Is there a program to do for e-mail what Lazarus does for writing on browsers?

sorry conceptualclarity...it was late when I read your post, and I read it in the e-mail. Just misread it.

cc, I recommend looking into a custom build when it comes to the motherboard for a desktop even more than with a laptop. You can get a custom build for under $1000 easily if you compromise a little bit on the processor. With this angle, you can also get a good graphics card, too.

Before you buy, take a look at some of these deals. I like the ASUS motherboards the best, and some of these have MSI as the standard. I don't know about them, but you can upgrade to ASUS or Gigabyte using the configuration tool down in the auction:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/INTEL-G530-...0613388658?pt=Desktop_PCs&hash=item5d466b3172

http://www.ebay.com/itm/INTEL-CORE-...0950424191?pt=Desktop_PCs&hash=item565e5e467f

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AMD-FX-4130...0708990367?pt=Desktop_PCs&hash=item5af812119f

This is just a small snapshot of what you can get, and you can see how much money you can save. Honestly, in your shoes I would be looking for something in the $500-$600 range, and then I would add a second internal hard drive for easy backup. Might choose upgrade the power supply a little bit too. The middle link above has a configuration tool you can use to rig the PC any way you want it to be rigged. After all is said and done, right now a $600-$700 PC would be just right for me.

I think this one would be a good place to start. Again I would go with the ASUS motherboard, personally:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/INTEL-I5-35...0949906243?pt=Desktop_PCs&hash=item565e565f43

Think you'll get a far better machine if you get a build this way. Honestly, much better. I can't think of an OEM PC (HP, Dell, Gateway) that I would pay for right now. I've looked them over pretty good too...

 

conceptualclarity...

Attached a photo of what would be my choices in the selection menus of the second link in the previous post. This is if I were considering spending $1000 on a new PC. I would forego a monitor short term and then begin to save for a nice $250-300 one...

 

Thank you very, very much. I'm really interested in that second link. (Haven't had time to look at the others.) I can get i7-3770K (no. 43 overall rank at cpubenchmark.net), 16 GB RAM, and 2 TB hard drive for an amazing price.

There are overclocked processor options. What does that mean, and would that be desirable for a user on my level?

Would I be able to expand beyond my initial selected RAM?

I don't know much about motherboards. Can you give me some guidance on that and a link to a good article if you have one handy? If not I can probably find something. But advice to help me be discriminating between models would be helpful.

My monitor right now is a modest 15.6" deal. I'm sure I can be happy with a monitor under $150.

 

conceptualclarity...

No problem. Main thing is you get the machine that works best for you...

You don't need to overclock. This is a gamer's trick to squeeze more from a processor. Don't have to be a gamer to do this, but overclocking does always come with the extra cost of shortened parts life.

I think most people will tell you that for typical uses, even a normal run of the mill i5 processor is more than you will ever need to do anything a standard business class PC can do with the software that will ever be written for business. For this reason, you can scale back on the i7 to an i5 very easily.

I'll try to put this in perspective. I have a stock DC7700 with an E6400 core 2 duo processor that is "passmarked" at about 1250. I like to game a little bit and on the core 2 duo, with a very light graphics card, I can play QuakeLive online very nicely at about 30 frames per second. Now this PC setup won't run the most graphically intense games out there for sure. However, with the setup I show in the last picture, featuring a very solid i5, you would easily be able to play any game...at least on the lower settings. Seriously, if I can do anything on a core 2 duo that any business type employee would find him/her self ever doing, then obviously it's not going to be necessary to have a top tier i7.

Let's put it another way. If the passmark on your current P4 processor is about 600, the i5 I recommended is over 10 times as powerful and 6400+ on the passmark benchmark. Now the passmark on the i7 3770k, which is the 43 rd ranked processor you mentioned, benchmarks at around 9,500. For the record, it could be considered that the rank for this processor is a little understated, considering that many if not most of the chips rated ahead of the i7 3770k are Xeons for servers. There are some higher rated i7s, but only the i7 4770 and 4770k are the only two really in use by gamers. In other words, for normal uses, the i7 3770 is really ranked more like in the top 10 of all normal PC processors. Does anyone need this for typical business uses today or in the future or for use with light research? No, definitely not necessary. Nice? A little bit nice, but not a real true difference maker.

That's great for you, because you can save some money on the processor and go with a solid i5. Believe me, the i5 will blow your mind. Heck, my core 2 duo still blows my mind...

conceptualclarity...to begin your investigation into building a PC over buying an OEM one, go back to the 2nd listing below and then scroll all the way down almost to the bottom. When you change a menu, the price will automatically change so you can see how much it will cost.

The best advice is to take a look at the various motherboards in the listing in the motherboards dropdown. Google each one and then check the reviews. The reviews will be tremendously helpful. That will begin your step forward toward a purchase. However, I would be very confident in the setup in the picture I posted in my previous post.

That makes sense. See what you have left and then look to find a great deal on a monitor. Size I would say 20"-22" is ideal, but you can look later and maybe even go to an electronics store to look at the various screen sizes.

Overall, take it one step at a time. Do the research to pick the parts for your PC or pick your PC if you go OEM. Before you buy, just make sure you won't regret something like screen size is too small. On the processor, I think a solid i5 is just right for you (for me too Lord help me). Don't let me talk you into it, though. Get the i7 if your gut is telling you to.

On custom builds versus OEM PC...no comparison. You will get a much better PC from a custom build in the sense that it will be much more carefully and thoughtfully assembled (VERY important). Also, you will have a MUCH better case and much better resaleability. If AT ALL possible go with a custom build I would say...

 

You think it's better to distribute your hard drive space into two drives? It's a more expensive option. I'd like to hear the case for having two.

Logisys vs. Antec--what's the difference?

On one of these eBay custom computers, is the RAM size you choose final, or can it be upgraded?

What can you say about the reputation and reliability of these customizing companies operating on eBay? One person on another site advised me if I was going to go the customizing route to do it with the big companies. He said : "Also, beware of little companies that build computers for you. They can be ridiculously overpriced (or downright careless) when it comes to labor and parts. Service is usually above-average, but good service doesn't mean squat when you have to take your system in every month to get it running again." Of course, what you've shown me is certainly not overpriced.

I really appreciate you doing that configuration.

 

conceptualclarity...

This gives you the flexibility to create an updatable image of your main drive onto a backup drive. Whenever the main drive goes, just copy the image on the backup drive over to the main, and you are right where you left off. You can also add a 3rd hard drive and do something like this:

Drive 1
1. OS
2. Programs
Drive 2
1. Drive 1 image backup
2. Media files (pic/vid/music)
3. Saved office documents and research files
Drive 3
1. Backup of media files (pic/vid/music)
2. Backup of office documents and research files

You want to limit the amount of information you keep on your main hard drive. It will be by far the most worked of the drives, so much care should be placed on using it for storage in only the most minimum amount possible. Keeping your main drive free of your files is best if at all possible. You could also with drive 3 replace the drive with online storage or even backup those files again using online storage. This would be a very effective system.

I think the motherboard chosen there will support 16 GB of RAM, so yes you can upgrade. With the setup I used, I chose to go with 8 1 GB sticks of RAM, but you can change that in the ebay listing to 4 2 GB sticks, and the price is almost the same. That way you could just add 2 GB sticks to the 4 empty slots to upgrade. Don't think you'll need more than 8 GB, but I admit 16 would be nice no question...

Note that I added the option to add professional wiring and for the better thermal compound. That was so that the little extra sense of pride would be attached to the PC with the employees assembling the build for you. I think this is a smart idea.

The company is all over ebay. I think well over half the listings for new custom builds are theirs. They must be doing something right to be paying someone to place those listings, so I would trust this company. If you have problems with the PC, chances are humility and patience will get you what you want, especially from a successful endeavor such as this one.

I will say that Google can be your best friend here, so you might want to look over the ebay listing and find the company name. Then Google the company and comments on the company. I try to keep in mind that for the most part only complaints are posted, and I try to just make sure there aren't too many and that there are any serious signs of dangerous patterns with the customer service. That said, you will be getting good parts, that's for sure...

Don't know if this will help, but I will be buying from this outfit if and when I can get my hands on enough money...

 

Oh cc...

You may want to consider flip flopping the 1 TB with the 500 GB hard drive in the order form if you go with this PC. In other words, make the 500 GB hard drive your main drive that will contain Windows 7 and the 1 TB drive your back up. It will cost less to replace a 500 GB drive as a main drive, which will certainly go first, down the road, and also you will be using more space with the backup drive if you keep your backup image and your files there.

I am convinced that for Windows 7 noone really needs more than 250 GB if you are using the main drive just for the OS and programs. Heck, when the motherboard went on my main PC here, I had pared the main drive down to about 30 GB with Windows XP on there. I moved most of my files to a remote drive to accomplish this and kept only the programs I really use and need. This I started with a reinstall of the OS, and I was much happier after the reinstall was done and after I had a chance to use the PC for awhile. That kind of setup I am convinced can add many hours to the life of a main drive...

Also, the third drive you could make a USB portable type drive or an internal type normal drive. I think the case has space for 3 internal standard 3.5" hard drives. Some recommend adding a USB external enclosure if you are going to go this route to hopefully lessen the chance that a power surge could damage all of your drives at once. Pretty remote odds on that happening anyway, although it's possible. Good surge protector should take care of that concern (highly recommended)...

 

I am persuaded.

I have found I can get some fabulous deals on 23" monitors. But I read something that concerned me at http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/computer-monitors/buying-guide.htm.

I'm a writer, not a gamer. For me text is all-important. So when I get a higher resolution monitor the text appears smaller? I don't like that one bit. I wonder if a big screen would be a mistake.

The configuration seems to give only an option for two. You think that can be waived?

I got a strong recommendation from an advocate of RAID 0 that I break my 2TB up into four 500GB internal drives. After a good bit more research and posting of queries on computer forums I have come to the conclusion that RAID 0 is not for me, that it goes against the main duty of the hard drive, to keep data as secure and recoverable as possible. In view of that, do you see any reason for me to divide the drive space four ways instead of two?

I have a surge protector. It must be good because I have suffered no big disasters with my hard drive.

Oh, hearing that delights me! I want the best, or something very close to it!

This under-resourced computer has filled my life with aggravation and infuriated me times without number. All the fatal freezes, all the lost tabs and lost unsent e-mails because of them, all the times I've tried to scroll up and down the browser page and found it won't budge because the CPU is at 100%, the always waiting ten minutes after startup for my system to become usable, all the time spent seeing the hated hourglass on my screen instead of the arrow, all the sales I have missed out on because my computer failed me when I had been on track to place an order before the deadline hit, all the times my system sank into single-digit CPU usage and basically died, having to take the undesirable step of disabling Windows Update because the svchost attacks after startup wallop my system and leave it in that dead single-digit CPU usage state by the time I get them stopped, and the endless limitations, not being able to do many things I have wanted to do because I'm too impoverished for processing and memory, and on and on. It has taken a terrible toll on me. It has changed me for the worse. I used to be a very patient, slow-to-anger person who never swore. Dealing with this computer has changed me into an angry, impatient person given to moderate swearing.

I am as determined as I could be to get a system as far removed from my hated present system as possible. Keep in mind that I am not thinking only of the needs of the present. I am thinking 5 to 7 years down the road. I passionately desire not to find myself then in a situation like I find myself now. Therefore I am going for 16GB RAM at the outset and the previously mentioned i7. I know without that I could have a much cheaper computer, but after all I've been through, it's worth it to me.

I plan to add a number of realtime programs, especially security programs, that I have refrained from in my current setup. You have the optimization project with Process Lasso and other things. I have a fascination with the idea of pursuing a project of the ideal security setup. I have stored a huge amount of data about many different kinds of security programs on a Jarte file. It is something that will develop very cautiously and slowly.

I will be working on those configurations today and hope to be in contact with you again. Thank you so much for all of your help, AtlBo.

 

Hey cc...

No problem...glad to be of any assistance I can be...

Chances are you will be able to set multiple graphics setups using the driver software for your graphics card in your new PC. Don't know if you've had a graphics card, but you'll see what I mean once you get your PC with a graphics card inside. There will be software you can use to create multiple setups. This means you can change the resolution easily for various tasks if you really care to. If the software doesn't give you that capability, there are freewares out there. Just a matter of Googling to find one. Anyway, cross that bridge once you get there I would say.

1920x1080 seems to be the standard for normal widescreen monitors. It's the most common. Some things to look for...High refresh rate (i.e. 120 MHz) and a low response time (i.e. 5 MS). My current monitor is only 60 MHz. I get by with it, but I would obviously rather have a monitor that updates more quickly.

The safe route I think would be the best deal, based on reviews and cost, for a 1920x1080 monitor. I think $200 should get you a very good one. You won't need the 120 MHz, but the higher the better and you will need HDMI/DVI capability.

cc, you may want to create a separate installation to do this work. Actually, I would refrain from installing anything but the absolute bare essentials until you have one program installed...Oracle VirtualBox. Find a copy of a Windows OS, and install it into VirtualBox. Next install your security programs in VB as you wish. If something goes wrong you can just delete the VB installation without hurting your regular installation at all. This will help you keep your main installation clean.

Actually, now that I think about it, I would make Comodo Programs Manager the first installation on a new PC. It's a honest to goodness street sweeper, and it will record all your installations after it is installed. That's why I would make it first. I don't know how Revo works...just know CPM works.

I would count on imaging rather than raid. Wait until you get the PC, then you can begin to develop your backup strategy. It will take all your attention. To use RAID, I believe you need identical hard drives in type and in size for the RAID setup to work.

Don't be too upset. You're just learning your way around. The new computer will change everything for you. It will be a new challenge, too, though...Windows 7 I think will be a little bit of a challenge for you. It has some built in features that have to be found to be used. For example, you might like to index certain folders for speedy search. Windows 7 will give you that capability. Then again, you can always use "Everything" for searches. Anyway, there are alot of features in Windows 7 that must be found in freeware for Windows XP...

Anyway, you will be ready for the challenge.

Let me know how you are coming along with everything as you move forward. I'll try to help...

:-D

 

Well, for me my computer experience is overwhelmingly about reading and writing. Images are not terribly important to me. I do play a lot of videos, but generally to listen to them rather than watch them, as I eat in the next room. Having image resolution rivaling a contemporary TV set is not something I care about. What I care about is that reading of text is easy on my eyes.

I like the idea of a bigger screen because I assume I would get to see more of my browser and I would never again have to scroll back and forth along the bottom of the page in order to read text. I have found stunning deals on 23" name-brand monitors, and I'm on the verge of buying. But I'm really wondering now if that's a mistake. If I can configure as you mentioned, my default would be a setup that favors reading of text optimally.

Is there any possibility I would really be better off buying one of those smaller cheaper monitors?

 

cc...

I have a 22" HP, and it's just right for me. I wouldn't exchange it for anything larger and definitely not smaller. As for text size, you can set the text any size you like using Windows or the graphics settings. With Windows, you can use the large type setting to achieve it, etc. As for the desktop, you can select large icons if you like, too, using Windows.

On the browser...that's one of the main reasons to get a 22-23" monitor I would say. It's great for graphics and for videos and so on too. If you go this route, you'll see...the text will be fine once you get it set up...

I will only say this about 22". It's alot of real estate to cover with the mouse. The mouse settings will make it possible for you to set how far the mouse cursor travels as you move the mouse, however...

 

Thanks for that information.

Back to my question, do you see any reason for me to divide the hard drive space four ways instead of two?

Yes, it will. But I have bought two books on Windows 7, both the size of the old Sears catalog, to consult as needed.

I have paid a lot of attention to your configuration screenshot. I am going to ignore the coolers you ignored and get the coolers you got. If you think that I should do differently from any of the screenshot's configurations for yourself, please specify.

I'm going to go through them now.

You upgraded beyond their default processor cooling fan. It seemed pretty impressive to me from what I read. They said it's for CPUs up to 5GHz. I'd rather save the $49, but If there's a compelling reason to upgrade, I'm all ears.

I think I'm going to go with the same motherboard as you. But I put in a question to the company as to whether it was limited to a 16GB ceiling like their default motherboard.

On the the RAM, I'm going with 16GB for starters. Somebody suggested that on RAM, it's better not to get one stick but to break it up as much as possible. So do you think 4X4GB is the best way to do it?

Some of the RAM choices on the menu say "HIGH PERFORMANCE". Do you know anything about that? Is it worth paying $4 extra for?

Why did you choose to move up past the default DVD burner? I've never done DVD burning myself, so I'm inclined to go with default here. Of course, it would be good to learn it.

By graphics card, you mean video card, right? Given all I've told you about my habits, do you think I need more than the default on the video card? I notice that the default doesn't seem to have DDR3, which the pgrades have. Maybe that's significant. On my part, I have no idea what it means until it's explained to me.

Any reason why you chose the 2X Okia rather than the 1X Okia on the case cooling fan?

On the power supply, a computer savvy urged on me the idea that this is a really important spec, and I'm inclined to go beyond your 500Watt. That leaves me to choose among Thermaltake, Seasonic, Corsair, and Antec. I've seen really bad reports on corsair in this matter. One forum resondentsaid forget about Thermaltake. Seasonic seems to get a lot of praise as superior. Any comment about the brands? I thinking I'm looking at 520 or 620 Watt Seasonic.

Being concerned that sometimes videos aren't loud enough to hear a few feet away in the next room, should I be looking at going beyond default on speakers?

I can get Windows 7 cheaper on eBay.

Thanks again.

 

cc...

The current PC I have was set up for RAID (not sure which type) with 2 internal hard drives. The idea was to create a running copy of the contents of the main drive onto the backup, so that if/when it goes, just pop in the backup. I chose to go with traditional backups instead. No, you don't need to break up the hard drive space for your backups. At any rate, all you need to decide is whether you are going to run RAID or not...the rest you can wait and cross the bridge when you get to it. You need to have identically sized and type drives to run RAID...

Motherboard specs:

https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/P8B75V/#specifications

32 GB max. On the high performance, if you want the little extra spark, go for it. Yes, I like to spread out the RAM too. The advantage of having the larger sticks comes in if you plan to upgrade. If you use all the slots with 4 GB sticks, then you will have to replace them all when you upgrade, while if you use 2 x 8 GB, you can just add two. 16 GB is alot, but, if you are really serious about 32, then the 2 x 8 GB plan might be better for you. I think most of the gamers get by with 16 GB total RAM, so you may just want to consider that...

If I were buying one of these now, the screenshot would have been my specs, including the CPU heat sink/fan combo (one exception see below). I put a real emphasis on a cool PC, which is premium as you move into the i series processors. I mean you're spending alot on the processor, so the extra is worth the price for a cool running PC. It will run better and last longer. The only spec I would change would be I would have 2 500 GB hard drives. I don't need a TB, but if I did, I would make the 1 TB the backup drive, not the main drive. Honestly, I would prefer just to have a 250 GB main drive, then a 1 TB backup drive to keep backups and media and office type files and then a 3rd small drive to backup the media and office files. I already have a 120 GB USB portable one, so I would use that for that media and office files backup.

I was just going with the name brand there. I think it was $12? Anyway, the price seemed worth the $ to me.

Yes, video card. I have used a PC with a video card and PCs without one and hands down adding PCI-e 16x video card is the way to go. You could, however, opt to go without one and then buy one from a different source if you decide to get one. The MSI HD6570 got high marks on Amazon and it benchmarks really high for a HD6xxx series card. Also, it is a low power card. A lot of bang for your dollars and for the power requirements. I would at all costs keep the HD6570 in my a build for myself here. Really great kicking around/work card and light years better than onboard graphics.

A little bit of extra case cooling. I love these coolers. They have the tunnel/funnel that reaches down into the case for the warmest air. I would go with 2 at that price, considering someone else will be installing them.

I'm waiting on a old used i3 processor based PC I bought on ebay for $70 that has a Seasonic. It's only 300 watts, but I did some reading and Seasonic really seems to have the respect of the gamers. Actually, I read somewhere that they make at least some (or used to perhaps) of the Corsairs and I think Thermaltakes if I am not mistaken. I was super impressed by the respect Seasonic gets. As for the wattage...if you can pull together the money go for the 620w Seasonic. Very nice choice. I do think you'd do fine with 500w since you aren't gaming, but the 620w supply won't have to work quite as hard.

Here is what I have:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Logitech-AudioHub-Premium-Laptop-Notebook-Computer-Speaker-Multi-USB-Hub-220V-/221304318337?pt=US_Computer_Speakers&hash=item3386c3e981

It so rocks with the boom bass and all. To give you an idea of how prices work, I got this for $50 delivered a couple of years ago. It actually debuted for $29.99. Anyway, an ultra cool speaker bar like this in the $50 range will add a ton to your PC experience. Absolutely, yes I recommend better speakers. The speakers you will be looking for will be AC power (they plug into the wall and the PC (USB))...not powered by the PC like the free ones that come with the PC. I was just thinking there is no harm in taking the free ones, which you could use while you research what to get and what you should spend and all...

You will need 64 bit Windows to be able to use all of the RAM you are looking into getting. If you get 32 bit, it will only use 4 GB, just like 32 bit Windows XP.

I would make sure it's Windows 7 64 bit Professional. The home versions will not have all the features you will find in 7 Pro. Same situation as with XP Home vs. XP Pro. The Home versions are abysmal in my opinion...

 

I took some time to read the whole ad by allpczone. Do you trust them when they say they refuse ever to use shoddy parts? Or did you see any turkeys in their offerings?

Some of the RAM choices on the menu say "HIGH PERFORMANCE". Do you know anything about that? Is it worth paying $4 extra for?

Oh, yes, I'm going 64 bit all the way, leaving the shackles of 32 bit behind. And I have planning to get Windows 7 Pro.

 

cc...

Yes, get the high performance RAM if you like. I can't say how much better it will be (just don't know), but for that little bit of money you can't go wrong.

allpczone has ebay feedback of over 10,000 with 100% feedback. Can you imagine that selling PCs of all things? You can trust this seller 100% I would say. I could see the seller's experience building PCs in the parts selection choices. Good choices...

100% feedback on over 10,000 ebay sales of PCs? That's the kind of company I want to buy from...

Good :celebrate

 

I am working on the configuration to submit right now. If I later decide to partition my two hard drives, does that equal any possible benefits from having 4 hard drives (leaving aside the RAID issue)?

I am looking at some good cheap monitors, but doubtful of them because they seem to be permanently affixed in a backward-leaning position. Have any familiarity with that?

 

cc...

Technically yes. However, if/when a sector goes bad on a partitioned drive, you are going to want to replace the drive. The drive being partitioned, it will be akin to replacing 2 hard drives.

Personally, I would stick with a smaller type main drive which is not divided. Remember, the less info on your main drive, the less the drive has to work to find things and, therefore, the better it will perform. With only an OS and your programs on the main, the drive will last significantly longer. Again, most importantly, it will perform better.

Take a cue from the gamers and their SSDs. They are running Windows on a small SSD. This they can back up easily and then, therefore, also restore easily to a new drive when the original fails...

Don't worry about partitioning. It's fine for a backup drive, but it's honestly not a good idea for a main drive. All in all partitions are alot to keep up with and really not worth the hassle in my opinion.

This is best I would say...no partitioning here:

Drive 1: Main drive
1. OS
2. Programs
3. Your most important media files (audio, video, and pictures)
4. Your most important work files
Drive 2: Backup drive
1. Up to date daily or synced backup image of drive 1
2. Monthly backup 1 *see explanation below this list
3. Monthly backup 2
4. Monthly backup 3
5. Monthly backup 4
6. Other media files (audio, video, pictures)
7. Other office and work related files
Drive 3: Backup drive (Cloud or external)
1. Backup of other media files
2. Backup of other work related files

The idea here is to keep 4 weekly backups. Create 4 monthly backups (backup runs every 4 weeks) but stagger them all by a week from the previous one. This would give you 4 unique backups over a month long period. Then you could have an up to date image for quickly retrieving damaged files, etc.

cc, what is cheap? I have an HP one of this style, and it's ok, but I wouldn't recommend the affixed position. What exactly do you have in mind price-wise?

 

Thanks for the advice on hard drives.

I have been looking in the $99 to $109 range. I believe I am going to settle on this Dell. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-24-LED-HD-Monitor-Black-/200998361076

It clearly is not tilted back like the less expensive ones I have been looking at. But I will look some more.

 

http://accessories.us.dell.com/sna/productdetail.aspx?c=us&cs=04&l=en&sku=320-9776
It has a three year warranty. Sells for more than double this $109.99 price on Dell's site.

Stellar customer reviews
http://www.amazon.com/Dell-Series-E2414H-24-Inch-Monitor/product-reviews/B00DM65EH8

 

cc...

OK, that's a 60 Hz monitor like the 22" HP one I have. I paid about the exact same price for the HP. I do notice that the specs on the Dell page do say the tilt is adjustable, so that's good. Also, It does for sure accomodate DVI and HDMI. This is important these days and makes for a much better picture.

Here are the Amazon reviews:

http://www.amazon.com/Dell-Computer...?ie=UTF8&qid=1386192108&sr=8-1&keywords=2414h

Just going by the stars from the reviews, it's over 4 stars. Looks like you have found a good value here. My only problem is that it looks like the sale is over. At the top of the page it says the

Maybe you can search out another one on ebay someplace for that price.

Have you put in your order for the PC yet?

 

cc...

Here is a Samsung up for auction on ebay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-S24C310HL-23-6-Widescreen-LED-Monitor-/251394938947?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3a884e5843

It has the identical specs, but I can't tell if it tilts. I think it does as I found a picture of it tilting upward, just not sure because I couldn't find it actually listed as feature anywhere. This one gets all 5 star reviews on 5 reviews at Amazon, so you could e-mail the seller of the ebay item in the link to see if it tilts...

I took a look around for the Dell you found, and the cheapest I saw it was $139.99 postage paid...

 

AtlBo, the Samsung says "Tilt Adjustable" at the bottom of the Specs list. Forward 5 Degree,, Backward 15 Degree.

 

Hey Claw...

On behalf of conceptualclarity, thanks for the info amigo...

 

Hi.

Why would anybody want a computer that tilts backward?

I was able to get the Dell, but with a complication. I had found a bunch of monitor candidates with Black Friday markdowns. I noticed they were beginning to disappear one by one. I should have moved quicker. I was researching the various candidates. I found the Dell BestBuy special on eBay gone. Then I hurriedly ordered a similar-looking Insignia from BestBuy on eBay for the same price. Then I remembered I had gotten an e-mail from BestBuy's own website urging me to finish a Dell purchase (same item) I had dropped because I ran into difficulty trying to complete the purchase. I felt a Dell with a 3-year warranty would be better than an Insignia with a 1-year warranty. So I went back to my cart, and I was able to complete the purchase. I will have to drive to a city more than an hour away to pick it up. I was unhappy to get hit with sales tax for the first time on the Internet. Thank God it didn't happen with my computer.

Then I contacted BestBuy's eBay portal and told them I wanted to cancel the Insignia order before they shipped it. I am surprised that I have heard nothing more on the matter in over 24 hours.

I have attached the configuration of my new computer. Gene from AllPcZone called me soon after my order and led me in some alterations. He told me the video card I had ordered wasn't too great and the one that's already with the motherboard was better anyway, so I didn't need it. So that was omitted. I had chosen a Logitech mouse over the default iMicro since I have a Logitech and know it's pretty good. He urged me to upgrade to Logitech for a little extra on the keyboard as well. He said Logitech is better and you don't want your keyboard to go out on you after a year or so. I agreed to. But it seemed to me after the call that it contradicted their professed confidence in all the parts they use.

It came to just over $1,100. That hurts, but it is my dream computer. I'm confident of the high quality of the configuration. I'm glad you brought them to my attention, AtlBo.

Just got an e-mail from BestBuy. I can return it to the store when I go to pick up my Dell monitor.

I was using Firefox yesterday while buying the computer and the monitor. I had it up to 50 tabs or so. I brought it down to about a dozen or so. Then it started crashing on me. It has no more tabs left except the Restore Session tab. I disabled almost all the extensions and plug-ins. But it still crashes on me every time I bring it up. Pale Moon was behaving the same way the last time I used it. They shouldn't behave this way on my new system, should they?

 

cc...

Happy for you. Don't worry about spending the money, it will be well worth the price.

I think of it this way. When I bought my first PC, it had roughly I estimate 1/1,000,000 of the overall usefulness of a new PC today. I spent $1,000 for it and then another $1,000 for my second one a couple of years later. I just cannot understand how PCs can be priced like they are, but you are getting a good one, that's for sure.

By the way, don't worry about browser tabs anymore. You'll be able to comfortably work with a large number of them. Just a note of advice here...I was serious when I said install VirtualBox and learn to use it before you start installing other programs. You can install a full OS there and then experiment in a 100% safe environment. Viruses you get in a VBox installation don't affect your main drive. At the worst, you will have to delete the VBox installation and start over. I recommend seeing if you can find an old XP Pro disk and just install it. Even if it's 32 bit, you can still install in VBox installed in your 64 bit Windows 7 no problem. This is a great way to experiment with software. One other note...I think you will get 3 installations (3 different PCs) with your OS disk. If you have to change out the motherboard on a PC you have an installation on, you might be able to call MS and arrange for the reinstall to not count against your allowance, but, usually, if you have to reinstall on a PC, as long as you have the same motherboard, it won't count against you. Just not sure in the case of the motherboard. Don't think I would use one of my installation of a VBox install.

I understand what the dealer was saying about the graphics. The graphics on your motherboard will be good. However, it's a part on your motherboard that can't be replaced. If it goes, you have to get a new motherboard or a new processor if it's in your processor. I have a card now that Passmarks (benchmarks) at about 177. The one I was recommending is low power (nice on motherboards), and it benchmarks at over 600. It's not great by any means, but it would be enough for me. The clincher is the fact that it is a wear friendly option when it comes to the motherboard, while being still a solid choice even for light-medium light gaming...great with video. Definitely no harm in saying no for the short term to a video card, as you can always add one later if you like and for around $50 or so. It's just a buffer against motherboard failure for me on a work PC.

You will really be happy with the PC cc. Honestly, today's PCs like the one you are getting are easily worth $5,000 in my mind. Seriously, in 1995, people were dropping $3,000, $4,000, even $10,000 for what is today absolutely nothing whatsoever. If you had been into PCs at the time, you'd understand what I mean. Basically, they were glorified Nintendo 16 bit machines with a business twist on them I guess I would say...

Let me know if you need any help getting started. Just some caution against installing alot of programs on there. For me, I would try them in VBox and then install the one I like (maybe two if necessary)...

 

Thanks.

I am finding huge variation in prices for Windows 7 Pro on eBay. What do I need to make sure I'm getting everything I need? I know that a reinstallation disk is not what I'm looking for.

 

Looks like a very good deal at http://www.ebay.com/itm/Microsoft-W...perating_Systems_Software&hash=item1c39c99e7f

 

conceptualclarity...

I think what you want to do is go here:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/Operating-Systems-/11226/i.html?_dmpt=US_Operating_Systems_Software

Type in the search bar "Windows 7 Professional Retail 64 bit".

This version you linked looks like it might be a one time installation disk. Not sure, but you may want to ask if the disk can be reused to reinstall Windows if your hard drive goes out and so on. Of course, for sure you don't want OEM.

Yes, the retail disks are the most expensive, but, if you have the disk, you don't have to pay every time your hard drive fails, etc. Make sure the disk is new and and the packaging unopened...

 

Thanks.

My search was that except no "Retail."

Could you explain?

I sent him an e-mail on eBay :

He answered "Yes!"

So I went ahead and got it last night for $59.99, free S+H. It was going fast. The item is up $10 this afternoon. I hope I didn't make a mistake.

 

Sorry for butting in cc but even if you install with an OEM disk you can simply use an imaging program to keep various snapshots of your system, any of which you would be able to revert to at any time. If money is a consideration an OEM disk is the cheapest and is a perfectly viable option.

 

No problem, Earthling.

OK, what is an OEM disk?

I'm e-mailing the vendor to find out if that's what I bought is.

 

An OEM disk (I believe they call them System Builder now) is a full version of Windows that once installed can never be installed to a different machine. OEM disks are usually pre-activated so you don't need to provide a product key during installation. A retail disk can be installed to any suitable machine but you do have to provide a valid key. I'm not too clear why AltBo is saying you definitely wouldn't want OEM.

 

Hello Earthling...

EDIT...apologies for question 1 below, Earthling...missed your post going up...

Quick questions. With an OEM disk (or otherwise system builder) disk, am I limited to installing on the one machine? Also, if question one is yes, then, if the motherboard goes, would the OEM disk work to reinstall on a new motherboard? I understand your point about images, but I like personally having the disk. "Of course you don't want OEM" was I guess too strong. I was thinking in terms of later would conceptualclarity potentially run into problems if or when his motherboard goes. I was thinking like myself in that I would just buy the retail version and have 3 separate PC installations in hand or whatever. Not being sure if I could reinstall on a new motherboard without losing an install, I would just rather have the free installs in hand. I can see by the prices, cc is definitely much better off with the copy of 7 he purchased for now with its low cost...

Thinking of your situation again, cc, if you can reinstall using the OEM disk (images should cover you there anyway), that will I guess give you all the guarantees you could want for this one PC when it comes to the OS...

Earthling is right about imaging. The images will make it easy for you to get back in business if/when you have trouble with a drive, etc...

 

The vendor told me it is OEM.

I would have tended to assume that when I buy a Windows 7 disk that it's only going to be good for one machine, Microsoft being Microsoft.

I am pretty happy to save $80 from the charge for having the computer builder install it.

I have e-mailed the vendor :

 

Whatever the vendor may say the answer is no. New motherboard will mean new OS. You would be able to reinstall to the same machine if you just wanted to start over but not absolutely sure if you could if you had to buy a new hard disk.. Maybe someone else can clarify that.

 

Hey guys, I'm not sure this will really help but, I bought a Dell Windows XP Pro SP3 OEM disk off of ebay just to try and repair my sons' Dell desktop PC running XP Pro SP3, and of course it activated without the product key and it installed a FULL install of XP Pro SP3. Well my sisters' HP running the same thing needed a fresh install and I used the same Dell XP Pro SP3 OEM disk on her HP and it gave a FULL install and ACTIVATED with the product key on the sticker on the side of her HP pc. The pc needs to be running the same OS as the disk. Your existing product key will work if it matches the OS on the OEM. An XP Home product key WILL NOT activate a XP PRO.

 

cc...

Keep us updated and let us know when you get your PC.

Just a suggestion. You will have large drives to manage. Might be a good idea to open up Notepad and start to make a list of programs you will install. Put them in order. For example, I would install an uninstaller even before A-V or other security. That's because I use Comodo Programs Manager which records installations so it can effectively undo them, and I would like to be able to remove the A-V using Comodo if the need arises.

I would stay minimalistic on program installations. Again you can experiment and play in a nice sandbox type environment like VirtualBox or one of the others like it...

 

I asked the buyer :

His response:

My current computer is about ten years old. I think it was average at the time it was bought. I think this computer I'm getting is probably equal to or better than 99.5% of new computers. So I'm hopeful that it may well be a decent computer even as much as ten years from now. I expect that during that time the price of SSDs will come way down and I'll be able to put a big one in the computer.

I've gotten the Windows 7 Pro, and the computer is on its way. But I anticipate it may be weeks before I complete the transition to the new computer, as much as I hate my current one. I have a lot of things I need to catch up on, including Christmas cards and gifts and e-mails. I have never done a transition before, so rather than rushing it, I'm going to be very deliberate and carefully read everything pertinent I have available before doing things.

Tomorrow I drive to a BestBuy to get my Dell monitor. The last item I am looking to acquire at this point in time is an uninterruptible power supply / "battery backup". I liked the looks of a CyberPower UPS I saw in my local Office Depot. It has 625 VA, 375 watts, 3-year warranty, and comes with power monitoring software. If anybody has advice about UPS models it would be welcome.

 

conceptualclarity...

Hadn't had a chance to mention much about it, but I got my new (used) i3 PC. It's great with 8 GB. I got a couple of hard drives to put in it, and I have got it up and running.

The reason I bring it up is that I found a good imaging program called Paragon Backup and Recovery 2013 Free. I looked at Macrium Reflect, but it doesn't create differential backups. Basically, with differential backups, you start with a backup of your initial system and then you create differential backups for each day of the week. The advantage is that you can create the initial backup, which may be 15 GB for a 25 GB hard drive, but then the incrementals are only like 5 GB. Paragon is fast too. I think I backed up 28 GB in about 15 minutes. Also, Paragon has a burning utility for burning a rescue disk so that you can install any of your saved images when you boot the PC.

Just some food for thought, but I think I would like to be settled on an uninstaller, anti-virus, and on backup. For me, I would feel alot more comfortable learning my way around Windows 7 knowing those things are in place. Anyway, this is just based on my experiences with new PCs, and I hope it helps somehow a little bit...

Oh...one question. Did the builder of your PC mention if you will be getting a drivers disk for Windows 7? I assume not, but I think there is a good chance you will still be able to get the drivers from them after you hook up the PC. Otherwise, you will have to hunt them down from the parts manufacturers. Shouldn't be hard for Windows 7 Pro to find the ones you will need...

Keep us informed. Looking forward to hearing how the first test run goes...

:-D

 

There was no mention of that.

I have so much on my plate I really don't know when I will be able to get around to assembling my new computer.

Am I realistic to hope or expect this computer will still be a good one ten years from now?

 

Hey cc...

I'll try to answer this one first. Intel is coming out with new processors this year. Ultimately, with the new technique of production, looks like they will eventually be producing 5 nm processors. Current i series processors are 22 nm. This is a reference to the diameter of the wires on the processor itself. Smaller is better, because the wires take up less room, and the circuits are closer to each other->faster processing. The 5 nm chips are probably a while away with the first of the new ones scheduled to be 14 nm.

In a nutshell a 5 nm chip will on paper give a user 20.5 times (4.5 x 4.5) the processing power of current processors. Probably won't be that much as they'll probably add some things to the chip like turbo features or whatever that will use some of the space. However, this technology will be on graphics cards and motherboards in some form or another too, so the PCs will be sick fast.

Anyway, your new computer will still be good in 10 years, yes...very good. Content won't change enough to overpower your PC by any means. You may have to replace some parts along the way due to wear, etc., but the setup is made for that basically. It shouldn't be hard for you to find parts and apply the fixes yourself. Also, you will be able to add a very nice graphics card down the road too if you need to for any reason. Even if you don't it will still be a nice computer. Also, you would be looking at I estimate $5,000+ to build one of the new PCs that are coming. Based on what you have said about your usage of a PC, I would say you got in at just the right time honestly.

How much assembling is there to do? You paid for the professional assembly I believe or if I recall correctly? Shouldn't be any more difficult than unbox, plug in, and start I should think.

Don't know how much experience you have working with parts in a PC. Just because it's on my mind, some things to remember about working inside the PC, cc...
1. Before you take off the door to add a hard drive or anything else, ALWAYS unplug the PC...ALWAYS
2. Before you touch anything inside the PC make sure you touch a metal portion of the case when working on the PC. This will disperse any static electricity your body could discharge and which can damage computer components.
3. When handling parts, try to avoid touching circuitry as much as possible. Just want to make sure not to damage circuitry.
4. When handling parts, don't force them into a slot and don't force plugs. You may have to push hard for a part to seat correctly, but make it a gradual increase of pressure until the part is seated.
5. When handling parts, don't try to yank parts apart or out of a socket. The power supply wires that attach to the motherboard, for example, usually have a flange that you will need to depress to remove the wire. If it's not depressed, no amount of pulling will loosen the connection and eventually the motherboard connector would pull off the motherboard (or the wire would break). Very difficult to break the connectors on motherboards, but it is possible.

I am looking forward to seeing how you like the new PC. Once you take it for its first test run, I think you will see that what you have is very good and will last you a long time...

Don't worry about drivers. Windows 7 will have drivers that will get you by until you can find the ones meant for you PC parts. The manufacturer's drivers will be better, since they are specifically written for your parts with all their unique features...

 

Thank you. I'm glad to hear that. I'm still using a ten-year old Dell with great difficulty. But I think it was an average computer at its release, not an outstanding computer like the one I've bought.

Will I be able to get a new motherboard and put a processor like that on my computer when they come online? And what about the superior new forms of RAM that will be coming out? http://www.pcadvisor.co.uk/news/pc-...ze-your-pc/?cmpid=HTML-N060114&olo=newsletter

The full extent of it is opening the case and replacing 500GB RAM with 2GB RAM about five years ago(?) under the direction of Dell Support. I've felt I should not fool around with what I know nothing about.

Thanks for those useful instructions.

 

The short is that yes I'm sure there will be options for upgrading to a new motherboard with your case. The MRAM/RRAM technologies bring to mind some things that will likely be available to you too...that is that I am sure there will be PCIe cards and the like that don't even exist presently. Maybe you will be able to hook up some sort of MRAM or RRAM or the like part via a sata hard drive cable internally that fits in a drive bay and improves performance. There will be more options like this for you with this PC than there was with previous PC technologies (like your Pentium 4). You won't need these types of things though. The content on the internet is not going to change much by and large at all, and what you have will cut through it. It will comfortably run anything office software will ever be able to throw at it too. Keep in mind maybe purchasing a graphics card down the road somewhere, though. You will have plenty of power to power a really good one, and it will make the PC better. To prove it to yourself, you could pick up a really well cared for used NVIDIA GT 640 or 650 if/when you start to consider one to see the difference for yourself. Prices for these will really go down eventually for new ones of this type. Just something to keep an eye on.

I think the best thing you can do is turn on the PC and use it as soon as possible. It's normal to be nervous after a big purchase, but you have good parts in the new PC. You'll see...just power it up. Don't worry about it...you got a great deal.

The main thing is to remember to UNPLUG the machine and then to touch first a metal surface inside the PC before touching other parts. I was very uncomfortable at first with this, but I quickly realized A) It's only a thing, and parts can be replaced B) With proper precautions, working on a PC is not dangerous to people or parts at all...

Hey cc...maybe you can do an introduction to your PC video using a good screen recording program like cam studio, etc. and put it up on YouTube...:-D

 

What sort of video do you have in mind?

I do take a lot of notes on what I experience with my computer with a view to posting about it somewhere on the Internet, maybe just a blog of my own which I plan to start at some point.

My computer was on the blink during much of the time between Christmas and the day after New Year's. It came about after I had a bunch of power button shutdowns. After a power button shutdown I always go into Safe Mode. Normally the startup after a power button shutdown is very, very ugly. Going into Safe Mode at that point before trying a normal startup seems to soothe the system. But on the Saturday after Christmas I kept having fatal freezes even so, and all those power button shutdowns seemed to damage the system. So it fell into a rut in which the Safe Mode, Safe Mode with Networking, etc. menu would come up, and no matter what I clicked on, the Windows and Dell screens would show themselves, but then instead of launching normally, it would just revert back to that menu page, round and round in circles. Fortunately for me, the independent one-man computer shop fixed it up for me fpr $56. Office Depot wanted $150 just to do the diagnosis phase and God only knows how much more on top of that.

When I got the computer back I was very upset because I was getting clobbered with extremely prolonged 100% CPU on startup, making the system useless. When I could finally open Task Manager I saw that svchost.exe was the culprit. I killed it as I had many times before without any evident harm. This wasn't supposed to happen, because I had gone to the Control Panel and disabled Windows Update, and I was constantly reminded of that by the cranky Windows Security Center icon in the tray at startup. Then I saw that in the Services menu, Automatic Updates was started. I disabled it by right-clicking on Properties, and I believe I have gotten rid of the svchost attacks. They may have been a big part of the problem that prior Saturday. So I learned something, that to ensure I don't get clobbered by svchost.exe I have to disable Windows Update in every place. I don't think I was even mindful of it being in the Services roster.

I intend to catch up on the Microsoft security updates soon with the help of a program called Microsoft Baseline Security Analyzer at http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/security/cc184924.aspx.

The program HD Sentinel formerly always told me I had 100% Health for my hard drive. After this bad episode it tells me 98% (still Excellent) and says :

The log says:

HD Sentinel tells me my hard drive Performance is 90%, also Excellent. I think that reading is about the same as before.

The temperature of my hard drive got noticeably lower at the ouitset of October, even before the weather really changed. It's been good, always well under 40 degrees C. Right now in this big chill it's 28 degrees according to HD Sentinel.

The readings are a little different on Ashampoo HDD Control. I've enclosed screenshots of the interface and of the Ashampoo HDD Control report on my hard drive and flash drive.

I have had some concern about heat. Before the winter the back of my modem would feel distinctly warm. An adapter that is wired to the modem has typically felt downright hot. Because of that I have taken up the practice of giving it a rest by unplugging the computer at the end of the day after closing down Windows.

I also enclosed the HWiNFO Sensor report. The bottom line in the second group says no thermal throttling for the CPU. I always get a "OK" for the ThermMon reading on the CPU. I assume that means temperature. In the third group we see No for Drive Failure, but the line below that says Yes for Drive Warning.

I saw there is an option at Control Panel > Advanced > Power Buttons that says "When I press the power button on my computer:" for "Stand by" or "Hibernate" rather than "Shut down." I was thinking this could be part of the resolution I need, at least to stop having these harmful power button shutdowns. I think I've only used Stand by once and Hibernate never. Of course there is still the problem that a frozen system has simply got to be shut down to refresh, and maybe those options just prolong the reckoning without making it any easier. I would like your thoughts on this.

 

cc...

Your readings sound good. They are just something to keep an eye on I would say, but they aren't a substitute for backup obviously. The mechanical parts on a drive (rocker arm/infrared reader) can also break causing failure...wear on the disk storage surface isn't the only possible problem. That said, the readings help as long as the drive remains mechanically operable.

I use exclusively standby and only boot when required to complete an installation or other operation. I find that keeping the drive "warm" so to speak yields the best results for me. I am sure the drive's longevity is a little bit compromised, but I consider that part of owning a PC...I mean being prepared to replace parts. For this reason, I have been slowly collecting some good working/lightly used and new parts to use in case of a breakdown. This practice has eased alot of tensions I used to have about having to wait on parts. Having a power supply and a hard drive and some RAM around is a relief.

Back to the subject. Boots help when they are required. This could be for completing an installation, but I would also include the cases of freezes and/or crashes. However, experience has taught me that a neat orderly setup alleviates the need for boots and alleviates the freezes and crashes. Yes, the svchost thing becomes a problem from time to time, but you have addressed that I think the best way. It's almost always updates. Otherwise, it's just about achieving a balance with your computer usage. Get in a good rhythm and don't overload the computer (based on its specs) and then follow through on defragging and removing temporary internet files, etc.

Microsoft has given users a crazy amount of freedom to decide how to use a PC. Honesly, it's more than is healthy in my opinion. I mean in XP there is an option to format the C drive on the right click menu for the drive in My Computer. That's crazy. Windows is full of things like this. But then MS doesn't give you anywhere near the required tools to monitor what's going on inside the PC. You have to turn to 3rd party apps for that. That's fine and all, but for a very basic user, this is pretty much a ridiculous chore...having to sort through a dozen or more apps to be able to operate your PC efficiently. For now it's the price of operating a PC, but I am sure someone will come along eventually and do it better. I bring this up, because I think it can be difficult to know what to expect from a PC. MS with Windows just does not really help very much at all with this. It's easy to overload one.

Your new PC won't cause the crashes you've been having with your P4. That's partly because of Windows 7 but moreso because of the hardware. However, I don't think you'll need all these apps you have been using. Not that it's a bad thing to have them really, but, for example, on a new (used) PC I just got, I trimmed my XP installation that was 90 GB on another PC to 33 GB on this one. In the end, I think it's good you have the P4. You can take out all your curiosities on it and test programs and continue to learn the workings of a PC on it. Then you can use your new PC to really get things done quickly like surfing the net and so on. In this way, you can learn what to install on your new PC and eventually have the best of all worlds in your new PC...a clean efficient workhorse PC that gives you the power you require to accomplish and complete your work...

Waiting to hear more from you on the new PC. I guess you will have questions about Windows 7, but I would keep in mind that in many ways 7 is similar to XP. The file structure is somewhat different, but the features are much the same with some extra features added to them in many cases. Otherwise, a service is still a service and so on...

Actually I was thinking of just something fun like use your web cam if you have one and take some video of it and then add maybe a screen recording of how you have set things up on the PC software-wise.

Blog is a good idea :-D

 

Well, as I've said I have learned some things that have helped me avoid freezes, including figuring out that System Protect was causing problems on this system. But I'm afraid as long as this is my main computer I will suffer some from unpredictability. Applications have moments when they go wild on CPU usage. I hope that on my next system the processor will be so powerful that I won't even notice that. Also there are times when the system gets disturbed and settles into single-digit CPU usage, which slows it to what would be too generously termed a snail pace.

And there are times when I have to run two browsers. Maxthon is wonderfully fast. (On my system, Chrome, which everybody lauds for speed, is insufferably heavy and slow.) Maxthon is however temperamental. Sometimes it doesn't do downloads. I use a Gecko browser AlienForce, which will do downloads and has wonderful shopping add-ons that save me real money. AlienForce is however incapable of taking the default browser role, so some emails can't be opened in it.

So back to what I was saying, is there any point in making the power button cause Stand by or Hibernate, or will it merely postpone a violent ending of a frozen session?

 

Apologies cc. No. I wouldn't do that. Standby and Hibernate have issues of their own on P4 type systems especially. Having the power button set to turn off the PC seems like the best option for that. On a healthy "unchallenged" PC, I just use standby instead of shut down. Actually, I usually just get up and walk away from the PC when I am finished working, and it goes into standby after a few minutes...

cc, are you still getting the PC you were going to order, or has that been put on hold?

 

Oh, I've got the computer. It's still in the box.

Today my system was useless for the first hour after powering on, and when I finally got Task Manager up, I could see it was the usual suspect: svchost.exe. I checked Services, and Automatic Update had indeed been reset from Disabled to Manual and was started. Another dirty trick from Microsoft. Any ideas on how I can prevent that?

 

Hey cc...

I don't know of any specifically. There are probably some scripters (and you might actually be able to even find the script on the net) who have come up with a specific script that will turn off the Automatic Updates Service on boot. One moment, let me check...

There are scripts out there that will do this. Basically, you place the script in a notepad and select Save As and then name the script something like Disable Auto Updates Service and then place a .bat at the end of the name you have chosen. Then place the .bat file in your Startup folder in your main account (the normal administrator account you use). The file path for placing the file will be something like C:\Documents and Settings\{Main Account}\Start Menu\Programs\Startup.

Thing is you will need specific help with the script. I recommend joining:

http://stackoverflow.com/

and post on the forum there that you need a script to disable the Automatic Updates Service on boot in XP SP3. This is a great site, and I have gotten help here numerous times. Actually, I got some help with a script that makes sure the Process Lasso refresh check rate doesn't revert. I run the script as a scheduled task every 2 minutes to change the number to the desired number no matter what it is. Works like a charm...

 

Thanks for the suggestion. That's a very, very busy site. I put my question up and it got no answers, probably because it wasn't on page 1 long enough. http://stackoverflow.com/questions/...isable-automatic-updates-service-on-boot-in-w

Right now, page 1 goes back a total of three minutes! I don't know how you have been so successful getting help there. It looks like a game of chance.

I have added Task Manager to my Startup folder in hopes that I'll be able to avail myself of it much sooner after boot.