Transaxle Leaking

But don't know where else to look. There are new lines going from the transaxle to the radiator. I dropped the transaxle pan to install a new filter and new pan gasket. That's bone dry now. The valve cover is also dry. The driver's side half shaft is dry. Passenger side looks oily, but changing to engine oil filter drains oil onto that shaft. Wiped it with a white rag and it's brown, not red.

Power steering pump is also leaking very slowly right at the pulley sheave. Shaft bearing/seal must be worn out.

Radiator is showing some dampness on the driver's side where the crossover tubes connect to the left side tank. But the recovery tank has only gone down slightly since I last refilled it back in October.

 

What vehicle is this? confused An awful lot of problems, if it is just one vehicle... Give some stats: year, make, model, etc...

Here, thsi might help: http://www.pedaltothemetal.com/index...ou_hit_it.html

 

1994 Chevrolet Cavalier - 2 dr
2.2L OHV 4
Automatic

I can't really complain too much as I only paid $275 to my sister for this car. It drives great, better on gas than my pickup. But ever 500 to 1,000 miles it's low on ATF. May seem odd, but when I had the TCC (torque converter clutch) solenoid unplugged and drove the car to work three weeks straight, it didn't lose as much oil. Maybe I have a leak in the oil passage for that clutch mechanism?

Will check out the link thou.

 

Sounds like you need a new car... You pretty much get what you pay for nowadays.... How long can you drive it, with the TCC disconnected? Hmmmm.. Time to go car shopping...

 

I did go car shopping, for a cheap front wheel drive car I can buy in cash to commute to work during the winter months. One that runs and drives good - but doesn't break the bank. Then I have my rear wheel drive pickup parked for the winter.

The guy at the garage said I can have the TCC permanetally unplugged, will only lose a couple mpg's. I have it plugged back in, but wired a switch inline so that if it should lock up, I can cut the power from inside the car to disengage the TCC. I prefer to cut the power to the TCC when I drive on icy roads anyways as that TCC switches in and out at speeds around 35 to 40 mph.

Car runs and drive great other than it has a slow leak. I had it in the garage today and the entire transaxle case is dry. Also checked the lines coming off of the transaxle going to the oil cooler mounted inside the radiator and they look fine. But I do see some dampness on the front side of the radiator on the driver's side where the cross-over tubes where they are brazed onto the driver's side tank. So it's leaking coolant (slowly) at the very same place the transaxle oil cooler (inside the radiator) is at.

 

I'll do that

Thanks Tim

 

Don't know if this will help but...

I had a '97 Taurus that had a major trans problem. It couldn't shift at all. I put Lucas Trans Fix in and it ran smooth for another 2 months. Also, when I replaced the Taurus for a '98 Dodge Grand Caravan that had 100,000 miles on it, I simply siphoned a quart of trans oil out and put in a quart of Lucas and 125,000 miles later --- with absolutely no service to the trans --- the trans had a clean bill of health!

Hope That Helps!

P.S.The Taurus needed a new trans --- I junked it for the Caravan. The Caravan's flywheel went bad, was able to trade it in for another beater, and the Caravan was given a "new" engine with 80,000 miles on it and the dealer sold it within a week.

 

Seems to be holding steady now. Checked the dipstick this afternoon and it is right at the top line. Maybe the air pockets have released, or something.