional OEM cooler). Besides the fact aftermarket coolers void your warranties (NOT a concern for many-and that's fine as long as they are aware of ALL the facts), but OEM coolers, in spite of what many might say, are excellent coolers. They have to be since they are warrantied for 3 years and most aftermarket coolers, like your Coolermaster, are for just 1. That tells me they do not have much confidence in the those fan bearings.

But also, note the orientation of that fan. It blows sideways, not down. Motherboard designers purposefully position heat sensitive and heat generating devices surrounding the CPU socket, so they too can take advantage of the "anticipated" OEM cooler's air flow. So while that horizontal orientation may cool the CPU just fine, you need to take extra care to ensure your case is providing sufficient cooling for everything else. Easily doable, but must not be ignored.

And right now, with your voltages in question, extra care must be taken. Many of those heat generating devices could be working double time (generating a lot more heat) trying to compensate for (regulate) those "alleged" out-of-tolerances voltages. If they are struggling for cool air too, troubled times may be ahead.

This may just be a sensor or monitor program issue. But you need to verify NOW, whether your PSU is good, or bad, before any (more?) damage occurs.

 

Discussing/debating the "facts" is what forums are about. Launching puerile personal insults at others when disagreeing with their position instead of debating the facts or defending their own position is what drags the whole process down. Sadly, there are some who always take it personal whenever someone disagrees with their "facts" or opinions. That's not what personal means in personal computers.

So if I say something wrong or not clear, please do challenge me. But if you do think I am wrong, please don't attack me. Challenge my facts and defend your position with supporting evidence or sound rational. And by "you" and "your", I am speaking to the crowd, not you specifically, gloozit.

It doesn't but that is not the point. "Flow" or movement of air is what matters most. Yes, the temperature matters too, but warm rapidly moving (turbulent) air is much better at cooling than cool stagnant air!

Right. And when the fan fires down, the flow is disbursed out in all directions, spreading out (and across) all the devices surrounding the socket. But when the fan is horizontally orientated, the air blows in just one direction, which may leave many heat sensitive/generating devices without the "anticipated" air "moving" across it.

If the horizontally oriented fan blows across the chipset/northbridge then what is typically called the "system" temp will be good. But other unmonitored devices may not, including the sensitive regulator circuits. But side firing aftermarket fan designers do not know where the chipset will be and side firing fans don't always blow across the chipset.

So again, the problem can easily be nullified with good case cooling, but alternative coolers users should get on top and stay on top of this before implementing. Motherboards designers are highly educated electrical engineers using sophisticated CAE software to engineer motherboards. I am not smarter than them so when they pick a downward firing HSF, I am not going to doubt them.

For the record, I have had several computers come into the shop where users decided to implement water cooling without doing their homework first. Note the typical and popular Corsair water coolers use no fan. These users were so proud their overclocked CPUs were running in the 20°s, until their motherboard fried.

And to water cooling, I am not a supporter. The problem with water cooling is the older the water cooling setup gets, the more frequent the preventative maintenance inspections should be. Hoses get stiff, joints work loose and leaks can occur. But sadly, it is a human characteristic to get bored and tired of things once the newness and novelty wear off. So after a few months or a year of trouble-free service, things get ignored, and problems develop.

So I am not against alternative cooling, but unless the user is committed to a long-term commitment, I recommend sticking with OEM coolers. They are more than capable - even with moderate overclocking. 10 years ago I might not have said the same thing.

 

Well, I have to say this thread and sach2's thread on graphics cards were interesting. Didn't know aftermarket coolers would void a warranty and thought the CPU fan blew up instead of down. The watercooling issue was surprising as well.Thanks to everybody for increasing my knowledge on the hardware side of computers.

 

To clarify, that is for CPUs that come packaged with OEM coolers in the box. Both AMD and Intel have several "OEM" CPUs that are packaged with no cooler. Of course, in those situations, you must use an aftermarket cooler.

However, CPUs that do not come with a cooler, while less expensive, are warrantied for just 1 year. "Boxed" CPUs packaged with coolers are warrantied for 3 years. Again, none of this may be a concern to enthusiasts. But most home builders do care about warranties and everyone has the right to know all the facts to make an informed decision that is best for them.

I remember years ago there were some (I think AMD) coolers where the fans were mounted upside down, and did blow up. But studies have shown that turbulent air blasting directly (all in one direction) onto heatsinks is more effective at removing heat than air that is gently being drawn in from several directions. So now they all (as far as I know) blow onto the heatsink.

 

I will show you all my parts that i have.

Well here is my PSU power supply that i am using
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817170010

I had too Disconnect the out blowing Fan be cause it was making tons of noise seems to be running fine.But i could be pushing the psu's power limit. not sure though.But i don't think i am.im pretty sure i have enough juice for every thing.I still have the fan that blows air in pluged in works fine.

Model

BrandLOGISYS ComputerModelPS550ABK

Spec
TypeATX12V
Maximum Power550Watts
Fans2 x 80mm fans
PFCNo
Main Connector20+4Pin
+12V RailsSingle
PCI-Express ConnectorNo
SATA Power Connector2
SLINo
CrossFireNo
ModularNo
Over Voltage ProtectionYes
Input Voltage100 - 240 V
Input Frequency Range50/60 Hz
Input Current10A @ 115V, 5A @ 230V
Output+3.3@30A, +5V@38A, +12@25A, -12V@0.8A, -5@0.5A, +5VSB@2A
MTBF>100,000 Hours
Dimensions5.8" X 5.5" X 3.3"

What other Questions are you asking your kinda confussing me here.And if i was Over Voltage then the protector would kick in.

 

Yes, but only after blasting down first - not to mention, many, if not most these days, OEM coolers are round, so not two, but all directions. I use mostly Intel processors and for some time, they have been round. Not to mention, most coolers and mounting assemblies are keyed or notched in some way so the coolers can only be mounted one way.

That is not true at all. Motherboard makers know EXACTLY which CPUs are supported by that board - it is programmed in the chipset, and the CPU socket itself dictates which CPUs will fit. In fact, most motherboard makers post QVLs (qualified vendors lists) of compatible CPUs for each of the motherboards. And of course, only Intel, or only AMD will fit a particular board. So, designers have no choice but to go by what they can expect from the OEM makers.

Note I am not saying there will be a problem. I am saying there could be - so check your case cooling.

Exactly! For someone who does not agree with me, you sure are doing a good job of making MY points! BECAUSE the engineer does NOT know, they have no choice BUT to use the expected OEM cooler(s) as a guide.

And I should have said, please do challenge my facts - not me. This is not a personal conversation, but a technical one. So this is not about who said something. It is about what was said. No one is perfect. We all make mistakes. And technology advances often change the status quo. So the need to verify facts is essential. What used to be right, may now be wrong. And most importantly, disagreeing with facts someone said is not, and should not be construed as something personal. Mature technical discussions have no room for that. If I am wrong, show us - with links. Please don't attack me - especially if I am just being the messenger.

I think I would look for a different supply, and keep that one for testing fans and drive motors. The price makes it clear it is a budget supply and that company is not known as a quality supply maker. The quality is suspect because of the price, but also the PSU is not 80 PLUS certified. 80 Plus certification requires the PSU to maintain 80% or better efficiency under a variety of realistic loads. 80% efficiency is hard to obtain for any power supply, and even harder to maintain that across a variety of loads. So in order to get there, designers MUST use good designs AND better quality parts with tighter tolerances. So even 80 Plus certified PSUs from makers with less than stellar reputations have to put their best foot forward if they want their PSUs 80 Plus certified.

Also note that PSU does not have any PCIe power connectors. That could be a (small) problem in the future. I personally like Corsair and Antec PSUs.

A good, solid, PSU is one of the most critical components in your system and it is NOT where you should cut corners in the budget. I like to say, would you put off-brand gas from the corner Tobacco Hut in your new Porsche? You might, but would you expect it to run right? A motor can miss a beat and keep on running. Not so with sensitive, high-speed, digital electronics.

So feed your baby good food. If not 80-Plus certified, look somewhere else.

 

Checking in the BIOS is a good idea because it is done without any influences from the OS, or those hardware monitoring programs. But understand the BIOS is just a software program too. And it is using the exact same el-cheapo supreme "remote" sensors as the HW monitoring programs do - whether talking temps or voltages. These programs do not "measure" voltages directly with voltage measuring test equipment. Plus, and this is important, the BIOS information provides no information about ripple and other anomalies which may, and often do adversely affect a PSU's performance. Properly measuring a power supply is done by a qualified technician using an oscilloscope or power analyzer - sophisticated (and expensive) electronic test equipment requiring special training to operate, and a basic knowledge of electronics theory to understand the results. Therefore, conclusively testing a power supply is done in properly equipped electronic repair facilities, and not by a software program running within the OS, or BIOS.

So again, the only way to CONCLUSIVELY test if the OP's problem is a PSU issue or not is to swap in a known good PSU, or have that PSU properly tested.

I do NOT recommend the use of a multimeter because to test properly, the supply must be under a proper load - meaning connected and running in the computer and probes inserted with considerable force into power connectors while the computer is running. And most multimeters do not test for ripple.

 

My comments on that PSU:
It's at least a 6 year old design.
It's selling at less than $20.
Only 43% of verified owners give it 5 eggs, 28% give it 2 or less.

It might have been up to running a P4 or Celeron with onboard or basic AGP/PCI-E graphics for a few months or so but there's no way I'd want that heap of junk on any overclocked CPU.

You want to reduce noise and heat - replace it with a Seasonic or other quality brand and have done with it.

 

I got my Aftermarket Cooler To day.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-na&AID=10446076&PID=4003003&SID=18q9kribnuqn

It took me over 1 hour too install it.

Word of warning to all that buy this Aftermarket Cooler Its huge it is a lot bigger then it looks in the picture.

But it does the job.

I install it the Brackets are kinda confusing.there are two different Brackets and screws for intel and AMD setups.

But is does it's job

CPU
AMD Athlon II X2 260 91 *F
Regor 45nm Technology
RAM
8.00 GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 608MHz (9-9-9-24)
Motherboard
MSI 870A-G54 (MS-7599) (CPU1) 92 °F
Graphics
Default Monitor (1280x1024@75Hz)
Default Monitor (1280x1024@60Hz)
1023MB GeForce GTX 550 Ti (EVGA) 106 °F
Hard Drives
156GB Seagate ST3160316AS (SATA) 90 °F
78GB Western Digital WDC WD800AAJS-00WAA0 (SATA) 88 °F
Optical Drives

The Temp in the whole computer is about 80 *F

So it really Works Well But Fare Warning this is huge
Make sure you check every thing be for you put this in do not put the thermal paste on till you no every thing is a ok for the case fit.
Oh and make sure you order some Extra thermal paste they do give you some but i do not think its enough.
take like a Credit card or some thing like that and spread it around.

 

Great! I am glad it worked for you.

Also, and I sure don't know why since the PC industry really started off in the US, but normally, when talking temps on a technical level, Celsius is used and what most trained technicians and CompSci people use. So 91°F sounds scary (at first glance), 32.7°C sounds great! Really great. So is 41.1°C for your card.

Ummm, not enough? One of the biggest mistakes users make is using too much TIM. Usually single drop the size of a grain of rice is all you need. The purpose of TIM is to ONLY fill the microscopic pits and valleys in the mating surfaces to push out any trapped air (air being an excellent insulator - when insulation is the last thing you want here). The best heat transfer occurs with direct metal-to-metal contact so any excess TIM is in the way, and in spite of being highly conductive, is actually counterproductive to the heat transfer process by forcing the heat to pass through something not needed - which delays moving the heat out to the fins.

 

My Side Case fit just fine i guess i don't need to go with any water Cooling.The Fit Got extremely close to the very edge of my Top edge of case it was like in centimeter close.

And like i said Do not put any Paste on till you know every thing fits.

length wise its about 2 and 1/2 inchs long.

Heatsink Dimensions139(L) x 70(W) x 160(H)mm

 

:eek Sorry I did not notice that earlier.

I discourage that practice. And I would urge you to NEVER power up a CPU (or any IC that requires a heatsink) without ensuring a proper layer of paste is applied first. If you have not done so yet, I can not express enough how important it is that you stop now, and apply a proper layer before going further.

A clamp might slip, or might be slightly bent and not quite set right. The heatsink's mating surface may not be, and likely is not as flat, smooth or level as it appears. And that cooler is pretty near entry level - one of, if not the cheapest Newegg sells (which puzzles me why you selected that over the OEM, but that's another discussion). The only thing that might save the CPU in those events would be the paste. The only time not using TIM would be if both the CPU die and the heatsink mounting surfaces have been properly lapped (which means not with a thumb).

Once it is determined it will fit, the HSF assembly should be pulled and a fresh layer of new paste applied. I think you might have been lucky this time. While CPUs do have self-protection features built-in, they are not designed to protect unprotected CPUs and may not react fast enough to such instant overheated states. Dealing with a fan stopping is one thing, but no protection at all, or extremely compromised cooling is another. An unprotected CPU will heat up in an instant. Remember, most monitoring programs have a very long sampling rate. Often once every 5 seconds. And a lot can happen in just 1.

You don't have to use the expensive stuff while sizing and testing. Plain ol' silicon grease (which shops buy by the pints) used for decades is cheap, as effective as OEM pads, easy to use, not too hard to clean (if applied sparingly in the first place) and most importantly, protect the CPU.

I am not sure I am picturing this right in my head so I have to ask, is that centimeter the size of the gap the fan is using for its air intake? Or is that the side of the HS and the fan has full access to open space to draw air from?

 

I hope you are right, but in Post 18 above, he installed the cooler, said it worked, then posted temps to show it worked. Not sure how you can get temps, if not powered up.

I then asked what TIM was used, and in Post 21, the reply was

Unless I am reading those two posts wrong, it sure appears the CPU was indeed powered up without TIM.

 

Sorry but I am not exactly sure what you mean by "full" ATX case. Do you mean standard size ATX case, as in "full" tower case? The bigger brother to the more commonly used mid-tower case?

Or by full, do you mean full of components?

The grammar was fine but without seeing facial expressions or "tone" of voice, I can only go by the message and since the reply was a direct reply to my question, I gotta go by that. (Side note - because we cannot see facial expressions, body language and hear tone of voice, we need to go by what was said, and especially don't read anything "personal" in the message if nothing personal was said. So please, I mean nothing personal - in any of my posts. )

There are many who were never told just how important TIM is so I am just trying to ensure it is known now. It is not "common-sense" knowledge among all computer users. That is NOT a criticism of any users! Just an observation from these forums, and seen in my own shop. CPUs with no TIM. CPU sockets covered with squished-out TIM. Reused old TIM. Or the use of automotive dielectric grease! That is not the same thing as "thermal interface" grease! Somewhere - the TIM industry? IEEE? Cooler makers? Intel? AMD? Us as helpers? - somewhere there's a failure to get the word out to everyone who dabbles in computer maintenance, the importance of TIM. Same with the need for regular cleaning and ESD prevention.

I was taught in tech school in 71-72 how to apply silicon grease to a 50W power transistor (one transistor, the size of a 50 cent piece - super high tech back then! :major). And proper use was reiterated each time I went back to school over the next 30 years for something new. And I know tech schools today teach it, and with more advanced compounds too.

But the word is not getting out far enough.

So my point is to emphasis the need to always use a proper layer of TIM and a securely attached heatsink (and fan, if "active") on all ICs that normally require it. Even while testing. Perhaps especially while testing.

That sounds good, as long as there are plenty of ventilation holes/slots. It might be a place that collects dust well too so keep an eye on it for a few months/years.

For the record, I will never get, or recommend a case that does not have removable, washable air filters. Rinsing out a filter in the sink is lot easier than tearing down and lugging the system outside for blasting every 2 - 3 months.