Ford Ranger clutch question

Anyone have any knowledge of these? Around the 2002 year and a 4.0 liter engine.

Think I may have a slave or master cylinder problem......presuming it would make sense to replace the clutch at the same time as I think I need to drop the trannie first and it has nearly 100k on the clock.

Thoughts? Anyone done this on one of these rigs before?

 

are you losing fluid at the master cylinder? if yes, then you should not have to replace clutch. but if you are not having to add fluid then the cylinders are ok, fluid and you will need to check the clutch. first of all try adjusting the clutch,to tighten it,if that doesnot help then im affraid the poor old clutch is gone!! if you replace clutch,replace the slave,it is not much, and worth it. hey i finally got to help with something i know instead of allways asking for help.............. cool have a good one bobgar34

 

Lev why have you never told me you had a Ford you know i'm a Ford fan.

If it needs a clutch now Ford is starting to slip you know my old 1986 Isuzu has 250K and still has the factory clutch also the transmission never worked on still shifts like new and the motor well i rebuilt the head lol

 

Thanks for the advice guys

Well, we do have to top up the fluid but haven;t jumped in yet to find where it might be leaking from. Suddenly the pedal goes "loose" and you have to pump it to get the clutch back again. There are no obvious outward leaks and it has been bled and that made no difference, hence I'm thinking master and slave cylinder. This problem is very erratic...it can go all week like new and then suddenly it won't shift and the clutch pedal is to the boards with no effort.

So NJ...do I have to drop the trannie to do it? I know Ford clutches go on and on, but would hate to do all that and find 20,000 down the road the clutch plates are slipping.

 

I'll ask my friend tomorrow what he thinks. He knows more about cars than anyone else i have met.

 

Please tell me what you mean by top up, is the master cylinder empty when the pedal goes soft,if so you have a leak and it needs to be found.

Brake fluid is a corrosive substance (it can strip paint) so any leaks need to be found.
Open the Hood and feel around the bottom of the plastic container that holds the fluid,if it is dry or just moist the problem lies elsewhere, try to trace the pipes leading from the master cylinder to check for leaks, if the pipes are metal check for corrosion if they are plastic check for wear, if the rub against body parts they can develop a tiny hole, get some body to press the clutch pedal while you are checking for leaks.
next if no leaks are found then we go to the slave cylinder ( it is normally on the side of the tranny) if its a dry day have a good look at the cylinder this should also be dry if so we go to the next step.
on the end of the slave cylinder there is a plate attached that goes into the side of the bell housing (the dish shaped part between the motor and the transmission ), if you can loosen the 2 nuts and free the plate then try to push and pull the rod in and out of the slave cylinder,if it moves in and out the seals inside are defective, these can be replaced by any reasonably competent DIY mechanic or if you prefer the unit can also easily be replaced.

when reassembling the unit adjust the 2 nuts so that the plat has just the tiniest amount of movement (if it's too tight this will allow the clutch to slip and if its too slack it will not disengage the tranny completely).

If after all this the results are the same then it's time to look at the clutch.

http://img516.imageshack.us/img516/8089/000202c44628297bh4.gif

 

I don't know that yet.......I will have more info once I get under the thing There are certainly no obvious leaks..it is not dripping to the ground at all.

Thanks for the suggestions Bill - I will look in to this when hubby finally stops driving it around and gives me long enough to look at it :-D

 

Surgery is tomorrow, being as I have a 4-day weekend to hit it.

 

You jinxed me because yesterday my Clutch Cable on the P'UP snapped lol

 

So quit reading my threads

 

Hey NJ....this heavy duty enough to lower the trannie with? It's the 4.0 liter XLT. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=39178

Been diagnosing tonight and I'm pretty certain it is the master, slave and pressure plate at fault, or some combination with leaky lines.

 

Whats wrong with your hands? lol should work fine.

 

My hands are holding up the engine while my teeth undo the clutch housing bolts You don't want to know how I'm typing this!!!

 

Oh i can guess.. lol

 

So to get it on the axle stands.......what's the big difference apart from the bucks? Does it matter? Pros/cons? Flexibility for other uses (though I cannot think of any right now except the trucks and cars). Floor jack is easier to get it under and raise, but I plan to live under the rig this weekend anyway, so for $50 I say git 'r' done...right?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=34271

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93373

 

I would go with a floor jack as it can be used alot more different ways where a bottle jack is stuck to one spot.

If i was buying a floor jack this is what i would get
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...&group_ID=1716&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
I have used them before and there great and will lift just about anything you want, Hell its rated for 2ton but i lifted that 3-4ton Durango with one. And they are Snap-On so they carry the lifetime replacement.

 

Heck - if I could afford it I would buy Snap-on everytime, but I can't. We used to use them all the time when I worked at the airport in the hangers.

Well, I only just got to read this as I've been in the garage all day. But I did buy the floor jack 4 ton and it's doing great, as are the 6 ton axle stands. Best purchase was probably the padded crawling board though...sweet piece of kit! Ready to drop the trannie in to the trannie jack first thing tomorrow. As soon as I got on the job today a migraine started to kick in so that slowed me down, that and a double driveshaft, having not worked on a 4x4 before.

Here's a giggle for ya! I had my husband take the rig up to the car wash to clean off all the underside. It was a little muddy, but mostly just dust. Nothing like the off-road jeeps get around here. The car wash guys told him he couldn't take his rig through as it was too dirty!!!

 

Lev 1 - Transmission 0

Lev 0 - Slave Cylinder 1

Lev 1 - Clutch 0

Slowly beating this sucker

Off to buy parts...l8rz .

 

good to see you found the problem Lev

 

Yeah Bill......going to change the whole clutch anyway as I'm in there. I don't plan on dropping the trannie again for a VERY long time (rubs sore body parts).

 

Day 4 - reassembly - just waiting for the flywheel to be machined.

Ford put some funky bolts heads on their rigs (probably to stop you doing home maintenance. Bit late to take it in once the trannie is dropped )

Next time we buy a Dodge!!!

 

LMAO Stay away from Dodge. All the parts on a Dodge is Dealer ONLY!!!!! and cost a ton of money. That Durango outside the Transmission alone is $4000!! Heck its turn signal lights are dealer parts.. Stay with Ford. Chevrolet (Cracked Heads Every Valve Rattles Oil Leaks Every Time.) makes things to hard to work on if you ever worked on one you would see what i mean. Don't get me started on Toy let me just say on there V8 trucks the Starter is below the intake. Why i don't know. But you would have to replace the intake gaskets if you had to change the starter among other things.

 

About an hour ago you could hear me cheering and jumping for joy in the driveway as...

"Gentleman - start your engines"...

and my husband reversed it out the garage with no grinding noise or multiple pumping of the clutch pedal.

WOW! What a journey! :-D

 

Good job on getting it done LUV now come fix the PUP for me i don't feel like messing with it

Journey!?!?!?!? I want to hear Faithfully

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OKorl7Ouht0

 

WELL DONE LEV
http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/6577/000202c47397562zs2.gif

 

Hehe thanks Bill

NJ - the vid link is duff. And don't be so lazy - get in there and fix the PUP I got offered a job today as a mechanic. I asked if it paid as good as my current job LOL which it didn't....no surprise there.

 

Though it appears you did (and do) very well, and that the gang here really did you justice, just for future reference - in case you happen to get "stuck" - I thought I'd point you in this direction:

http://www.ford-trucks.com/
(not affiliated with Ford Motor Co.)

These folks really helped me a lot (IMMENSELY at times) over the years (before I had to sell my Ranger). Individual forums for just about every topic you can imagine (including, "Ranger" and of course a "Clutch/Transmission/Differential/Axle and Transfer-Case" Forum).

I hope you never need `em, but just in case - I hope it helps!

g ...

 

Thanks grc123....happy to report the Ranger is going good. If it ever needs a new clutch again I'm selling it and upgrading to at least the F150

 

Heck, why stop there, I hear the F-650 is nice!