Installing heatsink/fan combo over CPU

The article you looked at re-backplate, was for AM2 fitting, you have 939.
I would leave it off.

 

Hi baklogic,

Thanks for helping.

The article that I read was for another computer but my CPU came with the backplate with instructions to fit it to the heat sink supporter also. The instructions were so poor and the pictures so tiny that I couldn't see where I was supposed to place the plate. Now I understand that it should have been placed below the supporter before the supporter was screwed into the motherboard.

There are 3 fasteners that are involved with the heat sink/fan and CPU.

The lever was the last fastener to be "connected." If you were looking at the heat sink/fan and CPU when the computer is standing up properly, the lever is located on top of the heat sink/CPU. The two other clips connect the heat sink to the frame, one on top of the heat sink and one on the bottom. The lever locks the top clip to the frame so it can't come loose.

The last time I tried to removed the CPU, the lever raised but I couldn't undo the clips on the top and bottom of the CPU. Today, the lever won't budge. The handle of the lever moves down as far as it can go, but it doesn't release. Unless it releases, I can't unclip the 2 clips that are located on the top and bottom of the heat sink and CPU. Since I don't have the strength to disconnect the fasteners, if the plate is vital, I'll take it to a computer repair shop and have him remove the heat sink/fan and CPU and do the rest myself. They probably wouldn't charge me because it wouldn't take a even minute to do.

The heat sink/fan can be seen at

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-Details.asp?EdpNo=636205&sku=S457-1017

and the clip that you can see has an identical one on the other side of it. Mine is the Masscool AMD K8 Cooler Fan.

The motherboard in the next picture shows a yellow frame. The frame was to be removed and the metal plate was supposed to be placed under it and the 2 pieces were to be screwed into the motherboard.

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-detailsInactive.asp?EdpNo=1559988

The CPU was placed inside the yellow frame and the heat sink/fan was placed on top of the yellow frame, clipped on with the top and bottom clips and then a lever on top was pressed down to keep the clips from moving (as if they could!)

So I can't get the lever to release in order to release the 2 clips so that I can remove the heat sink/fan and frame in order to place the plate down first. I'm sorry if this is confusing but I can picture it in my mind but I just can't do it.

 

I can see what you have , now.
The cpu is usually clipped into its socket, with a lever to lock it.
The heatsink shows like normal, sprung clip, which is esiest taken off with a screwdiver- very carefully-,so as not to slip, and damage the motherboard.if you look, one side has a extra bit to do this.
The lever is probably difficult to get to, -graphics card in the way?
If you reremove anything near that lever, and are very careful, you should be able to hook a short screwdriver into the little notch at the bottom of the lever - just don't lever on the motherboard.

 

Updat, hopefully clearer instruction.
I still do not think you need to change it - it is well fixed, and the temperatures were o.k, but if you insist on removing it,............
If there is no graphics card in the way, you have a little slot at the base of the lever that could be used via a screwdriver, very carefully to lift, - just do not lever on the motherboard.
The spring clip should have an extra piece , probably next to the lever, where, again a screwdriver can be used to press down and lever outwards to release it.
Be careful not to slip and damage the motherboard.
The yellow plate is usually easiest removed with the motherboard out of chassis, by pushing the pins up from below.
The cpu might be adhered to the hatsink, so twist it gently, and it should not pull the cpu out with the heatsink.

 

Sorry, but I have to sgn off now, Fred, Shanemail, or, Asus might look in later, if they are on-line, even Walter, as he might know more about that sata card that appears to have caused problems,I hope.
Just a last mention, one thing that can also cause a semingly dead board, is a short, to the board, so, if you do go that far, you can check no little screws, or anything is shorting the board out, when you start again, with minimum install to see if a cure @happened@ - catch you tommorrow.

 

I just tried using a screwdriver that has changeable bits. I chose a square bit and pressed down on the clips as hard as I could with both hands and I couldn't get it down far enough. If I had been able to get the clips down where they needed to be, I would have needed a third hand to move the clips outward so that they wouldn't get attached again. If I really need to place the metal plate under the bracket, I'll take it to a computer repair shop.

But I'm wondering now if not having the metal plate installed caused the problem that I'm having.

 

I am with Backlogic. If it ran for a week or more, and the temps are good, then you should be ok on that aspect. I hate bad instructions. I built an Intel computer for a friend of mine, and well the stuff was unclear. I just put it in, so far so good on that one.

I think we are waiting on a PSU right? I vote that we get the new PSU installed, and worry about the offending metal piece later.

DeniseM, you do have a sledgehammer or another large tool propped up on the case to let it know you are serious about it right?:cool

 

No, but I give it the evil eye every time I look at it :strong

I have no other option except to wait until the new PSU comes in and I get it installed. If it doesn't fix the problem, there is a sledge hammer in the garage! And I'm not afraid to use it!

But, as for getting the heat sink/fan off of the CPU, there's no way that I can do it. The plate might have been needed to raise the heat sink/fan so as to get more air flow and without it, it might be overheating. The temperature reading that I get when I boot up gives me the overall temperature inside the case, not the temperature of the CPU. But, if or when I get the computer running again, I'm going to use the Everest program recommended by baklogic so that I'll know the temp of the CPU for sure. If it's not overheating, I'll leave it as it is, but if it is, it has to be fixed. *groan*

 

Hi denise,

I know you are keen, but it is always a good idea to do one thing at a time.
If the heatsink does not want to come off - leave it there !

I would just concentrate on getting the computer running again (PSU ?)

In the meantime keep looking around the web for fans and whatever else you may think you will need in the future. The more time you take the more info you will have, you will also find more products and possibly better deals.

by the way, most heatsinks are a pain in the preverbial to fit and remove.

Regarding the signing in to the site, do you have 'remember me' selected on the login box ?
I do, and I never have to log in at all (unless I run CCleaner or something of that nature)

 

Here are a few links to fan manufacturers web sites

Arctic cooling
http://www.arctic-cooling.com/

Evercool
http://www.evercool.com.tw/index_eng.htm

SilenX
http://www.silenx.com/index.asp

Akasa
http://www.akasa.co.uk/

Thermalright
http://www.thermalright.com/

Thermaltake
http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/

there are others of course !!
the ones in bold are the ones I am currently using

 

Hi shanemail,

Thanks for the links to the sites but I already bought a fan that baklogic recommended, but I'll keep the sites in my Favorites list.

Yeah, I don't think that heat sink/fan is going to come off, not unless I don't care if I ruin it and the motherboard along with it. I'll see what it does when I install the new PSU. I think it'll do fine though because I had it on for over 2 days straight and it was processing, uploading and downloading the entire time, not an idle second. If the CPU can take that, I think it'll be alright.

I still have to get a fan for the front of the case but I'd like to enjoy the computer for a few weeks before I start working on it again.

I do check the box "remember me" but it doesn't. If this post takes me more than about 15 minutes to write, I'll have to sign in again when I click to post it.

 

Probably your own security settings, I guess ?
if you start a thread in the lounge, you should get a good response

 

After sleeping on it, I think you might have come to the right conclusion about the heatsink fitting.I am annoyed for not picking up on that when you said how tight it was.I can only say, sorry, none of us had considered it.
It leads me to say that the extra plate might have made it easier to remove, and possibly, as you deducted, it would raise the heatsink slightly off the motherboard, and not put so much pressure on the cpu,- so us unwise heads might have got that wrong :banghead - and , yes, it could be a cause of problems, as too much pressure on the cpu, could well have done some damage.
Let us hope, not - I suggest you take it to the shop, if possible, with a stick of memory, and the plate, and see if its a good shop, if they can test it,before, and after taking the heatsink, and fan off, and fitting the plate. rolleyes With luck it will be o.k- :guitar

 

Missed the last two posts, for some reason, If the psu comes, wait until you fit it, if you like.

 

If I am reading this right it says the plate goes on the back of the motherboard (before the motherboard goes in ?)
So, Im guessing this is more to do with supporting/distributing the weight of the heatsink than anything else

 

Yes, I missed that bit,WELL SPOTTED Shanemail, like I said in another place, I have only seen them fitting to the back of the motherboard. That is a relief,:clap
I think Denise, that we leave the cpu, as is.
I believe this plate is like others that I have fitted, and is an extra brace.Although it might only be needed for motherboars that do not have the yellow fitting square, or, as an extra support,which really makes me think that it helps to stop damage to the motherboard when pressure is put on the heatsink, to fit, or, remove, or, if the computer is shifted from pillar to post.
As Shanemail said, it could also be to support the weight of the heatsink.Unless you still have startup problems, when the psu arrives, I would leave it be.:innocent

 

I attached a picture from the url that I posted that shows how the metal plate is to be attached to the yellow bracket prior to the installation of the heat sink/fan. The bracket in the picture is black.

The instructions were so poorly written that I was looking for a place on the motherboard for the metal plate when it actually is only attached to the motherboard when the screws for the bracket pass the plate and go into the motherboard. The plate, by itself, can't be attached to the motherboard. The bracket holds it in place. There was a little bag with 2 longer screws in the box with the motherboard also. I think that the best thing to do is to take it to a computer repair shop to have them remove the clasps that are too tight for me to remove. I can unscrew the bracket and remove the heat sink very carefully, remove the existing compound, add fresh compound and reattached the bracket with the metal plate under it.

 

And don't you guys worry . . . there are so many posts in the thread that it's easy to miss one. And if you've never seen a plate like this one, you couldn't have advised me any better than the directions. I think that they were written by an Asian who speaks some English and the translation is very poor. I had the plate in my hand and I tried all different ways to attach it to the motherboard, both on top and on the bottom, but it didn't fit anywhere. It reality, it doesn't fit anywhere on the motherboard . . . it only lays on top of the motherboard and is secured to it only when the bracket is attached to the motherboard.

 

Thanks, shanemail, for the idea of bringing the sign-in topic to the Lounge.

 

this is AMDs instructions for installing the CPU (including backplate)

http://www.amd.com/us-en/assets/content_type/white_papers_and_tech_docs/31684.pdf

the plate does look different to me from the picture you have supplied,
although they do mention it may not be the same rolleyes

think I will stick with Intel

 

Have any of you noticed the irony that this thread, after almost 700 posts, is back full circle?



E

 

Interesting...................... :eek

Guess we kinda got a bit sidetracked

672 posts, they grow up so fast; where does the time go ?

 

You come up with the greatest facts shanemail. You're a great researcher!

The AMD instructions for installing the CPU is one of them but there are no mounting holes near the socket on my motherboard, so maybe the metal plate was meant for a motherboard that has mouting holes. If the metal plate was placed under the motherboard, it would raise the motherboard about 1/4" to 1/2" up from the case and I wouldn't have been able to screw the motherboard to the case. The only way it could be used with my motherboard is the way it's shown in the picture that I attached to a post a few posts ago.

I think that I'll wait to do anything with the metal plate until I have the new PSU installed. If that doesn't do the trick, we'll (by "we" I mean you guys ) come up with something else, but I hope it's not expensive.

 

It hasn't escaped me . . . believe me!

I've had to uninstall and reinstall plugs and parts so often that the only difference is that I think that I can put this computer together again blindfolded now

 

The pictures on pages 19 and 20 of AMD's instructions for installing the CPU show the Spring Clip (page 19) and Cam Lever (page 20), Figures 15, 16, 17 and 18.

The Cam Lever needs to be raised first (pictures 14 and 15). This is the lever that I had said won't release. I pull up on it as far as it can go until it hits a stopper and it won't release from the frame. At one time, one it did release from the frame, I couldn't get the Spring Clips to release. As you can see in picture 16, they have to be pressed down about 1/4" until the metal opening widens. At that point, the Spring Clips has to be pulled away from the black, square knob. I can't press it down 1/100". It's stuck and won't budge. At this point, it's almost like everything melded together. Nothing will release or move at all.

Great info, shanemail. Thanks much *big smiles*

 

If you ever do take that heatsink off, I would consider replacing it with a better one (one that fits )

From what I've seen it may have only cost you $10.00 anyway

I have one from Arctic cooling (very easy instal / uninstal)
http://www.arctic-cooling.com/cpu1.php?p=3&disc=
they come with a 6 year warrantee

Zalman are perhaps considered to be the best in the world
http://www.zalmanusa.com/

Just a thought.

It may not be the heatsinks fault anyway, could have something to do with that plate.
baklogic mentioned the plate perhaps not being necessary for socket 939 - is the link you guys were talking about available ??

If you dont need to take the heatsink off - dont !

If you do, you may have to remove the motherboard from the case for easier access

:wave

 

Hello Denise
Removing or Installing a socket 939 HSF usually isnt that hard.
You should be able release the cam lever & tention spring/clip with one hand, after releasing the cam lever, while still holding the cam lever press down and angle the cam lever, this should release cam side of the clip. (this shouldnt require lot's of strength)

Many people dammage thier MOBO or CPU while replacing the HSF
Always be careful when using screw drivers & such ( you shouldnt require the use of a screw driver, nor any superman strength )

I always run a PC for few minutes (when ever possible) before removing the HSF ( running the PC will heat up the CPU & thermal material) after uncliping the HSF use slight twisting motion to release the HSF from the CPU.
It's very common when removing the HSF to actually pop the CPU from the ziff scocket without moving the lever that clamp's the CPU in the Ziff socket, some times this can dammage the CPU pins by bending or breaking them
So Be Careful

When a HSF is removed, Always clean off all the old thermal material then apply new ( I prefer Artic Ceramique Thermal paste, I always clean both HS & CPU with Isopropyl Alcohol 91% or higher)

 

Opinion

Why dont you use one?
___________________

Zalman does make some good one's
Butt
ThermalRight make some Great HS
XP-90, XP-120, SI-97a, SI-120, SI-128, Ultra 120, bla bla bla:wave

Many a HS, the difference is made via the choice of fan

 

Hi Asus

The clips were extremely hard to get on when I first put it together, and I had to use every ounce of strength in me to get them on, so if you say that putting them on shouldn't require a lot of strength, something isn't right. I basically forced them on but I thought they needed an extremely tight fit so that there wouldn't be any vibration.

I know you said to run the PC for few minutes before removing the HSF but I just tried this to see if it would release but it wouldn't budge so when I get the computer up and running again, I'd first like to see if removing the HSF is necessary. The problem might not be the metal frame that wasn't placed under the bracket, or the HSF (I like that abbreviation).

Right now, the PSU is the part that's in question. The new one should arrive by Tuesday at the very latest and if it gets the system up and running, I'd like to try to install the SATA card. After it's installed and I turn the system back on, prayers will go up to heaven that the computer doesn't die again. He's not really Damien . . . he's just not getting what he needs to survive, or getting programs and parts that aren't good for it.

Is there a possibility that the SATA card isn't compatible with another part of my computer other than the PSU? Is it possible that a SATA card requires too much from the motherboard? How will I know that this isn't the problem before I ruin the motherboard and other parts by installing the SATA card again? The PSU might be able to handle it but the mobo might not or othe CPU. I'm throwing these things up in the air because I know nothing about pc parts compatibility and I'm sure that you and others do.

 

Hey . . . guess what? I no longer have to sign in every 15 minutes or so! . . . :celebrate

 

Before I buy anymore parts, I have to fill my wallet with some greenbacks first. The SATA card and the new fan and PSU tapped me out for a while . . . in a few months maybe. But I'll save the links. . . thanks

 

shanemail, I had posted a link to a picture of how the metal plate should be installed. I didn't care that it was for a different motherboard/HSF/etc . . . I just wanted to show the way it needed to be installed on my motherboard, which was the way it was shown in the picture. baklogic said

So there is no link for the 939 installation.

 

thats why I phrased it like this
Zalman are perhaps considered to be the best in the world.

The zalmans I looked at came in around 700 grams
which In my opinion is a lot to have hanging off a mobo
too much for my liking.

So you're a fan of thermalright eh roflmao

 

Good idea,
I found the link
http://www.tt-itbu.com/product/Accessory/Accessory.htm

Hard to tell, but to me it looks like
It goes on the back of the mobo
It contains the threads for the 'front plate / adapter' to screw into
(the screws go straight through the motherboard and screw into the backplate)
I think that is its sole purpose ?

So, if your front plate / adapter fitted onto the mobo without the need for the backplate - everything should be fine.

Also, as I believe you mentioned previously
If the correct holes do not exist in the motherboard, it cant be fitted anyway.

 

You got your wish, met one of the owners of Major Geeks (CP)
and he came through for you :major

 

Hi shanemail,

That's the link that I gave baklogic but since it wasn't for the 939 socket, he said that it didn't apply. My point was that I knew it wasn't for the 939 socket but it's also the way it should have been installed for the 939 socket.

There is no way for the metal plate to go behind the motherboard. I tried it and it lifted the motherboard approximately 1/4" away from the case and I wasn't able to screw the motherboard into the case. By placing the metal plate on top of the motherboard, the bracket's screwholes and the motherboard's screwholes match the screwholes in the metal plate. The metal plate should sit on top of the motherboard with the screwholes lined up with the screwholes in the motherboard, and the bracket should be placed on top of the metal plate with its screwholes lined up to the metal plate and motherboard. The long screws would be used to secure both the bracket and metal plate to the motherboard at the same time.

The threads for the metal plate match the screwholes of the motherboard and bracket but the threads on the metal plate are to big to fit through the holes on the motherboard. In the picture, you can see that the bracket is on top of the metal plate with the threads of the metal plate facing downwards. The motherboard isn't between the metal plate and the bracket. The metal plate would lift the bracket off the motherboard approximately 1/4" of an inch. I know that it's hard for you to see this because you don't have it in front of you.

Also, my metal plate has a 1/8" wide metal strip that runs along the center of the middle square. That metal strip would separate the HSF from the CPU.

I could be completely wrong and if I can ever get the HSF off the CPU, I'll try to install the metal plate to see how it would fit.

 

Yes he did, shanemail . . . thank you very much! It's nice not to have to log in constantly :hyper

 

Ok, I got the official lowdown . . .

I've attached a picture of my backplate and the following was taken from

http://www.smartcomputing.com/edito...techsupport/107w10/107w10.asp&ArticleID=31000

I was wrong in my last post about the motherboard being located between the metal plate and the CPU, but the installation of the metal plate isn't feasible with my motherboard. The threads would not fit through the motherboard holes nor would it be possible to secure the motherboard to the case with the metal plate under it. It would lift the motherboard approximately 1/4" higher, making it impossible to screw the motherboard to the case.

The metal plate can be connected to my motherboard as shown in a picture in another post. Since the picture has already been posted, I couldn't attach another picture of it, but the address is

http://www.tt-itbu.com/product/Accessory/Accessory.htm

and look at the picture on the bottom of the page.

Speaking of screws . . . this is all very screwy! . . :foolish

 

Well found, again, Shanemail. You know, I hunted for a diagram,or pdf, like that and just could not find it.
THE WORDS ARE THERE, AND WHEN IT SAYS IF THERE IS A BRACKET , SKIP TO ITEM 10.
Yes, it it not needed. Do not pass go, as Studiot would say, do not collect £200,
Unless you are going to upgrade to a decent heatsink and fan, do not remove- Asus reminds you that it is not recommended to use screwdrivers (but many of us, who think we can be careful enough do)- but I think you should leave it be, unless you go to your local shop, as it is so hard for you to remove, you could damage the motherboard, , or, cpu.
AMD , in effect, in Shanemails link tells you - the plate is for some motherboards that come with just the holes in the board, and no yellow fixing, already in place.
Shame the last link came this late, but ,at least Denise, you can rest easy - .

 

When I removed my previous heatsink, I used a screwdriver.
I slipped (it really does happen ) and hit the mobo - I was very lucky - no damage.

The Heatsink I am using now still has metal retaining clips, but they are activated using 2 plastic/metal levers. This can still be a little bit tricky installing due to the lack of space (or coordination on my part ) but is a lot easier to remove

http://www.arctic-cooling.com/cpu2.php?idx=23&disc=
if you check out the link, you can see one of the levers on the right hand side of the pic
Must say it looks really dodgy in the pic, but works well

hopefully some of the other manufacturers have similar ideas these days.

 

Three cheers for shanemail !!!

Whew . . . now I can rest easy knowing that I don't have to install the metal plate one way or the other.

Let's see . . . what did I attach next so we can examine it? LOL

Thanks shanemail. You did it again.

 

The type of fitting Shanemail has is ideal, the Artic pro to fit amd, is quiet, but big- (I like them like that, as i use the Artic Freezer 7 Pro, but on intel boards, they have those 4 push and twist connections (mind you the artic ones do fix better)
If the cpu runs warmer than you would like, later (much later, please), then consider other coolers.
I am glad we have ended that one , on a good note ....The psu comes tommorrow ?.......................................

 

The one I posted is for a socket 478 (intel board)

I didnt realise that the 775 boards had such a strange retention mechanism
looks strange on the freezer 7 Pro picture anyway
http://www.arctic-cooling.com/cpu2.php?idx=79&disc=

The freezer 64 Pro (same as the freezer 7 Pro apart from the mount) is available for the AMD boards, it has a similar retention mechanism to the one I have (has the levers anyway)
http://www.arctic-cooling.com/cpu2.php?idx=80&disc=

If at a later date you do feel the need to upgrade heatsinks, read plenty of reviews online and you may save yourself a few dollars and issues.

Once Damien :eek is up and running again you will be able to see how your temps are going via Everest (Great program)
chances are the heatsink you have will keep your temps down for years to come :wave

 

For some strange reason, I feel like watching The Omen . . . LOL

Yes, I won't be buying anything new for the computer unless I have to for a while. Down the road, I'll think about upgrading parts. But since I don't do gaming, I think the need for large devices isn't necessary for my uses. I only come on the net to check my email, eBay and MajorGeeks, sometimes Microsoft to check for updates, and to some stores to buy things such as DVDs, programs, and other articles, and the only other things that I do with my computer is watch videos/DVDs and burn some disks. I might want to upgrade to a better video card in the future since I use my computer a lot to watch videos/DVDs, but the built-in one will do for a while. I have an LCD screen and sometimes things look 3D just with the built-in card.

I also have the case fan on order but I need to order another one for the front of the case but, again, I'm going to be giving myself and you guys a break before I do more.

The PSU should be in either today or tomorrow at the latest. I have a lot of chores that I need to do today that I've been putting off for the past week again, so I have to get on these things before I touch the PSU if it comes in today, because I know if I open the box, we won't have clean socks to wear tomorrow until I do some laundry, my checks will start bouncing until I get to the bank and make a deposit, we'll have to start using paper plates until I wash the dishes, and the list goes on . . .

In one of your posts a few days ago, baklogic, you mentioned 2 methods to try to see if the computer will start up. One of them I had tried prior to you mentioning it because it was recommended in the manual . . . removing the jumper to the other pins and moving it back 5 seconds later. It didn't work, but I still have to try the other method. I don't remember what it is right now so I'm going to be checking back through the posts to find it. But, either way, I'm going to install the new PSU because it's bigger and better than the OKIA. I'm just praying that my motherboard is okay and it didn't get burnt out somehow. If it did, I will take Fred's advice and get the sledgehammer out of the garage.

 

Denise, you have done exceptionally well, for first time build, and the second , and third, - sorry refits
You know now, that as long as you keep to the basic rools - static prevention, and read twice, three times, or, more, to make sure you understand something you have not seen before, and note all the advice that you get,--- you can do it. (blindfold , I seem to remember :dancer
Cross each bridge as you come to it, :boxing
Shanemail, those 775 boards come , it seems, mostly with the four holes, no bracket, and all the heatsink does is push the expanding pin fixture,.Hopeless for transporting.
The standard hs/fans are not the best to use.:crap
PSU.................................................

 

Denise, :guitar These were the tests I mentioned

 

This is the one that I still want to try with the OKIA PSU installed, just to see, out of curiosity.

Thanks for finding it for me

 

Ok, the banking is done, the laundry is done, the dishes are washed, the trash went out, vacuumed, walked the dog, watered the plants (the poor things were dehydrated), picked up my grandson from pre-k and I cooked and served dinner! When I have an incentive to move it, I move it! . . . the PSU came in today! :hyper

I first wanted to see if the OKIA PSU was really dead so I plugged in the power cord and pressed and held down the INSERT key while turning on the power. It didn't work. It was completely lifeless. . . not a blink of a light or the beginning of a hum of the fan.

So I'm going to remove the OKIA and install the Corsair 650w and see what happens. Dang! It weighs almost as much as a car battery!

I'll be back soon, on my new computer, I hope.

 

Usually the heavier the better for a PSU Denise. Sounds like you had a cr@py one in before. Hope you get Damian up and running soon. If you can get a design in vector format I can make you a case sticker for Damion... We have a vinyl cutter and a printer that can print on vinyl at work.

As many problems as you have had, I will be glad to do it for you for free, I just am not too creative myself. I usually deal with part numbers and a few crazy customers at work.

E

 

Well, it's bad news. I installed the PSU and plugged it into the motherboard and into the CPU port. I plugged the HSF into its port and all the system status plugs into their ports. I put in one stick of memory, plugged the cord into the PSU and into the wall outlet, pressed the button located in the rear of the case to 1, and pressed the On switch in the front of the case, but no go.

LED_5SB - lit up
LED_DIMM - lit up
LED_D1 - did not light up
LED_D2 - did not light up
PWRSW1 - did not light up
RSTSW2 - did not light up
Front panel light - lit up

The fan on the CPU didn't start nor did I hear any sound coming from the PSU.

I unplugged everything and reconnected the vital connections again.

CPU
Fan/heat sink combo
1 stick of RAM (a different stick in port 2 instead of port 1)
Power to the motherboard
The system status plugs

The manual says:

LED-DIMM indicates the voltage of memory is activated normally.
LED _5SB indicates the system is ready for Power-on.
*PWRSW1: This is an on-board Power Switch button (this one is not lit)
RSTSW2: This is an onboard Reset button (I have never seen this one light up)
*LED_D1: When off = VGA error
*LED_D2: When off = Memory error

*The on-board power switch isn't working, and I have a VGA error and Memory error. I had my monitor plugged into the computer before I turned it on.

I checked the wires to the power on/off button in the front of the case. I pressed the button several times but didn't see the wires change. I felt the wires and pressed them slightly forward toward the on/off switch and held them there as I pressed the on/off switch several times, moving the wires a bit each time, but nothing happened.