Motherbord Issue

Hi ya,ll
i have installed ASUS P5N32 E sli Motherbord in my desktop.
right after start (after bios setup&installing OS ,XP PRO) i get this warning:
warning:H/W monitoring status Abnormal, please Enter setup ,check Voltage or Temperature.
when i open Bios & opening Hardware montoring ,these are what i read:
Vcore Voltage 4.16v
3.3 Votage 4.08v
5 Vottage 6.85
12 Voltage 16.32v
all second Voltage are in Red status
if i continue with above ,i get blue screen and restart,
if i change avbove Voltage Numbers to Egnor i can loadup windows and without crashing.
my gess is i have major problem with my power supply ( my power supply is ORION 500w)
i have one dvd drive ,one IDE hard drive and 1 SATA hard drive connected.
please let me know what should i do,
by the way i have no sound from my sound card(even after instaling Driver from CD and updatet??: my sound card is: Soundmax HD
Thanks in Advance

 

It sure sounds like you are right on the cusp of what your psu can handle. The 3.3v, 5v, and 12v you see are voltage rails. In addition to the wattage rating of your power supply, you have to be able to supply enough voltage on the rails to power your hardware.

That being the case, your computer still boots, but it will not be stable under any pressure, and running a psu at its threshold can cause other hardware to die! If you are running sli, you might try taking out a video card and seeing if that alleviates the problem until you can get a new psu.

This is not a bad tool to judge wattage, but keep in mind that it is an estimate, and may not be taking account of everything on your system either. Personally I'd add a good ~100W on top of what it gives you just for cushion, and consider that a minimum for what you need. Also consider 12V rating; if you've got enough 12V then you're most likely good elsewhere.

It is likely that your soundcard is not functioning because of your power problems.

 

Yeah, that's scary. I recommend you IMMEDIATELY STOP USING THAT PSU!!!! At least until you have verified the PSU is good. Following is my canned text on testing PSUs. Note the chart of "official" tolerance standards for voltages - you are way off and if true, risk damaging your motherboard, RAM, CPU, graphics card and anything else plugged into that PSU.

If you are overclocking, don't! At least until this is resolved.

If these warnings and readings are stopping you from booting, you need to reset your BIOS. Several methods are explained thoroughly in your motherboard manual. Just make sure you unplug from the wall, and touch bare metal of the case before reaching in.

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To properly and conclusively test a power supply unit (PSU), it must be tested under various realistic "loads" then analyzed for excessive ripple and other anomalies. This is done by a qualified technician using an oscilloscope or power analyzer - sophisticated (and expensive) electronic test equipment requiring special training to operate, and a basic knowledge of electronics theory to understand the results. Therefore, conclusively testing a power supply is done in properly equipped electronic repair facilities.

Fortunately, there are other options that are almost as good. I keep a FrozenCPU Ultimate PSU Tester in my tool bag when I am "in the field" and don't have a good spare power supply to swap in. While not a certain test, they are better than nothing. The advantage of this model is that it has an LCD readout of the voltage. With an actual voltage readout, you have a better chance of detecting a "failing" PSU, or one barely within specified ATX Form Factor Standard tolerances. Lesser models use LEDs to indicate the voltage is just within some "range". These are less informative, considerably cheaper, but still useful for detecting PSUs that have already "failed". Newegg has several testers to choose from. All these testers contain a "dummy load" to fool the PSU into thinking it is connected to a motherboard, and therefore allows the PSU to power on, if able, without being attached to a motherboard - great for testing fans, but again, it is not a true load or suitable for conclusive testing.

Swapping in a known good supply is a tried and trued method of troubleshooting, used for years even by pros. If you have access to a suitably sized, spare power supply, carefully remove the suspect supply and replace it with a known good one and see if the problem goes away.

I do not recommend using a multimeter to test power supplies. To do it properly, that is, under a realistic load, the voltages on all the pins must be measured while the PSU is attached to the motherboard and the computer powered on. This requires poking (with some considerable force) two hard and sharp, highly conductive meter probes into the main power connector, deep in the heart of the computer. One tiny slip can destroy the motherboard, and everything plugged into it. It is not worth the risk considering most multimeters, like plug-in testers, do not measure, or reveal any unwanted and potentially disruptive AC components to the DC voltages.

Note the required voltage tolerance ranges:

http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z181/Digerati_Bill/One-Time%20Upload/PSUTolerances.jpg​

And remember, anything that plugs into the wall can kill. Do not open the power supply's case unless you are a qualified electronics technician. There are NO user serviceable parts inside a power supply.
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Actually, I think it is a great too, but "estimate" is not really the right word. It is a "Recommended minimum. I have a canned text for that too where I explain one way how to compensate so you don't need to add the extra 100 watts, unless you just want to for good measure.

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Use the eXtreme PSU Calculator Lite to determine your minimum power supply unit (PSU) requirements. Plug in all the hardware you think you might have in 2 or 3 years (extra drives, bigger or 2nd video card, more RAM, etc.). Be sure to read and heed the notes at the bottom of the page. I recommend setting Capacitor Aging to 30%, and if you participate in distributive computing projects (e.g. BOINC or Folding@Home) or extreme 3D animated gaming, I recommend setting both TDP and system load to 100%. These steps ensure the supply has adequate head room for stress free (and perhaps quieter) operation, and future hardware demands. Research your video card and pay particular attention to the power supply requirements for your card listed on your video card maker's website. If not listed, check a comparable card (same graphics engine and RAM) from a different maker. The key specifications, in order of importance are:

1. Current (amperage or amps) on the +12V rail,
2. Efficiency,
3. Total wattage.

Don’t try to save a few dollars by getting a cheap supply! Digital electronics, including CPUs, RAM, and today's advanced graphics cards, need clean, stable power. A good, well chosen supply will provide years of service and upgrade wiggle room. Look for power supply brands listed under the "Good" column of PC Mechanic's PSU Reference List.

Most PSUs have an efficiency rating of around 70%. This means for every 100 watts of power a PSU draws from the wall, only 70 watts is delivered to the motherboard, with the rest wasted in the form of heat. The best supplies are 85 to 90% efficient, and as expected, cost more. I strongly recommend you pick a quality supply with an efficiency rating equal to or greater than 80%. Look for 80 Plus - EnergyStar Compliant labels.

Too big of a PSU hurts nothing but your budget. Your computer will draw from the PSU only what it needs, not what the PSU is capable of delivering. If a computer needs 300 watts it will draw 300 watts regardless if the PSU is a 350W, 650W, or 1000W PSU. In turn, the PSU, regardless its size will draw from the wall only what it needs to support the computer. In this example, 300 watts plus 45 – 90 watts, depending on PSU inefficiency.

As noted, the eXtreme Calculator determines the minimum requirements. If the calculator (with the changes I suggested) recommends a 400 watt minimum, a quality 400W supply will serve you just fine. But a quality 550W – 600W supply will have, among other things, larger heat sinks to dissipate potentially more heat. It might have a larger fan too. The 400W supply will run most of the time closer to capacity, while the larger supply will be loafing along, rarely breaking a sweat. To help the smaller heat sinks get rid of the wasted 80 watts (20% of 400) of heat, the fan in the 400W supply may need to run full speed, while the fan in the larger supply, with bigger sinks just loafs along too – but in near silence.

Don't forget to budget for a good UPS with AVR (automatic voltage regulation). Surge and spike protectors are inadequate.
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thanks for all wounderfull informations and guides, as you mentioned , i belived my PSU was bad , and i have ordered high qulity PSU and waiting to recive it . i will keep posted , what ever hapens , until then ,thanks a lot