Some hardware advice for inexpensive SATA PS

Asking about cheap brands is pretty common but they change from time to time. What is the current 'best buy' on price for an ATX PS of 350-400 watt with a decent amount (4 minimum) of SATA connections?

I've adapted my old PS'es with those pigtails that change the molex to SATA. But these are really hit and miss. After installing them (and without a good test device) I've had dropouts using them. Since I have a new motherboard buy planned I should start with a fresh low draw power supply since I'll be using the same CPU I have now. The goal is just getting some SATA flexibility.

Diablotek is a familiar name on the low end. And I know that many on forums warn against cheap power supplies. However that is what I wish to get

 

For low end ATX (OEM replacement), I've had good luck with Logisys.

If you can live with three native SATA connectors and one pigtail (maybe on the DVD drive), this one is under $20 including shipping:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817170012

If you have to have 4 native SATA connectors, this one is a good brand and about $40.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371045

 

Thanks for answering. The $16.00 looks good.
Luck is important with PS'es. (wink.)

But 480 watts for this light duty setup (only a few hours a day) seems overkill. I used to get a brand called Hercules (not the vid board place I don't think) for low end and low power supplies. But the names seem to change by the year.

Maybe SATA equipped PS'es start at higher wattage? I don't know if there would be a reason for that.

 

It is a mistake to try and save a few pennies with a cheap power supply. Everything in your computer relies on good, clean stable power. When it comes to computer stability, there is no more important component than the PSU.

Would you buy a new car then use an off-brand, cheap, potentially watered down gas from the local Tobacco and Bait Shop? Well, you might but would you expect the car to operate as well as with quality gas? A car engine can miss a beat and keep going, but not so with digital electronics.

I recommend you get a quality 80 PLUS certified PSU from a reputable maker. I like Antecs and Corsairs.

"Low draw"??? :confused I think there is some confusion about how PSUs work, and how components "draw" power.

It is essential to understand if the computer components (motherboard, CPU, RAM, graphics, drives, fans) need 300W, they will pull 300W from the PSU, regardless if the PSU is a 450W PSU or a 1000W PSU.

And the PSU will draw from the wall 300W (plus another 45 - 90W due to PSU inefficiencies) - again, regardless if 450, 650, or 1000W PSU.

And it is essential to understand in electronics, power supplies naturally are inefficient, and they have a very non-linear efficiency ratings. This means they may be only 70% efficient with a 100w load, 85% at 250W, 65% at 350W. The waste is in the form of heat.

Typical, cheap, non 80+ certified PSUs have a "published" efficiency rating around 70%. This means for every 100W pulled from the wall 30W is wasted in the form of heat. And being non-linear supplies, that 70% is likely to be the "peak" efficiency at some specific load, and nothing near average across all expected loads.

80+ Certified PSUs are required to have a fairly flat (linear), and decent (~85%) efficiency rating at all "expected" loads. This is not easy to achieve without quality design, quality (tighter tolerances) parts, and quality assembly/soldering.

Do NOT be confused! It is critical to understand the number of hours (or minutes, even seconds) of use per day has absolutely nothing, zero, zilch, nada to do with the lightness or heaviness of the demands. The use-per-day is NOT a factor in selecting the size of a PSU - EVER!!!

I cannot emphasize that enough!

If you need a new PSU, get one that is 80+ Certified. If you know you will be building a new computer in the near future, calculate your PSU requirements for the new computer, then select a quality, 80+ Certified PSU from a reputable PSU maker that meets those needs, factoring in a sufficient overhead for future expansions and upgrades.

Going cheap on a PSU is the wrong place to go cheap. If the budget does not allow for a quality PSU, wait until you build up the budget to get a quality PSU. The extra cost initially will soon be recovered (and more in return) by lower electricity costs.

 

Logisys stretches the truth by listing "peak" wattage draw. If you compare the constant draw rating to higher end brands (Antec, Corsair, etc.), it's really only 330 watts.

Digerati does have a point on buying a PSU rated 80 PLUS. Assuming you run the PC 8 hours a day, the 80 PLUS PSU will cut your electric bill by about a dollar per month. Assuming you keep it 3-5 years, this will more than pay for the difference in initial cost.

 

Not just that. But an inefficient PSU pumps more heat into the room. If your computer needs 200 watts and you have a cheap PSU with a typical 70% efficiency, it would be pumping 85 plus watts of heat into the room (285 x .70 = 199.5W). If your facility/house is air conditioned, the AC must work that much harder. Yeah, perhaps we are just talking about pennies/day - but pennies add up.