Screen Problems, I'm Going Crazy On This One.

So I got this gaming PC that used to work just fine until like 6 months ago when the screen suddenly went dead
on random inferences. Now here's the kicker.
Rebooting the system sometimes work and sometimes doesn't
which means that, after rebooting, I don't even get to see the system boot screen (before windows loads up).
The system does boot and I hear the windows startup sound and all.
reeboting servral times sometimes work and the computer loads back up with visuals (until the next time this happens).
I tried disconnecting some uneeded devices to see if one the them shorts the system in anyway but didn't that really worked , the boot apears random exept for the fact that it gets worse (I have to reboot more and more till I get a good boot with visual)
I tried replacing my video card, ended up with wasting money.
The new card didn't work on the older Mother, it needed a bios update which trashed my motherboard, so I got a new one as well.
The problem was gone for a few months but it came back, and getting worse.

My PC SPECS:
Operating System
Windows 7 Home Premium (x64) Service Pack 1 (build 7601)
Install Language: English (United States)
System Locale: English (United States)
Installed: 6/22/2017 6:51:56 AM
Boot Mode: Legacy BIOS in UEFI (Secure Boot not supported)
System Model
Enclosure Type: Desktop
Processor a
3.40 gigahertz Intel Core i7-3770
256 kilobyte primary memory cache
1024 kilobyte secondary memory cache
8192 kilobyte tertiary memory cache
64-bit ready
Multi-core (4 total)
Hyper-threaded (8 total)
Main Circuit Board b
Board: Intel Corporation DH67BL AAG10189-209
Serial Number: BTBL137002WL
Bus Clock: 100 megahertz
UEFI: Intel Corp. BLH6710H.86A.0160.2012.1204.1156 12/04/2012
Drives
1739.89 Gigabytes Usable Hard Drive Capacity
963.71 Gigabytes Hard Drive Free Space

ASUS DRW-24B5ST [Optical drive]

KINGSTON SV300S37A240G [Hard drive] (240.06 GB) -- drive 0, s/n 50026B775303A3CB, rev 583ABBF0, Not SMART
Seagate FreeAgent USB Device [Hard drive] (500.11 GB) -- drive 2, s/n 2GEWEZCS
WDC WD10EZEX-08M2NA0 [Hard drive] (1000.20 GB) -- drive 1, s/n WD-WCC3FPRKJTDX, rev 01.01A01, Not SMART
Memory Modules c,d
8162 Megabytes Usable Installed Memory

Slot 'DIMM3' is Empty
Slot 'DIMM1' has 4096 MB
Slot 'DIMM4' is Empty
Slot 'DIMM2' has 4096 MB
Local Drive Volumes
c: (NTFS on drive 0) * 239.58 GB 46.30 GB free
d: (NTFS on drive 1) 105 MB 67 MB free
e: (NTFS on drive 1) 423.38 GB 261.33 GB free
f: (NTFS on drive 1) 576.72 GB 478.53 GB free
h: (NTFS on drive 2) 500.11 GB 177.49 GB free
* Operating System is installed on c:
Network Drives
None detected
Users (mouse over user name for details)
local user accounts last logon
raveh 7/20/2017 8:50:24 PM (admin)
local system accounts
Administrator 11/21/2010 5:47:20 AM (admin)
Guest never
Marks a disabled account; Marks a locked account
Printers
Brother MFC-255CW Printer on IP_10.100.102.10
Brother PC-FAX v.2.1 on IP_10.100.102.10
Microsoft Shared Fax Driver on SHRFAX:
Microsoft XPS Document Writer on XPSPort:
Controllers
Intel(R) Desktop/Workstation/Server Express Chipset SATA AHCI Controller
Display
ASUS Radeon (TM) RX 460 Series [Display adapter]
@A^ SyncMaster [Monitor] (7.2"vis, July 2009)
Bus Adapters
Intel(R) 6 Series/C200 Series Chipset Family USB Enhanced Host Controller - 1C26
Intel(R) 6 Series/C200 Series Chipset Family USB Enhanced Host Controller - 1C2D
Renesas Electronics USB 3.0 Host Controller
Renesas Electronics USB 3.0 Root Hub
Multimedia
AMD High Definition Audio Device
HD-3000 - Microsoft LifeCam.
Realtek High Definition Audio
Virus Protection [Back to Top]
No details available
Group Policies
None detected
Communications
↑ Intel(R) 82579V Gigabit Network Connection
primary Auto IP Address: 10.100.102.2 / 24
Gateway: 10.100.102.1
Dhcp Server: 10.100.102.1
Physical Address: 38:60:77:4E:85:14
Connection Speed: 100 Mbps
Microsoft ISATAP Adapter
Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface

Networking Dns Server: 10.100.102.1
Other Devices
HID-compliant consumer control device
HID-compliant device (4x)
USB Input Device (3x)
Brother MFC-255CW LAN
Microsoft LifeCam HD-3000
HID Keyboard Device
Logitech Optical Gaming Mouse G400s
Generic USB Hub (3x)
USB Composite Device (3x)
USB Mass Storage Device
USB Root Hub (2x)
Generic volume shadow copy
USB Storage Use in past 30 Days (mouse over last used for details)[Back to Top]
Last Used
Seagate FreeAgent -- drive 2, s/n 2GEWEZCS, rev 0132 7/20/2017 8:50:22 PM
SanDisk Cruzer U, s/n 20054862330EBFE250CB, rev 1.27 7/19/2017 9:29:28 PM*
SanDisk Cruzer Blade, s/n 20044528711D5931E7A7, rev 1.26 7/1/2017 9:19:44 PM*
SanDisk Firebird, rev 1.06 6/23/2017 9:08:23 AM*
* Possibly used again before the reboot following this

 

Whenever you have such graphics problems, the first thing is to always try a different monitor to isolate the problem to the monitor, or to the computer. If you don't have a 2nd monitor, most TVs support computer input.

Since you have tried a new motherboard and a new graphics card, that does point to the monitor, but this could also be a PSU problem. So before buying more parts, I would swap in another PSU next. I am assuming the monitor cable is securely fastened (on both ends - if not hard wired) and not damaged.

 

The cable is securly wiered and I also tried replacing the wire.
I didn't try to switch screens because of the prosedure envolved but I guess that I have to try that next. I also thaught about the PSU just wondered if that might actually be it if the rest of the computer works just fine.
Thankyou

 

What procedure?

 

Yeah, not sure what procedure you mean - other than physically moving out one monitor to make room for the other. Remember, Windows does not communicate directly with monitors. Windows communicates with the graphics solution (card or integrated) and the graphics solution, in turn, communicates with the monitor. So you will not have to install any drivers. You may have to change resolutions, but that is easy too.

As for the PSU, the graphics solution is often the most power hungry devices in our computers. So while the rest of the computer is working, the rail the graphics solution is using may still cause problems. That said, I don't see how you can determine the rest of the computer is working fine if the monitor is not displaying anything. Hearing the Windows startup sound is not conclusive.

 

Hey there, been a while till I replied because I was trying and testing things.
The procedure I was mentioning is "getting a new screen to check", I don't have spare ones lying around. But I got one and placed it, the problem diminished for a while and then returned.
So, I went for the PSU. I replaced it to. Again, the problem diminished for a while and then returned.
And like always, it keeps getting worse - the screen goes black more often and it takes longer for it to come back to life.
I'm lost on this.
I tried reinstalling windows (knowing that it has nothing to do with).
I tried unplugging and plugging every cable on the back of the computer and in it.
I tried replacing the videocard (2 times), I replaced the motherboard.
I replaced the monitor and the PSU.
I tried disconnecting one of the 2 memory cards (and then switching them)
Nothing really worked.
Could it somehow be the CPU or something?
I'm freaking out.

 

In each of these events, when you say you replaced these components, do you mean with totally different video cards? A different motherboard? Different monitor and different PSU?

How are your temps? Did you scan for malware? Do fans spin properly? When you swapped motherboards, did you thoroughly clean the old TIM (thermal interface material) and properly apply a fresh new layer? Have you been taking the necessary ESD precautions to ensure no static discharges zap your CPU or other sensitive devices? This means to unplug the computer from the wall before swapping parts, and touching bare metal of the case interior BEFORE reaching in or touching components.

You might also check your facility power. Every home and every computer user should have access to a AC Outlet Tester to ensure your outlet is properly wired and grounded. I recommend one with a GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupt) indicator as it can be used to test bathroom and kitchen outlets too. These testers can be found for your type and voltage outlet, foreign or domestic, (like this one for the UK) at most home improvement stores, or even the electrical department at Wal-Mart. Use it to test all the outlets in the house and if a fault is shown, have it fixed by a qualified electrician.

 

Some good observations, and recommendations from Digerati.
Have you looked in event viewer? This would be one of the first things I would look at, as it can tell you so much about the faults happening to your pc.
Have you checked the pins to the base, where they connect to the motherboard (stand-offs)- ?

 

Thank you very much for the replies.
I replaced every part with a new/working(tested) used one.
this excludes the memmory cards, I just took one out and swapped them, the odds of having 2 faulty memory cards at the same time are low...
No malware, fans are working 100% all of them. contacts are clean in general, placed newtemperture paste wherevere it needs to be.
no ESD problem, no faulty haredware seen on the windows screen
No power problems, I actually moved to a new house 2 weeks ago, the problem has ofc moved with me.
base pins are fine also,
Didnt check the event viewer, but I know nothing will be there.
I did install teamviewer and logged in to my pc while the bug happend.
Everything worked fine from the remote computer. I also checked the device manager and everything was good there.

I will check the even viewer just to make sure, any other idea?
Could it somehow be the CPU?
Thats all that is left kinda isn't it?

 

The odds of them failing on their own at the same time are indeed low. But the odds of something taking them out at the same time are much higher. A failing power supply or motherboard voltage regulator, for examples, taking them both out the same time is quite possible. Or them being destroyed through mishandling is possible too.

Not sure what that means but understand used TIM must never be reused. So you must clean away all the old TIM before applying new.

Understand a static discharge from your finger tip to a high-density digital device like a CPU or memory module can torch a Grand Canyon sized trench (microscopically speaking) through such devices yet be so tiny of a spark that you (as a human) cannot see, hear or feel that a discharge even occurred.

So unless you ensured you always pulled the power cord from the wall (or flipped the power supply's master power switch to off (O) - if it has one), you always discharged yourself and put you and your computer case at the same "potential" every time, and you never touched the electrical contacts of your RAM, you would not know if you had an ESD problem or not.

What does not that mean?

Not likely. When a CPU fails, it fails. It does not sometimes work, then work other times (except when not properly cooled).

Can you boot into Safe Mode?

If you can get it running, try testing your RAM with MemTest86. Allow the diagnostics to run for several passes or even overnight. You should have no reported errors – not even one.

 

Hi my friend , as Digerati said you before , you must run memtest86 , one note : Memtest86 needs 8 passes ( about 8hours ) to check each stick of your ram

 

No it doesn't. Please note your own screen shot. That is for MemTest86+ not MemTest86 as I recommended. They are two different programs. Note the 86+ program is woefully out of date with the last update almost 4 years ago, well before the latest RAM (DDR4) and other features became common.

It is best to run any memory tester for "several" passes as I noted above. But the program I recommended does not "need" 8 passes. And note the amount of time it takes per pass is totally dependent on the size/amount of the RAM.

 

Yes you are right Digerati , sorry about that , memtest86 needs 7 passes i think

 

No it doesn't. Why are you just picking arbitrary numbers out of the air?

If the program needed 7 passes, the developers would have programmed it to run 7 passes by default. The default is 4 BTW but for a thorough test, the program needs a minimum of just 2 passes. The first pass runs through all tests but with a reduced number of iterations to quickly catch the obvious and most common problems. This provides for the quickest discovery of RAM with most common faults. As I noted above, even if only one error is found the RAM is bad and there is no need to continue testing, except maybe to isolate the problem to a single stick. If the 1 error occurs while testing just 1 stick, the RAM needs to be replaced.

The second and subsequent passes runs the full battery of iterations. This is why the first pass is typically much faster than subsequent passes. Errors are detected on the 2nd pass, there is no need to keep testing.

Note your screenshot talks about "test #7". Not 7 "passes". Each pass consists of 13 different tests using different testing algorithms.

 

Sorry Digerati , i am wrong , i was meaning about 7 tests not 7 passes , you are right

 

Okay, but again to make sure everyone is on the same page, each "pass" automatically consists of a battery of 13 different "tests". The user does not need to pick and choose which test, or how many to run. Just start the program and walk away (or go to bed). When you come back, hopefully at least 2 passes have completed and you want to see "0" errors found.

We're good. Thanks.

 

Note to self, recommend MemTest 86
http://www.majorgeeks.com/files/details/memtest86.html

and not the four year old Memtest 86+.

 

Hello there, to answer everyone, I can't load windows on safe mode because I can't see the boot screen, when the bug accures, I can't see any screen...
I did run some long memory test before, but not with you recommanded program, I will download and try it in the coming days,
Thanks everyone for trying to help, hopefully, will get this bugger