New Ssd For Existing System - Help With Specs And Terminology

I must be nuts. Now I am thinking of doing it again....lol....

 

Changed boot order to HDD>CD>USB...restarted fine... all are on IDE

 

It's that or the dentist...

 

The computer is FAR more important than my teeth. (I pushed the drive time I needed too close anyway. Crazy/Panic driving isn't good for anyone).

So, back on post #41, drivers at DevMan were mentioned. Um, what's that? Device Manager?
I think Windows went out and got a bunch of drivers before the last restart after switching to ACHI
[Abbreviated: ATA Ch 4, Ch 5. ATAPI DVD...Hitachi ATA device, Standard serial controller, ATA Ch 0, 1, 3, 2, Hitachi ATA device, Intel SSDSAxxx ATA Device]

Funny I was on that "A?KVG" page earlier today to get uber-comfortable with the process before switching to ACHI. I set the "starts" at "0" for "msahci" and "pciide." Instructions earlier (here) said to "click one of the" registry keys. Online browsing made it apparent that they both needed to be changed, so I did.

In the "A?KVG" comments, I saw a "laStorV" mentioned, but that key is not anywhere in my registry.

So. What next?
I suppose I'll try to switch it back to ACHI in BIOS...while I wonder how to know if I have the right drivers.
Earlier, when I switched ICH SATA Control Mode to ACHI everything was fine.
I think I'll try that again, restart, THEN the GSATA6_7 and 8_9 switch to ACHI....maybe even try switching the eSATA Ctrl Mode, too, (whatever that is).

At least I feel like I can get back into Windows as long as I leave the USB ports empty.

 

Yes, DevMan is Device Manager (many such contractions are like that, common Windows Management tools etc., often named after the older DOS/Windows 8.3 exe names).

eSATA = external Sata, connector built in to the rear panel, somewhere near the RJ45 port.

Check the BIOS now, see if AHCI is being used, if it isn't and you're pretty sure Windows has made the driver switch, change them and give it another whirl.

You might find that if you stack USB devices at the lower end of the Boot priority order in the BIOS, that you'll have less chance of a Boot issue with USB drives connected.

Boot order - 0, 6, CD/DVD, USB... ? 6, CD/DVD, USB, 0 after the SSD changeover?

 

Interesting about stacking USB lower...thank you. I imagine that when the new SSD goes into SATA3_6, the BIOS is what points to having it start first.

Oh! UPDATE: Windows keeps starting over and over again, of course, that happens right after I click on "restart" each time. lol? Looks like all is well, ACHI remains set on all, even the eSATA which indeed has two pouts near the RJ45.

I plugged in the 5TB USB 3.0 drive and am making a final BU. I am tempted to run some bench-marking tool (the one was mentioned earlier) to see what kind of difference the IDE->ACHI switch made while still in its current state.

I have to trace another thread I had going with a giant mystery about "what is resetting my max usage slider to 100% in system restore?" The unasked for change was maxing-out my C drive and making the drive icon RED (leaving some 5 MB or something tiny as "extra" space. I saw some threads online about an Avast bug (which I don't use) resetting the slider to 50% when accessing the cloud. Thinking "what do I have that shakes hands with the cloud?" Nothing. My backup program tries to sell that service fairly heavily. So, I checked with trial and error testing. SOLVED: Acronis True Image 2016 is the culprit without a shadow of a (I mean to say ZERO) doubt. Well, there is always a chance it is something else...like user error or something. HERE is the Acronis Forum thread if interested.

After the BU I'll clone C: onto my "new" 1TB "S" drive.

Many thanks for holding my hand through this.

MG, again, ROCKS!

 

Good work, Doc, looks like you're getting the feel for what I've been trying to describe. Progress is fine, learning new stuff is a bonus, eh?

I don't know much about backups, rarely do any, maybe because I like to test myself occasionally and I have little to lose anyway. Cloud backups = saving your stuff on someone else's PC.

 

LOL - I can see the value of the cloud services, like, having a copy somewhere else, and some people are, well, how do I say "clueless" about technology. Ignorant is I suppose more polite. Hey, I am clueless about....um......I tried to think of something I am clueless about and, well, I know everything. OK, TACT...no...I m tactless deliberately. Ummmm.....I'll work on that.....

For decades I had no real backup. I do now and it is VERY comforting (even if BU will not repair a BIOS setting!) Still, rent the cloud, or own a drive. I'll take own a drive.

Onward....

 

You sound like you're getting along fine now, plenty of confidence coming over, just keep your wits about you and don't panic, you'll soon be relaxed enough to sit in that dentists chair again

 

"New" SSD accepted the clone. "Old" SSD disconnected. All is good. Windows sees it as Disc 0.

I wonder how much "testing" I need to do (and how to do that) before wiping the old SSD?

I also wonder where to connect the old SSD when it's time to use it as a scratch disc for Photoshop and perhaps a location for the Page File. Is it best to juggle connections to get it into the "GSATA2_0" position? Does it matter?

 

New Benchmark HERE.
Looks like I need to start a thread on how to tweak my GPU for maximum capability and minimum conflicts.
It USED to be a good card. (Running two displays). Maybe the card needs to be replaced.

 

Signature line changed

 

That's great, I'd just give it a few days/sessions of normal usage now to check for any anomalies.

It does look like your current SATA setup (possibly a chipset limitation and therefore 'normal'?) is in need of some tweaking, compared with my own Ivybridge benchmark. My Plextor 256 mSATA is on a SATA2 connection (chipset limitation), yet the stats are very similar to your EVO's.

Similarly, which makes me think it's your chipset, my 2.5" 5,400rpm HDD perform about s the same as, or better, than your 3.5" HDDs.

Your GPU, conversely, is performing very well at way above average compared to the other HD5750's tested, the best of which are very likely to be running at higher clock speeds than yours.

 

I was headed for the Win10 upgrade and got this:

"The display is not compatible with windows 10. check with the manufacturer"​

OK. Is it really the display, or the GPU?
That's my current search in case I have to go get a new GPU asap.
If you (or anyone) knows how to verify this, please advise.
I do photography, not gaming.

I have two displays. A good one and a gift one:

NEC MultiSync EA231WMi (the good one for photos - this MUST work)
LG Flatron W2040T (I could sacrifice this if I had to)​

Besides whatever video driver is on the MoBo (Gigabyte X58A-UD3R), I have this GPU installed:

AMD Radeon HD 5700 Series​

So...I am again in search of an answer.

TIA

 

PS - DevManager also shows "Mirage Driver" under Display Adapters. That is, I believe, associated with TeamViewer software that I use to remote to mom's computer from my home. Not sure if that looks like a "display" or not

 

Not sure on the mirage driver, not used TeamViewer for some time, never noticed that back then.

In the odd case where I've seen this particular error, simply changing the screen resolution(s) to something very generic worked. They can always be setup correctly later, I think it's a bug in detection during the pre- upgrade stage. Try something like 1280x1024 or 1600x900, depending on whether they're wide screens or not.

 

AMD has a "Crimson" driver that supports 7, 8, and 10...and replaces their "Catalyst" software, so I put it in. Still no love. Will try the screen rez like you mentioned. Thanks.

 

Disconnected second display. Tried both rez settings. no love
Decided to install ALL the updates, (and have already disabled the GWX Win10 blocker - at least I turned it off)

 

Ah, did you revert the GWX blocker settings before removing/disabling it?

Have you given that poor overworked rig a Shutdown/Restart cycle yet?

Are you thinking positive(ly enough)?

 

Clicked GWX to 'allow Win10 upgrades'...and reviewd all other Win10 'unfriendly' options...did not uninstall it. Will now.

Oh! And I have restarted so many times that I decided to remove my password for now.

Hmmm....I am The Eternal Optimist...maybe I'll be more positive...still think that I should be able to determine exactly what the hangup is....

Read somewhere NEC? AMD? that a second display may not be supported, so I made it go away before one of my many restarts. Maybe I should try shutdowns instead...(recalling the old days)

Tried the "get windows 10" link from the taskbar and it's downloading

 

That sounds like you might have a better chance next time around.

You could try this route to the upgrade, if you haven't already done so, ime it's less buggy than some of the other methods: https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/windows-10-upgrade

 

It downloaded. I noticed a warning "!" triangle over the taskbar icon. is currently 'preparing for installation' - film at eleven!

 

"SATA setup (possibly a chipset limitation and therefore 'normal'?) is in need of some tweaking...".... I wonder how that's done? I suppose we'll get to that later. There are all kinds of settings in the Bios that I am not familiar with so I don't touch them. Also, I am not overclocking. Meanwhile, back at the farm, Windows 10 has downloaded and is now 'configuring update' and is 100% complete...shutting down. Thrilling, eh? Going thru 'upgrading' cycles...

 

Woot! Looking good

Yes, we'll revisit the SATA setup/performance aspect later. I'm not overclocking here either, but I do like to spend some time getting the hardware to run at close to optimum efficiency.

 

My display looks like Win10 and says "Welcome Car"

 

I hope that was your prior User name....

Time to reset the monitor resolutions to normal, or did you already revert them before the 'successful' upgrade?

 

LOL - seems to be going well. It does think I am "Carl", not Car...

I added three accounts and 10 is syncing with Gmail. I wonder what all is going on with that? Entire mail stored locally? Headers only?

Finally (searched for) and found resolution and fixed that and did the Cleartype thing for both displays.

Will do precision calibration for displays later with my xrite dongle and software

Am interested in doing what YOU do...make things run as best they can without overclocking

Some things seem sluggish, although I bet that's because Windows is 'settling in' and invading my privacy.
You remember what that was, right? Privacy? LOL

LOTS to be thankful for. Firefox made it intact with SpeedDial FVD tiles and bookmarks.

Photoshop hit a glitch. Will have to make that works again.

Not tackling anything big today. Many thanks for your continued help.

DrCar

 

Good to see you've managed to retain your sense of humour, if not your usual privacy levels (MS stealing data from Gmail - stealing data from you/Cortana learning stuff about you, regardless of your own wishes). Efficiency Rule #1, kill all spying ASAP - which will change, perhaps drastically, with the upcoming Anniversary Upgrade to W10 - or is it side-grade/bait and switch?

Headers only will save space on your drive, download only the full emails from those you might need to refer to offline/regularly? (Don't clear them from the server if you might need to access them from another machine).

My exploits in tuning PCs is limited to my own experiences/hardware, things I can change and test/benchmark/feel. I know nothing of your chipset/'board so we'll need to collate some data to find out what's possible at stock and try to reach that level overall first, maybe see if Mimsy and others have some suggestions...