Why does my computer keep having power surges?

Hi, I'm new to this forum and I don't know if this is already a thread so I guess I'll just start a new one.

Recently I upgraded my computer's graphics card from an Nvidia GT 630 4GB to an Nvidia GTX 670 4GB, however whenever I try to play a 'taxing' game the ASUS surge protector kicks in and shuts down my computer. This even happened when i unplugged something from the extension cable.
Why would it be doing this, I checked and double checked that my PSU (I have a 750Watt) was okay and that the graphics card would be compatible so I have no idea why it would be doing this.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, Thanks.
This is a list of all my components, in case that helps at all.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/registry/wishlist/3U418Q9N6AEPW/ref=cm_wl_rlist_go_o_C-1

 

Your computer is not having power surges, your incoming power from the power company is the culprit. Could be as simple as a Loose Neutral of Hot leg going into the Meter pan, or Main panel, could be as simple as a "Backstabbed" outlet, that you have the computer plugged into.

Could also be as bad as wiring overheating, causing problems at the breaker or outlet, which in turn is just a fire waiting to happen. Suggest calling in an electrician, and the power company to look things over.

 

Another theory is the £23 750w Tesla power supply you've got is overloading and tripping out which in turn trips out the RCD in the surge protector

That's a really cheap power supply for a gaming system, it's about half the minimum price I'd recommend and I don't recall ever hearing of Tesla, it's definitely not Certified and I'm pretty sure it won't have a PFC which we usually recommend, cheap power supplies can also spark when you plug them in or disconnect them which can trip the RCD.

Doesn't explain why the surge protector trips out when you unplug other devices unless your unplugging power up devices, you should really plug them in and then turn them on with a switch. Mains switches are special high speed switches which minimise spark length. A pretty simple test would be to move the computer to a different part of the house far away from the socket your using and run a benchmark such as 3dmark or heaven benchmark see if the computer turns off, use a different psu cable and multi socket adapter also in case Browniz is right and you do have an electrical short somewhere in the circuit.

EDIT If you have access to another house you can completely eliminate the AC, which would also be safer if your worried about your mains.

Hi and welcome

 

Every home should have a AC Outlet Tester. I recommend one with a GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupt) indicator as it can be used to test bathroom and kitchen outlets too. These testers can be found for your type and voltage outlet at most home improvement stores, or even the electrical department at Walmart.

How do you know it was "okay". The only real and conclusive way to test a PSU is to swap in a known good PSU, or have yours professionally tested by a trained technician using a power analyzer or oscilloscope (sophisticated and expensive test equipment) with the PSU under a variety of realistic loads.

Fortunately, there is another option that is almost as good. I keep a PSU Tester in my tool bag in my truck. The advantage of this model is that it has an LCD readout of the voltage. With an actual voltage readout, you have a better chance of detecting a "failing" PSU, or one barely within the required tolerances as specified in the ATX Form Factor PSU Design Guide (see “Table 2. DC Output Voltage Regulation” on Page 13). But none of these testers (nor most multimeters) test for ripple and they only provide a small "dummy load", not a variety of "realistic" loads.

Finally, you said this started after you replaced your graphics card. You might swap your old card back in and see if the problem still exists.

 

Greetings, zeosinclair, and welcome to MajorGeeks.

I'll throw one more idea into the pot:

Is this a separate unit (aka an outlet strip)? If so, then this could be the weak link - 'surge suppressors' (especially cheapies) are notoriously unreliable.

 

Some ASUS motherboards have integrated surge protection (of sorts). I suspect that is what he talking about.

 

OK I've tried some of the things that people have suggested and I think I should get a better PSU so could anyone recommend one which would be suitable for my system? Links would be greatly appreciated, thanks

 

Here's my canned text on sizing and selecting a PSU:

Use the eXtreme PSU Calculator Lite to determine your minimum and recommended power supply unit (PSU) requirements. Plan ahead and plug in all the hardware you think you might have in 2 or 3 years (extra drives, bigger or 2nd video card, more RAM, etc.). Be sure to read and heed the notes at the bottom of the calculator page. I recommend setting Capacitor Aging to 10% and setting both TDP and system load to 100%. These steps ensure the recommended supply has adequate head room for stress free (and perhaps quieter) operation, as well as future hardware demands. Setting Capacitor Aging to 30% will provide an even nicer amount of headroom. And remember, the computer’s components will only draw what they need, not what the PSU is capable of delivering. And the PSU will only draw from the wall what the computer demands, plus another 15 - 30% due to PSU inefficiencies. Buying way too big hurts only the budget. Make sure you buy a supply from a reputable maker and that it is 80 PLUS certified. I prefer Corsair and Antec PSUs. ​