looking into more ram 8gb

so i got the hd 6570 gpu works great now im thinking of ram. as from what ive seen and know i foung a 8gb kit its got what my motherboard can use except it doesnt say if its non-ecc or not.

im looking at this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Wintec-MHzCL9-Channel-240-Pin-3VH13339U9-8GK/dp/B004UAAY3E/ref=dp_return_1?ie=UTF8&n=541966&s=pc

requires:
240-pin
ddr3
dimm
8500 or 10600 pc3

 

What is your make/model of motherboard?

Will you be gaming?

Let's have a look at your manufacturer's QVL, and go from there.

 

N-Alvorix-RS880-uATX (Alvorix) is the motherboard but this link gives what my pc whole specs are: http://h20000.www2.hp.com/bizsupport/TechSupport/Document.jsp?objectID=c02479701&prodSeriesId=4269976
only difference is that i have 400w power supply. im aiming at gaming but also streaming and some youtube videos.

 

If you are planning on gaming, I'd spend the extra $20 for something nice.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...k=False&VendorMark=&IsFeedbackTab=true&Page=2


If you're serious about gaming, I also see a motherboard upgrade sometime in your future... :cool

 

The QVL is the best source but you can also visit Crucial and run the Memory Advisor. It will scan your system, determine your motherboard/chipset and offer "guaranteed" compatible suggestions.

BUT I note you apparently upgraded your graphics. Understand the graphics solution is often the most power hungry device in our systems (often much more demanding than the CPU). If you did not upgrade your power supply with the new graphics card, you may already be pushing your current supply to its limits.

So before adding any more hardware, you need to ensure your PSU will meet the increased demands.

 

She also upgraded her PSU. The original was 250W.

 

im a dude thank you very much. but would that ram that im looking at work?

 

Sorry - missed that there is now a 400W supply in there.

 

Sure, it will work. Wintec is an OEM manufacturer and manufacturer of FileMate products. Means they make RAM for "off the shelf" PCs.

The modules will get the job done, but if you're looking for performance in gaming, this kit isn't it. No heat spreaders, and basic chips. The old saying goes: "You get what you pay for."

And, sorry about the gender "oops"...

 

yeah lol its fine but its a first also in games i notice my pc makes load fan noise would i need a higher supply?

 

Loud fan noise does not mean you need a bigger power supply. It typically means you have a heat issue, or the fan bearings are failing. You need to make sure interior is free of heat trapping dust and dirt.

If unsure about the size of your PSU, here is my short canned text on sizing a new PSU.

Use the eXtreme PSU Calculator Lite to determine your minimum and recommended power supply unit (PSU) requirements. Plan ahead and plug in all the hardware you think you might have in 2 or 3 years (extra drives, bigger or 2nd video card, more RAM, etc.). Be sure to read and heed the notes at the bottom of the calculator page. I recommend setting Capacitor Aging to 10% and setting both TDP and system load to 100%. These steps ensure the recommended supply has adequate head room for stress free (and perhaps quieter) operation, as well as future hardware demands. Setting Capacitor Aging to 30% will provide an even nicer amount of headroom. And remember, the computer’s components will only draw what they need, not what the PSU is capable of delivering. And the PSU will only draw from the wall what the computer demands, plus another 15 - 30% due to PSU inefficiencies. Buying way too big hurts only the budget. Make sure you buy a supply from a reputable maker and that it is 80 PLUS certified. I prefer Corsair and Antec PSUs. ​

 

ill look into the program but i usually have the side panel off but most likely heat i got a fan that can blow into the computer and see how it goes

Edit: i saw this before but i have no clue really but most of the stuff i dont even have

 

I have never been a fan of leaving the side panel off. The front of my tower is ported to cool the intake air. Also, the cover helps to cut down on audible fan noise.

When it comes to airflow, here are a few things to consider:

1. Wire management in the case so air may flow freely.
2. Positioning of the tower for maximum air intake through the front panel.
3. Clean, and clear intake/exhaust ports, heat sinks, PSU, and exhaust fans.
4. Elevate the tower above floor level to reduce uptake of dust, lint, and/or dander.
5. Fan properly sized to the rear exhaust port. If it's big enough, put the 120/140mm fan in it.

I think this will be my next upgrade, maybe by Christmas (18dBA):

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4306229&CatId=493

 

i couldnt use that anyways lol socket am3 but is there a program to watch ram/cpu/gpu?

 

Actually, it's designed for Socket 939, and 940. You could use it on an AM3+ socket. The AM3+ socket is supposed to be backward compatible with previous socket coolers.

I don't know about a single suite for monitoring, I have an Asus board and use AI Suite II.

 

"Leaving" the side panel off, I agree 100%. A good case is engineered and designed to create and facilitate a "flow" of cool air through the case. Leaving the side panel off can disrupt that flow.

But when testing for suspected heat problems, temporarily removing the side panel to blast a desk fan in there is a sound troubleshooting technique.

As for 3rd party CPU coolers, I am not a fan (no pun intended). For one, it is the case's responsibility to provide an adequate flow of cool air through the case. The CPU fan need only toss the CPU's heat in to that flow for extraction. If CPU temps are too high (assuming the CPU cooler is properly mounted and functioning properly), then increasing case cooling should be considered before replacing the CPU cooler.

Contrary to persistent rumors, both AMD and Intel supply excellent coolers with their CPUs, more than adequate at cooling the CPUs even with mild to moderate overclocking. They have to be as ONLY OEM coolers are warrantied to protect the CPUs. No aftermarket cooler warranty covers CPU replacement in the [admittedly rare] event a failed cooler takes out the CPU.

Also, while not a concern for many enthusiasts, it is important all readers understand that both Intel and AMD warranty their “retail” boxed versions of their CPUs that come with supplied heatsink fan assemblies as “a unit". That is, the 3-year warranty does not cover repairs if the "unit" is split and the CPU is used with an aftermarket cooling solution.

Note I am just the messenger ensuring users have all the necessary information needed to make the best, informed decision for their situation. Read the printed warranties that come with your CPUs - it's in there, or on-line here,

Intel CPU Warranty
AMD CPU Warranty​

AMD is quite clear:

"This Limited Warranty shall be null and void if the AMD microprocessor which is the subject of this Limited Warranty is used with any heatsink/fan other than the one provided herewith."​

 

thought it would of helped but im looking at this kit im not doing high end gaming just casual gaming but i do need faster ram im only running 667MHz with 4gb:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004DDI0IE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

 

That's a nice kit, and ten bucks cheaper than the Crucial RAM with the same latency. If you're not going to do heavy gaming, or RAM clocking it's a reliable kit worth the price.

 

got the ram ordered is there anything specific i have to do with the bios or anything to get the ram going or will it just work when i put it in? i havnet had luck before putting ram in to add before but i think it was just an issue cause of the different ram types/speeds

 

You need to review your motherboard manual. It will show you which slots to use to ensure dual-channel memory architecture is enabled. There is no standard. For example, with boards that have 4 RAM slots, some require you to put your first two sticks in slots 1 and 3, others require slots 1 and 2.

The BIG thing to remember is proper handling. Do not touch the electrical contacts of the RAM sticks. Make sure you unplug the computer from the wall. And then make sure you touch bare metal of the case interior to discharge any static in your body BEFORE touching the RAM or reaching inside your computer.

The RAM sticks only go in the slots one way. However, they can be forced in the wrong way, damaging the slot and maybe the RAM. So align the keys first.

 

Thanks I know not to touch the pins/bottom part but since this ram is twice the MHz what does that do?

 

Frequency is a measure of speed in cycles, but is not indicative of how fast the RAM is. Latency is also a factor in determining how fast RAM actually is. Timings in CAS latency are like golf, the lower the better. The chart in this article may help.


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAS_latency

 

so hows these timings 9-9-9-25 it comes up on CPU-ID. i believe its a little slow but i wana try messing with the timings if i can but bios doesnt have that option

 

got the ram today installed it works fine. windows score is still 7.3 plus CPUID still shows same timings and 667mhz ? thought this ram was 1333mhz?

 

It's because it's DDR SDRAM. DDR stands for "double data rate", so 667MHz will show up as 1333MHz. Being such increases the data throughput.

 

i also thought that the timings would be lower

 

A latency of 9 is not horrible. I know gamers who underclock their DDR3 just to get the same latency. Crucial has RAM modules which have a clock of 7, and their default is 9. You also need a BIOS which will lower the timings.

It will work just fine.

Heck, my RAM is 10-11-12-30, and running at 2150 MHz with the CPU slightly OC'd. It's about data throughput, not just latency.

Read that chart I posted the link for thoroughly, and check this out:

http://www.pcstats.com/articleview.cfm?articleID=873

 

i read it but yeah im going through my programs way faster than before. before i could only do one thing at a time. i installed MSI afterburner that helps alot to know my GPU stuff i need to know. 8gb is definitely better than 4gb i dont know what to do with the old ram i thought about adding it in but i know since theyre different id have problems but it would put me up to 12gb lol

 

It doesn't hurt to keep it on the shelf in case you need it one day. And as long as you do have it that guy Murphy and his law probably won't come around.

As soon as you let it go, well, irony is the spice of life...

:-D

 

I have a whole drawer full of old RAM. Plus a pile of old power supplies, cases, hard/CD/DVD drives, CRT and 4:3 LCD monitors.